Question:

This is my first time posting, and I’m hoping for some help? I have a 97 Explorer Sport with apparently serious emmisions issues… It failed it’s emmissons tests, I was told because of the check engine light. I’ve had it about 3 years, it’s got 85,000 miles on it but runs great for the most part. The mechanic today told me that the codes (P0442, P0300 (tune up?), P0174) were serious, that I was looking at at least $1K to try to fix em. If those repairs didn’t solve the issue it would cost much more. He also says that the annoying rattle the engine’s been making is serious, and the only way to fix is to replace engine. Basically he told me that if it were his truck he wouldn’t bother. I love my truck, it runs fine, and I can’t give up on it! I have an appointment Fri to get a second opinion, but was wondering if anyone has had any similar codes or experiences? Thanks in advance! Sarah

Response:

Difficult to tell at this distance…. especially without knowing a little more about the truck, it’s condition and some doctor/patient kind of stuff. Annoying rattles should be addressed as soon as they appear…. they wont go away and they usually get worse financially. If this is the SOHC 4.0L, check to see if the cam tensioner updates have been done (send me your VIN off list and I can run OASIS as a starting point). Your car will likely be past the warranty extension – be aware that this job will go faster, be cheaper and have less headaches if the shop has the special tools. P0442…. is a small leak in the evaporative emissions control system. A faulty gas cap is the likeliest suspect – if that doesn’t fix it, your shop will need a smoke machine to diagnose the problem in a timely and economical manner. P0300…. indicates a random misfire – a tune up may cure this. P0174 indicates that the left cylinder bank is running lean….. vacuum leak, ignition troubles… there are several things that can cause this code. Be aware that P0300 might be a result of P0174 OR P0174 might be a result of P0300. Conditions to cause either one of these codes can be very similar. I would certainly caution against going back to the original mechanic – he sounds like a bit of a cretin. Choose your mechanic wisely, much like you would choose a doctor. Poor mechanics may bid a job lower but wind up costong more in the end. Good techs will be as honest as they can about what they are doing and what they need to charge. HTH

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This is my first time posting, and I’m hoping for some help? I have a 97 > Explorer Sport with apparently serious emmisions issues… It failed it’s > emmissons tests, I was told because of the check engine light. I’ve had it > about 3 years, it’s got 85,000 miles on it but runs great for the most > part. > The mechanic today told me that the codes (P0442, P0300 (tune up?), P0174) > were serious, that I was looking at at least $1K to try to fix em. If those > repairs didn’t solve the issue it would cost much more. He also says that > the annoying rattle the engine’s been making is serious, and the only way > to fix is to replace engine. Basically he told me that if it were his > truck he wouldn’t bother. > I love my truck, it runs fine, and I can’t give up on it! I have an > appointment Fri to get a second opinion, but was wondering if anyone has > had any similar codes or experiences? > Thanks in advance! > Sarah

Response:

Hi Jim, Thanks so much for your post, I’d tried to send you my VIN but the email came back undeliverable. Anyway – you were absolutely dead-on right. I took it for a second opinion and it was the camshaft chain tensioner. They also replaced the lower intake manifold gasket, and the gas cap. All fixed for less than half of what the 1st mechanic had quoted. I’m going to drive it for a while before I take it back to be retested, make sure that engine light stays off, but you were so right I just wanted to let you know. Thanks again! Sarah PS – I don’t suppose you know anything about the 4×4 lights blinking? The 4wd works fine, I’ve had two different mechanics tell me it’s no big deal as long as it works, but why the blinking??

Response:

Question:

Gordon, My ‘94 EB had the leaf problem so bad that one night they caught fire. You haven’t lived until you’re driving down a foggy road at midnight, turn on the fan and start seeing smoke billowing out of the vents. I kept thinking that there "must be a forrest fire around here somewhere". I luckily turned off the fan so that I wouldn’t "fan" the flames but it smoldered for quite a while. dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Don R. diagnosed the real root of the problem.  I don’t seem to have as much > trouble if I spend most of the summer using Max A/C… > The problem I have is not a moldy smell, rather a smoky smell. > Sometimes so intense I have to crack a window to get some fresh air so > my eyes stop burning!  The reason is that in my ‘94 the leaves and crap > get into the plenum and pack up against the power resistors for the > heater blower motor.  Whichever resistor is selected for a given blower > speed will get hot — some of them VERY hot — while the blower is on. > I’ve found that running the fan on high is least likely to make the > burning smell (aside from "off" , whether because that position uses > no resistor, that resistor doesn’t get as hot, or that resistor is > located so that crap doesn’t pack up against it. > A couple of times I’ve taken apart the blower assembly and pulled out > the junk, but it’s a real PITA to get at. > — > Gordon S. Hlavenka           http://www.crashelectronics.com >            "If we imagined he could _find_ the car, >         we could pretend it might be fixed." – Calvin

Response:

> Don R. diagnosed the real root of the problem.  I don’t seem to have as much > trouble if I spend most of the summer using Max A/C…

The problem I have is not a moldy smell, rather a smoky smell. Sometimes so intense I have to crack a window to get some fresh air so my eyes stop burning!  The reason is that in my ‘94 the leaves and crap get into the plenum and pack up against the power resistors for the heater blower motor.  Whichever resistor is selected for a given blower speed will get hot — some of them VERY hot — while the blower is on. I’ve found that running the fan on high is least likely to make the burning smell (aside from "off" , whether because that position uses no resistor, that resistor doesn’t get as hot, or that resistor is located so that crap doesn’t pack up against it. A couple of times I’ve taken apart the blower assembly and pulled out the junk, but it’s a real PITA to get at. — Gordon S. Hlavenka           http://www.crashelectronics.com            "If we imagined he could _find_ the car,         we could pretend it might be fixed." – Calvin

Response:

Thanks to all

Response:

Seems like there is a "perpetual" TSB for this.  If it’s the one I’m thinking about, it seems to get issued for just about every year, and consists of some type of chemical/spray that is introduced into the evaporator compartment of the AC system.  Seems like it was more than just a deodorizer – I seem to remember the TSB mentioning some type of "encapsulation" spray with a specific methodology for application.  I had the dealer do this to mine while it was still under warranty, and it really did help for about two years, after which the smell came back.  Sounds like Don R. diagnosed the real root of the problem.  I don’t seem to have as much trouble if I spend most of the summer using Max A/C… my guess is that maybe this keeps recirculation damper open even while parked, giving the evaporator compartment a better chance to dry out… Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Check the NHTSA website (or wherever…) Seems to me there was a TSB about > this…. > 2000 Explorer > I have a moldy smell when I first turn on my defrosters in the morning. I > bought a spray that is supposed to kill the mold.  It says to spray it in > to > the fresh air intake> Can anybody tell me where that is?

Response:

Check the NHTSA website (or wherever…) Seems to me there was a TSB about this….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2000 Explorer > I have a moldy smell when I first turn on my defrosters in the morning.  I > bought a spray that is supposed to kill the mold.  It says to spray it in to > the fresh air intake> Can anybody tell me where that is?

Response:

> It says to spray it in to > the fresh air intake> Can anybody tell me where that is?

Between the hood and the windshield. — Gordon S. Hlavenka           http://www.crashelectronics.com            "If we imagined he could _find_ the car,         we could pretend it might be fixed." – Calvin

Response:

The fresh air intake comes through the grates that are in front of the windshield below the wipers. I have a 1997 Explorer that developed a moldy smell when the defrosters or AC was turned on too but went away after about a minute or two of running the blower.  It tried the sprays and the deodorizers and they worked for a while but the smell kept coming back so I decided that I had to get to the root of the problem. I originally thought that the drain line from the enclosure that surrounds the AC/defroster condenser coil was clogged resulting in standing water and causing the foul smell.  I ran the AC and watched to see if there was condenser water dripping out from below the vehicle.  I did see some water dripping out, which also helped me locate the drain line, and figured that maybe it was only partially clogged.  So I  pushed a stiff wire into the drain hose to see if there might be a partial obstruction.  A little debris came out so I assumed that I had fixed the problem, but the problem returned again even though I was getting adequate drainage. I then concluded that a more thorough cleaning would be needed to get rid of this smell.  The easiest way that I could see to gain access to the AC condenser coil without a major disassembly of the vehicle was to remove the blower motor assembly.  On a ‘97 it’s pretty accessible being under the hood on the passenger side right up against the firewall.  I had to remove a couple of screws from the washer fluid and coolant reservoirs and move them forward slightly to get the blower motor with it’s attached flange out. Once that was out I could see the condenser pretty well.  I found that my problem was caused by debris (leaf particles and other small organic particulate) that had accumulated at the bottom of the enclosure that houses the condenser coil.  Since this junk was damp, mold had begun to grow and cause the odor. Unfortunately, the parking lot where I work has a row of large shrubbery right in front of the vehicles.  Every time the wind blows, debris from these shrubs gets blown onto the cars.  While most of it is large enough to be blocked by the grating, some of the smaller particles managed to get through.  After a few years of this, enough junk got down into the condenser coil area and started to decay causing the odor.  The problem seemed to be worse in the summer especially since my truck is kept in the garage.  The combination of dead leaves and debris, condenser water and heat made things pretty stinky. I was able to clean out the debris by sticking a garden hose into the blower motor opening and flushing all the gunk out.  If you try this make sure you get both sides of the condenser coil.  I was able to get the spray from the hose to the backside of the condenser and wash it out too.  I then let the water drain out from the area and sprayed it with a water/bleach solution to kill all the mold.  I haven’t had the odor since although I suspect that another cleaning in the future will be necessary as the same thing will probably occur after a few more years of accumulating junk from the shrubs. Good luck and I hope this gives you a little insight to solving your problem. Don

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2000 Explorer > I have a moldy smell when I first turn on my defrosters in the morning.  I > bought a spray that is supposed to kill the mold.  It says to spray it in to > the fresh air intake> Can anybody tell me where that is?

Response:

2000 Explorer I have a moldy smell when I first turn on my defrosters in the morning.  I bought a spray that is supposed to kill the mold.  It says to spray it in to the fresh air intake> Can anybody tell me where that is?

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Question:

I had a 96 and now I have a 98 XLT with the V8 in it.  On both I changed all the plugs from the wheel wells.  I would remove a rubber flap and all of the plugs were easily accessible – a few were a little tight, but not a problem.  I don’t know if this will help with yours, but there has to be a creative way to do it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Well I changed plugs and wires last night, (104K miles 95 Explorer Sport) >had a skip in acceleration , my suggestions are prepare for banged knuckles, >took about 1.5 hours. The most difficult part was to get the wires off, even >had to cut one to get it out, plugs were easy to get out, tools used were >3/8" drive ratchet, 1",4", 6" extensions and universal, combinations of >these got them all out. Wires were another story at least 75% of my time was >just to get them out, new went on easily but had to be creative on one of >them for routing. Also wait for the engine to be cold before attempting >this. >Good Luck >Bob T > Its time to do plugs and wires in my 97 Limited with 4.0 SOHC motor.  I >have > a few questions before I start this task.  Is this a difficult job?  I’ve > looked around under the hood and the passenger side looks very cluttered > with stuff and it looks almost impossible to get to the back plug.  Is >this > plug accessible from underneath the truck?  Any tips/tricks I should know > about?  Does anyone have any recommendations on what plugs and wires to >use? > I just called Summit Racing and they only had 2 sets of wires that would >fit > this motor. > Any suggestions would be appreciated, > — > Dave Earle

Response:

> Well, I changed mine about 6 months ago.  It took over 2 hours.  Mostly > because I’d go cross-eyed cussing out the ford engineers for not giving me > more room to swing the ratchet and have to stop for a beer and calm down. > Don’t start this if you have to go somewhere in an hour. > I had to go up from the wheel well for the passenger side plugs (back two) > and even getting the rubber splash shield off down there was a PITA.

Same experience here, access to both those plugs was terrible! No combination of  ratchet extensions and u-joints would get in there right. And I should have worn gloves, it made a bloody mess when the wrench slipped.

Response:

Well I changed plugs and wires last night, (104K miles 95 Explorer Sport) had a skip in acceleration , my suggestions are prepare for banged knuckles, took about 1.5 hours. The most difficult part was to get the wires off, even had to cut one to get it out, plugs were easy to get out, tools used were 3/8" drive ratchet, 1",4", 6" extensions and universal, combinations of these got them all out. Wires were another story at least 75% of my time was just to get them out, new went on easily but had to be creative on one of them for routing. Also wait for the engine to be cold before attempting this. Good Luck Bob T

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Its time to do plugs and wires in my 97 Limited with 4.0 SOHC motor.  I have > a few questions before I start this task.  Is this a difficult job?  I’ve > looked around under the hood and the passenger side looks very cluttered > with stuff and it looks almost impossible to get to the back plug.  Is this > plug accessible from underneath the truck?  Any tips/tricks I should know > about?  Does anyone have any recommendations on what plugs and wires to use? > I just called Summit Racing and they only had 2 sets of wires that would fit > this motor. > Any suggestions would be appreciated, > — > Dave Earle

Response:

Plug access is not bad.  The PITA is routing the driver’s side plug wires under and through the upper intake to the plugs. I fought this one, but managed to get it done with limited trouble. You may have to get creative  It’s definatly a DIY job though.  Good luck!  >ts time to do plugs and wires in my 97 Limited with 4.0 SOHC motor.  I have >a few questions before I start this task.  Is this a difficult job?

Mike 1997 Explorer Lowered with KYB Shocks Soon:  2003 Cobra Wheels

Response:

Well, I changed mine about 6 months ago.  It took over 2 hours.  Mostly because I’d go cross-eyed cussing out the ford engineers for not giving me more room to swing the ratchet and have to stop for a beer and calm down. Don’t start this if you have to go somewhere in an hour. I had to go up from the wheel well for the passenger side plugs (back two) and even getting the rubber splash shield off down there was a PITA. —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Its time to do plugs and wires in my 97 Limited with 4.0 SOHC motor.  I have > a few questions before I start this task.  Is this a difficult job?  I’ve > looked around under the hood and the passenger side looks very cluttered > with stuff and it looks almost impossible to get to the back plug.  Is this > plug accessible from underneath the truck?  Any tips/tricks I should know > about?  Does anyone have any recommendations on what plugs and wires to use? > I just called Summit Racing and they only had 2 sets of wires that would fit > this motor. > Any suggestions would be appreciated, > — > Dave Earle

Response:

Its time to do plugs and wires in my 97 Limited with 4.0 SOHC motor.  I have a few questions before I start this task.  Is this a difficult job?  I’ve looked around under the hood and the passenger side looks very cluttered with stuff and it looks almost impossible to get to the back plug.  Is this plug accessible from underneath the truck?  Any tips/tricks I should know about?  Does anyone have any recommendations on what plugs and wires to use? I just called Summit Racing and they only had 2 sets of wires that would fit this motor. Any suggestions would be appreciated, — Dave Earle

Response:

Question:

Hey all. Was driving home from hitting golfballs this morning, and the check engine light came on in my 1997 explorer xlt.  I pulled over and did the normal stuff: check that the gas cap is tight, restarted, revved it up….  Anyhow.  got home and checked the oil level which was normal (albight a little on the dark side) but the oil smelled a bit like gas. Could gas have gotten into the oil system?  Have a blown a ring or something? Please let me know (by direct email if possible) scoot_44*AT*yahoo.com Thanks a bunch

Response:

