Question:

Hello to all! Just 2 days ago my overdrive light started blinking, I hear a slight noise coming from the transmission area is this BAD or what!   Has anyone had this problem before, please comment? Thanks, Ivan

Response:

Maybe it something in the air, but my light started blinking on saturday also on my ‘95 explorer.  I have 103k miles, and have had fluid flushed at 50, 75, and 100k miles.  I am bringing it to a transmission shop to have them diagnose the problem tomorrow.  I’ll update you on what was wrong.  Currently I have hard shifting from 1st to 2nd. – Patrick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello to all! > Just 2 days ago my overdrive light started blinking, I hear a slight > noise coming from the transmission area is this BAD or what! > Has anyone had this problem before, please comment? > Thanks, > Ivan

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Question:

After reading the threads in a bunch of categories here, I feel you are very qualified to answer my little teeny weeny question. I have a 1995 explorer xlt (you can search mucho threads from me here, you have answered in some) i had a broken wire in the door harness which i THOUGHT would fix my keyless entry probem. I have the keypad, which doesnt work, and cycling the key does not enter programming mode. I am led to believe then that the keyless entry module (RAP) module is gone, but i would like to confirm this either through checking wires for voltage/continuity, etc. DO you know how to test, how much/difficult would it be to add the keyless entry kit, as a quickfix, should i do an aftermarket one, and thanx muchly for your time (and anyone else who reads this)

Response:

Sorry, Barry…. keyless entry isn’t a big seller in our area so I have zip for familiarity (we’re not all rich Saskatchewan farmers 8^) ). I even checked the repair and wiring manuals at work and came up with not even a mention of keyless entry. Closest thing we get is when someone wants the doorlock feature in their remote start hooked up. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> After reading the threads in a bunch of categories here, I feel you > are very qualified to answer my little teeny weeny question. I have a > 1995 explorer xlt (you can search mucho threads from me here, you have > answered in some) i had a broken wire in the door harness which i > THOUGHT would fix my keyless entry probem. I have the keypad, which > doesnt work, and cycling the key does not enter programming mode. I am > led to believe then that the keyless entry module (RAP) module is > gone, but i would like to confirm this either through checking wires > for voltage/continuity, etc. DO you know how to test, how > much/difficult would it be to add the keyless entry kit, as a > quickfix, should i do an aftermarket one, and thanx muchly for your > time (and anyone else who reads this)

Response:

darn…ok, thanx jim

Response:

Question:

Maybe a short in the gauge? Perhaps you can purchase a voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket and keep it plugged in. When you get erratic dash gauge readings you can confirm if the volt tester indicates the similar readings. Alternators have large diodes to turn AC into DC and should never, ever reverse polarity on you during operation. Doing so is likely to fry all the delicate computers and electronics on the vehicle, and since that hasn’t happen, I would think its simply a gauge error. At least, with the strategy above, you can eliminate the gauge as the culprit fairly inexpensively. Good luck.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Have a similiar problem with a ‘94 except the voltage gauge tries to go > NEGATVE! > Checked voltage and is OK.  Will stay low for away then spring back to > normal. > Happens maybe once or twice a week.  Can’t think of any reason how this > could happen. > Had alternator rebult after 110K and made no difference(though just maybe, > was due anyway) > ks > While disconnecting and reconnecting the alternator connector, id you > inspect for dirty, corroded, or loose wiring connectors? Any signs of > excessive heat at the terminals? > > yep battery is cool, so are cables, i unplugged and replugged the > > connector at the alternator into the regulator, i hope that was itOn > > >Battery connections clean?  I assume the battery has been checked and > > >is ok?  Could be the battery cable(s).  They have been know to go bad > > >under the insulation so they looked good but won’t carry much current. > > >>After numerous (!!!!) problems, the explorer i bought was working > > >>great….something bad had to happen….the voltage guage was showing > > >>a discharge, not much but less than half….put gas in then very slow > > >>starting, thought nothing of it, then the discharge was right to the > > >>bottom of the guage, and after shutting it off, trying to start > > >>resulted in click click click,,,,a half hour > > >>(and a beer) later, it did start, but as the discharge got worse, the > > >>battery light started flickering, the ABS ligth was glowing, the > > >>Airbag light was on, and the check guages and check engine lights came > > >>on….it was sputtering, like it was going to stall, no power, turned > > >>intp the garage…..vroom! lit up, all was back to normal! An hour > > >>later the gremlin appeared again….sigh…..is it an alternator? Does > > >>this sound remotely familiar to anyone/ > > >>thanx in advance for any replies…. > — > Friends don’t let freinds fish for bass. > Check out the Pikemasters Mailing List at > http://www.flash.net/~mushrat/pikemasters.htm

Response:

After numerous (!!!!) problems, the explorer i bought was working great….something bad had to happen….the voltage guage was showing a discharge, not much but less than half….put gas in then very slow starting, thought nothing of it, then the discharge was right to the bottom of the guage, and after shutting it off, trying to start resulted in click click click,,,,a half hour (and a beer) later, it did start, but as the discharge got worse, the battery light started flickering, the ABS ligth was glowing, the Airbag light was on, and the check guages and check engine lights came on….it was sputtering, like it was going to stall, no power, turned intp the garage…..vroom! lit up, all was back to normal! An hour later the gremlin appeared again….sigh…..is it an alternator? Does this sound remotely familiar to anyone/ thanx in advance for any replies….

Response:

whoops!! the overdrive off light now blinks steady

Response:

My best guess would be you probably have a bad wiring connection at the alternator. Most alternator failures usually involved the large connector at the alternator, and many times, replacement of this connector/pigtail is required. > After numerous (!!!!) problems, the explorer i bought was working > great….something bad had to happen….the voltage guage was showing > a discharge, not much but less than half….put gas in then very slow > starting, thought nothing of it, then the discharge was right to the > bottom of the guage, and after shutting it off, trying to start > resulted in click click click,,,,a half hour > (and a beer) later, it did start, but as the discharge got worse, the > battery light started flickering, the ABS ligth was glowing, the > Airbag light was on, and the check guages and check engine lights came > on….it was sputtering, like it was going to stall, no power, turned > intp the garage…..vroom! lit up, all was back to normal! An hour > later the gremlin appeared again….sigh…..is it an alternator? Does > this sound remotely familiar to anyone/ > thanx in advance for any replies….

– Friends don’t let freinds fish for bass. Check out the Pikemasters Mailing List at http://www.flash.net/~mushrat/pikemasters.htm

Response:

Battery connections clean?  I assume the battery has been checked and is ok?  Could be the battery cable(s).  They have been know to go bad under the insulation so they looked good but won’t carry much current. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >After numerous (!!!!) problems, the explorer i bought was working >great….something bad had to happen….the voltage guage was showing >a discharge, not much but less than half….put gas in then very slow >starting, thought nothing of it, then the discharge was right to the >bottom of the guage, and after shutting it off, trying to start >resulted in click click click,,,,a half hour >(and a beer) later, it did start, but as the discharge got worse, the >battery light started flickering, the ABS ligth was glowing, the >Airbag light was on, and the check guages and check engine lights came >on….it was sputtering, like it was going to stall, no power, turned >intp the garage…..vroom! lit up, all was back to normal! An hour >later the gremlin appeared again….sigh…..is it an alternator? Does >this sound remotely familiar to anyone/ >thanx in advance for any replies….

Response:

yep battery is cool, so are cables, i unplugged and replugged the connector at the alternator into the regulator, i hope that was itOn – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Battery connections clean?  I assume the battery has been checked and >is ok?  Could be the battery cable(s).  They have been know to go bad >under the insulation so they looked good but won’t carry much current. >After numerous (!!!!) problems, the explorer i bought was working >great….something bad had to happen….the voltage guage was showing >a discharge, not much but less than half….put gas in then very slow >starting, thought nothing of it, then the discharge was right to the >bottom of the guage, and after shutting it off, trying to start >resulted in click click click,,,,a half hour >(and a beer) later, it did start, but as the discharge got worse, the >battery light started flickering, the ABS ligth was glowing, the >Airbag light was on, and the check guages and check engine lights came >on….it was sputtering, like it was going to stall, no power, turned >intp the garage…..vroom! lit up, all was back to normal! An hour >later the gremlin appeared again….sigh…..is it an alternator? Does >this sound remotely familiar to anyone/ >thanx in advance for any replies….

