Question:

<<1995 Explorer..my heat gauge does not move up but about <<an eigth of an inch and the heater does not get very <<hot. anyone know what may be causing <<this…thanks..Ronnie>> <<Thermostat.>> Agreed – jammed wide open.

Response:

Definately the thermostat….Make sure you get that gasket out! Searcher1

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > <<1995 Explorer..my heat gauge does not move up but about <<an eigth of an > inch and the heater does not get very <<hot. anyone know what may be > causing <<this…thanks..Ronnie>> > <<Thermostat.>> > Agreed – jammed wide open.

Response:

1995 Explorer..my heat gauge does not move up but about an eigth of an inch and the heater does not get very hot.anyone know what may be causing this…thanks..Ronnie

Response:

> 1995 Explorer..my heat gauge does not move up but about an eigth of an inch > and the heater does not get very hot.anyone know what may be causing > this…thanks..Ronnie

Thermostat.

Response:

Question:

Howdy, I have a light bulb or 2 (in particular, behind the fuel gauge) that have gone out. The dealer (while estimating other maintenance charges) said it’d be $80 to replace the bulbs. I can live without them for $80, but the price makes me suspect that 99% is labor charges, meaning 1.5 hours worth of work.  Is this a correct assumption? (for a first time bulb changer?) At any rate, can I get replacement bulbs at my local Autozone or Pep Boys? Also, what is involved in replacing the bulbs?  Are there a series of screws I take out to pop the dash off, or do I just reach behind and feel my way? One last question, my odometer stops working from time to time (I hear a clicking when it stops turning, so my guess is it’s cable driven and the gears are skipping), while I’m changing the bulbs will I be able to get to and diagnose the problem with the odometer? Thanks, Mike

Response:

> At any rate, can I get replacement bulbs at my local Autozone or Pep Boys? > Also, what is involved in replacing the bulbs?  Are there a series of screws > I take out to pop the dash off, or do I just reach behind and feel my way?

See http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/instruments.html . Haven’t done this myself, but have the same bulb burned out on the wife’s ‘95. I’ll replace all the bulbs so I only have to do it once.

Response:

The illumination bulbs are #194. Get the 194LL bulbs, if you can.  They have longer rated lives.

Response:

> At any rate, can I get replacement bulbs at my local Autozone or Pep Boys? > Also, what is involved in replacing the bulbs?  Are there a series of screws > I take out to pop the dash off, or do I just reach behind and feel my way?

Mike, I just replaced all of my bulbs in my 95 Explorers dash. I noticed a few would go out and after a while only one worked. I bought my bulbs from Wal-Mart. There’s quite a bit of labor to unscrew all of those screws but the whole job took me about an hour to complete. From 1 to 10, 10 being the worst I would say it is about a 7. HD

Response:

Thanks for the info y’all, 3 good useful response, off to the auto parts store

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> At any rate, can I get replacement bulbs at my local Autozone or Pep Boys? > Also, what is involved in replacing the bulbs?  Are there a series of screws > I take out to pop the dash off, or do I just reach behind and feel my way? > Mike, I just replaced all of my bulbs in my 95 Explorers dash. I > noticed a few would go out and after a while only one worked. I bought > my bulbs from Wal-Mart. There’s quite a bit of labor to unscrew all of > those screws but the whole job took me about an hour to complete. From > 1 to 10, 10 being the worst I would say it is about a 7. > HD

Response:

Has anyone seen these photos…it appears to be pretty detailed: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46290&highlight=…

Response:

Question:

i have a 96 explorer with 96k miles on it and have started to notice the same problem…a pronounced "hum" that gets louder as speed increases that is almost unbearable as its speed approaches 75mph.  it almost seems to come from the left side of the vehicle.   i have had a few problems with this vehicle, most notably the shocks that have had to be replaced twice. anyway, i’m in the same predicament, so any information that anybody has is greatly appreciated.