Sorry, if you can’t be bothered to check for responses, I can’t be bothered to e-mail…. Fuel can make it’s way into the oil pan through either the fuel pressure regulator or the evaporative emissions system – either should give an indication through additional running problems. Short trips with allowing the engine to completely warm up can also lend a gassy smell to the oil. Whether the CEL is still on or not, the should be a code stored in the PCM…. have this read and then determine if it is a symptom code or a cause code. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey all. > Was driving home from hitting golfballs this morning, and the check > engine light came on in my 1997 explorer xlt.  I pulled over and did the > normal stuff: check that the gas cap is tight, restarted, revved it > up….  Anyhow.  got home and checked the oil level which was normal > (albight a little on the dark side) but the oil smelled a bit like gas. > Could gas have gotten into the oil system?  Have a blown a ring or > something? > Please let me know (by direct email if possible) > scoot_44*AT*yahoo.com > Thanks a bunch

Response:

Question:

I have a 1997 Explorer XLT and whenever the AC or heater is on at all there are random fairly loud clicks that come from somewhere in the engine. Is this normal? AC cold and heater warm, but the clicks are annoying. Thanks for your input. PS: I have had the AC recharged and fixed twice a while ago it was putting out warm air. Dont know if that matters. – Justin

Response:

>I have a 1997 Explorer XLT and whenever the AC or heater is on at all there >are random fairly loud clicks that come from somewhere in the engine. Is >this normal? AC cold and heater warm, but the clicks are annoying. Thanks >for your input. >PS: I have had the AC recharged and fixed twice a while ago it was putting >out warm air. Dont know if that matters. >- Justin

It’s probably the compressor clutch clicking on and off.

Response:

Is that normal, its often, maybe at least once per minute. – Justin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 1997 Explorer XLT and whenever the AC or heater is on at all there >are random fairly loud clicks that come from somewhere in the engine. Is >this normal? AC cold and heater warm, but the clicks are annoying. Thanks >for your input. >PS: I have had the AC recharged and fixed twice a while ago it was putting >out warm air. Dont know if that matters. >- Justin > It’s probably the compressor clutch clicking on and off.

Response:

>Is that normal, its often, maybe at least once per minute.

If it’s cycling that often, you might want to have the pressure checked; you could be low on freon. Or, the temps may just be moderate wher eyou are.

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Question:

Both interior rear door handles on my 1997 Explorer XLT failed within 10 days of each other last month. Is this the ultimate in planned obsolescence or is there a problem I haven’t been advised of? It seems to me that loss of functioning rear doors would be a safety concern however if you activate the childproofing feature it has the same effect. The only difference here is that I don’t want to trap my passengers in the rear seat! Martin

Response:

I have that problem on 98 XLT on one side. They say it a plastic cam inside the door. The only problem with technology is, they charge 10 time more to fix it. Never though about being trapped,if both door were broken. To this day I don’t know what happen to mine. I just carry small children in the back, they must be stronger then the plastic parts. — "Damn the torpedoes,full speed ahead!" Admiral David Glasow Farragut, U.S.N Battle of Mobile Bay 1864

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Both interior rear door handles on my 1997 Explorer XLT failed within 10 > days of each other last month. > Is this the ultimate in planned obsolescence or is there a problem I haven’t > been advised of? > It seems to me that loss of functioning rear doors would be a safety concern > however if you activate the childproofing feature it has the same effect. > The only difference here is that I don’t want to trap my passengers in the > rear seat! > Martin

Response:

Yeah my driver side passager door had the same problem.. Seem common

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Both interior rear door handles on my 1997 Explorer XLT failed within 10 > days of each other last month. > Is this the ultimate in planned obsolescence or is there a problem I haven’t > been advised of? > It seems to me that loss of functioning rear doors would be a safety concern > however if you activate the childproofing feature it has the same effect. > The only difference here is that I don’t want to trap my passengers in the > rear seat! > Martin

Response:

Had it happen on one of mine and hoping it won’t happen on the other. Quite a pain to always open my kid’s door for her.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Both interior rear door handles on my 1997 Explorer XLT failed within 10 > days of each other last month. > Is this the ultimate in planned obsolescence or is there a problem I haven’t > been advised of? > It seems to me that loss of functioning rear doors would be a safety concern > however if you activate the childproofing feature it has the same effect. > The only difference here is that I don’t want to trap my passengers in the > rear seat! > Martin