Response:

While disconnecting and reconnecting the alternator connector, id you inspect for dirty, corroded, or loose wiring connectors? Any signs of excessive heat at the terminals? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > yep battery is cool, so are cables, i unplugged and replugged the > connector at the alternator into the regulator, i hope that was itOn >Battery connections clean?  I assume the battery has been checked and >is ok?  Could be the battery cable(s).  They have been know to go bad >under the insulation so they looked good but won’t carry much current. >>After numerous (!!!!) problems, the explorer i bought was working >>great….something bad had to happen….the voltage guage was showing >>a discharge, not much but less than half….put gas in then very slow >>starting, thought nothing of it, then the discharge was right to the >>bottom of the guage, and after shutting it off, trying to start >>resulted in click click click,,,,a half hour >>(and a beer) later, it did start, but as the discharge got worse, the >>battery light started flickering, the ABS ligth was glowing, the >>Airbag light was on, and the check guages and check engine lights came >>on….it was sputtering, like it was going to stall, no power, turned >>intp the garage…..vroom! lit up, all was back to normal! An hour >>later the gremlin appeared again….sigh…..is it an alternator? Does >>this sound remotely familiar to anyone/ >>thanx in advance for any replies….

– Friends don’t let freinds fish for bass. Check out the Pikemasters Mailing List at http://www.flash.net/~mushrat/pikemasters.htm

Response:

Have a similiar problem with a ‘94 except the voltage gauge tries to go NEGATVE! Checked voltage and is OK.  Will stay low for away then spring back to normal. Happens maybe once or twice a week.  Can’t think of any reason how this could happen. Had alternator rebult after 110K and made no difference(though just maybe, was due anyway) ks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> While disconnecting and reconnecting the alternator connector, id you > inspect for dirty, corroded, or loose wiring connectors? Any signs of > excessive heat at the terminals? > yep battery is cool, so are cables, i unplugged and replugged the > connector at the alternator into the regulator, i hope that was itOn > >Battery connections clean?  I assume the battery has been checked and > >is ok?  Could be the battery cable(s).  They have been know to go bad > >under the insulation so they looked good but won’t carry much current. > >>After numerous (!!!!) problems, the explorer i bought was working > >>great….something bad had to happen….the voltage guage was showing > >>a discharge, not much but less than half….put gas in then very slow > >>starting, thought nothing of it, then the discharge was right to the > >>bottom of the guage, and after shutting it off, trying to start > >>resulted in click click click,,,,a half hour > >>(and a beer) later, it did start, but as the discharge got worse, the > >>battery light started flickering, the ABS ligth was glowing, the > >>Airbag light was on, and the check guages and check engine lights came > >>on….it was sputtering, like it was going to stall, no power, turned > >>intp the garage…..vroom! lit up, all was back to normal! An hour > >>later the gremlin appeared again….sigh…..is it an alternator? Does > >>this sound remotely familiar to anyone/ > >>thanx in advance for any replies…. > — > Friends don’t let freinds fish for bass. > Check out the Pikemasters Mailing List at > http://www.flash.net/~mushrat/pikemasters.htm

Response:

Question:

I’m usually pretty good at getting door panels off, but how do you do it on a 95 XLT?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 1995 Explorer XLT and the lock on one of my doors just stopped >working.  It’s frozen in the unlocked position.  It can’t be manually >locked. > Sounds like either the door lock actuator or the connecting rod mechanism is > jammed . You most certainly will have to take off the door panels to fix the > problem no matter what it is. However, once the door panel is off, it should > not be a big deal to fix the problem.

Response:

Every car is basically the same. Door panels are held in with  a few screws plus those plastic door panel fasteners that you have to pry off. Sometimes they get damaged as you pull them off but they are cheap and easy to get at any auto parts store. But if you are careful you should not have a problem. I have never taken one off my Explorer but every car I had in the past is usually has the same principle of door panel removal. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m usually pretty good at getting door panels off, but how do you do it on >a 95 XLT?

Response:

I have a 1995 Explorer XLT and the lock on one of my doors just stopped working.  It’s frozen in the unlocked position.  It can’t be manually locked.  The factory alarm sets even with the door unlocked.  Any suggestions on what it is and how I can fix it?

Response:

>I have a 1995 Explorer XLT and the lock on one of my doors just stopped >working.  It’s frozen in the unlocked position.  It can’t be manually >locked.  

Sounds like either the door lock actuator or the connecting rod mechanism is jammed . You most certainly will have to take off the door panels to fix the problem no matter what it is. However, once the door panel is off, it should not be a big deal to fix the problem.

Response:

Question:

just recently purchased a 1995 explorer and have been trying to check the m a f thee must be a different one on this model because of all the references i have found show a different maf anybody with any ideas or am i just overlooking it thanks for your response

Response:

> just recently purchased a 1995 explorer and have been trying to check > the m a f > thee must be a different one on this model because of all the > references i have found show a different > maf > anybody with any ideas or am i just overlooking it > thanks for your response

It’s between the air cleaner box and the throttle body on the intake manifold…

Response:

Question:

> Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one > of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT?

Why run it to the cig. lighter? forget to turn it off and it will run the battery down. Run it to the fuse box on the left side of the dash and hook it in to the radio fuse. You can buy taps made to slide ofver the fuse leg that the wire can hook to.

Response:

Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT?

Response:

I had a 90 Mustang before my 99 Sport and I wired it to the windows and grounded it to the steering column and it worked fine…haven’t had time to hook it up to the sport yet. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one > of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT? >Why run it to the cig. lighter? >forget to turn it off and it will run the battery down. >Run it to the fuse box on the left side of the dash and hook it in to >the radio fuse. >You can buy taps made to slide ofver the fuse leg that the wire can >hook to.

Response:

If you have an overhead light near the rear view mirror you can tap into the hot or switched wire.  Use Velcro strips to hold the detector to the mirror and  overhead light.  It is out of the way, high up for good detection and a neat installation – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one > of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT? > Why run it to the cig. lighter? > forget to turn it off and it will run the battery down. > Run it to the fuse box on the left side of the dash and hook it in to > the radio fuse. > You can buy taps made to slide ofver the fuse leg that the wire can > hook to.

  trock001.vcf

< 1K Download

Response:

> Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one > of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT?

There are a couple ways to do it– The easiest is to run the wire down along the molding of the windshield, on the driver’s side.  Cut the cig lighter plug part off the end, and then just attach the ground wire to a metal part of the vehicle (usually you can just loosen a screw and attach the wire to it), and attach the positive end to the fused side of the radio space in the fuse box.  This will make the radar detector come on and off with the key. There are a couple issues with that type of setup though.  First, some of the better radar detectors will draw too much power, blowing the radio fuse. This forces you to use a bigger fuse, but that may put your radio at risk. Also, the detector will turn on when you have the vehicle in ‘ACC’ position (to just listen to the radio), and that can get annoying.  The best solution is to use a 12V relay — run relay’s coil to the ignition fuse, and then use a straight 12V feed for the power to the detector. Mirage

Response:

instead of going to the cig jack, i went straight to the fuse box panel (left side of dash end next to door when door is open. Pick a accessory fuse that had power only when truck is running. Run the wire up the windshield header to hide. -Roy 95 xlt 4dr 4wd xlt with valentine 1 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one >of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT?

Response:

WHat do you think is the best thing to use use to hold/run the wire? When you say "the fused side" (forgive my ignorance) I’m not sure what you mean.  Thanks for all your help (everyone). Sean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one > of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT? >There are a couple ways to do it– >The easiest is to run the wire down along the molding of the windshield, on >the driver’s side.  Cut the cig lighter plug part off the end, and then just >attach the ground wire to a metal part of the vehicle (usually you can just >loosen a screw and attach the wire to it), and attach the positive end to >the fused side of the radio space in the fuse box.  This will make the radar >detector come on and off with the key. >There are a couple issues with that type of setup though.  First, some of >the better radar detectors will draw too much power, blowing the radio fuse. >This forces you to use a bigger fuse, but that may put your radio at risk. >Also, the detector will turn on when you have the vehicle in ‘ACC’ position >(to just listen to the radio), and that can get annoying.  The best solution >is to use a 12V relay — run relay’s coil to the ignition fuse, and then use >a straight 12V feed for the power to the detector. >Mirage

Response:

If I did it this way do I need a fuse tap or do I just piggyback it onto a fuse thats already present? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >instead of going to the cig jack, i went straight to the fuse box panel >(left side of dash end next to door when door is open. Pick a accessory fuse >that had power only when truck is running. Run the wire up the windshield >header to hide. >-Roy >95 xlt 4dr 4wd xlt with valentine 1 >Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one >of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT?

Response:

Sean– I’ll summarize what others have written, with some little details that might help you. Stereo and alarm shops have the taps for the fuse panel.  I’ll warn folks who use these taps that they are wonderful, handy, clean, safe, etc… but once you install one, leave it installed forever.  The part that inserts into the fuse holder with the existing fuse will spread the fingers of the socket enough that just a single tab from the fuse may not make a good connection.  So once it’s in, it’s part of the car. The wire that comes with the radar detector is smaller than the radio fuse rating will normally accomodate.  It’s good practice to put a dedicated fuse in that line.  Many lighter-plug adapters have fuses installed.  Since you are going to wire direct, you may want to add that protection back in. The wire from the fuse panel runs behind the kick panel at the parking brake, up the plastic door trim, and behind the plastic molding inside the windshield pillar.  If you don’t have the overhead console,  you can snake the wire across above the headliner to one of the sunvisor clips, where you can bring the end out to where the detector will go. The end of the cable gets thrown on top of the upper visor when the car is parked and the detector is removed. And, last but not least, while this is a fairly simple project,  the little bits that make a clean installation may not be in your parts drawers already.  You may find that the best way to go is to have the stereo/alarm installer run the wire for you.  It will take them minutes while you may spend a couple hours getting parts and routing the cable right.  Certainly worth looking into in my opinion. dr bob wrote something like: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one > of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT? >There are a couple ways to do it– >The easiest is to run the wire down along the molding of the windshield, on >the driver’s side.  Cut the cig lighter plug part off the end, and then just >attach the ground wire to a metal part of the vehicle (usually you can just >loosen a screw and attach the wire to it), and attach the positive end to >the fused side of the radio space in the fuse box.  This will make the radar >detector come on and off with the key. >There are a couple issues with that type of setup though.  First, some of >the better radar detectors will draw too much power, blowing the radio fuse. >This forces you to use a bigger fuse, but that may put your radio at risk. >Also, the detector will turn on when you have the vehicle in ‘ACC’ position >(to just listen to the radio), and that can get annoying.  The best solution >is to use a 12V relay — run relay’s coil to the ignition fuse, and then use >a straight 12V feed for the power to the detector. >Mirage

Response:

What I did was to mount the detector to the left side of the windshield mirror, cut the cig plug off, ran the wire behind the molding in front of and above the sunscreen, took it back out in the corner where the sunscreen is mounted with 2 screws, took the screen off and tapped into the mirror light wire in the sunscreen. Very slick  and invisible, and the detector tuns off after abt. 2-3 minutes when you leave the truck. Good luck — Tor Langvand Torlo Solutions http://torlo.dynip.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone know a quick and easy way to hard wire my radar detector to one > of the cigarette lighter jacks in my 1995 Explorer XLT?

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Question:

> I have the Auto-A/C controller for a 1995 Explorer (is for automatic climate > control systems only). It will not work in 91 to 94 – it’s only for 95 and > up.