Response:

So I’d like to get some advice if anyone has some.  I’ve got a 1995 Explorer XLT 4WD with a 4L V6 and 170k.  There is a hum and vibration coming from the front end.  I was told that the drain plug was loose on the front diff and it was leaking fluid.  This person thought that problem was in the diff.  Another person drove it and said the problem was either the front wheel bearings or the bearings in the front diff, but not likely the diff gears.  What’s wrong with my truck? Here are some clues about the noise.  It happens when the truck is in 2WD or 4WD.  It stop when the wheel is turned maybe 15 or 20-degrees to the right.  So if I’m driving around a curve, there is no noise. Now I know nothing about cars, but it would seem to me that this means it’s not the bearings. Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. Oh, one more thing.  Should I try and save some money with an independant shop or should I take it to the dealer?  I usually avoid the dealer, but I feel like this may end up costing me a lot no matter where I go and maybe the dealer would have an easier time identifying the problem.  Is this going to cost a lot? Thanks all. Jason

Response:

Question:

        no codes, runs reasonably good cold, warm too, just sometimes (quite often) really rough irritating idle, no stall, just bloody rough, new plugs, air filter, compression exactly 155 on all cylinders, lots of injector cleaner through it, a long time ago, cleaned the mass airflow sensor with brake cleaner, still at a loss. 425 kms in the city on a tank of fuel, 550 on the highway, 375 towing the boat. any answrs? thanx in advance

Response:

Check for vacuum leak or PCV valve.  How old are the spark plug wires?

> no codes, runs reasonably good cold, warm too, just sometimes > (quite often) really rough irritating idle, no stall, just bloody > rough, new plugs, air filter, compression exactly 155 on all > cylinders, lots of injector cleaner through it, a long time ago, > cleaned the mass airflow sensor with brake cleaner, still at a loss. > 425 kms in the city on a tank of fuel, 550 on the highway, 375 towing > the boat. any answrs? thanx in advance

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

how bout the fuel filter ?   a clogged filter will cause a rough idle, and / or stalling…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> no codes, runs reasonably good cold, warm too, just sometimes > (quite often) really rough irritating idle, no stall, just bloody > rough, new plugs, air filter, compression exactly 155 on all > cylinders, lots of injector cleaner through it, a long time ago, > cleaned the mass airflow sensor with brake cleaner, still at a loss. > 425 kms in the city on a tank of fuel, 550 on the highway, 375 towing > the boat. any answrs? thanx in advance

Response:

wires are new, also used my little tester on em to make sure firing all down the line. Fuel filter changed 2 years ago when i bought it. would the filaments on the maf need cleaning after only a year? I use carb cleaner on them, should I use a more powerful solvent? Thanx guys – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->how bout the fuel filter ?   a clogged filter will cause a rough idle, and / >or stalling… > no codes, runs reasonably good cold, warm too, just sometimes > (quite often) really rough irritating idle, no stall, just bloody > rough, new plugs, air filter, compression exactly 155 on all > cylinders, lots of injector cleaner through it, a long time ago, > cleaned the mass airflow sensor with brake cleaner, still at a loss. > 425 kms in the city on a tank of fuel, 550 on the highway, 375 towing > the boat. any answrs? thanx in advance

Response:

Clean the IAC valve. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->wires are new, also used my little tester on em to make sure firing >all down the line. Fuel filter changed 2 years ago when i bought it. >would the filaments on the maf need cleaning after only a year? >I use carb cleaner on them, should I use a more powerful solvent? >Thanx guys >how bout the fuel filter ?   a clogged filter will cause a rough idle, and / >or stalling… >> no codes, runs reasonably good cold, warm too, just sometimes >> (quite often) really rough irritating idle, no stall, just bloody >> rough, new plugs, air filter, compression exactly 155 on all >> cylinders, lots of injector cleaner through it, a long time ago, >> cleaned the mass airflow sensor with brake cleaner, still at a loss. >> 425 kms in the city on a tank of fuel, 550 on the highway, 375 towing >> the boat. any answrs? thanx in advance

Response:

I’ve heard carb cleaner may be too strong for cleaning the  MAS.  It could cause damage. Use an electrical cleaner that does not leave any residue. http://www.tccoa.com/articles/intake/mafclean.html

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> wires are new, also used my little tester on em to make sure firing > all down the line. Fuel filter changed 2 years ago when i bought it. > would the filaments on the maf need cleaning after only a year? > I use carb cleaner on them, should I use a more powerful solvent? > Thanx guys >how bout the fuel filter ?   a clogged filter will cause a rough idle, and / >or stalling… >> no codes, runs reasonably good cold, warm too, just sometimes >> (quite often) really rough irritating idle, no stall, just bloody >> rough, new plugs, air filter, compression exactly 155 on all >> cylinders, lots of injector cleaner through it, a long time ago, >> cleaned the mass airflow sensor with brake cleaner, still at a loss. >> 425 kms in the city on a tank of fuel, 550 on the highway, 375 towing >> the boat. any answrs? thanx in advance

Response:

Question:

I have a 1995 Explorer and the center rear Brake Light went out. How do you open the housing to replace it? There is no entry from the exterior of the hatch door. Do I have to dissassemble the whole interior hatch molding to get to the bulb? Thanks for your reponses. Bruce

Response:

You have to remove the inner hatch decorative panel, to get to the mounting, there is no bulb, it’s a one piece assembly plus a ballast. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 1995 Explorer and the center rear Brake Light went out. How do >you open the housing to replace it? There is no entry from the exterior >of the hatch door. Do I have to dissassemble the whole interior hatch >molding to get to the bulb? >Thanks for your reponses. >Bruce

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Question:

1995 Explorer with the 4.0L V-6 Where exactly is the PCV valve located?  Haynes says it is located at the back of the intake manifold, but I don’t see it.  Do I need to remove stuff to uncover it?  I have searched high and low to no avail. Sincerely, "Peeved at my PCV"

Response:

On my ‘93 4.0L, should be similar.  There is a short rubber hose on the drivers side of the intake that goes to the top of the valve cover.  That is the pcv valve in the cover.  The first time I bought one I ouldn’t find it because I was looking for something that looked like the one in the package. After I realized that I needed to remove that plastic piece off the new valve. Joey 93 EB 4.0L 4×4

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1995 Explorer with the 4.0L V-6 > Where exactly is the PCV valve located?  Haynes says it is located at the back > of the intake manifold, but I don’t see it.  Do I need to remove stuff to > uncover it?  I have searched high and low to no avail. > Sincerely, > "Peeved at my PCV"

Response:

Thanks JM- I don’t feel like such a jack— now!  Like you I was trying to find something that looked like the new one. After enjoying a leisurely dinner with the family and refocused, it appeared before my eyes.  I immediately rushed to the computer to rescinded my foolish post but you got me. Thanks for your help.

Response:

Question:

My 1995 Explorer XLT engine squeak or chirps when I start it cold.  Once it warms up it goes away.  Everything seems fine with the engine otherwise… Please help…

Response:

>My 1995 Explorer XLT engine squeak or chirps when I start it cold.  Once it >warms up it goes away.  Everything seems fine with the engine otherwise… >Please help…

It sounds like either the belt, tension pulley, or a bearing/pulley on the pwr steering, A/C,etc. Try spraying some belt dressing on the belt. If it still squeaks, its probably one of the pulleys or bearings.

Response:

Sounds like it is related to the serpentine belt. I’d try a new belt. Ed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My 1995 Explorer XLT engine squeak or chirps when I start it cold.  Once it > warms up it goes away.  Everything seems fine with the engine otherwise… > Please help…

Response:

> Sounds like it is related to the serpentine belt. I’d try a new belt. > Ed > My 1995 Explorer XLT engine squeak or chirps when I start it cold.  Once it > warms up it goes away.  Everything seems fine with the engine otherwise… > Please help…

spray some belt lube on it and see what happens.. if the squeaking stops instantly, get another belt.

Response:

Regarding the cold start squeaking. I’ve experienced the exact same thing, but it comes and goes.  One month it will do it for a day or two when cold, then go away for a month.  In our case, it was not the serpentine belt.  I did the liquid soap on the serpentine belt, still the squeak.  Did the ultimate test by removing the serpentine belt entirely and started the engine for just a few seconds – still the same squeak.    If you decide to do this, ONLY do it for a second or two – the Explorer electrical system really does not like to have the engine running without the alternator (which is driven by the serp belt). The squeak appears to be coming from the top rear of the engine, behind the intake manifold.   The squeak appears to be cyclic, synchronized with the engine RPM.  More specifically, at 900 RPM (normal idle) the cyclic appears to be 450 "squeaks" a minute, which would be half crankshaft speed (and in fact, is the spark plug and fuel injector firing frequency). I determined this rate using a stopwatch and some clever counting/multiplying.  I verified it by using one of those engine stethoscopes listening to one (or any actually) of the fuel injectors, which have a well defined tic-tic-tic-tic-tic sound.  The squeak was right in line with the frequency of the injectors (although each was slightly out of phase of course, depending on injector). I wondered if it might be an internal engine bearing or camshaft bearing/lifter squeak.  However all that is bathed in oil.  Plus, the engine stethoscope revealed nothing when touched to the engine block in several places except for the normal purring you’d hear. I crawled underneath, and I could hear it.  It’s hard to locate, but it also seemed though the squeak may have been coming from somewhere between the oilpan and the torque convertor.  Possible oil pump squeaking?  Hard to imagine though, since it’s bathed in – you guessed it – oil. As with the previous poster, my squeak ALWAYS goes away after 5-10 min of driving and the engine warms up.  Possible rubbing or cyclic vibration of metal parts external to the engine, like maybe a manifold rubbing against some other metallic member?  It’s a well-defined metallic squeak or chirp, as opposed to a duller muffled squeak you might expect if it were coming from withing the engine block itself, or as opposed to a rubber-on-rubber or plastic parts squeak (which are also duller). It happens whether the truck’s in drive or neut. Are there any baffles or air valves (throttle plate, IAC valve maybe) that could be "fluttering" back and forth causing a squeak? I can’t think of any moving parts behind the engine itself.   Only other culprit could be rear main bearing, or more likely, the bearing seal squeaking?  There is no oil leakage or seepage.   Again though, the main bearings are also supplied with plenty of oil. Any clues welcome. Mike It’s also

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 1995 Explorer XLT engine squeak or chirps when I start it cold.  Once it > warms up it goes away.  Everything seems fine with the engine otherwise… > Please help…

Response:

I had a similar problem with my 97 sport. I took off the IAC and cleaned the inside with some carb cleaner. It changed the "tone" of the squeak, so I replaced the IAC and all was well. Hope this helps. — Dave Clark 4.0L OHV 97 Explorer Sport K&N FIPK Custom Cat back Exhaust Monroe reflex shocks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Regarding the cold start squeaking. > I’ve experienced the exact same thing, but it comes and goes.  One month it > will do it for a day or two when cold, then go away for a month.  In our > case, it was not the serpentine belt.  I did the liquid soap on the > serpentine belt, still the squeak.  Did the ultimate test by removing the > serpentine belt entirely and started the engine for just a few seconds – > still the same squeak.    If you decide to do this, ONLY do it for a second > or two – the Explorer electrical system really does not like to have the > engine running without the alternator (which is driven by the serp belt). > The squeak appears to be coming from the top rear of the engine, behind the > intake manifold.   The squeak appears to be cyclic, synchronized with the > engine RPM.  More specifically, at 900 RPM (normal idle) the cyclic appears > to be 450 "squeaks" a minute, which would be half crankshaft speed (and in > fact, is the spark plug and fuel injector firing frequency). > I determined this rate using a stopwatch and some clever > counting/multiplying.  I verified it by using one of those engine > stethoscopes listening to one (or any actually) of the fuel injectors, which > have a well defined tic-tic-tic-tic-tic sound.  The squeak was right in line > with the frequency of the injectors (although each was slightly out of phase > of course, depending on injector). > I wondered if it might be an internal engine bearing or camshaft > bearing/lifter squeak.  However all that is bathed in oil.  Plus, the engine > stethoscope revealed nothing when touched to the engine block in several > places except for the normal purring you’d hear. > I crawled underneath, and I could hear it.  It’s hard to locate, but it also > seemed though the squeak may have been coming from somewhere between the > oilpan and the torque convertor.  Possible oil pump squeaking?  Hard to > imagine though, since it’s bathed in – you guessed it – oil. > As with the previous poster, my squeak ALWAYS goes away after 5-10 min of > driving and the engine warms up.  Possible rubbing or cyclic vibration of > metal parts external to the engine, like maybe a manifold rubbing against > some other metallic member?  It’s a well-defined metallic squeak or chirp, > as opposed to a duller muffled squeak you might expect if it were coming > from withing the engine block itself, or as opposed to a rubber-on-rubber or > plastic parts squeak (which are also duller). > It happens whether the truck’s in drive or neut. > Are there any baffles or air valves (throttle plate, IAC valve maybe) that > could be "fluttering" back and forth causing a squeak? > I can’t think of any moving parts behind the engine itself.   Only other > culprit could be rear main bearing, or more likely, the bearing seal > squeaking?  There is no oil leakage or seepage.   Again though, the main > bearings are also supplied with plenty of oil. > Any clues welcome. > Mike > It’s also > My 1995 Explorer XLT engine squeak or chirps when I start it cold.  Once > it > warms up it goes away.  Everything seems fine with the engine otherwise… > Please help…

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins! > Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins! > Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins! > Michelins!  Michelins! >What he said!! >Seriously, I have the LTX ATs on my ‘97 and the LTX M/S on my 2K. They’re >great tires, harkening back to the days when Michelin was THE tire >manufacturer of choice for all our imports. >Regards, >James

I’ve got Micheline Cross Terrains on my ‘97 EB you can’t mention Goodyear and Michelin in the same breath. Its like comparing a Yugo to a Ferrari

Response:

Since I’ve had a complete set of goodyears fail one me, I’d be cautious of them. Michelin makes a *GREAT* tire, as does BF Goodrich (seems I read these are the same company?).  Looks like I should be getting about 80k out of the Long Trail T/A’s on my Santa Fe, judging by the rate of wear now with 31k on it. TireRack has a sale on these tires right now – $66/ea for the 225/70R16 T-rated.  So cheap, but such a small size… if I still had my nissan truck, it’d sport a full set (and new rims JS

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Need to change tires soon, was wondering what people thought of the > Michelin LTXs or the new Goodyear Forteras.  I’m kinda partial to the > Goodyears, but I’ve been told that the Michelins may be better.  I wont > be going offroad, and snow is minimal here in Northern VA. (think > washington DC). > 1995 explorer, air ride control, x-spec anti sway bars (These things > make the explorer corner so much easier and stiffens the ride, if you > don’t have them – get them WELL worth the money. > www.explorerexpress.com) > thanks > patrick

Response:

> Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins! > Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins! > Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins! > Michelins!  Michelins!

What he said!! Seriously, I have the LTX ATs on my ‘97 and the LTX M/S on my 2K. They’re great tires, harkening back to the days when Michelin was THE tire manufacturer of choice for all our imports. Regards, James

Response:

Need to change tires soon, was wondering what people thought of the Michelin LTXs or the new Goodyear Forteras.  I’m kinda partial to the Goodyears, but I’ve been told that the Michelins may be better.  I wont be going offroad, and snow is minimal here in Northern VA. (think washington DC). 1995 explorer, air ride control, x-spec anti sway bars (These things make the explorer corner so much easier and stiffens the ride, if you don’t have them – get them WELL worth the money. www.explorerexpress.com) thanks patrick

Response:

Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins! Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins! Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins!  Michelins! Michelins!  Michelins! I have 60,000 miles on mine and there is at least another 10 left in them. I bought mine for $109 each at Sam’s Club, plus another $7.50 for mounting, lifetime rotating and road hazard warranty.  I couldn’t be happier with the low noise, great ride, and reasonable traction in Columbus, Ohio’s mild winters. Regards, Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Need to change tires soon, was wondering what people thought of the > Michelin LTXs or the new Goodyear Forteras.  I’m kinda partial to the > Goodyears, but I’ve been told that the Michelins may be better.  I wont > be going offroad, and snow is minimal here in Northern VA. (think > washington DC). > 1995 explorer, air ride control, x-spec anti sway bars (These things > make the explorer corner so much easier and stiffens the ride, if you > don’t have them – get them WELL worth the money. > www.explorerexpress.com) > thanks > patrick

Response:

Question:

Thanks guys

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Did mine up on jackstands.  No problems. > One thing I found exceedingly helpful was my electric impact for the front > top bolts.  Those suckers are usually stuck tight, and are so long.  Put the > impact on it and they came off like a dream. > Hope you have long skinny arms to get the new top bushing, washers and nut > on the passenger side.  Mine was really a tight place to work. > Dave > How difficult is it ? Do I need to have the truck on a lift? Do I need any > surprise special ford tools > I have a floor jack, ramps and Jack stands as well as a decent tool set. > Also what shocks do you recommend I’m sorry I know this must have been > covered more than a few times in this group > TIA > Kirk

Response:

How difficult is it ? Do I need to have the truck on a lift? Do I need any surprise special ford tools I have a floor jack, ramps and Jack stands as well as a decent tool set. Also what shocks do you recommend I’m sorry I know this must have been covered more than a few times in this group TIA Kirk

Response:

You don’t need any special Ford tools, you should be able to do it with what you have. I just used a floor jack and hand tools when I replaced the shocks on my ‘96, I went with Bilsteins. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >How difficult is it ? Do I need to have the truck on a lift? Do I need any >surprise special ford tools >I have a floor jack, ramps and Jack stands as well as a decent tool set. >Also what shocks do you recommend I’m sorry I know this must have been >covered more than a few times in this group >TIA >Kirk

Response:

Did mine up on jackstands.  No problems. One thing I found exceedingly helpful was my electric impact for the front top bolts.  Those suckers are usually stuck tight, and are so long.  Put the impact on it and they came off like a dream. Hope you have long skinny arms to get the new top bushing, washers and nut on the passenger side.  Mine was really a tight place to work. Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> How difficult is it ? Do I need to have the truck on a lift? Do I need any > surprise special ford tools > I have a floor jack, ramps and Jack stands as well as a decent tool set. > Also what shocks do you recommend I’m sorry I know this must have been > covered more than a few times in this group > TIA > Kirk

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Question:

thumbs up to them

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a friend that does this and "usually" you would never even know there > was a dent. Usually=99.9%

Response:

Did you have the paintless dent repair done?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> WOW I am impressed…… you can truly not tell the dents were ever > thumbs up to them > I have a friend that does this and "usually" you would never even know there > was a dent. Usually=99.9%

Response:

Yes sir I did.  Well, THEY had it done. I dropped it off there because they were going to have to take out their box they built for it, and then drive it over there and have them fix it, then drive it back and then re-fit the box and reinstall it. But it was a fantastic job…… I can’t tell anything wrong with it.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Did you have the paintless dent repair done? > WOW I am impressed…… you can truly not tell the dents were ever > thumbs up to them > > I have a friend that does this and "usually" you would never even know > there > > was a dent. Usually=99.9%

Response:

I have a friend that does this and "usually" you would never even know there was a dent. Usually=99.9%

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Went by right after work today.  They see their mistake.  They gave me a couple of > options.  1.) I can go get an estimate done on having it repaired and they would > gladly foot the bill, or 2.) They know a company that works for several dealerships > Which sounds to be the best bet? > First of all, they are going to have to take out the enclosure and make sure the box > isn’t what is causing this….. ’cause it looks like a "crease" in the body probably > at the top edge of the box.  It would have to be taken out anyway for the repair. > Anyone have any knowledge on this "paintless dent repair"??  Is that going to make > this look worse? > Tim > Tim, > Also check the back of the reciept, there may be some sort of agreement on > there.SoundsExtreme is located in Northern New Jersey.But we ship world wide. > Mark S > Owner > SoundsExtreme > Ps.Make sure there are other customers around when you start to complain. It > will help ALOT

Response:

Tim, Also check the back of the reciept, there may be some sort of agreement on there.SoundsExtreme is located in Northern New Jersey.But we ship world wide. Mark S Owner SoundsExtreme Ps.Make sure there are other customers around when you start to complain. It will help ALOT

Response:

Went by right after work today.  They see their mistake.  They gave me a couple of options.  1.) I can go get an estimate done on having it repaired and they would gladly foot the bill, or 2.) They know a company that works for several dealerships Which sounds to be the best bet? First of all, they are going to have to take out the enclosure and make sure the box isn’t what is causing this….. ’cause it looks like a "crease" in the body probably at the top edge of the box.  It would have to be taken out anyway for the repair. Anyone have any knowledge on this "paintless dent repair"??  Is that going to make this look worse? Tim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tim, > Also check the back of the reciept, there may be some sort of agreement on > there.SoundsExtreme is located in Northern New Jersey.But we ship world wide. > Mark S > Owner > SoundsExtreme > Ps.Make sure there are other customers around when you start to complain. It > will help ALOT

Response:

Tim, Go back there ASAP, the longer you wait the more they’ll say it happened after u picked it up.speak directly with the store manager or the owner.not the intstaller.Did u sign any sort of agreement when you picked it up??acknowlaging that the car was ok? Mark S Owner SoundsExtreme

Response:

> Go back there ASAP, the longer you wait the more they’ll say it happened after > u picked it up.speak directly with the store manager or the owner.not the > intstaller.Did u sign any sort of agreement when you picked it up??acknowlaging > that the car was ok?

Tomorrow is as soon as I can. If they were open today, you can bet that I’d be up there before they opened.  I will go there directly after work tomorrow. And as for an agreement, I have not put my signature on any documents they have given me. The only thing I have is a computer generated receipt. My only wish was that I would have seen this before I left their lot (they close at 6PM monday thru saturday, and I left their lot at 6:30…. so it took longer than expected). > Mark S > Owner > SoundsExtreme

Thanks Mark Where is SoundsExtreme???  :)  I may start to do business there…. Tim

Response:

Well I told them to do their best job to get a 10" in there, but they said there wasn’t enough room when I went to go pick it up. Overall it sounds quite nice. However, when I got home, I noticed something that appalled me. Directly on the other side of the speaker (on the outside of the vehicle, not inside) there is a noticeable "bump" above where the speaker is.  Looks like they were trying to put something in there and force it, then it gave way and they shoved it into the inner-wall, making a protruding bump on the outside. So now I’m furious with them, and don’t know what to do.  This area of the vehicle is part of the main body and I wouldn’t know how to have it fixed or even if it can be fixed.  If it can be fixed, I wonder if it would do more harm than good?  However leaving it alone just irritates me ’cause it’s my first new vehicle, not even a year old, and now has a flaw in the body.  With this bump, would the paint begin to crack soon?? I took pictures with my camera…. I’d post them here but I’d probably get flamed for posting a picture (even if under 60k). Tim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> From the sounds of it, you say you want deep rich full bass, I would go with > the single 10 instead of the 8. The 8 is gonna give you a much tighter thump > then the 10. A ten is kinda of a best of both worlds. It is much tighter > then a 12 yet still provides a nice much deeper full tone then an 8. > Hey Dude, > FYI, you might also want to try the rec.audio.car newsgroup. > A lot of good info can be had over there concerning car audio. > Later…. > > Thanks for the response……. > > Actually, went by an Audio Store yesterday and have an appointment for > next Saturday > > for them to install an 8" Subwoofer in the rear driver’s-side cargo net > (where the > > factory sub would go). > > They asked me that if they could fit a 10" in there if I woudl want it. > I > said > > depending on how much extra…… maybe, but that’s a big maybe…. lol. > I don’t > > want a loud thump going on, all I want is deep rich full bass. > > > Tim, > > > It all comes done to your prefrence.personally I would replace the 4 > speakers > > > first, by doing that you will notice a big difference in the bass > > > response.After you have those replaced you can start picking out a > sub/amp > > > combo based on how much more bass you want.any questions feel free to > ask > > > Ps.on the kenwood deck types A,B,C,D refer to the enclosure the sub is > in. > > > Mark S > > > Owner > > > SoundsExtreme

Response:

From the sounds of it, you say you want deep rich full bass, I would go with the single 10 instead of the 8. The 8 is gonna give you a much tighter thump then the 10. A ten is kinda of a best of both worlds. It is much tighter then a 12 yet still provides a nice much deeper full tone then an 8.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey Dude, > FYI, you might also want to try the rec.audio.car newsgroup. > A lot of good info can be had over there concerning car audio. > Later…. > Thanks for the response……. > Actually, went by an Audio Store yesterday and have an appointment for > next Saturday > for them to install an 8" Subwoofer in the rear driver’s-side cargo net > (where the > factory sub would go). > They asked me that if they could fit a 10" in there if I woudl want it. I > said > depending on how much extra…… maybe, but that’s a big maybe…. lol. > I don’t > want a loud thump going on, all I want is deep rich full bass. > > Tim, > > It all comes done to your prefrence.personally I would replace the 4 > speakers > > first, by doing that you will notice a big difference in the bass > > response.After you have those replaced you can start picking out a > sub/amp > > combo based on how much more bass you want.any questions feel free to > ask > > Ps.on the kenwood deck types A,B,C,D refer to the enclosure the sub is > in. > > Mark S > > Owner > > SoundsExtreme

