While this is a viable diagnostic step in older models, we need to be careful about relay swapping in later models. Ford has developed a taste for "piggy-backing" relays….. i.e, one relay will operate a device and, at the same time, turn on another relay. I’ve seen more than one person bitten by this scenario when they swap two relays and the device still wont work… Best case scenario would be to try one from a donor vehicle….. all the relays are cross platform so any friend or relative with a similar year vehicle….. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->  Is your "Fuel Reset" indicator light >illuminated on your instrument panel?  If so, try reseting the switch >located in the jack compartment. > And if that is ok, try swapping out the fuel pump relay under the hood with > another relay to see if that solves the problem.

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>  Is your "Fuel Reset" indicator light >illuminated on your instrument panel?  If so, try reseting the switch >located in the jack compartment.

And if that is ok, try swapping out the fuel pump relay under the hood with another relay to see if that solves the problem.

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> Does anyone know where the fuel pump is on a 1996 Explorer? > I am assuming that this is why my truck refused to start this morning. > The only thing different I noticed when I tried to start my truck this > morning is absence of the hum I hear when I engage the ignition switch.  I > assume this hum is the fuel pump engaging.

Your assumption is reasonable, but only up to the point where you start pulling parts off and replacing them.  Before you get to that point, you need to actually troubleshoot the problem.  The pump itself may be fine, but there may be a failed relay, a broken wire, or some other component in the circuit that powers/controls the pump that is causing it to not run. Before I would dig into the fuel tank to replace the pump, I would measure the voltage going into the pump to make sure 12V is there.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know where the fuel pump is on a 1996 Explorer? >I am assuming that this is why my truck refused to start this morning. >The only thing different I noticed when I tried to start my truck this >morning is absence of the hum I hear when I engage the ignition switch.  I >assume this hum is the fuel pump engaging. > Your assumption is reasonable, but only up to the point where you start > pulling parts off and replacing them.  Before you get to that point, you > need to actually troubleshoot the problem.  The pump itself may be fine, > but there may be a failed relay, a broken wire, or some other component in > the circuit that powers/controls the pump that is causing it to not run. > Before I would dig into the fuel tank to replace the pump, I would > measure the voltage going into the pump to make sure 12V is there.

In addition to Mark’s information… Is it possible someone bumped, jarred, or collided with your vehicle causing the fuel pump safety shut-off switch to activate?  Is your "Fuel Reset" indicator light illuminated on your instrument panel?  If so, try reseting the switch located in the jack compartment. Good luck, Steven

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Does anyone know where the fuel pump is on a 1996 Explorer? I am assuming that this is why my truck refused to start this morning. The only thing different I noticed when I tried to start my truck this morning is absence of the hum I hear when I engage the ignition switch.  I assume this hum is the fuel pump engaging.

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Hello – looking at getting a fuel pump replaced on a 1996 Eddie Bauer V8 Explorer – just curious what amount of labor time is fair on it… how long it takes, etc – what does it cost?

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about 2 hours, the part was around fifty and whatever labor is.

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Hi, I have a 1996 Explorer AWD V-8, and the outside temp gauge is starting to give erratic readings this summer.  Sometimes it reads ICE and -40

Hello I need the wiring diagram for a 1996 explorer send me to my mail or show me url thanks

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I don’t know of any publicly available circuit diagrams on line but you might try http://www.alldata.com/index.html . There are a lot of pages to the wiring diagrams so I would think that anyone with the space to host them is going to expect some sort of recompense. You can purchase the factory authorized manuals from http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?Style=&mscsid=ATRMBWHGNX5D9L… (try http://tinyurl.com/2qh99 if that got scewed up in your reader) – these would contain the exact same info we use at the dealership. If you have a specific problem, I can try to help you but the matrial I have at my disposal is copyrighted and, as such, I can’t copy or distribute it. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello > I need the wiring diagram for a 1996 explorer > send me to my mail or show me url > thanks

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1996 Explorer Does anybody have any info/tips on R&R of the cruise control switches located on the steering wheel? Anything to look out for, such as air bag, etc? thanks

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It’s easy to remove the Cruise control switches. 1st disconnect the battery to prevent the airbags from accidently deploying. Next the airbag is bolted to the steering wheel by two 8mm bolt on either side of the wheel. You’ll access the bolt from under the steering wheel. Unbolt both bolts and move the airbag casing out of the way. You’ll notice the Cruise Control switches are SCREWED into the steering wheel by two screws. Unscrew the switches, disconnect the electrical connections and pronto.. U R finish. Replace the switch and as they say, installing is the opposite of removing.. TIME.. 5 mins TOPS!!! GOODLUCK… PS.. get a switch from the Junkyard….Sorry.. SALVAGE Yard!!!  :-)

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On my 1996 Explorer, the 4wd and 4wd low indicators have started flashing.  When I flip the switch to 4WD, the indicator does not come on, but I can hear the clicks and clunks associated with the transfer case, and I can hear the additional noise from the drivetrain.  After a little while, both the 4wd and low lights start flashing irregularly.  If I turn the engine off and then back on, the 4wd indicator will remain lit solidly.  I beat the truck on snowy roads the other day in this condition and could not get the indicators to flash.  Disengage 4wd, re-engage, and the symptoms reappear. 4WD low behaves similarly, only in this mode, if I turn the engine off and back on, the indicator will light correctly as in 4wd-auto, but then both indicators start flashing after a short distance. I’ve read the various posts in this newsgroup regarding hall sensors, and the switching motor…does this problem sound related? It’s scheduled to go into the dealer on Monday, but I’d like to have some helpful "suggestions" for them… Thanks, Cameron.

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my 2000 4wd did the same thing for a long time, but it didn’t seem to hurt anything. after i replaced the battery it stopped for some reason.

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my 2000 explorer did the same thing, and after i replaced the battery it seemed to be fixed.  now the indicators only come on when i put the truck in 4wd.

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unhook the battery about 5mins then hook back up should be ok          good luck

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I read that you have scheduled an appointment for your Explorer.  We have the same problem with our 1997 XLT.  We have taken it to a mechanic, who has replced the switch and battery.  This seem to work for a while, but it has returned!  We have 141K and I do not know hoe much money we are talking about in repairing this problem.  Everything else seems fine and the car is still solid.  Please allow me to know your experience, costs, and outcome.  If the job is costly, we are considering buying another car, but we’d like to get another year out of it, if possible.

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We replaced the battery on our 1997, and the problem went away for awhile and recently returned.

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> I read that you have scheduled an appointment for your Explorer.  We

have the same problem with our 1997 XLT.  We have taken it to a mechanic, who has replced the switch and battery.  This seem to work for a while, but it has returned!  We have 141K and I do not know hoe much money we are talking about in repairing this problem.  Everything else seems fine and the car is still solid.  Please allow me to know your experience, costs, and outcome.  If the job is costly, we are considering buying another car, but we’d like to get another year out of it, if possible. It turned out to be the rear speed sensor in the transfer case.  It cost $100 to replace including parts and labor.  Apparently, the indicators flashing can indicate problems with the speed sensors, the GEM computer, or the shift motor.  There may be other things that could also cause this condition.

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I have a diagnostic appoint scheduled with the dealer on Friday.  That’s $70.00, so I am hoping we have the same situation like you and it is inexpensive.  Thanks so much!

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I had same problem on our 1996 XLT.  Turns out it was simply dirty front and rear speed sensors.  A good mechanic would remove them and clean them if they’re dirty, and test.  If problem doesn’t return, then you are not out $100 per new sensor.   Watch that they don’t sell you new sensors when wiping the metal debris from the original sensor is all that may be needed. It is also certainly possible that a sensor is actually bad, and not just dirty (like mine were).  In which case, of course it would have to be replaced. I only mention this since I’ve seen a lot of postings of replacing batteries and replacing sensors, and the possibility of that not being necessary if the culprit is just a dirty sensor.  Begs the question as to why replacing the battery would temporarily solve the problem (because replacing the battery resets the computer, which takes time to relearn things). My 2 cents. Mike

> I have a diagnostic appoint scheduled with the dealer on Friday.  That’s

$70.00, so I am hoping we have the same situation like you and it is inexpensive.  Thanks so much! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Here goes, 1996 explorer sport, when the 4.0 v6 cools off, the vacuum in the cooling system does not get relieved thru the radiator cap. The radiator  hoses collapse under the suction when cold. Changed the cap, checked the overflow for restrictions, the coolant comes out into the reservoir, but doesn’t go back in.  The thermostat is only about a year old, any suggestions? Thanks. Dave

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>Here goes, 1996 explorer sport, when the 4.0 v6 cools off, the vacuum >in the cooling system does not get relieved thru the radiator cap. The >radiator  hoses collapse under the suction when cold. >Changed the cap, checked the overflow for restrictions, the coolant >comes out into the reservoir, but doesn’t go back in. > The thermostat is only about a year old, any suggestions? >Thanks. >Dave

If those are the original hoses, it may be time for them to be replaced. Old hoses can collapse under very little vacuum. Otherwise, I’d try another cap. If the rest of the overflow system is known good, and the hoses are good, it’s probably a faulty cap. — Bill Funk replace "g" with "a"

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Thanks for the response, but as I said the cap is new, the hoses and thermostat and radiator all less than a year old. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Here goes, 1996 explorer sport, when the 4.0 v6 cools off, the vacuum >in the cooling system does not get relieved thru the radiator cap. The >radiator  hoses collapse under the suction when cold. >Changed the cap, checked the overflow for restrictions, the coolant >comes out into the reservoir, but doesn’t go back in. > The thermostat is only about a year old, any suggestions? >Thanks. >Dave > If those are the original hoses, it may be time for them to be > replaced. Old hoses can collapse under very little vacuum. > Otherwise, I’d try another cap. > If the rest of the overflow system is known good, and the hoses are > good, it’s probably a faulty cap.

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>Thanks for the response, but as I said the cap is new, the hoses and >thermostat and radiator all less than a year old.

If all other components check out OK, the cap is the likely culprit. Being new is not a guarantee of being good. Have you dismantled the overflow system, and checked for blockages? — Bill Funk replace "g" with "a"

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> Thanks for the response, but as I said the cap is new, the hoses and > thermostat and radiator all less than a year old.

Try this as a test: Leave the cap on the overflow tank loose, warm the engine up to full temp and then turn it off and allow it to cool.  If the hoses no longer collapse as before then the problem is indeed the (new) cap.  It should allow air intake under vacuum (but hold pressure up to a preset release point (12 psi?). -Fred W

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I was just looking in my 1996 Explorer and the steering column under the hood has this ball joint part that is covered by a boot, for some reason my boot has busted in half leaving only a small shard of it on there.  Is there any sort of replacement part, how easy is it to replace?

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I have same thing on our 96 explorer as well.  Mechanic told me not to worry about it since it’s not a hi-speed linkage, and is already basically protected.  Still, I’d like to replace that boot but have not found wher to get one or how to replace it.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I was just looking in my 1996 Explorer and the steering column under the > hood has this ball joint part that is covered by a boot, for some reason my > boot has busted in half leaving only a small shard of it on there.  Is there > any sort of replacement part, how easy is it to replace?

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Well might as well leave it then.  I am sure that a guy could get some sort of shock boot from a motorcycle store and cut a slit in it and zip tie to the joint.  I am going to just leave it. I didn’t think it was a big deal.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have same thing on our 96 explorer as well.  Mechanic told me not to worry > about it since it’s not a hi-speed linkage, and is already basically > protected.  Still, I’d like to replace that boot but have not found wher to > get one or how to replace it. > I was just looking in my 1996 Explorer and the steering column under the > hood has this ball joint part that is covered by a boot, for some reason > my > boot has busted in half leaving only a small shard of it on there.  Is > there > any sort of replacement part, how easy is it to replace?

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It’s been a while since I have had a chance to check out this newsgroup I thought I would throw in a question as I am thinking of doing some suspension changes to my rig.  I have a 1996 Explorer XL.  It only has about 75000 km on it and I am thinking of changing the shocks out.  My friend said that he would do that every year with his car.   I have not done it yet for my Explorer.  What is the general time line for replacing shocks?  It is probably a relatively cheap thing to do.  Would it improve the ride quality as I feel that my rig doesn’t ride like it used to.  It used to corner quite well and handle bumps but now it seems skittish.

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Shocks are kind of a funny duck…. they start wearing out the first time we go over a bump and it doesn’t ever stop….. There are way to many variables to give a finite number. The shocks wear out so slowly and so progressively that the "pants-o-meter" isn’t a good indicator. Like you, most of us generally just wake up one morning and realize that the old buggy just don’t ride like it used to. For some, once a year might be overkill and for others, once a year might not be enough. Best bet…. play it by ear and watch for the sales…. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It’s been a while since I have had a chance to check out this newsgroup I > thought I would throw in a question as I am thinking of doing some > suspension changes to my rig.  I have a 1996 Explorer XL.  It only has about > 75000 km on it and I am thinking of changing the shocks out.  My friend said > that he would do that every year with his car.   I have not done it yet for > my Explorer.  What is the general time line for replacing shocks?  It is > probably a relatively cheap thing to do.  Would it improve the ride quality > as I feel that my rig doesn’t ride like it used to.  It used to corner quite > well and handle bumps but now it seems skittish.

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what do the codes say???

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How do I check the codes?  I assume I will have to take it to a shop or find a way to read the codes?  Correct? And once I get results from testing, what will the codes likely tell me?

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The codes will give a direction to go in the diagnostic process – the first need to be deciding if the code(s) are a symptom (much like lean fuel codes could be an effect of a plugged fuel filter) or a cause (a TPS code is *usually* a cause – though wiring and/or the PCM can also be the problem). I understand that AutoZone will scan for codes for free though I am unfamiliar with whether they use the correct procedure. For those that would like to know…. the first step in code reading is to check for Continuous Memory DTCs (problems the PCM has detected but may not be present at the time of the test) – note any codes and clear them. Next are the KOEO On Demand DTCs – these are faults the PCM can see at the time of the test – ones that are there NOW. EEC IV vehicles would perform a timing check at this juncture but OBD II vehicles don’t have a spout connector. Next would be the KOER self test – These would be a ‘hard’ code, actually an engine running On Demand DTC. KOER DTCs might include some or all of the previously recorded CMDTCs (since they required the motor to be running to test those inputs and outputs). KOEO codes get fixed first, then the QuickTest is run again. CMDTCs are the last to receive attention (unless they turn out to be KOER On Demand codes). If all you have to work with are CMDTCs, be prepared – these are usually intermittent and can be a real bear to track down. While you’re at AutoZone, don’t forget to pick up a manual with some decent wiring diagrams and code descriptions…. Good luck, — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> How do I check the codes?  I assume I will have to take it to a shop or > find a way to read the codes?  Correct? > And once I get results from testing, what will the codes likely tell me?

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While driving my 96′ XLT, 4.0 Liter over the weekend in winter conditions, snowy, slick roads.  I hit a pot hole, a decent jolt but nothing out of normal, the check engine came on a second after hitting the pot hole.  The owners manual says it could be the fuel cap being loose, I checked it, tightened it and the light is still on, other possible causes list as ‘take to your service tech’ as the remedy. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be.  All the gauges seem to be working fine, all readings are normal, vehicle is running fine as usual, just the light is on.  My initial thoughts are something might have been stuck because of the cold weather and the jolt knocked something loose making the light come on. Any ideas or similar experiences? Thanks

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  I had both of mine low beam bulbs go out at the same time.  Seems I didn’t notice when the first one went out and it took the second one before I got a clue. Mark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Jim’s right, check for bulb continuity and presence of 12V at the bulb > sockets, or better yet, check BOTH fuses first. > There’s a 20A fuse in the Power Dist Box that is hot at all times. That > feeds the multifunction switch (flash to pass and dimmer control) and > the headlamp switch (on/off). That source then feeds the interior fuse > panel where there’s another 20A fuse for the headlights. Unless you > have "Lamp Out Warning" module it’s pretty much as straight shot to the > headlights from there. > So I’d check both 20A fuses since they are both single points of > failure for both headlamps. Agree that the odds of both lamps failing > at the same time is low. > bt > Need some help w/ a headlight problem on my 1996 Explorer (80000 miles). > All at once both low beam headlights quit.  High beams comes on and work > fine.  I checked at the low beam fuse block and got 12 volts whenever I > switched them on while alternating the high/low beam switch.  So the > high/low switich seems to be OK.  All other lights work corectly. > a.  Hard to believe both bulbs went out at same time, but I will check. > b.  Fuses OK. > Anybody have any ideas???  If there may be a common relay or connector that > may be the problem, please be as specific as you can as to it’s > name/purpose, what it looks like, where it’s located and how I can check it.