Is there any way that it could be made to work in a 91-94?  What would be involved in a project like this? thanks Mike 92 XLT 4×4

Response:

I have both upper and lower front seat covers from a 1995 Eddie Bauer. They are in excellent shape and are green leather. The seat covers are from the "sport bucket" style seats with the pullout cushion at the back of the knees. I have the pull-out cushion part of the seats as well. They are all original and the molded foam inserts are inside.  They have "Eddie Bauer" stitched/embroidered into the seat backs.  If anyone needs these, let me know. I also have the factory 6-1/2" sub-woofer speaker with enclosure, and the sub-woofer amp – from the same truck. I was planning to install it in my truck, but decided to get a different system that has a bigger subwoofer, so this one for sale. For those of you with a non-subwoofer system, I will include the adapter and a wiring diagram that allows the subwoofer to connect to your existing speaker outputs. This should fit in any 91-98 Explorer. It has the everything you need to install it – even the speaker grill. I have the main AMP for a 1995 Explorer with the JBL stereo – this fits the radio that has the radio controls also on the back of the center console. This fits 95 and up only. I have all four door speakers also for the JBL audio system – fit 91 to 98 Explorers. I have the Auto-A/C controller for a 1995 Explorer (is for automatic climate control systems only). It will not work in 91 to 94 – it’s only for 95 and up. All of these items are working. If anyone needs any of these items, send me an e-mail and I’ll give you more details with the price.

Response:

How much do you want for the subwoofer / amp setup? I have a 97 Sport. It’s got the standard audio system, with the 6 disc CD changer in the center console. I have been considering adding a sub. price, & if you think I could install this in my truck. Thanks, Scott

:I have both upper and lower front seat covers from a 1995 Eddie Bauer. They :are in excellent shape and are green leather. The seat covers are from the :"sport bucket" style seats with the pullout cushion at the back of the :knees. I have the pull-out cushion part of the seats as well. They are all riginal and the molded foam inserts are inside.  They have "Eddie Bauer" :stitched/embroidered into the seat backs.  If anyone needs these, let me :know. : :I also have the factory 6-1/2" sub-woofer speaker with enclosure, and the :sub-woofer amp – from the same truck. I was planning to install it in my :truck, but decided to get a different system that has a bigger subwoofer, so :this one for sale. For those of you with a non-subwoofer system, I will :include the adapter and a wiring diagram that allows the subwoofer to :connect to your existing speaker outputs. This should fit in any 91-98 :Explorer. It has the everything you need to install it – even the speaker :grill. : :I have the main AMP for a 1995 Explorer with the JBL stereo – this fits the :radio that has the radio controls also on the back of the center console. :This fits 95 and up only. : :I have all four door speakers also for the JBL audio system – fit 91 to 98 :Explorers. : :I have the Auto-A/C controller for a 1995 Explorer (is for automatic climate :control systems only). It will not work in 91 to 94 – it’s only for 95 and :up. : :All of these items are working. If anyone needs any of these items, send me :an e-mail and I’ll give you more details with the price. : : : : :

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Question:

If anyone knows where someone can get decent prices on Ford indash CD Players, please let me know.. Louis Harle

Response:

If you are interested in an after-market stereo, you can get one from a company called "Crutchfield" and it is a very good fit to the existing dash opening and and exact fit to your wiring. You can find them at WWW.CRUTCHFIELD.COM. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >If anyone knows where someone can get decent prices on Ford indash CD >Players, please let me know.. >Louis Harle

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I’ve got one out of a 98 that I’m willing to sell. Used for about 2 weeks before I put an aftermarket in.  If the dash is the same, it should fit. Make an offer. Rgds, Jeff W. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >If anyone knows where someone can get decent prices on Ford indash CD >Players, please let me know.. >Louis Harle

Response:

Jeff, Out of curiosity, which aftermarket cd did you go with and why? Thx, Jeffn – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve got one out of a 98 that I’m willing to sell. Used for about 2 weeks > before I put an aftermarket in.  If the dash is the same, it should fit. > Make an offer. > Rgds, > Jeff W. >If anyone knows where someone can get decent prices on Ford indash CD >Players, please let me know.. >Louis Harle

Response:

I used a Pioneer, for 2 reasons.  One, the fm sensitivity is far better than the stock radio-stations stay tuned better than before.  I live 1/2 way between Philly and New York so sometimes fm reception is not all that great on smaller stations.  Second, it has 35w x 4 channels making a **large** improvement on the sound quality.  I first tried better speakers on the stock radio and they sounded ok.  When I added the Pioneer, they sounded great.  There’s just no substitute for power when it comes to audio systems. Of course, 100 or 200 watts would probably give you more cranking sound, but mine is adequate. Rgds, Jeff

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Question:

You let your girlfriend drive your Explorer?!?!

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Well we recently became engaged…. It was either that or let her continue driving her death-trap 1988 Bronco II.  Everything was rusted out, including the gas tank which you could smell.  A fireball waiting to happen. Thos. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > You let your girlfriend drive your Explorer?!?!

Response:

It’s all one part … $700.00 + for a new tailgate or take it to a body shop for dent removal and new paint. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …but not on purpose, of course. > Somehow while backing up, she dented the passenger side vertical section > of the black colored frame around the tailgate window.  Since the dent > is five feet above the ground, I figure she must have hit the corner of > a dumpster or a pipe protruding from a building. > It isn’t serious enough that it effects the fuctionality of the > tailgate.  It just rates an 8.5 on the annoying factor. > Anyway, if I decide to fix it, does anyone know how costly it will be to > replace?  In other words, is the frame and tailgate one whole part, or > is the frame something that can be replaced relatively inexpensively? > (less than a $500 insurance deductible) > If it is too expensive to warrant fixing, does anyone have suggestions > on how to keep the dent from rusting?  The covering on the frame looks > more like some kind plastic coating rather than paint. > In any case, it’s a green 1995 Explorer Sport 4×4 and any suggestions > are appreciated. > Regards, > Thos.

– Visit the All Around Gymnastics Academy Website at http://www.gate.net/~esdill

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…but not on purpose, of course. Somehow while backing up, she dented the passenger side vertical section of the black colored frame around the tailgate window.  Since the dent is five feet above the ground, I figure she must have hit the corner of a dumpster or a pipe protruding from a building. It isn’t serious enough that it effects the fuctionality of the tailgate.  It just rates an 8.5 on the annoying factor. Anyway, if I decide to fix it, does anyone know how costly it will be to replace?  In other words, is the frame and tailgate one whole part, or is the frame something that can be replaced relatively inexpensively? (less than a $500 insurance deductible) If it is too expensive to warrant fixing, does anyone have suggestions on how to keep the dent from rusting?  The covering on the frame looks more like some kind plastic coating rather than paint. In any case, it’s a green 1995 Explorer Sport 4×4 and any suggestions are appreciated. Regards, Thos.

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Question:

I have a 1995 Explorer.  A couple of months ago the right channel on the tape player stopped working.  Works fine though through the radio. I had heard this is a common problem and was wondering, short of replacing it, if there was a way to fix it. The dealer wanted like $500 to replace it!!  The thing sucks.  I could get much better than that for like half that price. Thanx for any input. Larry

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I can’t help you on this problem, but I am having the same problem.  My tape player also flips the tape at any arbitrary point, whenever it wants.  It won’t work with my discman tape adapter, and sometimes it won’t even turn off.  It stinks, especailly since the dealer wants about $700 to replace the damn thing.

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It amazes me what pieces of crap these things are.  You can buy a new head unit with an installation kit with a better amp and tape unit for about $150. In fact, Crutchfield has a fairly nice Panasonic for $149 this month on their front page. Ice > I can’t help you on this problem, but I am having the same problem.  My > tape player also flips the tape at any arbitrary point, whenever it > wants.  It won’t work with my discman tape adapter, and sometimes it > won’t even turn off.  It stinks, especailly since the dealer wants about > $700 to replace the damn thing.

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