Posts belonging to Category '1997 Explorer'

1997 Exp. Sport Alarm

Question:

Dealerships won’t spend a lot of time… Probably locked the door then immediately unlocked it.  Alarm didn’t get a chance to arm. Try this… park it and lock it then go get the service writer.  Unlock the drivers door and show him the alarm sounding. Then there will be no doubt! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve got a similar problem with my 1994 Limited. *I* use the key because one > of the key fobs stopping working and so I gave the working one to my wife. I > guess you’ve just got bad aim if you’re scratching the paint with your key. > My problem is that if I unlock the driver door with the key, the alarm will > go off, but if I unlock the passenger door with the key, it’s disarmed like > it’s supposed to. Similar problem with the key fob: if you press the > ‘unlock’ button once and only unlock the driver’s door, the alarm will still > go off. Press the ‘unlock’ button twice (to unlock the rest of the doors) > and it gets disarmed. > The dealer had it for an oil change and I mentioned the problem to a service > advisor. They couldn’t get the alarm to go off at all, so they were no help. > I popped the door panel off this weekend and looked around at the locking > mechanism to see if I could spot any loose/corroded wires, but no luck…..

Response:

>I have a 1997 Explorer sport with SOHC 4.0 and I have to use the keypad and >punch in my code ‘or’ use the remote to unlock it because if I use the key >to unlock it and when I open the door the alarm sounds

THere is a sensor that tells the alarm to disarm if you use the key in the driver door or the rear hatch, yours must be bad.

Response:

>I have a 1997 Explorer sport with SOHC 4.0 and I have to use the keypad and >punch in my code ‘or’ use the remote to unlock it because if I use the key >to unlock it and when I open the door the alarm sounds and I have to push >the panic button on my remote. Does anyone out there have the same problem? >It is not a big deal just wish I could lock my car and not have to rely on >the keypad or remote for unlocking all of the time. Thanks, Chris

Can you open the rear hatch and passenger door with the key and without setting off the alarm? If so, then I suspect that it is th sensor on your driver’d door that is connected to the mecanical lock (probably inside the door panel). If you can’t open any door with the key without setting off the alarm, it is probably an electronic problem in the GEM. My ‘97 will turn off the alarm when I use the key. Robert * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

I have a 1997 Explorer sport with SOHC 4.0 and I have to use the keypad and punch in my code ‘or’ use the remote to unlock it because if I use the key to unlock it and when I open the door the alarm sounds and I have to push the panic button on my remote. Does anyone out there have the same problem? It is not a big deal just wish I could lock my car and not have to rely on the keypad or remote for unlocking all of the time. Thanks, Chris

Response:

> I have a 1997 Explorer sport with SOHC 4.0 and I have to use the keypad and > punch in my code ‘or’ use the remote to unlock it because if I use the key > to unlock it and when I open the door the alarm sounds and I have to push > the panic button on my remote. Does anyone out there have the same problem? > It is not a big deal just wish I could lock my car and not have to rely on > the keypad or remote for unlocking all of the time. Thanks, Chris

Isn’t it the function of the alarm to sound if the door is opened without shutting the alarm off? IOW, isn’t the alarm doing what it’s supposed to do? — Bill Funk  Doesn’t a lightning rod  on a church steeple  shows a lack of faith?

Response:

That’s odd… why would you want to use a key? Pain in the ass and risk scratching the paint. Since keyless entry I don’t think I’ve ever used the key. in fact I can’t answer your question because I’ve always used the remote. ~J

I have a 1997 Explorer sport with SOHC 4.0 and I have to use the keypad and punch in my code ‘or’ use the remote to unlock it because if I use the key to unlock it and when I open the door the alarm sounds and I have to push the panic button on my remote. Does anyone out there have the same problem? It is not a big deal just wish I could lock my car and not have to rely on the keypad or remote for unlocking all of the time. Thanks, Chris

Response:

> > I have a 1997 Explorer sport with SOHC 4.0 and I have to use the keypad and > punch in my code ‘or’ use the remote to unlock it because if I use the key > to unlock it and when I open the door the alarm sounds and I have to push > the panic button on my remote. Does anyone out there have the same problem? > It is not a big deal just wish I could lock my car and not have to rely on > the keypad or remote for unlocking all of the time. Thanks, Chris > Isn’t it the function of the alarm to sound if the door is opened without > shutting the alarm off? > IOW, isn’t the alarm doing what it’s supposed to do?

The alarm is supposed to be disabled when you unlock the door with the key. There is a switch in the door that’s probably misadjusted or broken.

Response:

I’ve got a similar problem with my 1994 Limited. *I* use the key because one of the key fobs stopping working and so I gave the working one to my wife. I guess you’ve just got bad aim if you’re scratching the paint with your key. My problem is that if I unlock the driver door with the key, the alarm will go off, but if I unlock the passenger door with the key, it’s disarmed like it’s supposed to. Similar problem with the key fob: if you press the ‘unlock’ button once and only unlock the driver’s door, the alarm will still go off. Press the ‘unlock’ button twice (to unlock the rest of the doors) and it gets disarmed. The dealer had it for an oil change and I mentioned the problem to a service advisor. They couldn’t get the alarm to go off at all, so they were no help. I popped the door panel off this weekend and looked around at the locking mechanism to see if I could spot any loose/corroded wires, but no luck….. Any suggestions?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> That’s odd… why would you want to use a key? Pain in the ass and risk > scratching the paint. Since keyless entry I don’t think I’ve ever used the > key. in fact I can’t answer your question because I’ve always used the > remote. > ~J > I have a 1997 Explorer sport with SOHC 4.0 and I have to use the keypad and > punch in my code ‘or’ use the remote to unlock it because if I use the key > to unlock it and when I open the door the alarm sounds and I have to push > the panic button on my remote. Does anyone out there have the same problem? > It is not a big deal just wish I could lock my car and not have to rely on > the keypad or remote for unlocking all of the time. Thanks, Chris

Response:

Wipers

Question:

Hello everyone.  I’m new to the NG, and somewhat new to bass fishing.  I was wondering if anyone fishes for wipers (white/striped bass hybrid) besides me. From my experience, they fight as well or better than smallies, although they are harder to find, as they are more open water fish.  I usually look for a flock of gulls feeding on shad where the wipers have scared them to the surface.

Response:

Yep, some of my favorite fishing on Lake Texoma is for hybrid / stripers. Tom Wilson Dallas, TX

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hello everyone.  I’m new to the NG, and somewhat new to bass fishing.  I was >wondering if anyone fishes for wipers (white/striped bass hybrid) besides me. >From my experience, they fight as well or better than smallies, although they >are harder to find, as they are more open water fish.  I usually look for a >flock of gulls feeding on shad where the wipers have scared them to the >surface.

Response:

Every so often around here, we get "runs" of hybrids. The will boil the surface for just a couple of minutes in a feeding frenzy. You can cast just about anything and catch them. But after about five minutes, that’s it. they’re gone. You can follow them around the lake too!  They will boil in place, then you start watching for them elswhere. It can be fun chasing them all over. Generally, it’s usually mid to late summer for these runs, dawn and twilight are the best times. I have seen the come up just after a storm has rolled through as well. — John Diel Ponca City, Ok. www.2stupiddogs.net Oklahoma Fishing Reports & More!

Response:

I find twilight the best time too…never tried dawn…I only fish for gentleman fish that wake up after 9:00 am….hehehe

Response:

hi!! I’m about to inherit a 91 Cavalier (if you’ve been here for a while, you’re probably sick of me asking questions…..sorry!!).  I drove it today and when through the car wash.  When I came out (of course), it started pouring rain.  Well, I put the wipers on low (no intermittent) and they were, as I said, slow.  I put them on hi, and they weren’t much faster.  This is in pouring rain.  The wipers were screaching on the window or anything like that.  Is there any way of fixing this?  This could be hazardous when it is raining!! Thanks, Dave

Response:

You may need a replacement wiper motor/transmission from a junkyard. They are not too difficult to replace with usual tools. If you can find a DIY yard, go pull the "new" one. You’ll learn all you need to know in the process. And keep some of the extra fasteners, washers, etc. to replace those you’ll surely lose in the grass. Trickiest part will probably be removing the cowl to get at the motor. As I recall there is a horizontal phillips-head screw at each front corner which is often overlooked. Parts cost may be $10 or $15. A good yard may be able to apply power and assure you the motor is good, but they may give a 30 day guarantee. (That just lets you do it again free if the first motor is no good.) Enjoy, Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hi!! > I’m about to inherit a 91 Cavalier (if you’ve been here for a while, you’re > probably sick of me asking questions…..sorry!!).  I drove it today and > when through the car wash.  When I came out (of course), it started pouring > rain.  Well, I put the wipers on low (no intermittent) and they were, as I > said, slow.  I put them on hi, and they weren’t much faster.  This is in > pouring rain.  The wipers were screaching on the window or anything like > that.  Is there any way of fixing this?  This could be hazardous when it is > raining!! > Thanks, > Dave

Response:

I have asked this same question. It goes unanswered.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The right wiper blade on my 1997 Explorer parks partly off the glass.  I can’t > see any apparent way to adjust it and my manual doesn’t show it either.  I think > it must have been frozen sometime this past winter when the wipers were turned > on and something slipped. > Any tips on fixing this?  Thanx.

Response:

> > The right wiper blade on my 1997 Explorer parks partly off the glass. > I can’t see any apparent way to adjust it and my manual > doesn’t show it either.  I think it must have been frozen sometime > this past winter when the wipers were turned on and something slipped. > Any tips on fixing this?  Thanx. > I have asked this same question. It goes unanswered.

My sister’s got a ‘97 Explorer & I repositioned her wiper arms because they both rested below the windshield. It took about 10 seconds each. I recall there were small tabbed levers that I pulled away from the arms, then lifted the arms off the splined shafts and put them back a notch higher. Those little tabs were almost unnoticeable, look closely.

Response:

Like my question about the rear window latch!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have asked this same question. It goes unanswered. > The right wiper blade on my 1997 Explorer parks partly off the glass.  I > can’t > see any apparent way to adjust it and my manual doesn’t show it either. I > think > it must have been frozen sometime this past winter when the wipers were > turned > on and something slipped. > Any tips on fixing this?  Thanx.

Response:

> … I had to gring a big notch inside the hub of the nylon

I remember now, I actually had to *grind* it.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> > The right wiper blade on my 1997 Explorer parks partly off the glass. >>> > I can’t see any apparent way to adjust it and my manual >>> > doesn’t show it either.  I think it must have been frozen sometime >>> > this past winter when the wipers were turned on and something slipped. >>> > Any tips on fixing this?  Thanx. >>> I have asked this same question. It goes unanswered. >>My sister’s got a ‘97 Explorer & I repositioned her wiper arms because they >>both rested below the windshield. It took about 10 seconds each. I recall >>there were small tabbed levers that I pulled away from the arms, then >>lifted the arms off the splined shafts and put them back a notch higher. >>Those little tabs were almost unnoticeable, look closely. > The spines are there alright, but, there is a locating "bump" that only allows > the arm(s) to be in one position.  I suspect there is something else that can be > adjusted, possibly under the plastic panel across under the glass.

We know that "specifications are subject to change due to continual product improvements". Now I wonder if it got improved by adding the bump or taking away the bump. My Haynes manual doesn’t note bumps for any of the model years ‘91 thru ‘99. But, yeah, under the plastic cowl is the linkage between the splined spindles and the motor. If you don’t find a problem there, something might have slipped in the motor/gear assembly. That happened to my VW bus, a nylon gear slipped on the knurled steel shaft that it was molded onto. I had to gring a big notch inside the hub of the nylon gear and key it to the shaft with a custom engineered JB Weld bump.

Response:

On mine they are keyed so that they only fit in one position.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > The right wiper blade on my 1997 Explorer parks partly off the glass. > > I can’t see any apparent way to adjust it and my manual > > doesn’t show it either.  I think it must have been frozen sometime > > this past winter when the wipers were turned on and something slipped. > > Any tips on fixing this?  Thanx. > I have asked this same question. It goes unanswered. > My sister’s got a ‘97 Explorer & I repositioned her wiper arms because they > both rested below the windshield. It took about 10 seconds each. I recall > there were small tabbed levers that I pulled away from the arms, then > lifted the arms off the splined shafts and put them back a notch higher. > Those little tabs were almost unnoticeable, look closely.

Response:

NO !!!!!

Response:

> NO !!!!!

Does your reply mean there is no such recalibration on no to have the dealer replace the BCM. Brian

Response:

Have you tried calling the Chrysler number in your manual on this.  Phantom wipers are a common problem.  Maybe your dealer damaged something trying to fix it.  You might search this group using Phantom wiper to see the history on the problem at deja.com.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help, > I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager.  In Jan 99 the wipers were going off on their > own so the dealer replaced the multi function switch and recalibrated the > panel.  Currently the on/off does not work; however, the mist function and > the wiper delay do.  All fuses are fine.  There is power to the switch. > What is wrong?  The dealer wants to replace the BCM for $500.  The dealer I > took it to has never heard of "recalibrating the wiper module".  Is there > such a procedure. > Much thanks for reading,

Response:

Help, I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager.  In Jan 99 the wipers were going off on their own so the dealer replaced the multi function switch and recalibrated the panel.  Currently the on/off does not work; however, the mist function and the wiper delay do.  All fuses are fine.  There is power to the switch. What is wrong?  The dealer wants to replace the BCM for $500.  The dealer I took it to has never heard of "recalibrating the wiper module".  Is there such a procedure. Much thanks for reading,

Response:

NO !!!!!

Response:

> NO !!!!!

Does your reply mean there is no such recalibration on no to have the dealer replace the BCM. Brian

Response:

Have you tried calling the Chrysler number in your manual on this.  Phantom wipers are a common problem.  Maybe your dealer damaged something trying to fix it.  You might search this group using Phantom wiper to see the history on the problem at deja.com.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help, > I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager.  In Jan 99 the wipers were going off on their > own so the dealer replaced the multi function switch and recalibrated the > panel.  Currently the on/off does not work; however, the mist function and > the wiper delay do.  All fuses are fine.  There is power to the switch. > What is wrong?  The dealer wants to replace the BCM for $500.  The dealer I > took it to has never heard of "recalibrating the wiper module".  Is there > such a procedure. > Much thanks for reading,

Response:

Help, I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager.  In Jan 99 the wipers were going off on their own so the dealer replaced the multi function switch and recalibrated the panel.  Currently the on/off does not work; however, the mist function and the wiper delay do.  All fuses are fine.  There is power to the switch. What is wrong?  The dealer wants to replace the BCM for $500.  The dealer I took it to has never heard of "recalibrating the wiper module".  Is there such a procedure. Much thanks for reading,

Response:

K&N FILTER – NEED YOUR HELP PPL!

Question:

> Seems to me it’s clear who the asshole is, David A. Cooley and it looks > like it comes naturally to you. The original poster said nothing to > deserve your idiotic response. I’ll go out on a limb here and surmise > you’re a short, little dork with a huge case of > "small-man-in-a-big-truck" syndrome. Why don’t you go bother the people > in alt.wanker instead. It’s clear you would fit right in.

I was thinking the same thing after reading his posts.

Response:

Mr. Cooley, Not to be disrespectful but, you are being extremely obnoxious in your responses.   In my fifteen years as a mechanic, I have seen the effects of these oiled cotton filters.  They are OK for a short period but, as time degrades the filtering media, they do indeed allow a great amount of dirt to bypass them into the intake system and is evident in the deposits I have seen on the filtered side.   American Honda has done research into the best filtering media in terms of life vs effectiveness.  There engineers agree that while a gauze filter (K&N) may have a longer service life, its effectiveness rapidly decreases as the "cotton" wears thin. Try this, pour some dirty oil thru a gauze filter, then thru an OEM paper filter.  See the difference?  Some may state that a properly oiled K&N is equivalent but, the term is "properly".  How many people know what this is or take the time to even bother at all.  The fact is people see these ads about BIG performance and mileage gains and are immediately sold on there product. It is all BS, there are no "free" gains when it comes in terms of internal combustion engines.  The manufacturers spend thousands of hour testing and tweaking there products for the best overall performance in terms of power and longevity.  Do you think if they could squeeze out any more power or mileage (to please the EPA) then they would indeed use this *superior* filter?   While my opinions are just that, opinions, I feel that there is no substite for a paper air filter in tems of engine performance and protection.   Regards, TMS – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Had you read the instructions, Asshole, you would have found that K&N >recomends you check and re-oil FREQUENTLY in off-road/dusty situations.

Response:

you have to oil them extra for off-road uses… — 92′ EB Explorer, JBL, 4×4, Catback & K&N http://home1.gte.net/1ateam/explorer/index.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My info. is based on the 7.3 diesel pickup I had. At 50,000 miles of off > road driving with the stock air filter, it would plug up on regular > intervals causing the air restriction gauge to read 100% restriction. > I then opted for a washable, reusable K&N to save money on air filter > replacements. After another 10,000 miles with the K&N, the air filter > restriction gauge read 25% restriction. I checked the filter anyway. I found > a load of dust inside the intake tube all the way to the turbo. The edges of > the turbo blades were rounded, not excessively worn, but had noticeable wear > which was not there before the K&N. At that time I trashed the K&N and went > back to using the stock air filters. > I guess if you just use your vehicle to drive to the mall, the K&N should be > ok. If you use your vehicle off road or dusty areas, I recommend not to use > them, based on my own personal experience. > Clueless Troll > And you base your info on what, Einstein? > I’ve had 5 different vehicles with K&N filters in them all their lives, > and on the 2 I tore down for other problems (I caused), there was NO > wear in the cylinders… no ridge etc.  Dust coming in the intake would > wear the heck out of the rings.  Both had over 100K when I tore into > them. > Get a clue, Troll!

Response:

> > Forget the K&N filter. If you insist on a

K&N, just remove the stock air > filter and leave the air box empty. The

results will be the same, you get an > engine full of dust. Or just put an oily rag in the air box. > And you base your info on what, Einstein? > I’ve had 5 different vehicles with K&N filters

in them all their lives, > and on the 2 I tore down for other problems (I

caused), there was NO > wear in the cylinders… no ridge etc.  Dust

coming in the intake would > wear the heck out of the rings.  Both had over

100K when I tore into > them. > Get a clue, Troll!

Get a clue troll is right!! I’ve had a K&N on for about 25,000 Km,  I did notice a slight increase in mileage.  I have also had the air intake ducting coming from the MAF to the intake apart for other service – I checked the insides and there were absolutely no signs of oiling or dirt,  it was as clean as a whistle!! Blow that one out your ear! Before you buy.

Response:

Think what you want. Your so far off your about to fall into the north sea. Stupid fucking canuck! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Seems to me it’s clear who the asshole is, David A. Cooley and it looks > like it comes naturally to you. The original poster said nothing to > deserve your idiotic response. I’ll go out on a limb here and surmise > you’re a short, little dork with a huge case of > "small-man-in-a-big-truck" syndrome. Why don’t you go bother the people > in alt.wanker instead. It’s clear you would fit right in.

Response:

> Seems to me it’s clear who the asshole is, David A. Cooley and it looks > like it comes naturally to you. The original poster said nothing to > deserve your idiotic response. I’ll go out on a limb here and surmise > you’re a short, little dork with a huge case of > "small-man-in-a-big-truck" syndrome. Why don’t you go bother the people > in alt.wanker instead. It’s clear you would fit right in.

You canadians think your so bad then come on down and see if your "thought" was right… Ever had the shit kicked out of you by a 7 foot tall 280lb man? Bring it on and you will!

Response:

I just installed a K&N filter in my 94 F150 5.0L.  A performance improvement was immediately noticable.  The engine has more power.  I have found that I no longer need to tromp the gas to pass whereas before the transmission was constatly down-shifting to make power.  Basically it takes less foot to get the job done.  I track milage but haven’t ran more than a tank or two through it since so I don’t know if milage has improved – I suspect it has.  Perhaps the larger 5.0L has a bigger payoff since more air is being sucked through roughly the same size filter element as the V6.  As for MAF getting oily, I’ve heard this before.  We’ll see what happens. Haven’t heard enough bad reports to be afraid to try.  I will be careful not to over oil the element though. In article <T1P44.729 > ‘98 Sport SOHC… I tried the K&N filter that

replaces the stock filter. (no > modifications to the stock air box) I found NO

improvement in performance or > fuel economy. I have taken it out due to

concerns about the ‘OILED" filters > getting the mass air flow sensors dirty. Mike > "ManikExplorer"

message 073.remarq.com… > Hello PPls! >        Have any of you installed a K&n on a 1997 explorer > V6 SOHC before??? I need to know whether they work or > not… or have any of you experience any problems with it?? > Should i go for it?? thanks !!! > * Sent from AltaVista

http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find > related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos,

News, and Shopping.  Smart is > Beautiful

Before you buy.

Response:

> Think what you want. > Your so far off your about to fall into the north sea. > Stupid fucking canuck! > Seems to me it’s clear who the asshole is, David A. Cooley and it looks > like it comes naturally to you. The original poster said nothing to > deserve your idiotic response. I’ll go out on a limb here and surmise > you’re a short, little dork with a huge case of > "small-man-in-a-big-truck" syndrome. Why don’t you go bother the people > in alt.wanker instead. It’s clear you would fit right in.

The North Sea is up England way. Your idiotic comment, Cooley, just proves that, not only are you a little goof in a big truck, you also failed Geography in high school. For you to condemn someone for their alleged stupidity is faint praise coming from so apparent a retarded asslicker as yourself. Please do us all a favor and go far, far away, preferably to another galaxy. Like an uncooperative turd lodged in the filthy toilet of some squalid truckstop restroom, you need to be plunged away to a deeper, more watery realm.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Had you read the instructions, Asshole, you would have found that K&N > recomends you check and re-oil FREQUENTLY in off-road/dusty situations. > As you accumulate dust, you wick oil away from the filtration media. > You need to replace the oil to continue to get proper filtration. > Sounds like your problem was caused by being a moron… > Obviously because you owned a "powerjoke" > My info. is based on the 7.3 diesel pickup I had. At 50,000 miles of off > road driving with the stock air filter, it would plug up on regular > intervals causing the air restriction gauge to read 100% restriction. > I then opted for a washable, reusable K&N to save money on air filter > replacements. After another 10,000 miles with the K&N, the air filter > restriction gauge read 25% restriction. I checked the filter anyway. I found > a load of dust inside the intake tube all the way to the turbo. The edges of > the turbo blades were rounded, not excessively worn, but had noticeable wear > which was not there before the K&N. At that time I trashed the K&N and went > back to using the stock air filters. > I guess if you just use your vehicle to drive to the mall, the K&N should be > ok. If you use your vehicle off road or dusty areas, I recommend not to use > them, based on my own personal experience. > Clueless Troll

Seems to me it’s clear who the asshole is, David A. Cooley and it looks like it comes naturally to you. The original poster said nothing to deserve your idiotic response. I’ll go out on a limb here and surmise you’re a short, little dork with a huge case of "small-man-in-a-big-truck" syndrome. Why don’t you go bother the people in alt.wanker instead. It’s clear you would fit right in.

Response:

>Think what you want. >Your so far off your about to fall into the north sea. >Stupid fucking canuck!

This is a really mature, profound thread.   Guy A Ripley, TN

Response:

I want to apologize to everyone. I was WAY out of line.  Just had a relative die, and was told I couldn’t have time off work… Need to direct my anger where it belongs. Thanks, Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Think what you want. >Your so far off your about to fall into the north sea. >Stupid fucking canuck! > This is a really mature, profound thread. > Guy A > Ripley, TN

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Seems to me it’s clear who the asshole is, David A. Cooley and it looks > like it comes naturally to you. The original poster said nothing to > deserve your idiotic response. I’ll go out on a limb here and surmise > you’re a short, little dork with a huge case of > "small-man-in-a-big-truck" syndrome. Why don’t you go bother the people > in alt.wanker instead. It’s clear you would fit right in. > You canadians think your so bad then come on down and see if your > "thought" was right… > Ever had the shit kicked out of you by a 7 foot tall 280lb man? > Bring it on and you will!

Oh, this is priceless. Threatening somebody over the Internet. What an unbelievable loser. I still think you’re a pathetic, short little dork with a huge chip on your shoulder. Now, back to discussing our favourite truck with the normal people in the group. :-)

Response:

I did read the instructions. I checked it at 25% restriction. If damage is done at 25% restriction, then what is the safe area of operation for this filter, 10%?  5%? 1%? With a paper filter you can use the restriction gauge, with the K&N, (I now know) you can’t. This was not in the instructions. Maybe I should have re-oiled it every 10 miles to save the turbo. How frequent should you re-oil in dusty areas anyway? Every week? Every day? You can’t really measure the dust, so, how frequent is "frequent" If the clean city driven 4×4 goes on a camping trip on the dusty trail, should they do the "frequent" re-oil after every trip? Or a few times during the trip? What’s your experience with that? From my experience, I’ll never use a K&N again, and I still compare a K&N with an oil rag. Clueless Troll Asshole Moron who drives a "PowerJoke" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Had you read the instructions, Asshole, you would have found that K&N > recomends you check and re-oil FREQUENTLY in off-road/dusty situations. > As you accumulate dust, you wick oil away from the filtration media. > You need to replace the oil to continue to get proper filtration. > Sounds like your problem was caused by being a moron… > Obviously because you owned a "powerjoke"

Response:

Well, I can see an oil drip from a loose plug or filter. These are pretty much the same on every car. The airbox on the Explorer is somewhat different Mr. Cooley. I had visual evidence that the airbox is a problem. I have not had evidence that they failed to change the oil properly. I use the same shop when possible (i.e. not travelling) and have gotten to know the management and a few of the employees. I’m sure they think I’m just a bit weird, using Mobil 1 and changing every 3,000, but they use my 5 quarts of oil and filter just the same. They told me about the pinion seal leak at 30,000, so they aren’t doing a bad job. On top of that, they are set up to deal with the used oil in an efficient manner. No matter what I do, it will be additional time spent dealling with it appropriately. Lets see, final arguement is $20 for a 10 min oil change vs 1/2+ hr of my time at $100/hr. Its clear to me which is the best choice. YMMV. Clark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve had a K&N on for about 30,000. No problems w/MAF. I am concerned > about the filter Oil when/if I service it. I may not service it, I may just toss > it > and buy another. The dollar comparison isn’t that far apart for 1 paper > filter every 10-12,000 and one K&N every 50,000. I drive unpaved > roads so the K & N makes sense. > I was more concerned about indications that dust was getting past the > filter when ham fisted quick lube shop personnel replaced the filter cover > incorrectly. After looking at the filter housing a bit, it appears to me to be > a questionable design. Anyway, my solution, for now, is to use a filter with > a long change interval. Get the filter housing put together right and don’t mess > If your concern is ham fisted quick lube employees not putting the cover > back on right, why trust them with the oil change as well?  Simple > maintenance you can do for 1/3 the price they charge and you know it’s > done right.

Response:

If the airbox is the only problem and they seem responsible every other way, then maybe bring it to their attention or just check it before you drive off.  Out here, a good quick lube place is hard to find… They hire people that have never seen under the hood, and if they have, don’t know what they are looking at.  They told me I needed to "flush" my washer fluid because it was "all green" the one and only time I went there… They were looking at the radiator coolant overflow bottle… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Well, I can see an oil drip from a loose plug or filter. These are pretty much the > same on every car. The airbox on the Explorer is somewhat different Mr. Cooley. > I had visual evidence that the airbox is a problem. I have not had evidence that > they failed to change the oil properly. I use the same shop when possible (i.e. not > travelling) and have gotten to know the management and a few of the employees. > I’m sure they think I’m just a bit weird, using Mobil 1 and changing every > 3,000, but they use my 5 quarts of oil and filter just the same. They told me > about the pinion seal leak at 30,000, so they aren’t doing a bad job. > On top of that, they are set up to deal with the used oil in an efficient manner. > No matter what I do, it will be additional time spent dealling with it appropriately. > Lets see, final arguement is $20 for a 10 min oil change vs 1/2+ hr of my time at > $100/hr. > Its clear to me which is the best choice. YMMV.

Response:

Forget the K&N filter. If you insist on a K&N, just remove the stock air filter and leave the air box empty. The results will be the same, you get an engine full of dust. Or just put an oily rag in the air box. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello PPls! >        Have any of you installed a K&n on a 1997 explorer > V6 SOHC before??? I need to know whether they work or > not… or have any of you experience any problems with it?? > Should i go for it?? thanks !!!

Response:

> Forget the K&N filter. If you insist on a K&N, just remove the stock air > filter and leave the air box empty. The results will be the same, you get an > engine full of dust. Or just put an oily rag in the air box.

And you base your info on what, Einstein? I’ve had 5 different vehicles with K&N filters in them all their lives, and on the 2 I tore down for other problems (I caused), there was NO wear in the cylinders… no ridge etc.  Dust coming in the intake would wear the heck out of the rings.  Both had over 100K when I tore into them. Get a clue, Troll!

Response:

My info. is based on the 7.3 diesel pickup I had. At 50,000 miles of off road driving with the stock air filter, it would plug up on regular intervals causing the air restriction gauge to read 100% restriction. I then opted for a washable, reusable K&N to save money on air filter replacements. After another 10,000 miles with the K&N, the air filter restriction gauge read 25% restriction. I checked the filter anyway. I found a load of dust inside the intake tube all the way to the turbo. The edges of the turbo blades were rounded, not excessively worn, but had noticeable wear which was not there before the K&N. At that time I trashed the K&N and went back to using the stock air filters. I guess if you just use your vehicle to drive to the mall, the K&N should be ok. If you use your vehicle off road or dusty areas, I recommend not to use them, based on my own personal experience. Clueless Troll – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> And you base your info on what, Einstein? > I’ve had 5 different vehicles with K&N filters in them all their lives, > and on the 2 I tore down for other problems (I caused), there was NO > wear in the cylinders… no ridge etc.  Dust coming in the intake would > wear the heck out of the rings.  Both had over 100K when I tore into > them. > Get a clue, Troll!

Response:

Had you read the instructions, Asshole, you would have found that K&N recomends you check and re-oil FREQUENTLY in off-road/dusty situations. As you accumulate dust, you wick oil away from the filtration media. You need to replace the oil to continue to get proper filtration. Sounds like your problem was caused by being a moron… Obviously because you owned a "powerjoke" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My info. is based on the 7.3 diesel pickup I had. At 50,000 miles of off > road driving with the stock air filter, it would plug up on regular > intervals causing the air restriction gauge to read 100% restriction. > I then opted for a washable, reusable K&N to save money on air filter > replacements. After another 10,000 miles with the K&N, the air filter > restriction gauge read 25% restriction. I checked the filter anyway. I found > a load of dust inside the intake tube all the way to the turbo. The edges of > the turbo blades were rounded, not excessively worn, but had noticeable wear > which was not there before the K&N. At that time I trashed the K&N and went > back to using the stock air filters. > I guess if you just use your vehicle to drive to the mall, the K&N should be > ok. If you use your vehicle off road or dusty areas, I recommend not to use > them, based on my own personal experience. > Clueless Troll

Response:

I have and it worked fine cant tell any performance changes though. > Hello PPls! >        Have any of you installed a K&n on a 1997 explorer > V6 SOHC before??? I need to know whether they work or > not… or have any of you experience any problems with it?? > Should i go for it?? thanks !!! > * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find

related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

> I’ve had a K&N on for about 30,000. No problems w/MAF. I am concerned > about the filter Oil when/if I service it. I may not service it, I may just toss > it > and buy another. The dollar comparison isn’t that far apart for 1 paper > filter every 10-12,000 and one K&N every 50,000. I drive unpaved > roads so the K & N makes sense. > I was more concerned about indications that dust was getting past the > filter when ham fisted quick lube shop personnel replaced the filter cover > incorrectly. After looking at the filter housing a bit, it appears to me to be > a questionable design. Anyway, my solution, for now, is to use a filter with > a long change interval. Get the filter housing put together right and don’t mess

If your concern is ham fisted quick lube employees not putting the cover back on right, why trust them with the oil change as well?  Simple maintenance you can do for 1/3 the price they charge and you know it’s done right.

Response:

‘98 Sport SOHC… I tried the K&N filter that replaces the stock filter. (no modifications to the stock air box) I found NO improvement in performance or fuel economy. I have taken it out due to concerns about the ‘OILED" filters getting the mass air flow sensors dirty. Mike

> Hello PPls! >        Have any of you installed a K&n on a 1997 explorer > V6 SOHC before??? I need to know whether they work or > not… or have any of you experience any problems with it?? > Should i go for it?? thanks !!! > * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find

related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

I’ve had a K&N on for about 30,000. No problems w/MAF. I am concerned about the filter Oil when/if I service it. I may not service it, I may just toss it and buy another. The dollar comparison isn’t that far apart for 1 paper filter every 10-12,000 and one K&N every 50,000. I drive unpaved roads so the K & N makes sense. I was more concerned about indications that dust was getting past the filter when ham fisted quick lube shop personnel replaced the filter cover incorrectly. After looking at the filter housing a bit, it appears to me to be a questionable design. Anyway, my solution, for now, is to use a filter with a long change interval. Get the filter housing put together right and don’t mess with it. I haven’t seen any complaints here about the filter housing so maybe I’m just being overly critical. But, when I checked the filter at about 6,000 miles, it had dust on the intake side. Clark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > ‘98 Sport SOHC… I tried the K&N filter that replaces the stock filter. (no > modifications to the stock air box) I found NO improvement in performance or > fuel economy. I have taken it out due to concerns about the ‘OILED" filters > getting the mass air flow sensors dirty. Mike > Hello PPls! >        Have any of you installed a K&n on a 1997 explorer > V6 SOHC before??? I need to know whether they work or > not… or have any of you experience any problems with it?? > Should i go for it?? thanks !!! > * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find > related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is > Beautiful

Response:

Hello PPls!        Have any of you installed a K&n on a 1997 explorer V6 SOHC before??? I need to know whether they work or not… or have any of you experience any problems with it?? Should i go for it?? thanks !!! * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

Help needed about a transmission hose

Question:

I’ve got a 1997 Explorer V6 SOHC 4×4 with 42k miles. When I replaced the fuel filter today I noticed a loose black rubber hose on the transfer case.  The hose is on the drivers side of the transfer case about midway up from the bottom. A tube sticks out of the transfer case and the hose was very loosely slipped over it.  There was a drop or two of what looked like of transmission fluid around the tube.  I think this is only a vent hose.  I pushed the hose over the tube and it felt like it grabbed.  There was no clamp. Is this how it is supposed to be?  It just slides on to the tube?  Could I have been loosing fluid through this hose if it was not securely fitted on to the tube? Do the transfer case and transmission share fluid?  How do you check the fluid level in the transfer case if they are different? Thanks for your help. -Mark M.

Response:

Hi Mark, That is the vent line… To check the transfer case fluid, there are 2 plugs on the rear side… the top plug is the fill plug.  Fluid should be at the bottom of it’s threads. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve got a 1997 Explorer V6 SOHC 4×4 with 42k miles. > When I replaced the fuel filter today I noticed a loose black rubber hose on > the transfer case.  The hose is on the drivers side of the transfer case > about midway up from the bottom. > A tube sticks out of the transfer case and the hose was very loosely slipped > over it.  There was a drop or two of what looked like of transmission fluid > around the tube.  I think this is only a vent hose.  I pushed the hose over > the tube and it felt like it grabbed.  There was no clamp. Is this how it is > supposed to be?  It just slides on to the tube?  Could I have been loosing > fluid through this hose if it was not securely fitted on to the tube? > Do the transfer case and transmission share fluid?  How do you check the > fluid level in the transfer case if they are different?

Response:

Clicking noise during idle – What is it?

Question:

Hi,      My 1997 Explorer makes a clicking noise when I’m idle that doesn’t sound right to me.    It sounds like it comes from under the car rather than the engine, and it causes the engine to rev up a little bit, till it comes back down to a certain level and clicks again.      I’m new to this group and appreciate any info. Greg

Response:

Sounds like the a/c compressor cycling on/off… Dan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, >      My 1997 Explorer makes a clicking noise when I’m idle that doesn’t > sound right to me.    It sounds like it comes from under the car rather than > the engine, and it causes the engine to rev up a little bit, till it comes > back down to a certain level and clicks again. >      I’m new to this group and appreciate any info. > Greg

Response:

This sounds like an A/C compressor cycling on and off. If you have the defroster on, it will do this….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->      My 1997 Explorer makes a clicking noise when I’m idle that doesn’t > sound right to me.    It sounds like it comes from under the car rather than > the engine, and it causes the engine to rev up a little bit, till it comes > back down to a certain level and clicks again.

Response:

I know exactly what you’re talking about.  My ‘97 Sport SOHC V6 and my ‘99 XLT SOHC V6 both did the same thing.  The air conditioning is not running.  I don’t know what is causing it. Erik ‘99 XLT SOHC V6

Response:

I have a 1998 XLT and it does the same thing.  My friend 1999 Ranger does it too.  I brought it into the shop and they said it was normal. It’s the compressor cycling.  I asked them if they can do something to make it a bit less noisey.  They said "nope". I brought the car to 2 dealers. Turn the radio up a notch.  :-) > Hi, >      My 1997 Explorer makes a clicking noise when I’m idle that doesn’t > sound right to me.    It sounds like it comes from under the car rather than > the engine, and it causes the engine to rev up a little bit, till it comes > back down to a certain level and clicks again. >      I’m new to this group and appreciate any info. > Greg

Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

> Hi, >      My 1997 Explorer makes a clicking noise when I’m idle that doesn’t > sound right to me.    It sounds like it comes from under the car rather than > the engine, and it causes the engine to rev up a little bit, till it comes > back down to a certain level and clicks again. >      I’m new to this group and appreciate any info. > Greg

  My 97 Explorer does it while the AC is running.  There will be a click followed by a short drop in rpm and back up to normal.  It is very normal regardless what the dealer shop says.

Response:

>   My 97 Explorer does it while the AC is running.  There will be a click > followed by a short drop in rpm and back up to normal.  It is very not > normal regardless what the dealer shop says.

It is normal.  You compressor cycles on and off constantly when the AC is in use – it’s more noticeable at idle though.

Response:

The clicking noise is the air conditioning compressor clutch engaging and disengaging the compressor.  The RPM’s drop due to the increase in load on the engine.  My /94 XL does it too.  Although you may not have the AC on when this occurs, a pressure switch is "telling" the compressor to run to maintain the pressures in the system.  This may be annoying, however it beats the alternative which is getting a refrigerant recharge every summer. You see, a packing seal on the compressor shaft is pretty much all that’s keeping the refrigerant in your system and it requires refrigerant oil to keep it pliable.  With the compressor cycling now and again, you won’t have to worry much about losing any refrigerant.  Remember people having to take their vehicles to the shop because the air conditioning wasn’t working? Most times they had to get the system recharged as the packing seal had dried out and leaked.  Also, if you listen to other vehicles closely, you can here the ac compressors cycling on and off as well. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->  My 97 Explorer does it while the AC is running.  There will be a click >followed by a short drop in rpm and back up to normal.  It is very not >normal regardless what the dealer shop says.

Response:

WANTED Rear Subwoofer Speaker

Question:

Thanks for the advice.

Response:

I had the same problem with my JBL sub in my 96. I pulled the subwoofer and checked the soldering. It didn’t look like anything was wrong, but I could turn the stereo on and jiggle the wires and it would cut in and out. I decided to break out the soldering gun and resolder it. It worked for about a day. I pulled it again, put more solder on and moved the wire back a little more out of the hole. This time I haven’t had any problems with it and I’m going on 3 months. I use the heck out of the sub, I really love the bass, so I know that I overwork my sub more than most Explorer owners. Unless you just have the money or want to upgrade to a different speaker, I’d suggest simply resoldering the connection. YOu can do it yourself with a soldering gun. If you don’t feel comfortable doing that, any stereo shop in your area could probably do it for $15 or so. Just depends if they’re trying to take your money or not. Trust me, it’s a 5 minute job to solder the connection. Jason – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I need a rear subwoofer speaker for my 1997 Explorer.  I have the JBL > system.  The rear speaker sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t.  When > it does work, it sounds as if it is blown.  Thanks

Response:

I need a rear subwoofer speaker for my 1997 Explorer.  I have the JBL system.  Thanks

Response:

What size is in a ‘97? What your problem is that the wires connecting the speaker are loose. More specifically the sodering is coming off due to the vibrations of the speaker. If it’s a 6.5" then look at Radio Shack, they are the only ones in my area that carry that size speaker. I had three of those speakers but finally switched to an 8 inch Pioneer subwoofer and put it in a box in the back. Go ahead and spend a little bit of money b/c in the long run if you spend it now, you’ll save. The Pioneer I bought has foam in the areas that came loose on my other speakers. I hope i helped a little and didn’t confuse you any. Just ask me some more specific questions if I did confuse you. Mark

Response:

I need a rear subwoofer speaker for my 1997 Explorer.  I have the JBL system.  The rear speaker sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t.  When it does work, it sounds as if it is blown.  Thanks

Response:

Bridgestone Dueler A/T?

Question:

Yes ,my farther in-law currently is running a set  on his 1997 explorer and he loves them ,good wet weather traction and smooth quiet ride and good lookin tire also . He is very happy with his so far…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I know the net consensus is that the Michelin LTX AT >is the best tire for the Exlorer.  But has anyone tried the >Bridgestone Dueler?  I am considering putting them on >a 97 4×4 Sport with 255/70R/16 tires. >Thanks >Darrel

Response:

And they last alot longer than the michelins! 50k and counting…. Sean rec.bicycles.marketplace

Response:

i put a set on my ‘92 chasing the elusive 70mph vibration. didn’t do anything for the vibration, but they’re not noisy. originally felt a little harsh but had 35lbs of air. i guess they’re ok. took very little weight, something i always expected only with michelins. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I know the net consensus is that the Michelin LTX AT > is the best tire for the Exlorer.  But has anyone tried the > Bridgestone Dueler?  I am considering putting them on > a 97 4×4 Sport with 255/70R/16 tires. > Thanks > Darrel

Response:

I know the net consensus is that the Michelin LTX AT is the best tire for the Exlorer.  But has anyone tried the Bridgestone Dueler?  I am considering putting them on a 97 4×4 Sport with 255/70R/16 tires. Thanks Darrel

Response:

I have the Bridgestone Duelers on my 91.  Great tires.  I can’t vouch against the Michelins as I’ve never tried them, but the Bridgestones perform great and (in my opinion) look great. chris 91 EB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know the net consensus is that the Michelin LTX AT > is the best tire for the Exlorer.  But has anyone tried the > Bridgestone Dueler?  I am considering putting them on > a 97 4×4 Sport with 255/70R/16 tires. > Thanks > Darrel

Response:

rear radio controls

Question:

My 97 explorer XLT has the rear radio controls, and always displays a headset icon on the radio display.  Is there any way to disable these controls, without cutting wires?  The manual doesn’t say anything about disabling the rear controls, just how to use them… chs "I’ve Got the Patience… of a Chopping Block…"

Response:

> My 97 explorer XLT has the rear radio controls, and always displays a > headset icon on the radio display.  Is there any way to disable these > controls, without cutting wires?  The manual doesn’t say anything about > disabling the rear controls, just how to use them… > chs > "I’ve Got the Patience… of a Chopping Block…"

Press and hold number 3 and 5 preset buttons simultaneously when the radio is on.  The headphone icon on the display should disappear.  Press them again to re-activate the rear controls. Since the default is for the rear controls to be operational, you will have to do this each time you start the car.   Sorry I don’t know of a permanent ‘disable switch’. Danny B. -= Friends, don’t let friends drive without the Internet =-

Response:

HI, My 1998 XLT has the same. Press stations buttons 3 & 5 to disable the rear controls temporarily. Hope this helps. Mark > My 97 explorer XLT has the rear radio controls, and always displays a > headset icon on the radio display.  Is there any way to disable these > controls, without cutting wires?  The manual doesn’t say anything about > disabling the rear controls, just how to use them… > chs

— – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "I’ve Got the Patience… of a Chopping Block…"

Response:

>Press and hold number 3 and 5 preset buttons simultaneously when the >radio is on.  The headphone icon on the display should disappear.  Press >them again to re-activate the rear controls. Since the default is for >the rear controls to be operational, you will have to do this each time >you start the car. >Sorry I don’t know of a permanent ‘disable switch’. >Danny B. >-= Friends, don’t let friends drive without the Internet =-

On my ‘97 the rear controls remain de-activated until I turn the stereo off with the on/off knob. They stay de-activated even after turning off my Explorer from day to day. Robert —

Response:

Actually, the rear controls only reset if the radio itself is turned off.  If the radio is left on when the ignition is turned off, the setting will be retained when the ignition is turned on again.  This was somehow left out of the 97 owner’s manual. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 97 explorer XLT has the rear radio controls, and always displays a > headset icon on the radio display.  Is there any way to disable these > controls, without cutting wires?  The manual doesn’t say anything about > disabling the rear controls, just how to use them… > chs > "I’ve Got the Patience… of a Chopping Block…" > Press and hold number 3 and 5 preset buttons simultaneously when the > radio is on.  The headphone icon on the display should disappear.  Press > them again to re-activate the rear controls. Since the default is for > the rear controls to be operational, you will have to do this each time > you start the car. > Sorry I don’t know of a permanent ‘disable switch’. > Danny B. > -= Friends, don’t let friends drive without the Internet =-

– Allen Kirby AT&T Information Technology Services Alpharetta, GA. The views expressed here are mine, not my employers.

Response:

Can someone tell me how to disable the controls in the rear for the sound system in a 1997 explorer?

Response:

not sure if the 97 is the same as my 98 but if you hold down the # 2 and 5 presets for afew seconds it turns off the rear controls

Response:

>Can someone tell me how to disable the controls in the rear for the sound >system in a 1997 explorer?

If should be either 2&5 or 3&5.  It’s in the owner’s manual though. Jeffrey L. Jue http://www2.msstate.edu/~lj4

Response:

Was that a fun prank. I friend of mine bought a 95 and brought it over to show it off. After a few mintues of driving around, I proceeded to mess with the controls while he swore and ranted about the stereo being messed up.. heh.. I let him go on for about 15 mintues before I could not hold in my laughter any longer.. I haven’t seen that guy for a while… Bob http://www.2simple.com/oddbob/ http://www.2simple.com/oddbob/images/explorer.jpg – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Can someone tell me how to disable the controls in the rear for the sound > system in a 1997 explorer?

Response:

1997 Explorer Stereo

Question:

Can someone tell me how the stereo is wired in my 1997 EB.  I have the CD changer and the JBL stereo w/sub.   I’d like to make a few changes, but really don’t want to have to dig all over the place trying to figure out what is where.

Response:

What do you want to know about it?  Speakers, power??  and what do you plan to do to it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Can someone tell me how the stereo is wired in my 1997 EB.  I have the CD > changer and the JBL stereo w/sub.   I’d like to make a few changes, but > really don’t want to have to dig all over the place trying to figure out > what is where.

Response:

Body Roll on a 97 Exp. Sport

Question:

Really funny you should say that. I just cam from the gas station, where I pumped up the pressure to 35PSI all around. I immediately noticed a difference. I think I like the way she handles with more tire pressure than others would normally recommend. The sidewall of the tire says "max pressure 40psi", and the sticker on the door says "30psi cold", so I thought I would compromise. I got an alignment/rotate/balance job last week, and they set my pressure at 30psi all around. I can’t believe what a difference 5 psi makes. Thanks! Scott 97 Exp. Sport 4.0 SOHC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Being relatively new to the Explorer world, I have a question regarding > suspension setup/body roll on a 1997 Explorer Sport. The overall reaction to > bumps and "stuff" when hit straight on seems to be pretty good, however I am > concerned about the large amount of body roll during slow turning into a > driveway, or over rough terrain. It feels as if the truck is "rocking" from > side to side. I can get out and "shake" the truck up and down from side to > side pretty easily. How are the stock sway bars on these things? Short of > buying aftermarket ones, is there anything I can do to "stiffen" them up a > bit? >Check your tire pressure – makes a 8big* difference. The stock pressure >is a little low IMHO.I usually run about 33PSI all around. No abnormal >tire wear detected yet…

Response:

> Being relatively new to the Explorer world, I have a question regarding > suspension setup/body roll on a 1997 Explorer Sport. The overall reaction to > bumps and "stuff" when hit straight on seems to be pretty good, however I am > concerned about the large amount of body roll during slow turning into a > driveway, or over rough terrain. It feels as if the truck is "rocking" from > side to side. I can get out and "shake" the truck up and down from side to > side pretty easily. How are the stock sway bars on these things? Short of > buying aftermarket ones, is there anything I can do to "stiffen" them up a > bit?

Check your tire pressure – makes a 8big* difference. The stock pressure is a little low IMHO.I usually run about 33PSI all around. No abnormal tire wear detected yet…

Response:

Being relatively new to the Explorer world, I have a question regarding suspension setup/body roll on a 1997 Explorer Sport. The overall reaction to bumps and "stuff" when hit straight on seems to be pretty good, however I am concerned about the large amount of body roll during slow turning into a driveway, or over rough terrain. It feels as if the truck is "rocking" from side to side. I can get out and "shake" the truck up and down from side to side pretty easily. How are the stock sway bars on these things? Short of buying aftermarket ones, is there anything I can do to "stiffen" them up a bit? Pardon my ignorance. I did have an older Chevy Blazer a few years ago, and it seems to be much more solid than the Explorer. Any input from fellow groupies is appreciated. Scott 97 Exp. Sport 4.0 SOHC

Response: