Question:

I just came back from an Mobil station where they told me that they saw my manifold leaking coolant when they were changing my oil.  When put under pressure, there was a pretty substantial leak of coolant.  I didn’t see it because I had dropped the car off and went out of town. The Explorer was using a lot of oil.  Usually a quart every 500 to 600 miles.  No oil on the ground and no smoking.  Other than that, it was runing great.  At my last oil change, an Exxon mechanic told me to use 5W-30 and there was a small oil leak but it wasn’t big enough to explain the oil usage. So now my manifold gasket is being replaced.  They showed me the wear on the gasket.  But I’m worried this would have never happened if I hadn’t told them to tighten the manifold intake bolts.  I’m sick about spending $450 for this uneeded job. Can someone tell me if this repair sounds legitimate? Thanks for your help.   Fool in Houston!

Response:

Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I have changed several for coolant leaks. Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just came back from an Mobil station

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. > Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason > for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume > that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" > repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor > because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but > did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I > have changed several for coolant leaks. > Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" > until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth > did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. > Jim Warman > I just came back from an Mobil station

Jim, thanks for the information.  I appreciate it.  I have 135,000 miles on the Explorer.  As you can tell, I made several errors dealing with this situation.  However, your comments have made me feel better about having to spend $450. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Response:

No problem David….. mine let go about the 95,000 mile mark but wasn’t accompanied by any loss of coolant. Mine had developed a healthy thirst for oil and had fouled off #5 spark plug. What really works well for me is being able to take it into work and use my hoist and the air compressor <BSEG>. I’ll be in Calgary next week at the Days Inn if anyone wants to give my sh*t or have a brewski…. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. > Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason > for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume > that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" > repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor > because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but > did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I > have changed several for coolant leaks. > Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" > until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth > did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. > Jim Warman > > I just came back from an Mobil station > Jim, thanks for the information.  I appreciate it.  I have 135,000 > miles on the Explorer.  As you can tell, I made several errors dealing > with this situation.  However, your comments have made me feel better > about having to spend $450. > Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Response:

Question:

I just came back from an Mobil station where they told me that they saw my manifold leaking coolant when they were changing my oil.  When put under pressure, there was a pretty substantial leak of coolant.  I didn’t see it because I had dropped the car off and went out of town. The Explorer was using a lot of oil.  Usually a quart every 500 to 600 miles.  No oil on the ground and no smoking.  Other than that, it was runing great.  At my last oil change, an Exxon mechanic told me to use 5W-30 and there was a small oil leak but it wasn’t big enough to explain the oil usage. So now my manifold gasket is being replaced.  They showed me the wear on the gasket.  But I’m worried this would have never happened if I hadn’t told them to tighten the manifold intake bolts.  I’m sick about spending $450 for this uneeded job. Can someone tell me if this repair sounds legitimate? Thanks for your help.   Fool in Houston!

Response:

Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I have changed several for coolant leaks. Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just came back from an Mobil station

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. > Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason > for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume > that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" > repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor > because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but > did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I > have changed several for coolant leaks. > Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" > until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth > did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. > Jim Warman > I just came back from an Mobil station

Jim, thanks for the information.  I appreciate it.  I have 135,000 miles on the Explorer.  As you can tell, I made several errors dealing with this situation.  However, your comments have made me feel better about having to spend $450. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Response:

No problem David….. mine let go about the 95,000 mile mark but wasn’t accompanied by any loss of coolant. Mine had developed a healthy thirst for oil and had fouled off #5 spark plug. What really works well for me is being able to take it into work and use my hoist and the air compressor <BSEG>. I’ll be in Calgary next week at the Days Inn if anyone wants to give my sh*t or have a brewski…. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. > Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason > for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume > that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" > repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor > because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but > did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I > have changed several for coolant leaks. > Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" > until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth > did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. > Jim Warman > > I just came back from an Mobil station > Jim, thanks for the information.  I appreciate it.  I have 135,000 > miles on the Explorer.  As you can tell, I made several errors dealing > with this situation.  However, your comments have made me feel better > about having to spend $450. > Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Response:

Question:

Hi, I have decided to move to Los Angeles and buy a Mini Cooper S to have a more economical car. Therefore, I am selling everything I own, including my beloved 1994 Explorer Sport. Truck is in GREAT condition.  Only flaw is the steering wheel leather stuff has melted on the top, that’s all…… Power everything, Alarm, JVC Stereo / Changer, nice interior, tinted 130,000 Miles. I take EXTREMELY good care of my cars so this truck is almost perfect(except for the steering wheel). $3500 Tim D’Aquino

Response:

> Hi, > I have decided to move to Los Angeles and buy a Mini Cooper S to have > a more economical car.

A mini Cooper on an LA freeway?  Have you ever driven on an LA freeway? They are gonna eat you alive in that little car man.  I would be selling my Explorer and buying an Expedition if I were moving to LA.  Its a Gas versus Personal Safety issue.  Which is more important to YOU? SD been there.

Response:

>> Hi, > I have decided to move to Los Angeles and buy a Mini Cooper S to have > a more economical car. >A mini Cooper on an LA freeway?  Have you ever driven on an LA freeway? >They are gonna eat you alive in that little car man.  I would be selling my >Explorer and buying an Expedition if I were moving to LA.  Its a Gas versus >Personal Safety issue.  Which is more important to YOU?

I’ll be fine… But thanks for your concern. Now, anyone wanna buy my truck?  :) T – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->SD >been there.

Response:

Question:

Hi, I have decided to move to Los Angeles and buy a Mini Cooper S to have a more economical car. Therefore, I am selling everything I own, including my beloved 1994 Explorer Sport. Truck is in GREAT condition.  Only flaw is the steering wheel leather stuff has melted on the top, that’s all…… Power everything, Alarm, JVC Stereo / Changer, nice interior, tinted 130,000 Miles. I take EXTREMELY good care of my cars so this truck is almost perfect(except for the steering wheel). $3500 Tim D’Aquino

Response:

> Hi, > I have decided to move to Los Angeles and buy a Mini Cooper S to have > a more economical car.

A mini Cooper on an LA freeway?  Have you ever driven on an LA freeway? They are gonna eat you alive in that little car man.  I would be selling my Explorer and buying an Expedition if I were moving to LA.  Its a Gas versus Personal Safety issue.  Which is more important to YOU? SD been there.

Response:

>> Hi, > I have decided to move to Los Angeles and buy a Mini Cooper S to have > a more economical car. >A mini Cooper on an LA freeway?  Have you ever driven on an LA freeway? >They are gonna eat you alive in that little car man.  I would be selling my >Explorer and buying an Expedition if I were moving to LA.  Its a Gas versus >Personal Safety issue.  Which is more important to YOU?

I’ll be fine… But thanks for your concern. Now, anyone wanna buy my truck?  :) T – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->SD >been there.

Response:

Question:

Richard Grimes 99XLS    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me!    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? Richard

Response:

I took my broken arm rest, put some reinforcing tape and some wire mesh to reinforce the split plastic area, and epoxied it back together.  It’s worked great ever since.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

Response:

Or you can check the junk yards for a good unit.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

Response:

Richard Grimes Forgive the multiple post, it’s getting late.   I epoxied the plastic today and bought two metal strips to use as braces for the arm.   I’ll let you know how this turns out late Saturday or Monday.  That ought to let the epoxy cure a little. Richard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

Response:

PVC cement will literally *weld* the hard plastic sections back together. It’s the only type of cement that will actually "eat" into the plastic on both sides and then dry.  That’s why it works so well with pipes.

Response:

> Forgive the multiple post, it’s getting late.   I epoxied the plastic today > and bought two metal strips to use as braces for the arm.   I’ll let you > know how this turns out late Saturday or Monday.  That ought to let the > epoxy cure a little.

And to keep it from breaking again (or in the first place), put your owner’s manual under it for support. Dan 1994 Explorer

Response:

Richard VERY good idea! /richard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Forgive the multiple post, it’s getting late.   I epoxied the plastic > today > and bought two metal strips to use as braces for the arm.   I’ll let you > know how this turns out late Saturday or Monday.  That ought to let the > epoxy cure a little. > And to keep it from breaking again (or in the first place), put your owner’s > manual under it for support. > Dan > 1994 Explorer

Response:

Richard   I wish I had thought of that before the epoxy.  Oh well there is always next time! <grin>  My son and I will probably drill the braces after his friends leave tomorrow.  If it looks OK and works well I will do a final post on the results. Thanks/ Richard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> PVC cement will literally *weld* the hard plastic sections back together. > It’s the only type of cement that will actually "eat" into the plastic on > both sides and then dry.  That’s why it works so well with pipes.

