Question:

I’m pretty sure that the stock injectors are 19#s.  You will have to get an aftermarket Mass Air Flow sensor calibrated for the 24# injectors.  The fuel pump souldn’t affect how it runs, it only supplys the gas.  I have a 155lph pump in my 4.0 Ranger and it doesn’t affect it a bit.  Check with Vortec for a new MAF sensor. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->          I also installed 24 lbs >    injectors and a larger fuel pump, but they had to be removed because they >    would cause the car to stall.  After switching back to the stock injectors and >    a new stock fuel pump, the engine runs.  

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        Has anybody installed a Paxton Supercharger on a 1995 Explorer?  I have         recently added one to my Limited.  Other modifications include pulleys, K&N         air filter, Borla exhaust, and a  larger throttle body.  I also installed 24 lbs         injectors and a larger fuel pump, but they had to be removed because they         would cause the car to stall.  After switching back to the stock injectors and         a new stock fuel pump, the engine runs.  The problem that I am having is that         sometimes around corners, the car will stall.  Also when first starting the engine,         you have to crack it a little longer.  After about 15 minutes of driving the car, the         check engine light comes on.  I am no mechanic and I had somebody do the         work for me.  This is how he lef tme with the car.  I do not know of any other         high performace mechanics in the area.  Could somebody please point me in         the right direction.  I really do not want to drive the car with a check engine light.         Also, the mechanis claims that the stock injectors are 30 lbs injectors.  Could         this be possible?  Any help would be greatly appreciated!  For the 15 minutes         that I get to drive the car, it is AWESOME!  The car is very streetable and it         really moves when the rpms is up there.  If not for these problems, I would         highly recommend it.

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Question:

Hello Explorerites, Two question I hope someone can clear up: I have a 1995 Explorer XL 4WD Control Trac 4DR 1-  The 4wd switch-  Can I drive the truck in 4wd Auto for extended periods.  I know the 4wd Low should only be used when needed.  I normally drive in 2wd but the heavy rains and snow are beginning to threaten the area again and I have never owned a 4wd vehicle.  If I instruct my wife to put in 4wd Auto in light snow, will I be buying a new tranny in spring? 2-  The fuel gauge???  I have a 21 gallon tank.  Last week I filled it up just when the ‘check gauge’ light came on.  20.24 gallons of fuel and 235 miles.  This morning I ran the car well into the empty range and it only took 17.67 gallons and 243 miles.  What’s going on?  Is this just a totally unreliable gauge?  It does not fluctuate at all when driving. It is steady on braking and accelleration. Thanks Mike Herman

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I should also mention that the truck only has 23400 miles on it Mike

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re: fuel guage… on my ‘95 XLT w/ 21 gallon tank, when the "Check Guage" light comes on, it usually will take ~18 gallons.  I assume I still have that remaining 3 gallons in it but I haven’t really tested it. > Two question I hope someone can clear up: > I have a 1995 Explorer XL 4WD Control Trac 4DR > 1-

snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2-  The fuel gauge???  I have a 21 gallon tank.  Last week I filled it > up just when the ‘check gauge’ light came on.  20.24 gallons of fuel and > 235 miles.  This morning I ran the car well into the empty range and it > only took 17.67 gallons and 243 miles.  What’s going on?  Is this just a > totally unreliable gauge?  It does not fluctuate at all when driving. > It is steady on braking and accelleration. > Thanks > Mike Herman

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Question:

Thanks for the reply….I am beginning to understand. I’m used to ol’ fashioned four wheel drive or no four drive. Thanks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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I have recently purchased a 1995 Explorer XLT w/ the Control Trac System. I am waiting for the owners manual to learn about my vehicle, but it is taking too long.  Can someone explain to me what the difference is between the standard 4×4 that I am familiar with and the Control Trac features? Thank You, Kevin

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> I have recently purchased a 1995 Explorer XLT w/ the Control Trac System. > I am waiting for the owners manual to learn about my vehicle, but it is > taking too long.  Can someone explain to me what the difference is between > the standard 4×4 that I am familiar with and the Control Trac features? > Thank You, > Kevin

