ATF? You did grease them as well, right?  (or don’t Explorer hubs need grease?) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install).

Response:

Try backing up for more than a "few feet". On mine I had to back up for at least a few hundred feet before they’d disengage. Then, whenever I’d get stuck in deep snow, they wouldnt engage. And it was more like a "zzzzzzzzz" sound. like fast racheting…. Took it to the dealer and it needed new hubs and new U-joints. Don’t know if he was pulling my leg or not but he said warn U-joints will accelerate wear on the hubs. But both were replaced and it worked fine for the next 6 years, until I sold the car. dickm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not >have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left >side did not. >I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works >fine. >However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel >drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a >buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise >increases pitch with wheel speed. >I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? >I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). >When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs >are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. >Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to >manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a >tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. >Thanks for your help, >Chris

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not >have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left >side did not. >I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works >fine. >However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel >drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a >buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise >increases pitch with wheel speed. >I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? >I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). >When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs >are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. >Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to >manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a >tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. >Thanks for your help, >Chris

Chris, This exact same thing happened on my ‘93 full-size Bronco.  In addition to the buzzing, I would experience a clunking noise when coming to a stop.  What I found it to be was my 4WD motor was not allowing my 4WD system to completely disengage.  Eventually the 4WD motor stopped working alltogether.  At this point, I crawled under my truck and tapped on the 4WD motor with a small ballpeen hammer. Luckily for me, this brought it back to life and I haven’t had a problem since.   Give the tapping a shot.  Hopefully it will work for you as it did for me.  If it does, remember to use your 4WD from time to time to keep it in good working order. Hope this helps. NES

Response:

Hey everyone, When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left side did not. I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works fine. However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise increases pitch with wheel speed. I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites (completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. Thanks for your help, Chris

Response:

ATF? You did grease them as well, right?  (or don’t Explorer hubs need grease?) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install).

Response:

Try backing up for more than a "few feet". On mine I had to back up for at least a few hundred feet before they’d disengage. Then, whenever I’d get stuck in deep snow, they wouldnt engage. And it was more like a "zzzzzzzzz" sound. like fast racheting…. Took it to the dealer and it needed new hubs and new U-joints. Don’t know if he was pulling my leg or not but he said warn U-joints will accelerate wear on the hubs. But both were replaced and it worked fine for the next 6 years, until I sold the car. dickm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not >have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left >side did not. >I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works >fine. >However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel >drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a >buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise >increases pitch with wheel speed. >I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? >I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). >When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs >are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. >Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to >manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a >tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. >Thanks for your help, >Chris

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not >have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left >side did not. >I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works >fine. >However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel >drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a >buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise >increases pitch with wheel speed. >I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? >I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). >When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs >are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. >Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to >manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a >tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. >Thanks for your help, >Chris

Chris, This exact same thing happened on my ‘93 full-size Bronco.  In addition to the buzzing, I would experience a clunking noise when coming to a stop.  What I found it to be was my 4WD motor was not allowing my 4WD system to completely disengage.  Eventually the 4WD motor stopped working alltogether.  At this point, I crawled under my truck and tapped on the 4WD motor with a small ballpeen hammer. Luckily for me, this brought it back to life and I haven’t had a problem since.   Give the tapping a shot.  Hopefully it will work for you as it did for me.  If it does, remember to use your 4WD from time to time to keep it in good working order. Hope this helps. NES

Response:

Hey everyone, When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left side did not. I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works fine. However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise increases pitch with wheel speed. I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites (completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. Thanks for your help, Chris

Response:

im having a problem with cruise control i had to replace my battery and cruise didnt work until then after replacing battery it worked for about 400 miles then quit again can you tell me what the problem may be also when i put a tape in my deck it messes up my radio stations and my clock any suggestions would be

Response:

sounds like a bad fuse, or bad cable -Matt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >im having a problem with cruise control i had to replace my battery and cruise >didnt work until then after replacing battery it worked for about 400 miles >then quit again can you tell me what the problem may be also when i put a tape >in my deck it messes up my radio stations and my clock any suggestions would be

Response:

Ulysses or Happy Father please!  Glad Dad and I both experience similar problems!  I have solved the problem aesthetically, by unblocking a "hack job lectrick tape" plug in the extra port on the vaccum tree in or around the right valve cover.  My needle stood still until I temporarily re-blocked the small forward-facing port. It idles perfectly.  The large amount of air input makes me cautious about driving the vehicle until solved completely. 91 4Liter v6 4D PW PL PS AC CC 4WD  Thank you forwardly,   Jeff

Response:

My positive cable completely fell apart.  I also replaced the starter motor (had 260,000 miles on it).  You get to the starter motor by crawling underneath.  It has two bolts (one is a stud) and are removed with a 13mm wrench.  One small wire unplugs and the other big wire has a nut (also 13mm) holding it on.  It’s easier to remove the wires first then unscrew the motor. If your undercarriage is muddy I suggest hosing it off real good before removing the starter motor otherwise you’ll get dirt in your eyes. Why did you replace the alternator?  Because the voltage meter was jumping?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> my truck is having electrical problems. > i think i have tracked it down to the positive terminal that runs from the > battry.  this terminal has three leads, 2 are 4 guage one runs to the > solinoid and the other to the starter, the 12 guage wire runs from the > solinoid down to the starter. > one of the wires looks burnt. > the problme is when starting the truck it cranks once then has trouble > starting and once it does the the electrical guage on the dash bounces > around for a minute then returns to the nornal charging range.  i have had > the battery checked and replaced the alternator. > Has anyone else had this problem? > Also how do i get to the starter? > Im about to replace the terminal but if that doesnt do it i would like any > suggestions?

Response:

my truck is having electrical problems. i think i have tracked it down to the positive terminal that runs from the battry.  this terminal has three leads, 2 are 4 guage one runs to the solinoid and the other to the starter, the 12 guage wire runs from the solinoid down to the starter. one of the wires looks burnt. the problme is when starting the truck it cranks once then has trouble starting and once it does the the electrical guage on the dash bounces around for a minute then returns to the nornal charging range.  i have had the battery checked and replaced the alternator. Has anyone else had this problem? Also how do i get to the starter? Im about to replace the terminal but if that doesnt do it i would like any suggestions?

Response:

im having a problem with cruise control i had to replace my battery and cruise didnt work until then after replacing battery it worked for about 400 miles then quit again can you tell me what the problem may be also when i put a tape in my deck it messes up my radio stations and my clock any suggestions would be

Response:

sounds like a bad fuse, or bad cable -Matt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >im having a problem with cruise control i had to replace my battery and cruise >didnt work until then after replacing battery it worked for about 400 miles >then quit again can you tell me what the problem may be also when i put a tape >in my deck it messes up my radio stations and my clock any suggestions would be

Response:

Ulysses or Happy Father please!  Glad Dad and I both experience similar problems!  I have solved the problem aesthetically, by unblocking a "hack job lectrick tape" plug in the extra port on the vaccum tree in or around the right valve cover.  My needle stood still until I temporarily re-blocked the small forward-facing port. It idles perfectly.  The large amount of air input makes me cautious about driving the vehicle until solved completely. 91 4Liter v6 4D PW PL PS AC CC 4WD  Thank you forwardly,   Jeff

Response:

My positive cable completely fell apart.  I also replaced the starter motor (had 260,000 miles on it).  You get to the starter motor by crawling underneath.  It has two bolts (one is a stud) and are removed with a 13mm wrench.  One small wire unplugs and the other big wire has a nut (also 13mm) holding it on.  It’s easier to remove the wires first then unscrew the motor. If your undercarriage is muddy I suggest hosing it off real good before removing the starter motor otherwise you’ll get dirt in your eyes. Why did you replace the alternator?  Because the voltage meter was jumping?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> my truck is having electrical problems. > i think i have tracked it down to the positive terminal that runs from the > battry.  this terminal has three leads, 2 are 4 guage one runs to the > solinoid and the other to the starter, the 12 guage wire runs from the > solinoid down to the starter. > one of the wires looks burnt. > the problme is when starting the truck it cranks once then has trouble > starting and once it does the the electrical guage on the dash bounces > around for a minute then returns to the nornal charging range.  i have had > the battery checked and replaced the alternator. > Has anyone else had this problem? > Also how do i get to the starter? > Im about to replace the terminal but if that doesnt do it i would like any > suggestions?

Response:

my truck is having electrical problems. i think i have tracked it down to the positive terminal that runs from the battry.  this terminal has three leads, 2 are 4 guage one runs to the solinoid and the other to the starter, the 12 guage wire runs from the solinoid down to the starter. one of the wires looks burnt. the problme is when starting the truck it cranks once then has trouble starting and once it does the the electrical guage on the dash bounces around for a minute then returns to the nornal charging range.  i have had the battery checked and replaced the alternator. Has anyone else had this problem? Also how do i get to the starter? Im about to replace the terminal but if that doesnt do it i would like any suggestions?

Response:

Bought  a 1994 explorer at an acution. It has a am-fm-single disc cd player. The unit doesn’t seem to have power. Checked fuses, they looked good. Is there a code to enter, if so how do I obtain it. Thanks

Response:

if there’s a code only the dealer has it. you’d have to pull the deckout to get the serial #, in THAT case, just replace it with a new deck for $120 or so..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Bought  a 1994 explorer at an acution. It has a am-fm-single disc cd player. > The unit doesn’t seem to have power. Checked fuses, they looked good. Is > there a code to enter, if so how do I obtain it. Thanks

Response:

Bought  a 1994 explorer at an acution. It has a am-fm-single disc cd player. The unit doesn’t seem to have power. Checked fuses, they looked good. Is there a code to enter, if so how do I obtain it. Thanks

Response:

if there’s a code only the dealer has it. you’d have to pull the deckout to get the serial #, in THAT case, just replace it with a new deck for $120 or so..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Bought  a 1994 explorer at an acution. It has a am-fm-single disc cd player. > The unit doesn’t seem to have power. Checked fuses, they looked good. Is > there a code to enter, if so how do I obtain it. Thanks

Response:

Hello everyone, Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of the rims! I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be nice. Thanks for the advice. Chris

Response:

31×10.50s will fit nicely. SMC

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes > would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. > I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of > the rims! > I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be > nice. > Thanks for the advice. > Chris

Response:

I believe the rims for the limited in were only 15" x 6.5".

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes > would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. > I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of > the rims! > I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be > nice. > Thanks for the advice. > Chris

Response:

Hello everyone, Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of the rims! I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be nice. Thanks for the advice. Chris

Response:

31×10.50s will fit nicely. SMC

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes > would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. > I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of > the rims! > I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be > nice. > Thanks for the advice. > Chris

Response:

I believe the rims for the limited in were only 15" x 6.5".

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes > would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. > I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of > the rims! > I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be > nice. > Thanks for the advice. > Chris

Response:

4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

Just a thought – will it start if you push on the gas pedal?  If so, the idle air control valve is the problem. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, >when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it >won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard >that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional >opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the >truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of >definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

This problem was talked here previously. The solution is to change the fuel pump relay. When it get hot it won’t start. You can take a look in previous post in the forum about this issue. Hope this will work for you. Regards Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature. Then, > when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it > won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard > that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional > opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the > truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of > definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

> 4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, > when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it > won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard > that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional > opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the > truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of > definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Tough call without some diagnosis. With the radio off, turn the key "on" & listen for the fuel pump hum. It should run 2-3 seconds & shut off. You may want to try swapping the fuel pump & heater motor relays in the under hood relay box. Worst case is you have no heater fan…. Pull a plug wire & check for spark while someone turns the key to "start". No spark means you need to check further. One possible problem is a bad crankshaft position sensor that comes open when it heat soaks from a shut-down engine. Again, without diagnostics it a shot in the dark.

Response:

Thanks for the responses.  It was the relay switch!!!!! When I tapped the switch, the fuel pump would kick on.  Now that it’s replaced it works fine.  Thanks a lot!

Response:

4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

Just a thought – will it start if you push on the gas pedal?  If so, the idle air control valve is the problem. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, >when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it >won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard >that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional >opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the >truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of >definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

This problem was talked here previously. The solution is to change the fuel pump relay. When it get hot it won’t start. You can take a look in previous post in the forum about this issue. Hope this will work for you. Regards Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature. Then, > when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it > won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard > that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional > opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the > truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of > definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

> 4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, > when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it > won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard > that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional > opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the > truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of > definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Tough call without some diagnosis. With the radio off, turn the key "on" & listen for the fuel pump hum. It should run 2-3 seconds & shut off. You may want to try swapping the fuel pump & heater motor relays in the under hood relay box. Worst case is you have no heater fan…. Pull a plug wire & check for spark while someone turns the key to "start". No spark means you need to check further. One possible problem is a bad crankshaft position sensor that comes open when it heat soaks from a shut-down engine. Again, without diagnostics it a shot in the dark.

Response:

Thanks for the responses.  It was the relay switch!!!!! When I tapped the switch, the fuel pump would kick on.  Now that it’s replaced it works fine.  Thanks a lot!

Response: