I’m trying to help my brother put new plugs and wires in his 1992 Explorer XLT, and for the life of me I cant find the manual or any info on the net on how much to gap the new spark plugs. If anyone can help me with this it will be much appreciated

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On my 1993 truck, there is a white placard next to the hood latch (open the hood).  It lists the plug type and gap and also shows the routing for the serpentine belt.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to help my brother put new plugs and wires in his 1992 Explorer > XLT, and for the life of me I cant find the manual or any info on the net > on how much to gap the new spark plugs. If anyone can help me with this it > will be much appreciated

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> > I’m trying to help my brother put new plugs and wires in his 1992 Explorer > XLT, and for the life of me I cant find the manual or any info on the net > on how much to gap the new spark plugs. If anyone can help me with this it > will be much appreciated > On my 1993 truck, there is a white placard next to the hood latch (open the > hood).  It lists the plug type and gap and also shows the routing for the > serpentine belt.

I can’t remember the last time I bought a plug that wasn’t pre-gapped correctly.  The days when you were expected to set the gap differently from the gap the plug was designed for are gone for the most part. If all the plugs are gapped the same, you can be pretty sure they are already at the correct gap. YMMV.

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Well…. dont I feel like a complete idiot. Thank you very much. its right there when I opened the hood. Im going to go hang my head in shame and take of those plugs. Thanks again

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Don’t feel too bad.  I’ve had two Explorers for years and last week I spend half an hour trying to find the spark plug info in my Hayne’s manual.  Then I opened the hood. This is what happens when you use platinum plugs and it may be years before they get changed.

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I think it’s .050"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to help my brother put new plugs and wires in his 1992 Explorer > XLT, and for the life of me I cant find the manual or any info on the net > on how much to gap the new spark plugs. If anyone can help me with this it > will be much appreciated

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the gap is .060 And no, they do not come pre-gapped

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I need to fix or replace the fuel gauge float and was wondering if some could assist me by giving me a procedure for getting to it.

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>I need to fix or replace the fuel gauge float and was wondering if some >could assist me by giving me a procedure for getting to it.

Basically you have to drop the tank.  Run it as low as possible, drop it part way so you can disconnect the stuff on the top of it, then drop it the rest of the way.  Pull the pump out and replace it and the sending unit, Reinstall.  I don’t think there is any real trick to it. All the hardware is in plain sight that holds the tank in place.

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: I need to fix or replace the fuel gauge float and was wondering if some : could assist me by giving me a procedure for getting to it. : : In addition to what AZGuy has mentioned, take a look at the information provided at http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html (Scroll down to the section "Fuel Systems") Tank R&R is covered well in the "Fuel Pump & Sender Replacement – 1991 to 1994" Thanks to Dr. Bob, as his site gives a shade tree mechanic a boost of confidence! Rick

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I went through this on my ‘94. The pump was still functional, so I ran the tank down to near-empty, then disconnected the fuel filter & stuck a hose on the fuel line and into a 5-gallon container. I then pulled the fuel pump relay & jumpered the contacts to pump the tank empty. Caution – unless you are sure of the connections you can damage your computer doing this!!! You’ll need the plastic quick-disconnect tools (5/16 & 3/8) to undo the fuel filter & pump fuel lines. Plan on picking up a fuel pump lock ring & replacement fuel line clips from your dealer. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > : I need to fix or replace the fuel gauge float and was wondering if some > : could assist me by giving me a procedure for getting to it. > : > : > In addition to what AZGuy has mentioned, take a look at the information > provided at http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html (Scroll down to the > section "Fuel Systems") > Tank R&R is covered well in the "Fuel Pump & Sender Replacement – 1991 to > 1994" > Thanks to Dr. Bob, as his site gives a shade tree mechanic a boost of > confidence! > Rick

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It is an RF ground, used to reduce radiation of underhood electromagnetic emissions (ignition, etc.). It works both ways, in case you’re ever sitting next to Bubba and his 100 watt CB. Bubba has been known to completely shut down engines on Chrysler products when talking to ‘Gatorboy. Probably a good idea to replace yours, if it’s convenient.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What is the function of the strap that is attached on the t under the hood of  a > 1992 Explorer.  The weave looking strap  is located on the rear right side of > the hood  and attaches  to some grounding point in the engine compartment. It > looks like it is held in place with tiny metal clips. Mine is tearing and ready > to fall off and I was wondering how important it is.

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What is the function of the strap that is attached on the t under the hood of  a 1992 Explorer.  The weave looking strap  is located on the rear right side of the hood  and attaches  to some grounding point in the engine compartment.  It looks like it is held in place with tiny metal clips. Mine is tearing and ready to fall off and I was wondering how important it is.

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Used to cut down on RFI interference….. used to be to protect your listening pleasure from yourself. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What is the function of the strap that is attached on the t under the hood of  a > 1992 Explorer.  The weave looking strap  is located on the rear right side of > the hood  and attaches  to some grounding point in the engine compartment. It > looks like it is held in place with tiny metal clips. Mine is tearing and ready > to fall off and I was wondering how important it is.

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I am looking for any overhead console that will fit into my 1992 Explorer, any ideas where to look?  Any tips on hooking one up?  I can handle just about any mods needed. Thanks

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www.jcwhitney.com thats where i got mine

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Yep,  sounds like the same problem I’m experiencing and I need to head back to the Michelin dealer BTW, I put Toyo Open Country tires on my Explorer and have really had no problems.  They are quite, smooth, have good tread pattern for dry (very sticky), wet (no problems in rain), and snow (I ski and have not had traction problems at all).  I stayed with the stock 235 size, but next round I’m going up to 16×7 wheels and putting a bigger tire on to fill out that enormous wheel well. Michael

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey Michael > Cross rotating indicated the problem was in the tire and not the alignment > (something I knew all along). It can be the balance or a problem with the > belt orientation in the tire, I believe. I knew this because I had the same > problem with the original Firestone ATXs when I bought the vehicle. The > truck pulled despite the dealership’s insistence that the alignment was > fine. After I rotated the tires, the pull went away. Years later, when I > rotated back to the original positions, the pull was back. Moral: Never > assume the problem is the alignment. In fact, expect for the initial check > when I bought it, my 1992 Explorer has never been aligned, and the tire wear > patterns of the recently-replaced Firestones were fine. > Regards, > Tony Giorgianni > I bought Michelin Pilots for my wifes Altima and they ALSO pull to the > right.  AFter cross rotating as you did, the pull went away.  Hmmm. > What’s > up with that?  I haven’t been back to the dealer yet as they’re quite a > distance away. > Michael > > Hello All > > Just thought I’d post an update, which may be instructive. As I > indicated > in > > my earlier post, my new Michelin AT’s (1992 XLT – 59,000) are excellent > but > > for the > > right-hand pull while driving. > > As expected, the tire dealer wanted me to come in for an alignment. So I > > X-rotated the tires and, as I anticipated, the pull went away. I brought > the > > vehicle in and he rebalanced all four at no additional charge. I asked > them > > to rotate them to the original position (though I forgot to chalk them > to > > make sure he did). > > Of course, the installer did not honor my request to torque the lug > nuts – > > 100 ft lbs. (I caught him, so he stopped to get a torque stick.) I > checked > > to torque afterwards, and the lugs turned at between 60-80 ft lbs. So it > > goes to show you – check them yourself. > > Much happier with the Michelins over the Dunlop Rovers, which were way > too > > noisy. Sorry to say I don’t notice much of an improvement over the > original > > Firestone ATXs, however. About as noisy. The ride may be slightly > better, > > but it’s hard to tell. As I indicated earlier, they are fine in snow. > I’m > > running 26-28 lbs. > > Regards, > > Tony Giorgianni