The Control Trac 4×4 feature senses the difference in speed between the rear driveshaft and the front wheels (beyond the normal differential difference in speed).  There is a driveshaft RPM sensor at the rear differential.  When the difference in speed goes above a certain threshold (indicating that one or both rear tires are just starting to spin), an electromechanical clutch in the transfer case (right behind the transmission) begins to apply power to the front driveshaft, thus driving the front wheels.  When you are pulled out of trouble and the speed between front and rear wheels is back to normal, the clutch disengages.  I read that the system applies power in 10% increments, up to 100% if needed (I suppose you could need this if your rear tires are hanging off a cliff !). The mechanism is an interesting assemblage of three balls and a circular ramp arrangement.  As the clutch sleeve is rotated electromechanically, the balls tighten up against their ramps, thus forcing a series of clutch plates together which engage the front driveshaft.  It’s also interesting to note that power for the front driveshaft comes from a large metal chain in the transfer case, powered off the shaft coming from the transmission.   The 4WD Low function is more like standard 4WD, where the front and rear driveshafts are always engaged together to really get you out of a muddy/snowy/icy mess.   I use this mode to pull the truck onto ramps to change the oil.  Have to watch so you don’t drive off the tall end of the ramps.   Mike <><><><><><>  WITNESS – Process Simulation and Modeling Software <><><><><>  Lanner Group, Inc.  31225 Bainbridge Rd.  Solon, OH 44139   www.lanner.com  Human: 216-519-1200         Fax: 216-519-1243         Amateur Radio KB8RJO <><><><><><><><><>   Good * Cheap * Quick  (pick any two)   <><><><><><><><>

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Question:

The absence of sway bars for ‘95 and newer Explorers is due to the upgraded factory suspension. The newer Explorers already have the thicker sway bars.

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I equipped my former 1992 Explorer with Bilstein Shocks and IPD Sway Bars and was thrilled with the improvement in handling. Question:   Though I plan on soon adding Bilstein’s to my 1995 Explorer, I have –not- – seen any sway bars offered for this vehicle. Is this due to the SLA front suspension that was introduced that year, or simply that the market has not evolved? Stay Safe! Brian Humphrey Santa Susana, CA

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Question:

I think there was a post on this subject a while ago but I don’t remember. I have a noticeable tilt with the vehicle when I park on a level surface.  All my tire are at the same pressure, so all should be normally balanced when parked on an even grade. Is there a laypersons fix for this, another words, can I fix this myself, or do I have to take it in for whatever it is? Thanks to anyone who can help. Joel Rosenblum Toronto, ON 1995 Explorer XLT

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>I think there was a post on this subject a while ago but I don’t remember. >I have a noticeable tilt with the vehicle when I park on a level surface.  All >my tire are at the same pressure, so all should be normally balanced when parked >on an even grade. >Is there a laypersons fix for this, another words, can I fix this myself, or do >I have to take it in for whatever it is? >Thanks to anyone who can help.

Joel: Got the torsion bar front suspension?  The maximium lean is 5/8" difference between front heights, measured at the wheelwell lip.  At the rear, it’s 3/4"  Don’t ask why they are different; common (good) sense tells us that the front is attached rigidly to the rear, so the lean should be the same unless the body is tweaked.  And maybe it is! Anyway, if you find that your car is leaning while parked with a half tank of gas on level ground, adjust the torsion bars in the front to level it out.  If the car drives straight down the road now, make just enough adjustment so it’s within spec.  If you have to move it a lot, have the alignment checked when you’re done. There’s a warranty issue on your ‘95 here.  If it’s out of spec, have the dealer look at it before you start working on it.  They might help you keep your hands clean. Good Luck! dr bob

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Question:

The springs underneath the cushions on the bucket seats of my 1996 Explorer XLT (cloth covering not leather) squeak occasionally and annoyingly.  Have never gotten them wet or anything.  They are totally Scotchgarded.  Any suggestions on a solution?  Thanks. Dorkdorf

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> The springs underneath the cushions on the bucket seats of my 1996 > Explorer XLT (cloth covering not leather) squeak occasionally and > annoyingly.  Have never gotten them wet or anything.  They are totally > Scotchgarded.  Any suggestions on a solution?  Thanks. > Dorkdorf

We had a problem with our passenger seat (1995 Explorer XLT) popping and squeaking.  The dealership installed a new spring kit (under warranty) and everything is fine now.

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I have the same problem from time to time.  The seats in my 94 Exp.XLT have a air pump in the bottom and also for the back to adjust the firmness of the seat.  I tend to perfer a rather firm car seat.  If the seat is not firm, it sqeaks. Hope this helps.

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<have a air pump in the bottom and also for the back> Respite, I’ll try firming up the seat bottom with that "thighsqueezer" thingamajig.  I see the point of the lumbar support pump-up, but have never really used the lower one since I could never figure out the point or are my thighs so incredibly fat that I just don’t get it? Dorkdorf

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Loose Weight?

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> Loose Weight?

Use tie-downs.

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Question:

I, too, encounter the same 3 degree F difference. On top of that, if I idle for over 30 min. my temperature reading changes into "5C." I’d spoken to my friendly service advisor at the dealership and he had no idea at all. Plus no documentation was able to unsolve the mystery….Anyone? Charles Ho 96 XLT V8 2WD – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 96 Explorer XLT 4×2 with the electronic compass & thermometer over > the rearview mirror.  I have read about callibrating the compass but can’t > find anything about the thermometer. > Mine reads 3 degrees higher then the actual temperature, based on all the > theremometers I see on banks, advertising signs etc etc. > Anyone else have this problem and how did you fix it? > — > Web:  http://www1.linkonline.net/johnm/progeny.htm

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The sensor for the thermometer is in front of the radiator.  On a hot day it will take a little time for the temp to register true.  As far as accuracy, I wouldn’t trust bank signs any more than my car’s thermometer.  It seems pretty accurate but a few degrees difference from a few bank signs seems like splitting hairs.  If you really want to measure accuracy I suppose you could place a good quality recording thermometer in the grill and see how they compare.  Just my $.02. Shawn Bryan 1995 Explorer Limited – Love it! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I had the same problem. However, it seems to have corrected itself > more or less. Mine also started out about 3 degrees higher, but now is > pretty much dead on. This is after about 3 months/4000 miles. I don’t > know how long it will last. I am interested if anyone has a positive > suggestion. I have noticed that it takes 5-10 minutes to get an > accurate reading, especially when parked in the sun. I wonder if > bright sun on tinted windshield causes enough absorption to bias > reading. Now that summer is over, seems to work better. Other > explanation is that reading is really non-linear in which case, I > expect to see _really_ low temps this winter.

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I have a 96 Explorer XLT 4×2 with the electronic compass & thermometer over the rearview mirror.  I have read about callibrating the compass but can’t find anything about the thermometer. Mine reads 3 degrees higher then the actual temperature, based on all the theremometers I see on banks, advertising signs etc etc. Anyone else have this problem and how did you fix it? — Web:  http://www1.linkonline.net/johnm/progeny.htm

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>I have a 96 Explorer XLT 4×2 with the electronic compass & thermometer over >the rearview mirror.  I have read about callibrating the compass but can’t >find anything about the thermometer. >Mine reads 3 degrees higher then the actual temperature, based on all the >theremometers I see on banks, advertising signs etc etc. >Anyone else have this problem and how did you fix it?

I wouldn’t be too surprised if the Exp. thermometer does read high, since unlike some other vehicles, my Exp. thermom. seems to update the temperature at fixed time intervals regardless of distance traveled, speed, etc. Hence its thermometer could be to be significantly influenced by the heat of the engine compartment (and always tend to read somewhat high) except after several minutes driving at constant, moderate speeds (at least 20 mph?). On the other hand, my Probe’s system requires such an unreasonable combination of distance/speed driven before the thermometer will update the temperature, that it never happens! I can ride around town *all day long* and never see anything other than the same temperature it recorded in the morning when started. A real joke! I don’t know if there’s a way to calibrate the Exp. thermometer, but you may find it actually is fairly accurate except for the stop-and-go driving conditions. At least you get a reading within 3 degrees of actual. It could be worse ;^) Phil Rose

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I had the same problem. However, it seems to have corrected itself more or less. Mine also started out about 3 degrees higher, but now is pretty much dead on. This is after about 3 months/4000 miles. I don’t know how long it will last. I am interested if anyone has a positive suggestion. I have noticed that it takes 5-10 minutes to get an accurate reading, especially when parked in the sun. I wonder if bright sun on tinted windshield causes enough absorption to bias reading. Now that summer is over, seems to work better. Other explanation is that reading is really non-linear in which case, I expect to see _really_ low temps this winter. >I have a 96 Explorer XLT 4×2 with the electronic compass & thermometer over >the rearview mirror.  I have read about callibrating the compass but can’t >find anything about the thermometer. >Mine reads 3 degrees higher then the actual temperature, based on all the >theremometers I see on banks, advertising signs etc etc. >Anyone else have this problem and how did you fix it? >– >Web:  http://www1.linkonline.net/johnm/progeny.htm

Jack Hensley

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Ah, I am a bit confused here!  I was under the impression per the owners >manual that I had a 3 speed automatic transmission with overdrive giving me >a total 4 gears.  Ah, when I have overdrive OFF the transmission will >upshift a total of 4 times.  I can press on the gas slightly and feel it >upshit, (to 3rd) and then press on it real hard and it will up shift again >(to second). >I can also feel the mild up-shift on overdrive and can tell it does have 5 >gears!!! >Ok, have I lost my mind?  Can this be real?  I have tested it several times >and it still comes out the same.  I know the OD switch is working as when I >start off with OD off and feel it upshift from 1st to 4th I can press the >OD switch and feel it shift again.  I also see it on the tach. >So whats the story?  Is this a 5 speed or what? >Steve > I don’t think so.  You are feeling the lockup torque converter locking > and unlocking.  When the TC locks the rpms will drop around 100 rpm. > When the OD engages the rpms will drop around 500 rpm.

I agree.  This additional "shift" feeling is the torque converter locking. You could also look at it this way:  since the shift to overdrive and the converter lockup each give you an additional drop in engine speed, you are effectively getting additional engine speed to wheel speed ratios, which are analogous to gear ratios. The other interesting thing to point out is that with the OD disabled, the torque converter can still lock.  This provides one additional ratio that is somewhere between 3rd gear and OD.  This provides 6 ratios to choose from which can be very handy when towing on highways that have a range of hill grades. 1st gear 2nd gear 3rd gear 3rd gear w/lockup OverDrive OD w/lockup – Eric Kohler 1995 Explorer Expedition

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Ah, I am a bit confused here!  I was under the impression per the owners manual that I had a 3 speed automatic transmission with overdrive giving me a total 4 gears.  Ah, when I have overdrive OFF the transmission will upshift a total of 4 times.  I can press on the gas slightly and feel it upshit, (to 3rd) and then press on it real hard and it will up shift again (to second). I can also feel the mild up-shift on overdrive and can tell it does have 5 gears!!! Ok, have I lost my mind?  Can this be real?  I have tested it several times and it still comes out the same.  I know the OD switch is working as when I start off with OD off and feel it upshift from 1st to 4th I can press the OD switch and feel it shift again.  I also see it on the tach. So whats the story?  Is this a 5 speed or what? Steve

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Ah, I am a bit confused here!  I was under the impression per the owners >manual that I had a 3 speed automatic transmission with overdrive giving me >a total 4 gears.  Ah, when I have overdrive OFF the transmission will >upshift a total of 4 times.  I can press on the gas slightly and feel it >upshit, (to 3rd) and then press on it real hard and it will up shift again >(to second). >I can also feel the mild up-shift on overdrive and can tell it does have 5 >gears!!! >Ok, have I lost my mind?  Can this be real?  I have tested it several times >and it still comes out the same.  I know the OD switch is working as when I >start off with OD off and feel it upshift from 1st to 4th I can press the >OD switch and feel it shift again.  I also see it on the tach. >So whats the story?  Is this a 5 speed or what? >Steve

I don’t think so.  You are feeling the lockup torque converter locking and unlocking.  When the TC locks the rpms will drop around 100 rpm. When the OD engages the rpms will drop around 500 rpm.

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