Response:

I was getting ready to jump on it, and go and have all my factory speakers replaced in my ‘02 Explorer XLS with some new ones (probably either Pioneer or Alpine, and was considering Kenwood as well). However, a friend of mine suggested that rather than replacing the factory speakers now, why not spend the money on having a subwoofer installed in the back cargo area (as the Eddie Bauer’s and Limited’s have stock).  I didn’t have an answer as I know nothing about what would be the best "For now".  I’d like to do both but not at the same time. To get the best sound (I want a rich bass but not rumbling the walls), which would any of you get first? Thanks, Tim

Response:

Forgot to mention… I have had the head unit replaced from the original 15 watt (??) AM/FM Stereo Casette.  I have a Kenwoos Z828 MP3 CD Player that has a built-in amp for 4×47 Watts. It has Subwoofer outs, and you can configure between several types of subwoofers (varying in sizes from 8" to 12" and Type’s A, B, C, and D whatever those are). Thanks!

Response:

I have a 1995 explorer, and have 3 10" MTX 6000 subs in the back cargo area.  They are hooked up to a Pioneer 750w amp, and an Alpine 7892 head unit.  This rumbles the walls.  I know they have on www.crutchfield.com a 10" MTX 6000 w/ an amp that fits where the factory "sub" would go.  I don’t know if it would fit your car however.  Since you don’t want huge bass, I’d just go for a single woofer.  I don’t have upgraded speakers, but I’d rather have great bass. You would be surprised how much better your system will sound afterwards with a sub. I think someone in this group works at a car audio company. (mark?) They probably have good info for you. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Forgot to mention… > I have had the head unit replaced from the original 15 watt (??) AM/FM Stereo > Casette.  I have a Kenwoos Z828 MP3 CD Player that has a built-in amp for 4×47 Watts. > It has Subwoofer outs, and you can configure between several types of subwoofers > (varying in sizes from 8" to 12" and Type’s A, B, C, and D whatever those are). > Thanks!

Response:

Tim, It all comes done to your prefrence.personally I would replace the 4 speakers first, by doing that you will notice a big difference in the bass response.After you have those replaced you can start picking out a sub/amp combo based on how much more bass you want.any questions feel free to ask Ps.on the kenwood deck types A,B,C,D refer to the enclosure the sub is in. Mark S Owner SoundsExtreme

Response:

Thanks for the response……. Actually, went by an Audio Store yesterday and have an appointment for next Saturday for them to install an 8" Subwoofer in the rear driver’s-side cargo net (where the factory sub would go). They asked me that if they could fit a 10" in there if I woudl want it. I said depending on how much extra…… maybe, but that’s a big maybe…. lol.  I don’t want a loud thump going on, all I want is deep rich full bass.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tim, > It all comes done to your prefrence.personally I would replace the 4 speakers > first, by doing that you will notice a big difference in the bass > response.After you have those replaced you can start picking out a sub/amp > combo based on how much more bass you want.any questions feel free to ask > Ps.on the kenwood deck types A,B,C,D refer to the enclosure the sub is in. > Mark S > Owner > SoundsExtreme

Response:

Hey Dude, FYI, you might also want to try the rec.audio.car newsgroup. A lot of good info can be had over there concerning car audio. Later….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for the response……. > Actually, went by an Audio Store yesterday and have an appointment for next Saturday > for them to install an 8" Subwoofer in the rear driver’s-side cargo net (where the > factory sub would go). > They asked me that if they could fit a 10" in there if I woudl want it. I said > depending on how much extra…… maybe, but that’s a big maybe…. lol. I don’t > want a loud thump going on, all I want is deep rich full bass. > Tim, > It all comes done to your prefrence.personally I would replace the 4 speakers > first, by doing that you will notice a big difference in the bass > response.After you have those replaced you can start picking out a sub/amp > combo based on how much more bass you want.any questions feel free to ask > Ps.on the kenwood deck types A,B,C,D refer to the enclosure the sub is in. > Mark S > Owner > SoundsExtreme

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