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Well guess what!!!!  Both bulbs were burned out.  Hard to believe.  But it only cost me $29 for the service guy to find it and replace the bulbs…price included 2 bulbs.  Thanks for help/advice.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->   I had both of mine low beam bulbs go out at the same time.  Seems I > didn’t notice when the first one went out and it took the second one > before I got a clue. > Mark > Jim’s right, check for bulb continuity and presence of 12V at the bulb > sockets, or better yet, check BOTH fuses first. > There’s a 20A fuse in the Power Dist Box that is hot at all times. That > feeds the multifunction switch (flash to pass and dimmer control) and > the headlamp switch (on/off). That source then feeds the interior fuse > panel where there’s another 20A fuse for the headlights. Unless you > have "Lamp Out Warning" module it’s pretty much as straight shot to the > headlights from there. > So I’d check both 20A fuses since they are both single points of > failure for both headlamps. Agree that the odds of both lamps failing > at the same time is low. > bt >> Need some help w/ a headlight problem on my 1996 Explorer (80000 miles). >> All at once both low beam headlights quit.  High beams comes on and work >> fine.  I checked at the low beam fuse block and got 12 volts whenever I >> switched them on while alternating the high/low beam switch.  So the >> high/low switich seems to be OK.  All other lights work corectly. >> a.  Hard to believe both bulbs went out at same time, but I will check. >> b.  Fuses OK. >> Anybody have any ideas???  If there may be a common relay or connector that >> may be the problem, please be as specific as you can as to it’s >> name/purpose, what it looks like, where it’s located and how I can check it.

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Jim’s right, check for bulb continuity and presence of 12V at the bulb sockets, or better yet, check BOTH fuses first. There’s a 20A fuse in the Power Dist Box that is hot at all times. That feeds the multifunction switch (flash to pass and dimmer control) and the headlamp switch (on/off). That source then feeds the interior fuse panel where there’s another 20A fuse for the headlights. Unless you have "Lamp Out Warning" module it’s pretty much as straight shot to the headlights from there. So I’d check both 20A fuses since they are both single points of failure for both headlamps. Agree that the odds of both lamps failing at the same time is low. bt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Need some help w/ a headlight problem on my 1996 Explorer (80000 miles). > All at once both low beam headlights quit.  High beams comes on and work > fine.  I checked at the low beam fuse block and got 12 volts whenever I > switched them on while alternating the high/low beam switch.  So the > high/low switich seems to be OK.  All other lights work corectly. > a.  Hard to believe both bulbs went out at same time, but I will check. > b.  Fuses OK. > Anybody have any ideas???  If there may be a common relay or connector that > may be the problem, please be as specific as you can as to it’s > name/purpose, what it looks like, where it’s located and how I can check it.

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Attack the problem logically – you will save yourself grief. Check the bulbs first and then go to the next step. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Need some help w/ a headlight problem on my 1996 Explorer (80000 miles). > All at once both low beam headlights quit.  High beams comes on and work > fine.  I checked at the low beam fuse block and got 12 volts whenever I > switched them on while alternating the high/low beam switch.  So the > high/low switich seems to be OK.  All other lights work corectly. > a.  Hard to believe both bulbs went out at same time, but I will check. > b.  Fuses OK. > Anybody have any ideas???  If there may be a common relay or connector that > may be the problem, please be as specific as you can as to it’s > name/purpose, what it looks like, where it’s located and how I can check it.

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Need some help w/ a headlight problem on my 1996 Explorer (80000 miles). All at once both low beam headlights quit.  High beams comes on and work fine.  I checked at the low beam fuse block and got 12 volts whenever I switched them on while alternating the high/low beam switch.  So the high/low switich seems to be OK.  All other lights work corectly. a.  Hard to believe both bulbs went out at same time, but I will check. b.  Fuses OK. Anybody have any ideas???  If there may be a common relay or connector that may be the problem, please be as specific as you can as to it’s name/purpose, what it looks like, where it’s located and how I can check it.

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