Response:

Happened on my 97XLT. Dealer charged $30.00 labor  + $12.02 for parts.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Both interior rear door handles on my 1997 Explorer XLT failed within 10 > days of each other last month. > Is this the ultimate in planned obsolescence or is there a problem I haven’t > been advised of? > It seems to me that loss of functioning rear doors would be a safety concern > however if you activate the childproofing feature it has the same effect. > The only difference here is that I don’t want to trap my passengers in the > rear seat! > Martin

Response:

My rear passenger side door has had this happen twice now. The first time the dealer fixed on warranty and that lasted 3 years then again. BTW mine is a 92XLT. Also that is a door that rarely got used so the assembly they changed was replaced with one just as crappy as the first. Not happy with that but just living with the inconvenience.  So it looks like this old problem is still ongoing.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Both interior rear door handles on my 1997 Explorer XLT failed within 10 > days of each other last month. > Is this the ultimate in planned obsolescence or is there a problem I haven’t > been advised of? > It seems to me that loss of functioning rear doors would be a safety concern > however if you activate the childproofing feature it has the same effect. > The only difference here is that I don’t want to trap my passengers in the > rear seat! > Martin

Response:

Ditto, mainly driver side.  Sometimes pass. Got in the back the other day to eay lunch with wife and newborn ….then, couldnt’ get out !! ! ! !!  C-sectioned wife had to come around and let me out!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Both interior rear door handles on my 1997 Explorer XLT failed within 10 > days of each other last month. > Is this the ultimate in planned obsolescence or is there a problem I haven’t > been advised of? > It seems to me that loss of functioning rear doors would be a safety concern > however if you activate the childproofing feature it has the same effect. > The only difference here is that I don’t want to trap my passengers in the > rear seat! > Martin

Response:

>Both interior rear door handles on my 1997 Explorer XLT failed within 10 >days of each other last month

Easy to replace.  Costs about $10 at the dealer.

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Question:

My 1997 XLT 4.0 V6 Automatic 26K has an intermittent stalling/hesitation problem that has occurred since new, Seems to occur when pulling out into traffic from a stop and seems more frequent when pulling out into a left turn. May occur more frequently when the fuel tank is less that half full. It often occurs when the engine is warm then shut down for 30-40 mins and restarted and driven off again. The car will hesitate for a few seconds and regain power and operate normally afterwards. It never stalls to the point of having to restart. After 2 years of complaining, Tallahassee Ford has replaced the idle air control and spark plugs and reprogrammed one of the computers with no help at all. Anyone out there have a fix for this problem?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 1997 XLT 4.0 V6 Automatic 26K has an intermittent stalling/hesitation > problem that has occurred since new, Seems to occur when pulling out into > traffic from a stop and seems more frequent when pulling out into a left > turn. May occur more frequently when the fuel tank is less that half full. > It often occurs when the engine is warm then shut down for 30-40 mins and > restarted and driven off again. The car will hesitate for a few seconds and > regain power and operate normally afterwards. It never stalls to the point > of having to restart. After 2 years of complaining, Tallahassee Ford has > replaced the idle air control and spark plugs and reprogrammed one of the > computers with no help at all. Anyone out there have a fix for this problem?

If you have the SOHC 4.0L then have your dealer reprogram your PCM under your extended emissions warranty per TSB 99-8-7. I had my ‘97 SOHC done about 18 months ago and haven’t had it hesitate since. It had hesitated 7-10 times during its first 18 months. Part of the text from the TSB is: "ISSUE The vehicle may have one or all of the following symptoms: ^ After vehicle comes to almost a complete stop (approximately 5 km/h (3 mph)) and then accelerates, the transmission may still be in 3rd gear which may cause a perceived lack of power. ^ After vehicle comes to almost a complete stop (approximately 5 km/h (3 mph)), a harsh 3rd-to-1st gear downshift occurs. ^ After a long highway drive followed by a complete stop, a quick acceleration by the customer may result in a perceived lack of power. ^ Acceleration from a stop (city driving) may cause a hesitation. These concerns may be caused by Powertrain Control Module (PCM) calibration strategy. ACTION Reprogram the PCM using New Generation Star (NGS) or Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS)." — Robert

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Question:

Recently I purchased a 1997 XLT 4dr 4WD with the SOHC V6.  It has the Auto/4WDhi/4WDlow settings on the dash switch.  In the last 2 weeks, after being parked for a while, when I get in and start off, it feels like my front hubs are stuck in 4 wheel drive, even though I have not engaged the system.  I back up to disengage the hubs and this sometimes works.  I also go to 4wd and the light comes on the dash to let me know the hubs engaged.  I go back to auto, back up and drive and it seems to take care of this.  Last night, after a difficult time in getting it to disengage, my 4wd hi and low lights blinked for over a 2 mile trip to the grocery store.  On the way home, they did not reappear.  Is this a speed sensor problem that causes the hub to engage?  It seems like its the passenger side wheel that is sticking.  It is usual for this to engage without going into the 4WD hi setting?  Any advise will be helpful before I seek out a mechanic.  PS  Mileage is 58K, so out of warranty. Greg

Response:

The wheels on the standard 4wd 1997 Explorer are always connected to the axles and there are no disconnecting hubs, auto or manual. This is different than early Explorers before Control trac. In the Auto position the front wheels are getting around 5% of the available power, which increases as the automatic system detects rear wheel slippage. Switching to 4WD-Hi or -Lo basically locks the transfer case to provide a 50/50 split of power without waiting for wheel slippage. However, if the computer gets confused about whether a rear wheel is slipping, usually because of bad speed data from one of the Hall effect speed sensors in the transfer case, it will first try to lock up the t-case to stop what it thinks is slippage, and if it persists it disconnects and flashes those lights as an error signal. Replacing the sensor isn’t a particularly big deal, and reports that just cleaning them (or the electrical connections) has helped have been posted. The GEM computer should also store the error code for the problem. Good Luck.   =Vic= Bear Gap, PA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Recently I purchased a 1997 XLT 4dr 4WD with the SOHC V6.  It has the > Auto/4WDhi/4WDlow settings on the dash switch.  In the last 2 weeks, > after being parked for a while, when I get in and start off, it feels > like my front hubs are stuck in 4 wheel drive, even though I have not > engaged the system.  I back up to disengage the hubs and this sometimes > works.  I also go to 4wd and the light comes on the dash to let me know > the hubs engaged.  I go back to auto, back up and drive and it seems to > take care of this.  Last night, after a difficult time in getting it to > disengage, my 4wd hi and low lights blinked for over a 2 mile trip to > the grocery store.  On the way home, they did not reappear.  Is this a > speed sensor problem that causes the hub to engage?  It seems like its > the passenger side wheel that is sticking.  It is usual for this to > engage without going into the 4WD hi setting?  Any advise will be > helpful before I seek out a mechanic.  PS  Mileage is 58K, so out of > warranty. > Greg

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Question:

I recently bought a used 1997 Explorer XLT with remote keyless entry (keypad), but I don’t have the code for it.  I’ve read on Expeditions that the factory code is labeled on the ‘Remote Anti-Theft Personality (RAP) Module’, but I can’t locate it.  Does anyone know where this is located?

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Open the rear hatch and inside, open the jack storage compartment on the left side. Use a flashlight and look forward.  On top of the wheel well is a box with a paper tag on it.  The code is in bold numbers and is 5 digits. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I recently bought a used 1997 Explorer XLT with remote keyless entry > (keypad), but I don’t have the code for it.  I’ve read on Expeditions that > the factory code is labeled on the ‘Remote Anti-Theft Personality (RAP) > Module’, but I can’t locate it.  Does anyone know where this is located?

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Thank You – It was exactly where you said it would be.  I appreciate the help! Tim Budelier

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Open the rear hatch and inside, open the jack storage compartment on the > left side. > Use a flashlight and look forward.  On top of the wheel well is a box > with a paper tag on it.  The code is in bold numbers and is 5 digits. > I recently bought a used 1997 Explorer XLT with remote keyless entry > (keypad), but I don’t have the code for it.  I’ve read on Expeditions that > the factory code is labeled on the ‘Remote Anti-Theft Personality (RAP) > Module’, but I can’t locate it.  Does anyone know where this is located?

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Check in the back luggage compartment in the side compartment where the jack is stored.  That’s where my dealer looked to find the number. Rick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I recently bought a used 1997 Explorer XLT with remote keyless entry >(keypad), but I don’t have the code for it.  I’ve read on Expeditions that >the factory code is labeled on the ‘Remote Anti-Theft Personality (RAP) >Module’, but I can’t locate it.  Does anyone know where this is located?

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Question:

>Possibilities?…thermostat? water pump?

To my knowledge, I’m the only one that has had the experience of a t-stat failing in the closed position on an Explorer.  If your red engine-overheat light is not coming on, it’s not the t-stat.  Check temp sender or gauge. Regards, Bob

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> My 1997 Explorer with the  V6 4.0 Liter SOHC engine  has just indicated > over heating via the dash gage. Coolent level  is ok and systems check > indicates engine temperature:ok.  Possibilities?…thermostat? water pump? > gage?. Milage: 43K.

My 95 did that about a year ago.  One second it’s OK, the next it’s pegged on "H" … but in my case the ‘check gauges’ light would also come on.  Wait another minute, and it would fall right back to normal. It never actually overheated.  Final kicker was when I got in the truck one morning and when I turned on the key, the gauge when to half-way before I’d even started the thing. I had replaced the stat, and sending unit.  Turned out to be the gauge itself.  Go figure. …Ron

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Your not alone with the stuck closed t-stat.  My friends 99 Explorer experienced the same problem.  Dealer towed it in and replaced the thermostat under warranty.  Could be a common problem!!!!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Possibilities?…thermostat? water pump? > To my knowledge, I’m the only one that has had the experience of a t-stat > failing in the closed position on an Explorer.  If your red engine-overheat > light is not coming on, it’s not the t-stat.  Check temp sender or gauge. > Regards, > Bob

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Dunno about common problem….. two years ago my dealer asked me to have it towed there after they sent it out as fixed having changed the fan clutch for $275 and then it overheated and emptied itself in a car park (2 days later). Furious, I got AAA to take it back to them whereupon they insisted I pay $1400 to have the heads off and have a look for cracks. I went through it with them, one step at a time and they agreed to try the t’stat first. It fixed it. After a couple of curt letters, they refunded my $275! That’s why I got the wrenches (spanners) out after 14 years ……. all over a stuck t’stat Spider 1991 EB 4×4….156,000 miles

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your not alone with the stuck closed t-stat.  My friends 99 Explorer > experienced the same problem.  Dealer towed it in and replaced the > thermostat under warranty.  Could be a common problem!!!! > >Possibilities?…thermostat? water pump? > To my knowledge, I’m the only one that has had the experience of a t-stat > failing in the closed position on an Explorer.  If your red > engine-overheat > light is not coming on, it’s not the t-stat.  Check temp sender or gauge. > Regards, > Bob

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My 1997 Explorer with the  V6 4.0 Liter SOHC engine  has just indicated over heating via the dash gage. Coolent level  is ok and systems check indicates engine temperature:ok.  Possibilities?…thermostat? water pump? gage?. Milage: 43K.

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>My 1997 Explorer with the  V6 4.0 Liter SOHC engine  has just indicated >over heating via the dash gage. Coolent level  is ok and systems check >indicates engine temperature:ok.  Possibilities?…thermostat? water pump? >gage?. Milage: 43K.

Saw the same thing happen on an Escort.  I would give the top of the dash a good wack with my hand and the gauge would return to normal. The engine was not exceedingly hot so the gauge was in error. Might be a bad sensor,  loose connection to the circuit board behind the dash or the cable to the sensor getting grounded, if the gauge still works on a ground being applied makes the temp go up. Gary

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