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Hey Michael Cross rotating indicated the problem was in the tire and not the alignment (something I knew all along). It can be the balance or a problem with the belt orientation in the tire, I believe. I knew this because I had the same problem with the original Firestone ATXs when I bought the vehicle. The truck pulled despite the dealership’s insistence that the alignment was fine. After I rotated the tires, the pull went away. Years later, when I rotated back to the original positions, the pull was back. Moral: Never assume the problem is the alignment. In fact, expect for the initial check when I bought it, my 1992 Explorer has never been aligned, and the tire wear patterns of the recently-replaced Firestones were fine. Regards, Tony Giorgianni – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought Michelin Pilots for my wifes Altima and they ALSO pull to the > right.  AFter cross rotating as you did, the pull went away.  Hmmm. What’s > up with that?  I haven’t been back to the dealer yet as they’re quite a > distance away. > Michael > Hello All > Just thought I’d post an update, which may be instructive. As I indicated > in > my earlier post, my new Michelin AT’s (1992 XLT – 59,000) are excellent > but > for the > right-hand pull while driving. > As expected, the tire dealer wanted me to come in for an alignment. So I > X-rotated the tires and, as I anticipated, the pull went away. I brought > the > vehicle in and he rebalanced all four at no additional charge. I asked > them > to rotate them to the original position (though I forgot to chalk them to > make sure he did). > Of course, the installer did not honor my request to torque the lug nuts – > 100 ft lbs. (I caught him, so he stopped to get a torque stick.) I checked > to torque afterwards, and the lugs turned at between 60-80 ft lbs. So it > goes to show you – check them yourself. > Much happier with the Michelins over the Dunlop Rovers, which were way too > noisy. Sorry to say I don’t notice much of an improvement over the > original > Firestone ATXs, however. About as noisy. The ride may be slightly better, > but it’s hard to tell. As I indicated earlier, they are fine in snow. I’m > running 26-28 lbs. > Regards, > Tony Giorgianni

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I bought Michelin Pilots for my wifes Altima and they ALSO pull to the right.  AFter cross rotating as you did, the pull went away.  Hmmm.  What’s up with that?  I haven’t been back to the dealer yet as they’re quite a distance away. Michael

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello All > Just thought I’d post an update, which may be instructive. As I indicated in > my earlier post, my new Michelin AT’s (1992 XLT – 59,000) are excellent but > for the > right-hand pull while driving. > As expected, the tire dealer wanted me to come in for an alignment. So I > X-rotated the tires and, as I anticipated, the pull went away. I brought the > vehicle in and he rebalanced all four at no additional charge. I asked them > to rotate them to the original position (though I forgot to chalk them to > make sure he did). > Of course, the installer did not honor my request to torque the lug nuts – > 100 ft lbs. (I caught him, so he stopped to get a torque stick.) I checked > to torque afterwards, and the lugs turned at between 60-80 ft lbs. So it > goes to show you – check them yourself. > Much happier with the Michelins over the Dunlop Rovers, which were way too > noisy. Sorry to say I don’t notice much of an improvement over the original > Firestone ATXs, however. About as noisy. The ride may be slightly better, > but it’s hard to tell. As I indicated earlier, they are fine in snow. I’m > running 26-28 lbs. > Regards, > Tony Giorgianni

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Mike: Be sure to check out the info at the Explorer owners maint.site. www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html -Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Wondering if there is any ‘quick fix’ for the 4X4 electronic shift to my >’92, 4.0L Explorer.  Seemed to be working fine last year, but when I tried >to engage it recently, it didn’t engage.  Lights didn’t light and the tranny >didn’t seem to kick in.  I’ve checked all the fuses under the dash and the >hood.  I even pulled the 20A electronic shift fuse out and sandpapered the >contacts and tested it on an ohm-meter.  I don’t have a ‘fix-it’ manual so >I’m not sure what the next step should be.  The 5-speed manual transmission >is working fine and has about 150k on it.  Any help is appreciated. >Mike L

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A very common problem on the early Explorers is the electronic 4×4 engagement motor down at the transfer case gets slightly misaligned. The result is exactly what you’re expriencing. Loosen it up, put it back in place and retighten. The dealer did mine a couple times back in about ‘93 or so. Cleared it right up. At least it’s something to try before you go spending big $$$. Good luck. Dew

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Wondering if there is any ‘quick fix’ for the 4X4 electronic shift to my ‘92, 4.0L Explorer.  Seemed to be working fine last year, but when I tried to engage it recently, it didn’t engage.  Lights didn’t light and the tranny didn’t seem to kick in.  I’ve checked all the fuses under the dash and the hood.  I even pulled the 20A electronic shift fuse out and sandpapered the contacts and tested it on an ohm-meter.  I don’t have a ‘fix-it’ manual so I’m not sure what the next step should be.  The 5-speed manual transmission is working fine and has about 150k on it.  Any help is appreciated. Mike L

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The same thing happens to my 1992 Explorer too, but my problem is more intermitten.  When it fails to engage, I hear the rely clicking in the back of the vehicle (cargo area), so my problem may be a sticking rely? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Wondering if there is any ‘quick fix’ for the 4X4 electronic shift to my >’92, 4.0L Explorer.  Seemed to be working fine last year, but when I tried >to engage it recently, it didn’t engage.  Lights didn’t light and the tranny >didn’t seem to kick in.  I’ve checked all the fuses under the dash and the >hood.  I even pulled the 20A electronic shift fuse out and sandpapered the >contacts and tested it on an ohm-meter.  I don’t have a ‘fix-it’ manual so >I’m not sure what the next step should be.  The 5-speed manual transmission >is working fine and has about 150k on it.  Any help is appreciated. >Mike L

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>I’m only guessing but it would seem like it would be >$50 for parts

Ball joints cost app. $30 each. Allow doubling of the price for the shop mark-up gets you to $120 for two. The shop I used to work at figued an hour to $250. Mike

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>>I’m only guessing but it would seem like it would be >$50 for parts >Ball joints cost app. $30 each. Allow doubling of the price for the shop >mark-up gets you to $120 for two. The shop I used to work at figued an hour to >$250. >Mike

Does anyone know the offical (i.e. what is documented in the Ford Service Manual) labor time to replace the ball joints.  More than 1 shop quoted me approx. $100 for the ball joints and 3 hours labor.

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This gets better and better.  The honest abe mechanic I found is a relic, throwback to the 1940’s.  His shop is a mess, with not a hint of a modern tool. His alignment machine looks like it was designed in the 1950’s, but that does not mean shit to me because when I work in a NASCAR pit crew a few years ago, we aligned cars running at Daytona (190+mph) with strings!  The Relic jacked the car up (no lift is this place) and inspected the ball joints.  Told me to check them again in 50K miles (currently 100K on the exisiting joints).  Told me the tire dealer was just trying to rip me off.  Spent the next hour with him bullshitting about cars.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>I’m only guessing but it would seem like it would be >>>$50 for parts >>Ball joints cost app. $30 each. Allow doubling of the price for the shop >>mark-up gets you to $120 for two. The shop I used to work at figued an hour to >>$250. >>Mike >Does anyone know the offical (i.e. what is documented in the Ford Service >Manual) labor time to replace the ball joints.  More than 1 shop quoted >me approx. $100 for the ball joints and 3 hours labor. >Jeez, one local garage would not touch this job because he does not have the >fancy Ford tools to remove the ball joints,  another area Ford Dealer quoted me >7 hours labor, I laughed and hung up the phone, finally find a honest mechanic >who told me that any mechanic who could not do this job in 2 hours, ain’t worth >shit.  He is quoting me ~$100 for ball joints, 2 hours labor ($55/hour) + price >of an alignment ($40). >Lesson to be learned, shop around.

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>>>I’m only guessing but it would seem like it would be >>$50 for parts >Ball joints cost app. $30 each. Allow doubling of the price for the shop >mark-up gets you to $120 for two. The shop I used to work at figued an hour to >$250. >Mike >Does anyone know the offical (i.e. what is documented in the Ford Service >Manual) labor time to replace the ball joints.  More than 1 shop quoted >me approx. $100 for the ball joints and 3 hours labor.

Jeez, one local garage would not touch this job because he does not have the fancy Ford tools to remove the ball joints,  another area Ford Dealer quoted me 7 hours labor, I laughed and hung up the phone, finally find a honest mechanic who told me that any mechanic who could not do this job in 2 hours, ain’t worth shit.  He is quoting me ~$100 for ball joints, 2 hours labor ($55/hour) + price of an alignment ($40). Lesson to be learned, shop around.

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>Jeez, one local garage would not touch this job because he does not have the >fancy Ford tools to remove the ball joints,

If he doesn’t have a ball joint press, he doesn’t do too many ball joints. It’s *not* a special Ford tool, just a generic tool any front end shop needs. >He is quoting me ~$100 for ball joints, 2 hours labor ($55/hour) + price >of an alignment ($40).

Real reasonable. Mike

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>finally find a honest mechanic >who told me that any mechanic who could not do this job in 2 hours, ain’t >worth >shit.  He is quoting me ~$100 for ball joints, 2 hours labor ($55/hour) + >price >of an alignment ($40). >Lesson to be learned, shop around.

Ab: You might post this mechanics name and address so the people in the area might keep him in business. -Steve

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Order a crate job from Ford (Dealer?  Oh Lord.) or a performance crate from Ford Motorsports.  I hear the stock engines are $2395 new and the hopped up engines are $3495 for 345 horsepower. Otherwise try this part request site. www.autoandparts.com

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Where can I find a 5.0 to go in a 1992 Explorer.  I know where to find the adapters. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

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One possibility is that one or both of your front automatic hubs (if you have 4WD) are stuck in the engaged position, causing the front drivetrain to be rotating.  Just one thing to check.  - Have someone drive the truck slowly while you lay next to it on the ground and watch to see if the front drive shaft is rotating.  Just don’t get run over, please.  - Or wrap a piece of duct tape around the front drive shaft so that it flaps against the frame.  Then listen while your driving.  Don’t forget to take it off after the test… – Jason ‘96 Explorer Limited ‘94 Explorer XLT (yeah, I have two…)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1992 Explorer Sport 5 speed with 150k miles. It just > developed a strange roaring noise in the front end. It starts at about > 35mph. It is more noticable while coasting or in in neutral. The wheel > bearings all look ok. The tranny has sufficient oil. Any thoughts > would be apprecited.  Martin

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I have a 1992 Explorer Sport 5 speed with 150k miles. It just developed a strange roaring noise in the front end. It starts at about 35mph. It is more noticable while coasting or in in neutral. The wheel bearings all look ok. The tranny has sufficient oil. Any thoughts would be apprecited.  Martin

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Hi all- Does anyone know where I could start troubleshooting a non-functioning front windshield sprayer on a 1992 Explorer? Yes, the resevoir is full. Absolutely nothing seems to happen when I press in the spray ‘button’ on the wiper control. This started happening immediately after I had my entire brake/suspension system replaced (but I never was able to bring it to the guys who did it, unfortunately). Thanks for any help! Matt Kelly

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> Hi all- > Does anyone know where I could start troubleshooting a > non-functioning front > windshield sprayer on a 1992 Explorer? Yes, the resevoir is full. > Absolutely > nothing seems to happen when I press in the spray ‘button’ on the > wiper > control. This started happening immediately after I had my entire > brake/suspension system replaced (but I never was able to bring it > to the > guys who did it, unfortunately). > Thanks for any help! > Matt Kelly

The first thing I did when my Wife’s wouldn’t work on her ‘93 Mercury Sable was measure the voltage at the connector to the pump motor. The motor is about 3" long and 1 1/2" wide and is attached to the bottom of the washer resevoir. It has a two pin connector on it with wires coming off. That will tell you if it the pump or the switch (or possibly wiring). You might find the connector off before you even start, so that would make it easy. Anyways, since I was getting voltage, I knew that my switch was working. I pulled the reservoir out and hooked up a short piece of tubing directly to the pump and sprayed water about 15′. Well now that I knew the switch and the pump worked, the only thing left was a plug or leak in the tubing running to the jets. I blew out the tubing and cleaned the check valve and put it back together. It works fine now. Robert

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