Question:

Has anyone had any luck getting Alex Peper’s OBD-II scan tool to work with the V8 1996 Explorer?  Any hints? Thanks! Before you buy.

Response:

I just got it to work on my 97 v6. 1) connect cable and turn car on 2) click connect then terminate 3) after the save log dialog box is closed, a user ID promt will come up 4) type in the ID code that was  e-mailed to you, It was on the 2nd email sent to me 5) click connect again. oh yea, it doesn’t work with win2000, I had to boot to win 98. good luck

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Has anyone had any luck getting Alex Peper’s OBD-II scan tool to work > with the V8 1996 Explorer?  Any hints? > Thanks! > Before you buy.

Response:

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Question:

According to my ‘96 factory OBD II manual for the 5.0 V8 Explorer, DTC 402 is Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) excess flow detected, or flow at idle, the self-test has detected EGR flow. Possible causes: Non-seated EGR valve Damaged EGR valve Damaged EGR Valve Postion (EGR V.P.) sensor Plugged or pinched EGR valve vaccum hose Plugged or iced EGR Vaccum Regulator (EGR V.R.) solenoid vent EVR circuit shorted to ground Damaged EGR Vaccum Regulator solenoid Damaged PCM The system test for a stuck open EGR valve or EGR flow at idle is continously performed whenever at idle (TP sensor indicating closed throttle) The monitor compares the DPFE cicuit voltage at idle to the DPFE circuit voltage stored during key on engine off to determine if EGR flow is present at idle. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->What does the Code 402 stand for? >If you tried replacing the valve and sensor and it didn’t fix anything.. >try returning them. Even though they say you "can’t return electrical >parts" they still accepted mine with a little persuasion. Just make sure >that it’s perfectly clean, etc. >My guess is that if you’ve replaced the EGR valve and sensor already, it >must be the solenoid (only thing left, really). >I’m sure you’ve read the series of emails for my problems… >Try hooking a vacuum line up directly to the EGR valve while the engine >is idling.. it should run really rough or stall – if it does this is >good and means that the line from the exhaust manifold to the air intake >manifold isn’t clogged. >While the truck is running try pulling the vacuum line off of the vacuum >solenoid to see if there is a vacuum making it to there. If there is no >vacuum, then you probably have a crack in the hose between the vacuum >lines and the solenoid. If there is a vacuum, then the solenoid could >definetely be your problem. >You also may want to test if there is power making it to the solenoid >(light voltage test meter – poke it through the red wire). >What does the 402 mean? > I had a check engine light on and scanned the code and received code >402.  I > replaced EGR Valve and sensor  ( 1996 Explorer V8). Check engine light >came > back on the same day.  I scanned again and got the same code 402. >What might > caise this ?  Could it be the EGR Vaccum Solinoid ?  Could it be stuck >open, > How can I test it… HELP PLEASE ??? > Randy >Before you buy.

Response:

>> I had a check engine light on and scanned the code and received code 402.  I > replaced EGR Valve and sensor  ( 1996 Explorer V8). Check engine light came > back on the same day.  I scanned again and got the same code 402.  What might > caise this ?  Could it be the EGR Vaccum Solinoid ?  Could it be stuck open, > How can I test it… HELP PLEASE ??? >Did you replace the hoses from the sensor to the EGR tube?

Yes

Response:

What does the Code 402 stand for? If you tried replacing the valve and sensor and it didn’t fix anything.. try returning them. Even though they say you "can’t return electrical parts" they still accepted mine with a little persuasion. Just make sure that it’s perfectly clean, etc. My guess is that if you’ve replaced the EGR valve and sensor already, it must be the solenoid (only thing left, really). I’m sure you’ve read the series of emails for my problems… Try hooking a vacuum line up directly to the EGR valve while the engine is idling.. it should run really rough or stall – if it does this is good and means that the line from the exhaust manifold to the air intake manifold isn’t clogged. While the truck is running try pulling the vacuum line off of the vacuum solenoid to see if there is a vacuum making it to there. If there is no vacuum, then you probably have a crack in the hose between the vacuum lines and the solenoid. If there is a vacuum, then the solenoid could definetely be your problem. You also may want to test if there is power making it to the solenoid (light voltage test meter – poke it through the red wire). What does the 402 mean? > I had a check engine light on and scanned the code and received code 402.  I > replaced EGR Valve and sensor  ( 1996 Explorer V8). Check engine light came > back on the same day.  I scanned again and got the same code 402. What might > caise this ?  Could it be the EGR Vaccum Solinoid ?  Could it be stuck open, > How can I test it… HELP PLEASE ??? > Randy

Before you buy.

Response:

I had a check engine light on and scanned the code and received code 402.  I replaced EGR Valve and sensor  ( 1996 Explorer V8). Check engine light came back on the same day.  I scanned again and got the same code 402.  What might caise this ?  Could it be the EGR Vaccum Solinoid ?  Could it be stuck open,   How can I test it… HELP PLEASE ??? Randy

Response:

> I had a check engine light on and scanned the code and received code 402.  I > replaced EGR Valve and sensor  ( 1996 Explorer V8). Check engine light came > back on the same day.  I scanned again and got the same code 402.  What might > caise this ?  Could it be the EGR Vaccum Solinoid ?  Could it be stuck open, > How can I test it… HELP PLEASE ???

Did you replace the hoses from the sensor to the EGR tube?

Response:

Question:

Anyone every buy a new Borland exhaust system and K&N air filter charger?? I was wondering if these are worth the money and if there is a noticeable change.

Response:

>Anyone every buy a new Borland exhaust system and K&N air filter charger?? I >was wondering if these are worth the money and if there is a noticeable >change.

what is a borland exaust??…..anyway i got the k&n  VERY EXPENSIVE (i have one for sale if you are from NJ email me if interested)  but it worked awesome and sounded great with a flowmaster exhaust ][-][ (()) ][\][ ][)) //-\   the only way to go project b18c5 civic ex sedan not just your average 4 door http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3141/eNtErJoEyPs.html

Response:

>>Anyone every buy a new Borland exhaust system and K&N air filter charger?? I >was wondering if these are worth the money and if there is a noticeable >change. >what is a borland exaust??…

You are of course referring to the BORLA exhaust.  Borland is the handyman sidekick on TOOLTIME. "Well, Tim, I’ve developed a new high output catback exhaust system for my truck…" "AR AR AR AR" There have been several posts regarding these exhausts.  They are more expensive than most (and have a lifetime warranty-stainless steel), seem to be fairly loud, but those who have them love them.  Flowmaster and Gibson seem to be popular aftermarket systems for the Explorer as well. Damalek ‘97 V8 AWD

Response:

>Anyone every buy a new Borland exhaust system and K&N air filter charger?? I >was wondering if these are worth the money and if there is a noticeable change.

I put on the Borla and installed the K&N Filter and love my noticable increase in towing power and some fuel economy increase.  Sound of exhaust is different but not objectionable.

Response:

> what is a borland exaust??…..anyway i got the k&n  VERY EXPENSIVE (i have one > for sale if you are from NJ email me if interested)  but it worked awesome and > sounded great with a flowmaster exhaust

Actually, I’m sure he meant Borla…  Borla is stainless steel and ~$700.00 for a cat back system. What did you pay for the K&N?  I picked one up at AutoZone for $49.00 for my V8.

Response:

You can get the catback for around $400 and It does sound nice, but not objectonable.  Alittle louder, but a nice rumble. If the filter was very expensive , was it the Filter injection performance kit? Basicallly a free-air air filter..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> what is a borland exaust??…..anyway i got the k&n  VERY EXPENSIVE (i have one > for sale if you are from NJ email me if interested)  but it worked awesome and > sounded great with a flowmaster exhaust > Actually, I’m sure he meant Borla…  Borla is stainless steel and > ~$700.00 for a cat back system. > What did you pay for the K&N?  I picked one up at AutoZone for $49.00 > for my V8.

Response:

>> what is a borland exaust??…..anyway i got the k&n  VERY EXPENSIVE (i have one > for sale if you are from NJ email me if interested)  but it worked awesome and > sounded great with a flowmaster exhaust >Actually, I’m sure he meant Borla…  Borla is stainless steel and >~$700.00 for a cat back system. >What did you pay for the K&N?  I picked one up at AutoZone for $49.00 >for my V8.

I paid $40 for the K&N Filter and $354 for the Borla plus I had my mechanic install it for $55.  Bought the Borla from www.SavannaJones.Com Borla Cat-Back Systems Year Application Part # Price 1991-92  Explorer, 4-Door 14343 $354.50 1993-94 Explorer, 4-Door 14417 $354.50 1995-96 Explorer, 4-Door, excluding V8 14514 $354.50 1991-92  Explorer, 2-Door 14344 $354.50 1993-94 Explorer, 2-Door 14418 $354.50 1995-96 Explorer, 2-Door, excluding V8 14515 $354.50 1996 Explorer, 4-Door, with V8 14634 $492.45

Response:

Wow a good price for the Borla ,I got mine for $418. Uninstalled, even tho it wasn’t that hard to put on.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> what is a borland exaust??…..anyway i got the k&n  VERY EXPENSIVE (i have one >> for sale if you are from NJ email me if interested)  but it worked awesome and >> sounded great with a flowmaster exhaust >Actually, I’m sure he meant Borla…  Borla is stainless steel and >~$700.00 for a cat back system. >What did you pay for the K&N?  I picked one up at AutoZone for $49.00 >for my V8. > I paid $40 for the K&N Filter and $354 for the Borla plus I had my > mechanic install it for $55.  Bought the Borla from > www.SavannaJones.Com > Borla Cat-Back Systems > Year Application Part # Price > 1991-92  Explorer, 4-Door 14343 $354.50 > 1993-94 Explorer, 4-Door 14417 $354.50 > 1995-96 Explorer, 4-Door, excluding V8 14514 $354.50 > 1991-92  Explorer, 2-Door 14344 $354.50 > 1993-94 Explorer, 2-Door 14418 $354.50 > 1995-96 Explorer, 2-Door, excluding V8 14515 $354.50 > 1996 Explorer, 4-Door, with V8 14634 $492.45

Response:

Question:

My 1996 Explorer, with only 45K miles, is leaking differential fluid from the yoke. Is there a seal that can be reasonably replaced (without the use of exotic tools) to solve this problem? Thanks, Brian Thomson

Response:

Just had this same leak repaired. Had my local garage do the work since it looks pretty much over my head for this one. I usually do my own maintainance. Cost about $115. The parts were about 30 bucks. andy

Response:

Question:

HI everyone. First off all sorry about my poor English. I’m doing my best. I bought a 1996 Explorer XLT and maybe this could be a stupid question, but… When I turn on the 4WD AUTO or 4WD LOW, only 1 light turn on (the 4WD) I know that there is 2 lights one for each. Is that correct. Dirk from Argentina

Response:

I just bought a 95 XLT and really wanna test the 4WD.  If I shift into 4WD on normal pavement, will I damage the system?  Why is it called 4WD auto? The dealer was trying to tell me something about it shifting into 4WD only when it needs to or something like that. -cf

Response:

>When I turn on the 4WD AUTO or 4WD LOW, only 1 light turn on (the 4WD) >I know that there is 2 lights one for each. >Is that correct.

I don’t know about the ‘96, but on the ‘99, you must be in NEUTRAL (do it with the brake on) when you switch to 4WD low, or else it will not go into that gear (and so you won’t see the light).

Response:

The 4WD Auto can be set to any road conditions. So, yes you can try it out as long you don’t use 4WD LOW on dry pavement. The 4WD Auto is when the rear wheels begins to slip, the power transfered to the front wheel until the rear wheels are not any faster then the front. It is nice when you go over gravel roads, loose dirt on a hill, etc. Try doing that when the rear wheels is over some loose dirt and step on it. > I just bought a 95 XLT and really wanna test the 4WD.  If I shift into 4WD > on normal pavement, will I damage the system?  Why is it called 4WD auto? > The dealer was trying to tell me something about it shifting into 4WD only > when it needs to or something like that. > -cf

Response:

Won’t hurt it to be in 4WD-Auto on dry pavement, but you likely will not notice any difference, either. In the Auto mode, power continues to be sent to the rear until the wheels start to slip. You may hear the front axle getting connected (in ‘95 and ‘96 models) if you listen carefully, I suppose. Shifting to 4WD-Lo involves a motor shifting the gears in the transfer case. You will hear that and notice the difference. OK if driving straight ahead for a bit, but as the front and rear axles will be locked, turing will bind up the driveline on non-slip surfaces.   =Vic= Bear Gap, PA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I just bought a 95 XLT and really wanna test the 4WD.  If I shift into 4WD > on normal pavement, will I damage the system?  Why is it called 4WD auto? > The dealer was trying to tell me something about it shifting into 4WD only > when it needs to or something like that. > -cf

Response:

Question:

it’s the spark plugs, these engine only like a certain kind and if yu pick the wrong one you kill the plugs easily.  i had the prob twice and haven’t for a long time now.  you either have the wrong gap or you flooded the thing and killed it either way one of the plugs mostlikely went dead and needs a fixen.  take it to the dealer they have an upgrade plug for these engines and put them in correctly (i hope).  if you feel the engine putter at mid to low range then you killed a plug and your dumpin fuel down the exhaust. checkem good new comer joey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Does anyone out there know exactly what causes the "check engine" > warning light to go on and stay on.  I have a 1996 Explorer (V6) and for > some odd reason ever since I changed the plugs on it, the dam light just > won’t go out.  I know this has something to do with emissions, but I was > wondering if it has this happened to anyone else and if it has what did > you do to fix it.  I wonder if it has anything to do with spark plug gap > spacing.  If anyone has an answer please let me know.  Thanks.