Response:

Richard Grimes Final post on this thread.    My son and I finished the repair this morning. We had made a new tab to release the hinge lock yesterday and the epoxy worked fine. We cut two 1/8 x 3/4 x 11 inches long flat steel stock.  Drilled them for the first four holes and were done.  It doesn’t look bad at all, matter of fact it looks "factory" until the arm is raised.  It seems more sturdy than stock also, we shall see.   Except for the epoxy drying it was about an hour to finish.    Thanks for all of the posts. Richard Grimes

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

Response:

>   I wish I had thought of that before the epoxy.  Oh well there is always > next time! <grin>  My son and I will probably drill the braces after his > friends leave tomorrow.  If it looks OK and works well I will do a final > post on the results.

Hey, some epoxies work well, too.  But try PVC cement on a sample piece of any plastic you need to bond.  Chances are pretty good that a PVC cement bond is as strong or stronger than the material itself!

Response:

Question:

Richard Grimes 99XLS    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me!    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? Richard

Response:

I took my broken arm rest, put some reinforcing tape and some wire mesh to reinforce the split plastic area, and epoxied it back together.  It’s worked great ever since.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

Response:

Or you can check the junk yards for a good unit.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

Response:

Richard Grimes Forgive the multiple post, it’s getting late.   I epoxied the plastic today and bought two metal strips to use as braces for the arm.   I’ll let you know how this turns out late Saturday or Monday.  That ought to let the epoxy cure a little. Richard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

Response:

PVC cement will literally *weld* the hard plastic sections back together. It’s the only type of cement that will actually "eat" into the plastic on both sides and then dry.  That’s why it works so well with pipes.

Response:

> Forgive the multiple post, it’s getting late.   I epoxied the plastic today > and bought two metal strips to use as braces for the arm.   I’ll let you > know how this turns out late Saturday or Monday.  That ought to let the > epoxy cure a little.

And to keep it from breaking again (or in the first place), put your owner’s manual under it for support. Dan 1994 Explorer

Response:

Richard VERY good idea! /richard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Forgive the multiple post, it’s getting late.   I epoxied the plastic > today > and bought two metal strips to use as braces for the arm.   I’ll let you > know how this turns out late Saturday or Monday.  That ought to let the > epoxy cure a little. > And to keep it from breaking again (or in the first place), put your owner’s > manual under it for support. > Dan > 1994 Explorer

Response:

Richard   I wish I had thought of that before the epoxy.  Oh well there is always next time! <grin>  My son and I will probably drill the braces after his friends leave tomorrow.  If it looks OK and works well I will do a final post on the results. Thanks/ Richard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> PVC cement will literally *weld* the hard plastic sections back together. > It’s the only type of cement that will actually "eat" into the plastic on > both sides and then dry.  That’s why it works so well with pipes.

Response:

Richard Grimes Final post on this thread.    My son and I finished the repair this morning. We had made a new tab to release the hinge lock yesterday and the epoxy worked fine. We cut two 1/8 x 3/4 x 11 inches long flat steel stock.  Drilled them for the first four holes and were done.  It doesn’t look bad at all, matter of fact it looks "factory" until the arm is raised.  It seems more sturdy than stock also, we shall see.   Except for the epoxy drying it was about an hour to finish.    Thanks for all of the posts. Richard Grimes

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Richard Grimes > 99XLS >    Well I know it’s been posted before at one time.  But anyway, my arm rest > broke today so I removed it according to posted instructions.  The parts guy > at the local Ford store said that mine is a one piece unit ( bracket & > armrest) that sells for $170.69.  Thats a little much for me! >    Any way the plastic is broken in the arm rest.   I was thinking of > gluing/bracing the arm or replacing it aftermarket.   Any ideas? > Richard

Response:

>   I wish I had thought of that before the epoxy.  Oh well there is always > next time! <grin>  My son and I will probably drill the braces after his > friends leave tomorrow.  If it looks OK and works well I will do a final > post on the results.

Hey, some epoxies work well, too.  But try PVC cement on a sample piece of any plastic you need to bond.  Chances are pretty good that a PVC cement bond is as strong or stronger than the material itself!

Response:

Question:

Buy the mileage and condition, not the year. Many 1996’s are selling for much more and have twice the mileage. None can match the almost new condition of this ride! Pristine, One owner, Fully loaded, California, garage kept, 1994 4WD Explorer Sport 59,000 original miles 4.0L V6 4WD Auto 4-speed w/OD Electronic auto locking hubs White w/Black trim Running lamps Tan Leather 6-way power drivers seat Air lumbar and bolster AC – just serviced Cruise Control 4W ABS AM/FM/CD Upgraded speakers Keyless entry/Alarm Leather Tilt Wheel Factory tinted privacy glass Tow Package Transmission cooler Tow hitch Block Heater Moon roof Roof rack Factory Mats K&N air filter John Baker suspension Tokico Gas shocks Additional High performance exhaust system (new, not on truck) Air deflectors Alloy wheels Recent tune up Recent new belt/fan & fan clutch Recent sway arm bushings Recent new tires Recent new Battery Recent Smog New brakes F&R New Transmission at 22K miles Oil changed ~every 2000 miles Detailed every 6mo. All records Never wrecked Perfect body, paint, glass Cleanest you will ever see! $8800

Response:

SOLD $8K first look.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Buy the mileage and condition, not the year. Many 1996’s are selling for > much more > and have twice the mileage. None can match the almost new condition of this > ride! > Pristine, One owner, Fully loaded, California, garage kept, 1994 4WD > Explorer Sport > 59,000 original miles > 4.0L V6 4WD > Auto 4-speed w/OD > Electronic auto locking hubs > White w/Black trim > Running lamps > Tan Leather > 6-way power drivers seat > Air lumbar and bolster > AC – just serviced > Cruise Control > 4W ABS > AM/FM/CD > Upgraded speakers > Keyless entry/Alarm > Leather Tilt Wheel > Factory tinted privacy glass > Tow Package > Transmission cooler > Tow hitch > Block Heater > Moon roof > Roof rack > Factory Mats > K&N air filter > John Baker suspension > Tokico Gas shocks > Additional High performance exhaust system (new, not on truck) > Air deflectors > Alloy wheels > Recent tune up > Recent new belt/fan & fan clutch > Recent sway arm bushings > Recent new tires > Recent new Battery > Recent Smog > New brakes F&R > New Transmission at 22K miles > Oil changed ~every 2000 miles > Detailed every 6mo. > All records > Never wrecked > Perfect body, paint, glass > Cleanest you will ever see! > $8800

Response:

$8K first look.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Buy the mileage and condition, not the year. Many 1996’s are selling for > much more > and have twice the mileage. None can match the almost new condition of this > ride! > Pristine, One owner, Fully loaded, California, garage kept, 1994 4WD > Explorer Sport > 59,000 original miles > 4.0L V6 4WD > Auto 4-speed w/OD > Electronic auto locking hubs > White w/Black trim > Running lamps > Tan Leather > 6-way power drivers seat > Air lumbar and bolster > AC – just serviced > Cruise Control > 4W ABS > AM/FM/CD > Upgraded speakers > Keyless entry/Alarm > Leather Tilt Wheel > Factory tinted privacy glass > Tow Package > Transmission cooler > Tow hitch > Block Heater > Moon roof > Roof rack > Factory Mats > K&N air filter > John Baker suspension > Tokico Gas shocks > Additional High performance exhaust system (new, not on truck) > Air deflectors > Alloy wheels > Recent tune up > Recent new belt/fan & fan clutch > Recent sway arm bushings > Recent new tires > Recent new Battery > Recent Smog > New brakes F&R > New Transmission at 22K miles > Oil changed ~every 2000 miles > Detailed every 6mo. > All records > Never wrecked > Perfect body, paint, glass > Cleanest you will ever see! > $8800

Response:

Question:

Buy the mileage and condition, not the year. Many 1996’s are selling for much more and have twice the mileage. None can match the almost new condition of this ride! Pristine, One owner, Fully loaded, California, garage kept, 1994 4WD Explorer Sport 59,000 original miles 4.0L V6 4WD Auto 4-speed w/OD Electronic auto locking hubs White w/Black trim Running lamps Tan Leather 6-way power drivers seat Air lumbar and bolster AC – just serviced Cruise Control 4W ABS AM/FM/CD Upgraded speakers Keyless entry/Alarm Leather Tilt Wheel Factory tinted privacy glass Tow Package Transmission cooler Tow hitch Block Heater Moon roof Roof rack Factory Mats K&N air filter John Baker suspension Tokico Gas shocks Additional High performance exhaust system (new, not on truck) Air deflectors Alloy wheels Recent tune up Recent new belt/fan & fan clutch Recent sway arm bushings Recent new tires Recent new Battery Recent Smog New brakes F&R New Transmission at 22K miles Oil changed ~every 2000 miles Detailed every 6mo. All records Never wrecked Perfect body, paint, glass Cleanest you will ever see! $8800

Response:

SOLD $8K first look.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Buy the mileage and condition, not the year. Many 1996’s are selling for > much more > and have twice the mileage. None can match the almost new condition of this > ride! > Pristine, One owner, Fully loaded, California, garage kept, 1994 4WD > Explorer Sport > 59,000 original miles > 4.0L V6 4WD > Auto 4-speed w/OD > Electronic auto locking hubs > White w/Black trim > Running lamps > Tan Leather > 6-way power drivers seat > Air lumbar and bolster > AC – just serviced > Cruise Control > 4W ABS > AM/FM/CD > Upgraded speakers > Keyless entry/Alarm > Leather Tilt Wheel > Factory tinted privacy glass > Tow Package > Transmission cooler > Tow hitch > Block Heater > Moon roof > Roof rack > Factory Mats > K&N air filter > John Baker suspension > Tokico Gas shocks > Additional High performance exhaust system (new, not on truck) > Air deflectors > Alloy wheels > Recent tune up > Recent new belt/fan & fan clutch > Recent sway arm bushings > Recent new tires > Recent new Battery > Recent Smog > New brakes F&R > New Transmission at 22K miles > Oil changed ~every 2000 miles > Detailed every 6mo. > All records > Never wrecked > Perfect body, paint, glass > Cleanest you will ever see! > $8800

Response:

$8K first look.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Buy the mileage and condition, not the year. Many 1996’s are selling for > much more > and have twice the mileage. None can match the almost new condition of this > ride! > Pristine, One owner, Fully loaded, California, garage kept, 1994 4WD > Explorer Sport > 59,000 original miles > 4.0L V6 4WD > Auto 4-speed w/OD > Electronic auto locking hubs > White w/Black trim > Running lamps > Tan Leather > 6-way power drivers seat > Air lumbar and bolster > AC – just serviced > Cruise Control > 4W ABS > AM/FM/CD > Upgraded speakers > Keyless entry/Alarm > Leather Tilt Wheel > Factory tinted privacy glass > Tow Package > Transmission cooler > Tow hitch > Block Heater > Moon roof > Roof rack > Factory Mats > K&N air filter > John Baker suspension > Tokico Gas shocks > Additional High performance exhaust system (new, not on truck) > Air deflectors > Alloy wheels > Recent tune up > Recent new belt/fan & fan clutch > Recent sway arm bushings > Recent new tires > Recent new Battery > Recent Smog > New brakes F&R > New Transmission at 22K miles > Oil changed ~every 2000 miles > Detailed every 6mo. > All records > Never wrecked > Perfect body, paint, glass > Cleanest you will ever see! > $8800

Response:

Question:

Hi: – My truck keys got stolen recently and I do not have a spare set with me. Is there any way I can get a spare set made without having to deal with a locksmith? (FYI, I called a local locksmith  and they quoted me over $300 for (a) opening the door (b) making a main door key and (c) making an ignition key). – I DO have the original "dog tags" that came with the vehicle. Pls do advise. Thanks,

Response:

Check for replies to your previous post….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi: > – My truck keys got stolen recently and I do not have a spare set with > me. Is there any way I can get a spare set made without having to deal > with a locksmith? (FYI, I called a local locksmith  and they quoted me > over $300 for (a) opening the door (b) making a main door key and (c) > making an ignition key). > – I DO have the original "dog tags" that came with the vehicle. Pls do > advise. > Thanks,

Response:

Question:

Hi: – My truck keys got stolen recently and I do not have a spare set with me. Is there any way I can get a spare set made without having to deal with a locksmith? (FYI, I called a local locksmith  and they quoted me over $300 for (a) opening the door (b) making a main door key and (c) making an ignition key). – I DO have the original "dog tags" that came with the vehicle. Pls do advise. Thanks,

Response:

Check for replies to your previous post….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi: > – My truck keys got stolen recently and I do not have a spare set with > me. Is there any way I can get a spare set made without having to deal > with a locksmith? (FYI, I called a local locksmith  and they quoted me > over $300 for (a) opening the door (b) making a main door key and (c) > making an ignition key). > – I DO have the original "dog tags" that came with the vehicle. Pls do > advise. > Thanks,

Response: