Question:

I have a 1992 Explorer 2dr sport 4×4. 1. What is the best shock to put on it to take out a lot of the play in the steering wheel and to get a good ride. 2. What is the best tire to use for a good ride, but it also has to be good for beach riding since I go to live near the Outer Banks of NC I go on the beach quite often. 3.  Can I put a 265 tire on it without raising it?  I am looking at the Firestone Wilderness At  265/75/15 Any information will be appreciated Kevin

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>I have a 1992 Explorer 2dr sport 4×4. >1. What is the best shock to put on it to take out a lot of the play in the >steering wheel and to get a good ride.

Karen/Kevin: The shocks will never take play out of the steering wheel.  If you have steering wear that allows wheel play,  look at the tie rods and assocuiated linkage for worn parts. There are more opinions than there are brands of shocks available. Your ‘92 sport is subject to a front end shake at 55-70mph, commonlt caused by worn radius arm bushings.  In varying degrees that seem more consistent with luck than anything else,  you mayy also suffer from "aftershake".  This has to do with motor mounts, frame stiffness and body mounts, and some other yet-to-be-identified factors.  This manuifests itself as a little lateral hula in the back of the car following some disturbance in the front.  The disturbance may be a rut or pothole, or a tire out of balance. Once you get those mechanical things settled down,  You get to choose between ride quality and what some will call "control". <<snipped some that I don’t know the answer to…>> – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Any information will be appreciated >Kevin

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hmm, since the IAS shocks are supposed to have a valve that reacts to > "inertia" forces perhaps what’s happening is that the valve is holding > some residual internal pressure in the shock and as you come to a stop > and ALL movement ceases there is no longer any inertia and the > inertial valve then relaxes and lets the residual pressure "out" > resulting in 4 shock absorbers letting the vehicle settle slightly — > and perhaps the front shocks and rear shocks do it at slightly > different times giving the feeling of the vehicle rocking. > Can you tell any difference between the amount of rocking between > coming to a hard stop and coming to a very gentle stop?  If it’s as > theorized above I would expect a lot more rocking when you have a hard > stop and almost none when you make a very gentle stop. > Is it something you can live with and eventually get so used to that > you don’t notice anymore? > >Just to clarify a little bit on the ’shimmy’.&nbsp; It doesn’t dothis while >>the vehicle is in motion.&nbsp; It happens when the vehicleactually comes to >>rest.&nbsp; Once the vehicle actually -stops-, it tendsto ‘bounce’ front to

ummm … does anyone notice this rocking/bouncing on the stock suspension or is it just me?

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> > ummm … does anyone notice this rocking/bouncing on the stock > suspension or is it just me? > This is an excellant point. I only noticed this after installing the > Edelbrocks. The performance of these shocks was so much better that it > didn’t even register until I saw the first post about it. Could this be > a defect in the factory suspension, now noticed from a better shock? To > me it feels more like a "play" induced rock rather than a "spring" > induced rock, if that make any sense. > Steve

—  The ‘91-’94 Explorers, I’m convinced, are held together with Jello. You slam a door and the whole truck shakes, whats one to expect out on the road or during a hard stop? They have more cowl shake than a 65 Mustang convertable and as much body flex as I’ve ever seen in any other vehicle.  Take a bowl of Jello, side it across the table then stop it quickly with your hand. See the reaction(s) of the Jello? Think of this the next time your on the rumble strips, expansion joints, speed bumps or frost heaved roads. It will become quite apparent to you that they glued these trucks together with Jello rather than welding techniques.  Other than that, I love our Explorer. Especially since the Edelbrock/Michelin install. -Mike.

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  Lisa, you’d have to look to find the little bit of rocking. You couldn’t ignore the big improvement they make. Go for ‘em.                                           Patrick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > ummm … does anyone notice this rocking/bouncing on the stock > > suspension or is it just me? > This is an excellant point. I only noticed this after installing the > Edelbrocks. The performance of these shocks was so much better that it > didn’t even register until I saw the first post about it. Could this > be > a defect in the factory suspension, now noticed from a better shock? > To > me it feels more like a "play" induced rock rather than a "spring" > induced rock, if that make any sense. > Steve >For someone who has to go out and buy new shocks, would you still buy >the Edelbrock or go with the old Bilsteins.Thanks, have to choose soon. >Lisa

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 >Just to clarify a little bit on the ’shimmy’.&nbsp; It doesn’t dothis while >the vehicle is in motion.&nbsp; It happens when the vehicleactually comes to >rest.&nbsp; Once the vehicle actually -stops-, it tendsto ‘bounce’ front to >back briefly.&nbsp; Maybe bounce is a better termto describe it.(?)&nbsp; I >want to think it is the replacement bushingsthat were supplied with the >shocks allowing the vehicle to bounce or shimmy.It’s a rapid bounce, not one >like a soft or worn shock would do.&nbsp;Everything the shocks do while the >vehicle is in motion is a vast improvement. >Hope this helps! >…Ron

 Maybe you guys are on to something. I’ve got the Edelbrocks on my ‘98 Limited. I also get a quick back and forth motion just after a stop, sometimes. I’ve been asuming that it was a partially filled gas tank slopping around. But I don’t remember this before the shock change. I still lean towards the partially filled gas tank because of my previous comment about sometimes. JMTCW.   Patrick

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>  Maybe you guys are on to something. I’ve got the Edelbrocks on my ‘98 Limited. > I also get a quick back and forth motion just after a stop, sometimes. I’ve > been asuming that it was a partially filled gas tank slopping around. But I > don’t remember this before the shock change. I still lean towards the partially > filled gas tank because of my previous comment about sometimes. > JMTCW. >   Patrick

The only way I can prevent the ‘bouncing’ is to be really light on the brakes when the vehicle is just about to stop.  I don’t know about the fuel tank idea.  Mine will do it full, half, whenever.  It even will do it when I’m pulling the boat.  Actually, I’ve noticed that when pulling the boat, it seems to aggravate the problem … it seems to want to bounce a lot longer.  That keeps making me lean towards those front bushings. Some weekend, if I get curious/bored enough, I may back off on the nuts a turn or so and run it up and down the driveway and see if it makes a difference.  I’ve even gone as far as to wonder what might happen if I reinstalled the factory bushings … since I was able to salvage them during their ‘removal’. …Ron

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[snip] > Can you tell any difference between the amount of rocking between > coming to a hard stop and coming to a very gentle stop?  If it’s as > theorized above I would expect a lot more rocking when you have a hard > stop and almost none when you make a very gentle stop.

Yes I can, but it’s not enormous.  When I first noticed it (about 30 min after installing) I tried making different stops.  It does rock more on a hard stop, but it still not enough to really bother me; especially since you don’t stop like that overtime unless you just drive crazy.  If I make a =VERY= gentle stop, it will not rock at all.  I mean real gentle.  You can brake as hard as you want up to the point it’s about to actually stop, and then kinda feather it, and it won’t bounce.  That’s what I’m trying to train myself to do. > Is it something you can live with and eventually get so used to that > you don’t notice anymore?

Oh yea, I will be able to live with it.  It’s not -that- bad … it’s just noticeable … but I wouldn’t mind losing it if possible without a major hassle.  I don’t know if I’d ever get to the point I don’t notice it any more, I simply ignore it. …Ron

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I installed them last night, and they are ALL that Edelbrock says they are! The installation took less than two hours (with lift and air tools). Very easy on the 96 XLT. On the road results are GREAT!  The Explorer now has a luxury sports car feel.  Almost completely gone is the body sway, nose dives, top heavy feel,  under steer, and the bone shaking over minor bumps. Hopefully they will help with the tire wear. i.e. piece of (! Goodyears going out of round (vibrations at speed). I am taking a 1000 mile road trip starting today, and I will report to the group how the vehicle handles on the highway over extended trips. Thanx to all in the group who have made the recommendations for the IAS shocks! Tim Columbia, SC

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Tim, I am very interested in those shocks, but one of the messages posted here had scared me away from them. Look for the heading "Tire Wear Question & IAS Shocks" from Ron Hansen – dated 11/20/98 at 6:04am. He reports that his 95 Explorer has a "shimmy" problem now when slowing to a stop. Another person added a reply to Ron’s message and that reply was about a 1992 Explorer with the IAS shocks upgrade that is also now shimming while slowing to a stop. I have a 1994 XLT 4 door automatic. As with many people in this forum, I don’t like the way the truck rides and would gladly get those shocks if they do what you say as far as improving the ride. I would not like them at all if I started having a shimmy problem at all. I am curious as to whether or not you are having any adverse side effects – such as shimmy (steering wheel shakes a little) during braking. Also, what tires do you have on your truck? I know that can make a big difference also. Last, where can I get those shocks. Thanks for your input. Dennis     I installed them last night, and they are ALL that Edelbrock says they are!     The installation took less than two hours (with lift and air tools).  Very easy on the     96 XLT.     On the road results are GREAT!  The Explorer now has a luxury sports car feel.  Almost completely gone is the body sway, nose dives, top heavy feel,  under steer, and the bone shaking over minor bumps.     Hopefully they will help with the tire wear. i.e. piece of (! Goodyears going out of round (vibrations at speed).     I am taking a 1000 mile road trip starting today, and I will report to the group how the vehicle handles on the highway over extended trips.     Thanx to all in the group who have made the recommendations for the IAS shocks!     Tim     Columbia, SC

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> ummm … does anyone notice this rocking/bouncing on the stock > suspension or is it just me?

This is an excellant point. I only noticed this after installing the Edelbrocks. The performance of these shocks was so much better that it didn’t even register until I saw the first post about it. Could this be a defect in the factory suspension, now noticed from a better shock? To me it feels more like a "play" induced rock rather than a "spring" induced rock, if that make any sense. Steve

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ummm … does anyone notice this rocking/bouncing on the stock > suspension or is it just me? > This is an excellant point. I only noticed this after installing the > Edelbrocks. The performance of these shocks was so much better that it > didn’t even register until I saw the first post about it. Could this > be > a defect in the factory suspension, now noticed from a better shock? > To > me it feels more like a "play" induced rock rather than a "spring" > induced rock, if that make any sense. > Steve

For someone who has to go out and buy new shocks, would you still buy the Edelbrock or go with the old Bilsteins.Thanks, have to choose soon. Lisa

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The Edelbrocks take what FORD built and make better. But ALL car,suvs have some type of defect some were in the suspension due to cost cutting of  the design and trying to make it for on road and off road – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ummm … does anyone notice this rocking/bouncing on the stock > suspension or is it just me? > This is an excellant point. I only noticed this after installing the > Edelbrocks. The performance of these shocks was so much better that it > didn’t even register until I saw the first post about it. Could this be > a defect in the factory suspension, now noticed from a better shock? To > me it feels more like a "play" induced rock rather than a "spring" > induced rock, if that make any sense. > Steve

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Just saw these on the net and they look interesting. Is anybody using them? Are they worth the $80 each price?  Is there something better?  I do about 70% normal street driving. Thanks. — Brian Rhodes          |"The young tend to worry about dying well. Personally                       | I worry more about when; I expect to go out screaming                       | lack of dignity" – Neil Corona, THE LAST DANCER

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I put the Edelbrock shocks on my ‘98 XLT 4×4 after 500 miles of bouncing down the freeways here in LA. What a huge difference! There is far less body sway with much less "bounce". All this with an even smoother ride to boot. Add this to their lifetime guarantee, and you have a "can’t miss". Chris King PS I swear I don’t work for or have stock in Edelbrock.

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Question:

    Hi,     I also am having trouble with the transmision. It shifts HARD from PARK to REVERSE most of the time. A big CLUNK! After it warms up, it does better. Also, it has trouble going into OVERDRIVE sometimes. Especially when it is cold, but even when it warms up too, I have trouble. When going into the final gear (OVERDRIVE) it CLUNKS loud sometimes too. Crazy!!!! What does this mean? It the trans fixin’ to quit on me? I just had it serviced and they said there was hardly any metal shavins at the bottom. They also added an additive. This has not helped so far. Any body have any info that may can help me? Will 1992 Eddie Bauer 4×4 SE, Georgia

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>    Hi, >    I also am having trouble with the transmision. It shifts HARD from >PARK to REVERSE most of the time. A big CLUNK! After it warms up, it >does better. Also, it has trouble going into OVERDRIVE sometimes. >Especially when it is cold, but even when it warms up too, I have >trouble. When going into the final gear (OVERDRIVE) it CLUNKS loud >sometimes too. Crazy!!!! What does this mean? It the trans fixin’ to >quit on me? I just had it serviced and they said there was hardly any >metal shavins at the bottom. They also added an additive. This has not >helped so far. Any body have any info that may can help me? >Will >1992 Eddie Bauer 4×4 >SE, Georgia

Will: Have the rear driveshaft serviced.  This is an often-ignored service. You need to grease the splines on the two-piece driveshaft.  A very light coating of a good EP grease should do it.  I use a CV-joint grease that has a higher film strength and is waterproof. There is a TSB on the companion flange at the rear of the transfer case.  Remove it while the driveshaft is out.  Inspect the splines carefully, and replace it wiyth a new one if at all worn.  Torque the nut to the new spec when you put it back in. Change the oil in the transfer case while you are under there.  It’s easy and quick. I recommend replacing the U-joints also.  The shaft is on the ground, so new joints are relatively simple to put in.  On my ‘92,  the joints seemed OK on inspection,  but were replaced anyway (about 113k.) Definitely an improvement, with a high-frequency vibration now gone. I was chasing the same symptoms you are when I started, and they have now gone away.  Doing the work myself on the garage floor cost me less tha $20 for the joints and about an hour and a half in time, working slowly.  A dealer or repair shop shouldn’t be too unreasonable on this. Good Luck! dr bob

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Question:

Hello, One of the channels on my  factory radio (1992 Explorer, premium sound option) cuts out while playing a tape.  Usually a head cleaning gets it back to normal,. but only last for a new days before the problem reappears.  I use good quality SDK tapes. It is not consistent in what channel cuts out, sometimes it is the left other times the right.  Anyone else have this problem ?

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 It is not consistent in what channel cuts out, sometimes it is the >left other times the right.  Anyone else have this problem ?

Joe, I’ve got a ‘92 with exactly the same problem.  I’ve been trying to find time to pull it out and take it to a shop.  let me know if you find the cause. Sterling

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Question:

I have a few questions for the learned readers of this group. 1) Has anyone experienced massive number of freon leaks in the AC. I have five leaks in the connections and one at the compressor.  Cost to repair the connections is $125 (110 labor, 15 parts).  The compressor leak cannot be repaired, so replacement cost is $370 for a remanufactured one. 2a) This seems a rather large number of leaks.  Does Ford have a TSB on freon leaks? 2b) For a 1992 with an expired warranty, is Ford required to correct deficiencies noted in TSBs? Thanks, Responses via email would be appreciated. L. Dwayne Johnson

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Explorer has had the evaporator coil (under the dash) go bad on quite a few cars. Runs about $700.00 to replace. They don’t want to do a recall. it would cost to much. I am looking into a complaint to the EPA about it.

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Count me in too, bad evaporator and hoses at 68,000 miles, and another leak at 101,000 miles

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