Response:

Greg: The stamped-ring encoder works on your car.  The system works by reading the variations in the flux density as the ring passes the pickup.  I had a long discussion with Century/Raybestos on this for a reader in Germany who was tearing his hair with the same problems. Solution is the current replacement stamped-ring ABS rotor, they said. And it was… dr bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a ‘94 Explorer with 120K miles and it need new brakes.  I have to >replace the rotors. >Problem is, the dealers and parts stores only stock a rotor with a >slotted ring ABS encoder.  My rotors have a toothed ring pressed into >the bottom of the rotor hub.  I beleive there was a mid-year engineering >change. >Can anyone provide me with a part number for the correct rotor with the >cast-tooth encoder rather than the stamped-ring encoder? >–

Response:

Thanks Dr. Bob! After lengthy examination at the parts store, we came to the same conclusion and found that the new rotors would fit.  After installation, a hard braking in the gravel alley behind my house proved that the stamped-exciter rotor works just fine. — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Greg: > The stamped-ring encoder works on your car.  The system works by > reading the variations in the flux density as the ring passes the > pickup.  I had a long discussion with Century/Raybestos on this for a > reader in Germany who was tearing his hair with the same problems. > Solution is the current replacement stamped-ring ABS rotor, they said. > And it was… > dr bob

Response:

Does anyone out there know exactly what causes the "check engine" warning light to go on and stay on.  I have a 1996 Explorer (V6) and for some odd reason ever since I changed the plugs on it, the dam light just won’t go out.  I know this has something to do with emissions, but I was wondering if it has this happened to anyone else and if it has what did you do to fix it.  I wonder if it has anything to do with spark plug gap spacing.  If anyone has an answer please let me know.  Thanks.

Response:

Heres the list I’ve made: 1 – bad/dud plugs 2 – spark plug wires (really easy to screw up when changing plugs) 3 – O2 sensor going out / needing to be cleaned 4 – MAF (mass air flow?) sensor going out / needing to be cleaned 5 – cat damaged (on newer Explorers (ECC-V)) 6 – something deeper, such as injectors, spark distribution (eletronic or mechanical), computer damaged, wiring problems, etc etc etc. I’d go through and do the simple stuff first, especially wear items like plug wires, cleaning the MAF, etc etc.  If that doesn’t work find an error scanner and see if it gives you some clues.  If you’ve still got the old plugs you may want to try putting them back in and see if the problem goes away – I’ve had bad plugs before (thank you AC/Delco). JS > Does anyone out there know exactly what causes the "check engine" > warning light to go on and stay on.  I have a 1996 Explorer (V6) and for > some odd reason ever since I changed the plugs on it, the dam light just > won’t go out.  I know this has something to do with emissions, but I was > wondering if it has this happened to anyone else and if it has what did > you do to fix it.  I wonder if it has anything to do with spark plug gap > spacing.  If anyone has an answer please let me know.  Thanks.

– Jacob Suter                                     (409) 687-9066 Intrastellar Internet Service            1992 Explorer XLT 2WD Grapeland, Tx – USA                              J4k3-IT on Q2

Response:

I have a ‘94 Explorer with 120K miles and it need new brakes.  I have to replace the rotors. Problem is, the dealers and parts stores only stock a rotor with a slotted ring ABS encoder.  My rotors have a toothed ring pressed into the bottom of the rotor hub.  I beleive there was a mid-year engineering change. Can anyone provide me with a part number for the correct rotor with the cast-tooth encoder rather than the stamped-ring encoder? —

Response:

Question:

1996 Explorer. I noticed a couple of weeks back that the light on the right hand cruise control switches was out.  I tapped on it and they came back on for a second or two, but off ever since.  Has anyone remoced their switch to replace the bulb, or removed and replaced that switch?  I have removed air bags before, but it is not something i like doing.  DO i have to remove the air bag to get to the cruise control switch or does the cover just pop off? Any help greatly appreciated!

Response:

No one has ever replaced the switches on a 95 and up explorer, or know how to do it?  Wow.  Off to the store for the manuals….. Paul – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >1996 Explorer. >I noticed a couple of weeks back that the light on the right hand cruise >control switches was out.  I tapped on it and they came back on for a second >or two, but off ever since.  Has anyone remoced their switch to replace the >bulb, or removed and replaced that switch?  I have removed air bags before, >but it is not something i like doing.  DO i have to remove the air bag to >get to the cruise control switch or does the cover just pop off? >Any help greatly appreciated!

Response:

Question:

Hi, I recently bought a 1996 Explorer Sport and did not receive a manual and have questions about the 4WD system.  Can someone please explain the meaning and function of the following 3 settings. 2WD 4WD Auto 4WD Low Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Dan

Response:

Hi Dan E, I own a ‘96 4DR, 4WD XLT and understand the 4WD system well after studying the shop manual. 1995 and newer Explorers have a frame mounted front differential with dual CV joint front axle stubs.  Older Explorers had a rigid front differential and left axle housing with a CV joint to the right axle.  When you put these on a lift you can clearly see how the front tires pivot inwards as the axle drops.  These older Explorers also used hub locks. Your year Explorer has a front axle disconnect to allow a 2WD mode.  In this case, just the right front axle is disconnected from the drive chain. Additionally, in 2WD mode the electromagnetic clutch in the transfer case lets go.  This leaves the left front axle turning the front differential. This will result in some combination of the front driveshaft and right axle stub spinning.  For instance, if the driveshaft is stopped, the right axle stub will spin in reverse as fast as the left axle stub spins forward.  What actually happens is immaterial, but some energy is wasted in the friction of the system.  The energy waste is quite minimal. In 4Auto mode the front axle shaft engages and the electromagnetic clutch pulses at about a 4% duty cycle.  This insures the front drive train is fully up to speed and loaded slightly towards the "pushing" side.  There are two speed sensors in the transfer case that continually provide data to the GEM microprocessor about the speed of the front and rear driveshafts.  The GEM makes sure they are the same speed, and if the rear starts spinning faster than the front it more tightly engages the electromagnetic clutch, providing front drive power.  This reaction is pretty quick and would be limited by the characteristics of the clutch and software.  This mode allows you to drive full time on dry surfaces without binding up the drive train. The loose coupling and software allow the front drive train to spin at a slightly different speed when turning in tight circles.  You’ll notice a slight pulsing in the steering wheel if you turn tightly in 4Auto mode on dry surfaces. 4LO mode simply engages the front clutch 100% and changes the overall gear ratio of the drive train lower for more power at low speeds.  You cannot drive on dry surfaces in 4LO mode without binding the drive train. Note that this description applies only to 1995 and 1996 Explorers.  1994 and earlier systems had a drastically different front axle and hubs.  1997 and newer systems dropped the 2WD mode and added a 4HI mode.  4HI simply locks the clutch on without dropping in a lower gear ratio.  Also, the front axle disengagement system was deleted. In my type of driving I think the 95/96 system is best.  I use 2WD mode in warm weather, except when raining, when I flip on 4Auto mode.  I use 4Auto mode all winter here in Connecticut.  I’ve never really needed 4LO mode, but I’ve used it a few times.  I do turn it on at least every two months, year round.  I found a short dirt road alternate route on my regular drive to work.  I take this side road and flip on 4LO for about 1/2 mile.  This ensures the mechanisms don’t corrode and stick.  The shift motor in the transfer case and the spline clutch on the front axle are thus exercised. This also makes me remember the procedure to engage 4LO.  You must be stopped, with your foot on the brake and in neutral for 4LO to engage. Enjoy your new truck! Ted Sz – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > I recently bought a 1996 Explorer Sport and did not receive a manual and > have questions about the 4WD system.  Can someone please explain the > meaning and function of the following 3 settings. > 2WD > 4WD Auto > 4WD Low > Any advice would be appreciated. > Thanks > Dan

Response:

Ted, That was a great explanation.  Is the 1997+ system the AWD system that is currently sold on 1999s?  Do you know of any online diagrams that demonstrate your explanation?  I don’t have the shop manual.  Thanks. Andy Greenberg

Response:

Question:

I need to replace my shocks, so these posts are helpful.  Any experience with the Explorer shocks and sway bars from the John Baker mail order?  The claim is that the Tokico (gas shocks) are the best.  I’m thinking of Bilsteins, though, (readily available) and the sway bar kit from this catalog (1-800-843-0185).  I have no affiliation with the catalog.

Response:

I have the Tokico (gas shocks) on my 1996 Explorer.  I really like how it handles.  It made a big differents with the Tokico shocks.  We have had good luck ordering from the John Baker mail order.   Harold                                                              

Response:

Question:

After recently riding in a friend’s 96 Explorer Limited I noticed that his rode a lot smoother than mine (same year and model).    The ride on my Explorer is very hard and actually very uncomfortable.  I have lowered the air pressure in my tires, and that helped slightly. I know the Limited has the air suspension, is that the problem, or is their something else that I could try?  The ride is driving me crazy!

Response:

thanks for helping diagnose why my truck rides so rough..

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