Question:

    Hi,     I also am having trouble with the transmision. It shifts HARD from PARK to REVERSE most of the time. A big CLUNK! After it warms up, it does better. Also, it has trouble going into OVERDRIVE sometimes. Especially when it is cold, but even when it warms up too, I have trouble. When going into the final gear (OVERDRIVE) it CLUNKS loud sometimes too. Crazy!!!! What does this mean? It the trans fixin’ to quit on me? I just had it serviced and they said there was hardly any metal shavins at the bottom. They also added an additive. This has not helped so far. Any body have any info that may can help me? Will 1992 Eddie Bauer 4×4 SE, Georgia

Response:

>    Hi, >    I also am having trouble with the transmision. It shifts HARD from >PARK to REVERSE most of the time. A big CLUNK! After it warms up, it >does better. Also, it has trouble going into OVERDRIVE sometimes. >Especially when it is cold, but even when it warms up too, I have >trouble. When going into the final gear (OVERDRIVE) it CLUNKS loud >sometimes too. Crazy!!!! What does this mean? It the trans fixin’ to >quit on me? I just had it serviced and they said there was hardly any >metal shavins at the bottom. They also added an additive. This has not >helped so far. Any body have any info that may can help me? >Will >1992 Eddie Bauer 4×4 >SE, Georgia

Will: Have the rear driveshaft serviced.  This is an often-ignored service. You need to grease the splines on the two-piece driveshaft.  A very light coating of a good EP grease should do it.  I use a CV-joint grease that has a higher film strength and is waterproof. There is a TSB on the companion flange at the rear of the transfer case.  Remove it while the driveshaft is out.  Inspect the splines carefully, and replace it wiyth a new one if at all worn.  Torque the nut to the new spec when you put it back in. Change the oil in the transfer case while you are under there.  It’s easy and quick. I recommend replacing the U-joints also.  The shaft is on the ground, so new joints are relatively simple to put in.  On my ‘92,  the joints seemed OK on inspection,  but were replaced anyway (about 113k.) Definitely an improvement, with a high-frequency vibration now gone. I was chasing the same symptoms you are when I started, and they have now gone away.  Doing the work myself on the garage floor cost me less tha $20 for the joints and about an hour and a half in time, working slowly.  A dealer or repair shop shouldn’t be too unreasonable on this. Good Luck! dr bob

Response: