Question:

Is there something electric that could cause my 4wd not to work? I press the button on the dash and nothing happens. No sounds of hubs, etc… Is there a fuse that I could check? 1994 Explorer — To reply, remove ".nospam" from left, and change ".not" to ".net"

Response:

There is a test lamp in the electronic 4×4 module in the back compartment just forward of the windshield washer reservoir. It’s best to get a shop manual to understand how to use it. You’re suppose to disconnect one of the harnesses first. My guess is that your problem will be a stuck transfer case shift motor. The symptom you describe is a classic indication of this very common ailment. See here for info: http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html Just banging on the shift motor may fix things. I took mind off and dropped it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it worked fine … and that was about three years ago. Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

> Is there something electric that could cause my 4wd not to work? I press the > button on the dash and nothing happens. No sounds of hubs, etc… Is there a > fuse that I could check? > 1994 Explorer > — > To reply, remove ".nospam" from left, and change ".not" to ".net"

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Response:

I have a ‘96 explorer sport, and I can’t seem to locate the electronic 4×4 module in the back compartment.  All I see there is a washer reservoir, a pack of relays, and a keyless entry receiver.  Can someone confirm the location ? Thanks – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >There is a test lamp in the electronic 4×4 module in the back compartment >just forward of the windshield washer reservoir. It’s best to get a shop >manual to understand how to use it. You’re suppose to disconnect one of the >harnesses first. >My guess is that your problem will be a stuck transfer case shift motor. The >symptom you describe is a classic indication of this very common ailment. >See here for info: >http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html >Just banging on the shift motor may fix things. I took mind off and dropped >it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm >for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). >Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it >worked fine … and that was about three years ago. >Regards, >Anthony Giorgianni > Is there something electric that could cause my 4wd not to work? I press >the > button on the dash and nothing happens. No sounds of hubs, etc… Is there >a > fuse that I could check? > 1994 Explorer > — > To reply, remove ".nospam" from left, and change ".not" to ".net" >— >Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

The 96 is a different 4-wheel-drive system than the 91-94 models. I don’t know if there is a module. In the 92, it is just forward of the rear reservoir, mounted sideways. Maybe someone else who know the newer models can help. Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘96 explorer sport, and I can’t seem to locate the electronic > 4×4 module in the back compartment.  All I see there is a washer > reservoir, a pack of relays, and a keyless entry receiver.  Can > someone confirm the location ? > Thanks >There is a test lamp in the electronic 4×4 module in the back compartment >just forward of the windshield washer reservoir. It’s best to get a shop >manual to understand how to use it. You’re suppose to disconnect one of the >harnesses first. >My guess is that your problem will be a stuck transfer case shift motor. The >symptom you describe is a classic indication of this very common ailment. >See here for info: >http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html >Just banging on the shift motor may fix things. I took mind off and dropped >it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm >for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). >Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it >worked fine … and that was about three years ago. >Regards, >Anthony Giorgianni

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Response:

>it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm >for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). >Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it >worked fine … and that was about three years ago.

  About three years and one wife, I’m guessing?  LOL

Response:

Wife? No way, no how! ) Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

>it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm >for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). >Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it >worked fine … and that was about three years ago. >   About three years and one wife, I’m guessing?  LOL

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Response:

>Wife? No way, no how!

  That explains it – only a single guy could get away with putting this in the oven!

Response:

My point exactly! Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

>Wife? No way, no how! >   That explains it – only a single guy could get away with putting > this in the oven!

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Question:

Is there something electric that could cause my 4wd not to work? I press the button on the dash and nothing happens. No sounds of hubs, etc… Is there a fuse that I could check? 1994 Explorer — To reply, remove ".nospam" from left, and change ".not" to ".net"

Response:

There is a test lamp in the electronic 4×4 module in the back compartment just forward of the windshield washer reservoir. It’s best to get a shop manual to understand how to use it. You’re suppose to disconnect one of the harnesses first. My guess is that your problem will be a stuck transfer case shift motor. The symptom you describe is a classic indication of this very common ailment. See here for info: http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html Just banging on the shift motor may fix things. I took mind off and dropped it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it worked fine … and that was about three years ago. Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

> Is there something electric that could cause my 4wd not to work? I press the > button on the dash and nothing happens. No sounds of hubs, etc… Is there a > fuse that I could check? > 1994 Explorer > — > To reply, remove ".nospam" from left, and change ".not" to ".net"

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

I have a ‘96 explorer sport, and I can’t seem to locate the electronic 4×4 module in the back compartment.  All I see there is a washer reservoir, a pack of relays, and a keyless entry receiver.  Can someone confirm the location ? Thanks – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >There is a test lamp in the electronic 4×4 module in the back compartment >just forward of the windshield washer reservoir. It’s best to get a shop >manual to understand how to use it. You’re suppose to disconnect one of the >harnesses first. >My guess is that your problem will be a stuck transfer case shift motor. The >symptom you describe is a classic indication of this very common ailment. >See here for info: >http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html >Just banging on the shift motor may fix things. I took mind off and dropped >it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm >for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). >Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it >worked fine … and that was about three years ago. >Regards, >Anthony Giorgianni > Is there something electric that could cause my 4wd not to work? I press >the > button on the dash and nothing happens. No sounds of hubs, etc… Is there >a > fuse that I could check? > 1994 Explorer > — > To reply, remove ".nospam" from left, and change ".not" to ".net" >— >Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

The 96 is a different 4-wheel-drive system than the 91-94 models. I don’t know if there is a module. In the 92, it is just forward of the rear reservoir, mounted sideways. Maybe someone else who know the newer models can help. Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘96 explorer sport, and I can’t seem to locate the electronic > 4×4 module in the back compartment.  All I see there is a washer > reservoir, a pack of relays, and a keyless entry receiver.  Can > someone confirm the location ? > Thanks >There is a test lamp in the electronic 4×4 module in the back compartment >just forward of the windshield washer reservoir. It’s best to get a shop >manual to understand how to use it. You’re suppose to disconnect one of the >harnesses first. >My guess is that your problem will be a stuck transfer case shift motor. The >symptom you describe is a classic indication of this very common ailment. >See here for info: >http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html >Just banging on the shift motor may fix things. I took mind off and dropped >it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm >for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). >Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it >worked fine … and that was about three years ago. >Regards, >Anthony Giorgianni

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Response:

>it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm >for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). >Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it >worked fine … and that was about three years ago.

  About three years and one wife, I’m guessing?  LOL

Response:

Wife? No way, no how! ) Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

>it on the pavement (by mistake). I also put it in the oven on slightly warm >for about a half hour or so to try to remove any moisture (it was winter). >Lots of steam came out when I open the oven door. When I put it back in, it >worked fine … and that was about three years ago. >   About three years and one wife, I’m guessing?  LOL

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

>Wife? No way, no how!

  That explains it – only a single guy could get away with putting this in the oven!

Response:

My point exactly! Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

>Wife? No way, no how! >   That explains it – only a single guy could get away with putting > this in the oven!

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Question:

I figured out this problem pretty quick: it started out that the blower would not come back on after the Explorer had sat for less than a few hours, until I hit a bump or something.  I could fix it by whapping the relay with my finger. — mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey Mike W., > thanks so much for the tip! > Yesterday here in WV it was 93 degrees and the blower stopped for a while > and of course the A/C was out then and I was desperate to get it fixed. > My wife said it was a shame to have paid $91.00 and still not have solved > the problem. I can’t argue with that. > How long did you have this problem before you got it solved, Mike? > I can look back now and say that when my mechanic said that the blower motor > bearings were tight that I should have waited for the blower to act up again > and then trouble shoot for the problem. > He was thinking that the bearings get loose and the with the brushes wearing > down that it could display the kind of symptoms I was having. > Well I can now know that the blower is not going to give me any problems, it > will be something else…<Grin> > — > Bill V. > WV > USA > Cool.  My 94 had the exact same problem recently, the problem WAS the > blower > motor relay, in the relay/fuse box on the RH fender, there are 6 or so, > all > identical relays, switch it with the AC WOT relay to verify that it solves > it. > — > mike > > Hello, > > I have a 1994 Explorer Eddie B. > > It has 118,200 miles. > > I have had a problem with the blower simply stopping sometimes and then > > coming back on later on it’s own. > > It sometimes can not run when  first started then later start running. > > So I took it to the local mechanic and he said it was probably the > brushes > > on the fan motor, and that it was a sealed unit. So it would have to be > > replaced. > > Well when I took it out to him the blower was working OK and he could > not > > get it to stop, but I told him to go ahead and replace it anyway. > > Guess what , that wasn’t the problem or at least all of the problem > because > > today it started doing the same thing!! > > Does anyone have any ideas about this? > > He said he checked the switches and they were OK. > > Is there a relay that might have bad contacts? > > Any help would be appreciated. > > regards, > > — > > Bill V. > > WV > > USA

Response:

Cool.  My 94 had the exact same problem recently, the problem WAS the blower motor relay, in the relay/fuse box on the RH fender, there are 6 or so, all identical relays, switch it with the AC WOT relay to verify that it solves it. — mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I have a 1994 Explorer Eddie B. > It has 118,200 miles. > I have had a problem with the blower simply stopping sometimes and then > coming back on later on it’s own. > It sometimes can not run when  first started then later start running. > So I took it to the local mechanic and he said it was probably the brushes > on the fan motor, and that it was a sealed unit. So it would have to be > replaced. > Well when I took it out to him the blower was working OK and he could not > get it to stop, but I told him to go ahead and replace it anyway. > Guess what , that wasn’t the problem or at least all of the problem because > today it started doing the same thing!! > Does anyone have any ideas about this? > He said he checked the switches and they were OK. > Is there a relay that might have bad contacts? > Any help would be appreciated. > regards, > — > Bill V. > WV > USA

Response:

Hey Mike W., thanks so much for the tip! Yesterday here in WV it was 93 degrees and the blower stopped for a while and of course the A/C was out then and I was desperate to get it fixed. My wife said it was a shame to have paid $91.00 and still not have solved the problem. I can’t argue with that. How long did you have this problem before you got it solved, Mike? I can look back now and say that when my mechanic said that the blower motor bearings were tight that I should have waited for the blower to act up again and then trouble shoot for the problem. He was thinking that the bearings get loose and the with the brushes wearing down that it could display the kind of symptoms I was having. Well I can now know that the blower is not going to give me any problems, it will be something else…<Grin> — Bill V. WV USA

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Cool.  My 94 had the exact same problem recently, the problem WAS the blower > motor relay, in the relay/fuse box on the RH fender, there are 6 or so, all > identical relays, switch it with the AC WOT relay to verify that it solves > it. > — > mike > Hello, > I have a 1994 Explorer Eddie B. > It has 118,200 miles. > I have had a problem with the blower simply stopping sometimes and then > coming back on later on it’s own. > It sometimes can not run when  first started then later start running. > So I took it to the local mechanic and he said it was probably the brushes > on the fan motor, and that it was a sealed unit. So it would have to be > replaced. > Well when I took it out to him the blower was working OK and he could not > get it to stop, but I told him to go ahead and replace it anyway. > Guess what , that wasn’t the problem or at least all of the problem > because > today it started doing the same thing!! > Does anyone have any ideas about this? > He said he checked the switches and they were OK. > Is there a relay that might have bad contacts? > Any help would be appreciated. > regards, > — > Bill V. > WV > USA

Response:

Hello, I have a 1994 Explorer Eddie B. It has 118,200 miles. I have had a problem with the blower simply stopping sometimes and then coming back on later on it’s own. It sometimes can not run when  first started then later start running. So I took it to the local mechanic and he said it was probably the brushes on the fan motor, and that it was a sealed unit. So it would have to be replaced. Well when I took it out to him the blower was working OK and he could not get it to stop, but I told him to go ahead and replace it anyway. Guess what , that wasn’t the problem or at least all of the problem because today it started doing the same thing!! Does anyone have any ideas about this? He said he checked the switches and they were OK. Is there a relay that might have bad contacts? Any help would be appreciated. regards, — Bill V. WV USA

Response:

Question:

I figured out this problem pretty quick: it started out that the blower would not come back on after the Explorer had sat for less than a few hours, until I hit a bump or something.  I could fix it by whapping the relay with my finger. — mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey Mike W., > thanks so much for the tip! > Yesterday here in WV it was 93 degrees and the blower stopped for a while > and of course the A/C was out then and I was desperate to get it fixed. > My wife said it was a shame to have paid $91.00 and still not have solved > the problem. I can’t argue with that. > How long did you have this problem before you got it solved, Mike? > I can look back now and say that when my mechanic said that the blower motor > bearings were tight that I should have waited for the blower to act up again > and then trouble shoot for the problem. > He was thinking that the bearings get loose and the with the brushes wearing > down that it could display the kind of symptoms I was having. > Well I can now know that the blower is not going to give me any problems, it > will be something else…<Grin> > — > Bill V. > WV > USA > Cool.  My 94 had the exact same problem recently, the problem WAS the > blower > motor relay, in the relay/fuse box on the RH fender, there are 6 or so, > all > identical relays, switch it with the AC WOT relay to verify that it solves > it. > — > mike > > Hello, > > I have a 1994 Explorer Eddie B. > > It has 118,200 miles. > > I have had a problem with the blower simply stopping sometimes and then > > coming back on later on it’s own. > > It sometimes can not run when  first started then later start running. > > So I took it to the local mechanic and he said it was probably the > brushes > > on the fan motor, and that it was a sealed unit. So it would have to be > > replaced. > > Well when I took it out to him the blower was working OK and he could > not > > get it to stop, but I told him to go ahead and replace it anyway. > > Guess what , that wasn’t the problem or at least all of the problem > because > > today it started doing the same thing!! > > Does anyone have any ideas about this? > > He said he checked the switches and they were OK. > > Is there a relay that might have bad contacts? > > Any help would be appreciated. > > regards, > > — > > Bill V. > > WV > > USA

Response:

Cool.  My 94 had the exact same problem recently, the problem WAS the blower motor relay, in the relay/fuse box on the RH fender, there are 6 or so, all identical relays, switch it with the AC WOT relay to verify that it solves it. — mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I have a 1994 Explorer Eddie B. > It has 118,200 miles. > I have had a problem with the blower simply stopping sometimes and then > coming back on later on it’s own. > It sometimes can not run when  first started then later start running. > So I took it to the local mechanic and he said it was probably the brushes > on the fan motor, and that it was a sealed unit. So it would have to be > replaced. > Well when I took it out to him the blower was working OK and he could not > get it to stop, but I told him to go ahead and replace it anyway. > Guess what , that wasn’t the problem or at least all of the problem because > today it started doing the same thing!! > Does anyone have any ideas about this? > He said he checked the switches and they were OK. > Is there a relay that might have bad contacts? > Any help would be appreciated. > regards, > — > Bill V. > WV > USA

Response:

Hey Mike W., thanks so much for the tip! Yesterday here in WV it was 93 degrees and the blower stopped for a while and of course the A/C was out then and I was desperate to get it fixed. My wife said it was a shame to have paid $91.00 and still not have solved the problem. I can’t argue with that. How long did you have this problem before you got it solved, Mike? I can look back now and say that when my mechanic said that the blower motor bearings were tight that I should have waited for the blower to act up again and then trouble shoot for the problem. He was thinking that the bearings get loose and the with the brushes wearing down that it could display the kind of symptoms I was having. Well I can now know that the blower is not going to give me any problems, it will be something else…<Grin> — Bill V. WV USA

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Cool.  My 94 had the exact same problem recently, the problem WAS the blower > motor relay, in the relay/fuse box on the RH fender, there are 6 or so, all > identical relays, switch it with the AC WOT relay to verify that it solves > it. > — > mike > Hello, > I have a 1994 Explorer Eddie B. > It has 118,200 miles. > I have had a problem with the blower simply stopping sometimes and then > coming back on later on it’s own. > It sometimes can not run when  first started then later start running. > So I took it to the local mechanic and he said it was probably the brushes > on the fan motor, and that it was a sealed unit. So it would have to be > replaced. > Well when I took it out to him the blower was working OK and he could not > get it to stop, but I told him to go ahead and replace it anyway. > Guess what , that wasn’t the problem or at least all of the problem > because > today it started doing the same thing!! > Does anyone have any ideas about this? > He said he checked the switches and they were OK. > Is there a relay that might have bad contacts? > Any help would be appreciated. > regards, > — > Bill V. > WV > USA

Response:

Hello, I have a 1994 Explorer Eddie B. It has 118,200 miles. I have had a problem with the blower simply stopping sometimes and then coming back on later on it’s own. It sometimes can not run when  first started then later start running. So I took it to the local mechanic and he said it was probably the brushes on the fan motor, and that it was a sealed unit. So it would have to be replaced. Well when I took it out to him the blower was working OK and he could not get it to stop, but I told him to go ahead and replace it anyway. Guess what , that wasn’t the problem or at least all of the problem because today it started doing the same thing!! Does anyone have any ideas about this? He said he checked the switches and they were OK. Is there a relay that might have bad contacts? Any help would be appreciated. regards, — Bill V. WV USA

Response:

Question:

Well, I guess that noise under my vehicle was my ABS about to go out. I got in today and the ABS light wouldnt turn off. I checked the manual and it said that the brakes will still function normally, they just wont have the ABS feature. I took it for a drive and it seemed fine except for the ABS light on. Now I realize that ABS is important on a vehicle like this, especially under bad weather, so How much might this cost to get fixed? What are the dangers of waiting? I dont really have a choice, but any and all information will be useful. thanks! 1994 explorer sport 4×4

Response:

I just saw that past thread on early (1994) Explorer ABS failure. I checked my brake fluid and it is to the top. I checked the 2 ABS fuses and they seemed fine, there are 2 ABS relay fuses too (the kind you cant tell if they are burned out or not) and I assume they are OK because they are not burnt. Now here’s the thing, I noticed a little red box near the window wash reservoir that was called "Anti-lock Test", there were just 4 wires going into the red box, and all seemed secure and connected. I am not sure how that test box even works, it just looks like a wire relay or something. P.S. no fluid leaks either. Any ideas folks? Thanks!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Well, I guess that noise under my vehicle was my ABS about to go out. > I got in today and the ABS light wouldnt turn off. I checked the > manual and it said that the brakes will still function normally, they > just wont have the ABS feature. I took it for a drive and it seemed > fine except for the ABS light on. Now I realize that ABS is important > on a vehicle like this, especially under bad weather, so How much > might this cost to get fixed? What are the dangers of waiting? I dont > really have a choice, but any and all information will be useful. > thanks! 1994 explorer sport 4×4

Response:

The ABS test connector can be used to diagnose and get a "flash code" on the system. It’s been a few years since I had to test mine, but the procedure is in a Mitchells manual. I found the manual in the reference section of my public library. Mike ‘94 XLT

Response:

Question:

Well, I guess that noise under my vehicle was my ABS about to go out. I got in today and the ABS light wouldnt turn off. I checked the manual and it said that the brakes will still function normally, they just wont have the ABS feature. I took it for a drive and it seemed fine except for the ABS light on. Now I realize that ABS is important on a vehicle like this, especially under bad weather, so How much might this cost to get fixed? What are the dangers of waiting? I dont really have a choice, but any and all information will be useful. thanks! 1994 explorer sport 4×4

Response:

I just saw that past thread on early (1994) Explorer ABS failure. I checked my brake fluid and it is to the top. I checked the 2 ABS fuses and they seemed fine, there are 2 ABS relay fuses too (the kind you cant tell if they are burned out or not) and I assume they are OK because they are not burnt. Now here’s the thing, I noticed a little red box near the window wash reservoir that was called "Anti-lock Test", there were just 4 wires going into the red box, and all seemed secure and connected. I am not sure how that test box even works, it just looks like a wire relay or something. P.S. no fluid leaks either. Any ideas folks? Thanks!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Well, I guess that noise under my vehicle was my ABS about to go out. > I got in today and the ABS light wouldnt turn off. I checked the > manual and it said that the brakes will still function normally, they > just wont have the ABS feature. I took it for a drive and it seemed > fine except for the ABS light on. Now I realize that ABS is important > on a vehicle like this, especially under bad weather, so How much > might this cost to get fixed? What are the dangers of waiting? I dont > really have a choice, but any and all information will be useful. > thanks! 1994 explorer sport 4×4

Response:

The ABS test connector can be used to diagnose and get a "flash code" on the system. It’s been a few years since I had to test mine, but the procedure is in a Mitchells manual. I found the manual in the reference section of my public library. Mike ‘94 XLT

Response:

Question:

I have a ‘97 XLT V8 AWD Automatic with 65,000 miles.  Drove it home today for lunch (7 miles) without any problems.  Left for work, and 1 1/2 miles later as I was accelerating into traffic the engine just died like the key had been turned off!  It will restart and idle fine, but the engine will quit above 1000 RPM (in gear or out).  I can even put it in gear and drive at idle speed.  Any ideas on where to start checking???  ( I’m thinking fuel problem ) Thanks in advance for your inputs……

Response:

A friend of mine had this problem with a 1994 Explorer, 4 L engine.  He replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, about $25 at Autozone, and that fixed the problem.  What happens is that when the sensor goes out of range because it’s bad, the engine dies, but will restart and will run at idle.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘97 XLT V8 AWD Automatic with 65,000 miles.  Drove it home > today for lunch (7 miles) without any problems.  Left for work, and 1 > 1/2 miles later as I was accelerating into traffic the engine just > died like the key had been turned off!  It will restart and idle fine, > but the engine will quit above 1000 RPM (in gear or out).  I can even > put it in gear and drive at idle speed.  Any ideas on where to start > checking???  ( I’m thinking fuel problem ) > Thanks in advance for your inputs……

Response:

thanks for your inputs…..here’s what I’ve done so far: Checked all fuses (fuse & power distribution panel).  Swapped fuel pump relay.  I am planning on replacing the fuel filter tomorrow! Will reseach the throttle position sensor…. Any more ideas??? Thanks again….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > A friend of mine had this problem with a 1994 Explorer, 4 L engine.  He > replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, about $25 at Autozone, and that fixed > the problem.  What happens is that when the sensor goes out of range because > it’s bad, the engine dies, but will restart and will run at idle. > > I have a ‘97 XLT V8 AWD Automatic with 65,000 miles.  Drove it home > > today for lunch (7 miles) without any problems.  Left for work, and 1 > > 1/2 miles later as I was accelerating into traffic the engine just > > died like the key had been turned off!  It will restart and idle fine, > > but the engine will quit above 1000 RPM (in gear or out).  I can even > > put it in gear and drive at idle speed.  Any ideas on where to start > > checking???  ( I’m thinking fuel problem ) > > Thanks in advance for your inputs……

Response:

No "Check Engine" while it’s running.  Once the engine dies….all the panel lights come on…..including the "check engine", but I don’t think this is abnormal. There are really no symptoms other than the engine dying when you give it gas (above an idle).  I will be working on it today and will update with results. Thanks for your advice….

Response:

Changed fuel filter and pulled throttle position sensor off and it checked OK with meter.  Without a good lead to follow, I’m afraid this one will be resolved by the boys with the toys (Ford service & diagnostics). Any last "hail Mary" will be appreciated…..

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anyone could use this info in the future!!!

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Question:

I have a ‘97 XLT V8 AWD Automatic with 65,000 miles.  Drove it home today for lunch (7 miles) without any problems.  Left for work, and 1 1/2 miles later as I was accelerating into traffic the engine just died like the key had been turned off!  It will restart and idle fine, but the engine will quit above 1000 RPM (in gear or out).  I can even put it in gear and drive at idle speed.  Any ideas on where to start checking???  ( I’m thinking fuel problem ) Thanks in advance for your inputs……

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A friend of mine had this problem with a 1994 Explorer, 4 L engine.  He replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, about $25 at Autozone, and that fixed the problem.  What happens is that when the sensor goes out of range because it’s bad, the engine dies, but will restart and will run at idle.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘97 XLT V8 AWD Automatic with 65,000 miles.  Drove it home > today for lunch (7 miles) without any problems.  Left for work, and 1 > 1/2 miles later as I was accelerating into traffic the engine just > died like the key had been turned off!  It will restart and idle fine, > but the engine will quit above 1000 RPM (in gear or out).  I can even > put it in gear and drive at idle speed.  Any ideas on where to start > checking???  ( I’m thinking fuel problem ) > Thanks in advance for your inputs……

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thanks for your inputs…..here’s what I’ve done so far: Checked all fuses (fuse & power distribution panel).  Swapped fuel pump relay.  I am planning on replacing the fuel filter tomorrow! Will reseach the throttle position sensor…. Any more ideas??? Thanks again….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > A friend of mine had this problem with a 1994 Explorer, 4 L engine.  He > replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, about $25 at Autozone, and that fixed > the problem.  What happens is that when the sensor goes out of range because > it’s bad, the engine dies, but will restart and will run at idle. > > I have a ‘97 XLT V8 AWD Automatic with 65,000 miles.  Drove it home > > today for lunch (7 miles) without any problems.  Left for work, and 1 > > 1/2 miles later as I was accelerating into traffic the engine just > > died like the key had been turned off!  It will restart and idle fine, > > but the engine will quit above 1000 RPM (in gear or out).  I can even > > put it in gear and drive at idle speed.  Any ideas on where to start > > checking???  ( I’m thinking fuel problem ) > > Thanks in advance for your inputs……

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No "Check Engine" while it’s running.  Once the engine dies….all the panel lights come on…..including the "check engine", but I don’t think this is abnormal. There are really no symptoms other than the engine dying when you give it gas (above an idle).  I will be working on it today and will update with results. Thanks for your advice….

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Changed fuel filter and pulled throttle position sensor off and it checked OK with meter.  Without a good lead to follow, I’m afraid this one will be resolved by the boys with the toys (Ford service & diagnostics). Any last "hail Mary" will be appreciated…..

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anyone could use this info in the future!!!

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Question:

I’ve had that problem with other vehicles.  All I did was ensure the door was unlocked, pulled the outside handle to open, and then used needle nose pliers to push the mechanism down.

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> I’ve had that problem with other vehicles.  All I did was ensure the door was > unlocked, pulled the outside handle to open, and then used needle nose pliers > to push the mechanism down.

i’ve tried that but with a hammer and screwdriver… didn’t do anything.  I also tried pulling the inside door handle but that didn’t work either…

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Did you try pulling the door handle open to unlock the latch? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->’m having a few problems with the passenger front door.  The mechanism >that > holds the door closed is seized in the closed position. the problem is >that > the door is open so I can’t close it anymore.

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Hello, I’m having a few problems with the passenger front door.  The mechanism that holds the door closed is seized in the closed position. the problem is that the door is open so I can’t close it anymore.  The other problem is that the door has sagged a little bit.  it hangs down enough that it doesn’t align with the peg the door catches on to close.  Any advice would be really appreicated.  I tried to remove the closing mechanism from the door but the rods for the inside door handle and the rod for the inside locking mechanism keep me from taking it out of the door and i can’t quite figure out how to detach them. Thanks. JF

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Forgot to mention, mine is a 1994 Explorer XLT V6

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I’m having a few problems with the passenger front door.  The mechanism that > holds the door closed is seized in the closed position. the problem is that > the door is open so I can’t close it anymore.  The other problem is that the > door has sagged a little bit.  it hangs down enough that it doesn’t align > with the peg the door catches on to close.  Any advice would be really > appreicated.  I tried to remove the closing mechanism from the door but the > rods for the inside door handle and the rod for the inside locking mechanism > keep me from taking it out of the door and i can’t quite figure out how to > detach them. > Thanks. > JF

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Question:

I’ve had that problem with other vehicles.  All I did was ensure the door was unlocked, pulled the outside handle to open, and then used needle nose pliers to push the mechanism down.

Response:

> I’ve had that problem with other vehicles.  All I did was ensure the door was > unlocked, pulled the outside handle to open, and then used needle nose pliers > to push the mechanism down.

i’ve tried that but with a hammer and screwdriver… didn’t do anything.  I also tried pulling the inside door handle but that didn’t work either…

Response:

Did you try pulling the door handle open to unlock the latch? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->’m having a few problems with the passenger front door.  The mechanism >that > holds the door closed is seized in the closed position. the problem is >that > the door is open so I can’t close it anymore.

Response:

Hello, I’m having a few problems with the passenger front door.  The mechanism that holds the door closed is seized in the closed position. the problem is that the door is open so I can’t close it anymore.  The other problem is that the door has sagged a little bit.  it hangs down enough that it doesn’t align with the peg the door catches on to close.  Any advice would be really appreicated.  I tried to remove the closing mechanism from the door but the rods for the inside door handle and the rod for the inside locking mechanism keep me from taking it out of the door and i can’t quite figure out how to detach them. Thanks. JF

Response:

Forgot to mention, mine is a 1994 Explorer XLT V6

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I’m having a few problems with the passenger front door.  The mechanism that > holds the door closed is seized in the closed position. the problem is that > the door is open so I can’t close it anymore.  The other problem is that the > door has sagged a little bit.  it hangs down enough that it doesn’t align > with the peg the door catches on to close.  Any advice would be really > appreicated.  I tried to remove the closing mechanism from the door but the > rods for the inside door handle and the rod for the inside locking mechanism > keep me from taking it out of the door and i can’t quite figure out how to > detach them. > Thanks. > JF

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