I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with 120K miles, and the front wheel bearings seem to be a recurring problem.  Is this normal? … for an Explorer?? Whenever the dealer gets the vehicle, either the bearings need to be repacked or replaced.  At 100K miles, the front bearings were replaced, and now the vehicle is really noisy when over 40 mph… I do mostly highway driving and its gets annoying.  I suspected worn tires, but the passenger feels that the noise is only on the driver side.  Any comment?  All suggestions sincerely appreciated.

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Have you checked your front gearbox fluid level or the Transmission level.  I had a whine from my transmission when the fluid was low for some unknown problem – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with 120K miles, and the front wheel bearings >seem to be a recurring problem.  Is this normal? … for an Explorer?? >Whenever the dealer gets the vehicle, either the bearings need to be >repacked or replaced.  At 100K miles, the front bearings were replaced, and >now the vehicle is really noisy when over 40 mph… I do mostly highway >driving and its gets annoying.  I suspected worn tires, but the passenger >feels that the noise is only on the driver side.  Any comment?  All >suggestions sincerely appreciated.

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I removed my factory amp connected metra harness to route speaker wire to aftermarket radio ran wires from rear amp location to under rear seat….now where is best route to radio? through   floor along door?  

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It would sure help to know the year – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I removed my factory amp connected metra harness to route speaker wire to >aftermarket radio ran wires from rear amp location to under rear >seat….now where is best route to radio? through   floor along door?  

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1998 explorer xlt I removed my factory amp connected metra harness to route speaker wire to – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->aftermarket radio ran wires from rear amp location to under rear >seat….now where is best route to radio? through   floor along door?  

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>Glad you got the info.  I was about to TYPE the section.  What did we ever >do before pdf’s? >Dave

I’m still trying to figure out how civilization survived for over 5,000 years without plastic garbage bags. 8^)

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Glad you got the info.  I was about to TYPE the section.  What did we ever do before pdf’s? Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks Krusty.  I also took Art’s advice and registered at > www.Ford.com so I have access to the manual in .PDF format. > I appreciate the help! > Glenn

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You can register your car on the Ford Website (Owner connection) and then you can download a manual in PDF format. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Yeah – it is in the owner’s manual.  Do you have one? >Dave > Unfortunately, no.  I have purchased one on eBay and am awaiting its > arrival. > Glenn

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Thanks Krusty.  I also took Art’s advice and registered at www.Ford.com so I have access to the manual in .PDF format. I appreciate the help! Glenn

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Try this.  I have the whole manual in digital format (PDF) but it is to big to send here.  If you want get me a good email and I can email it to you its about 4 meg or so in size.  Hope this helped.   Using the Keyless Entry System (If equipped) If your vehicle has the keyless entry system, you can lock or unlock the vehicle doors without using a key. The buttons for the system are near the outside door handle on the driver’s side. See also Remote Entry System which follows this description. Keyless entry buttons When you bought your vehicle, you were given a computer code that operates the system for your vehicle. For your convenience, we have duplicated this code in two places. The code is: on your owner’s wallet card found in the glove compartment and taped to the computer module (This is located in the rear compartment area where your rear window washer tank is located.  you will have to look way inside usually a 5 digit code in on the module) When you use this entry system, the illuminated entry system turns on the interior lights for 25 seconds and the buttons on the keypad light up for 5 seconds. Do not push the buttons with a key, ballpoint pen, pencil or any other hard object. These objects could damage the buttons. Programming your own entry code You can program a personal code to unlock your vehicle with the keypad. This code does not replace the permanent code that the dealership gave you. Use your personal code in the same manner as you would your original code. To program your own code: 1. Select five digits for your personal code. 2. Enter the permanent code that the dealership gave you. 3. Within five seconds, press 1/2. 4. Within five seconds of pressing 1/2, enter your personal code, pressing each digit within five seconds of the previous digit. The keyless entry system registers this second code. To open your vehicle, you can now use either code. The module remembers only one personal code at a time. Entering a second personal code will erase the first, replacing it with the new second one. To erase your personal code: 1. Enter the original permanent code. 2. Press 1/2 within five seconds of Step 1. 3. Wait six seconds. The keyless entry system automatically erases your personal code. The system will now only respond to the permanent code. Do not set a code that presents the numbers in sequential order, such as 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/0. Studies show that people who idly press the buttons usually press a sequential pattern. Also, do not select a code that uses the same button five times. Thieves can easily figure out these types of codes. 158 Unlocking  the doors with the keyless entry system You must unlock the driver’s door before you unlock any of the other doors. If you let more than five seconds pass between pressing numbers, the system shuts down, and you have to enter the code again. The system has shut down if the keypad light is out. If the keyless entry system does not work properly, use the key or transmitter(s) to lock and unlock the doors. 1. To unlock the driver’s door, enter the factory code or your personal code. All codes have five numbers. After you press the fifth number, the driver’s door unlocks. 2. To unlock the passenger’s door(s), press the 3/4 button within five seconds of unlocking the driver’s door or re-enter the code to open the driver’s door, then press 3/4. Locking the doors with the keyless entry system Along with unlocking your doors, you can use the keyless entry system to lock the doors. You can also use the Autolock feature to automatically lock the doors after you get in the vehicle. To lock all of the doors, press 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time. It is not necessary to first enter the keypad code. This will arm your factory installed anti-theft system, if so equipped. Arming,  disarming and resetting your anti-theft system (If equipped) from the keyless entry pad If your vehicle is equipped with the optional factory installed anti-theft system, the keyless entry system will arm it when you use the 7/8 and 9/0 keys to lock the doors, and will disarm or reset a triggered anti-theft alarm when you enter in the five digit code to unlock the driver’s door. NOTE: Doors and the liftgate must be fully closed for the anti-theft system to arm. Refer to the Anti-Theft System section in this chapter for more details. — JAMES AGUILAR >Yeah – it is in the owner’s manual.  Do you have one? >Dave

Unfortunately, no.  I have purchased one on eBay and am awaiting its arrival. Glenn

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Yeah – it is in the owner’s manual.  Do you have one? Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->You can change the code  to a number of your choosing once you find the >factory code. > I’d like to change the code to a personal number, and I assume there > are additional codes that operate different functions.  Does anyone > have a source for these codes? > I learned by accident that pressing the last two numbers on the pad at > the same time will lock the vehicle.  Fortunately I had the windows > down. > Glenn

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>Yeah – it is in the owner’s manual.  Do you have one? >Dave

Unfortunately, no.  I have purchased one on eBay and am awaiting its arrival. Glenn

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>You can change the code  to a number of your choosing once you find the >factory code.

I’d like to change the code to a personal number, and I assume there are additional codes that operate different functions.  Does anyone have a source for these codes? I learned by accident that pressing the last two numbers on the pad at the same time will lock the vehicle.  Fortunately I had the windows down. Glenn

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You can change the code  to a number of your choosing once you find the factory code.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1998 explorer I bought used. The manual says the number sequence to > the keypad is on the computer…now if I knew where the computer was. Any > ideas?

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I have a 1998 explorer I bought used. The manual says the number sequence to the keypad is on the computer…now if I knew where the computer was. Any ideas?

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The control for the remote locks is located on the driver’s side, over the rear wheel well and can be see from the access panel for the jack. At least on my ‘97…… Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1998 explorer I bought used. The manual says the number sequence to > the keypad is on the computer…now if I knew where the computer was. Any > ideas?

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Open the panel in the back where the jack is housed.  Right up on top of the wheel well you’ll see a box with a sticker on it.  You may have to use a flashlight and pull the panel away from the box to see it (at least I did on mine). The 5 digit number printed on that sticker is your door lock code. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 1998 explorer I bought used. The manual says the number sequence to > the keypad is on the computer…now if I knew where the computer was. Any > ideas?

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> I jsut purchased a 1998 Explorer. My neighbor also has a 1998 Explorer. It > seems that his key fob also activates and deactivates my vehicle. Is there > any way to reprogram my vehicles settings so they don’t match his?

Hi, the following information is quoted from an earlier post by Billy, BChung4457.  We  both have 1997 Explorers, but to my knowledge 1998 is no different. Good luck, Joe "1.  Gather all your remotes because the RKE unit will assign a brand new code to all the remotes.   2.  Be sure all the doors and liftgate/glass are closed. 3.  Insert your key in the ignition and turn the key from "Off" to "On" position 5 times ending at the "On" position without starting the engine. 4.  Once you’ve done there, the door locks should lock then unlock as a confirmation telling you that you’re in the programming mode. 5.  Click any button on the remote.  Once you’ve done that, the door locks will lock then unlock telling you that the remote has been programed 6.  If you have more remotes repeat step 5.  You can program up to 4 remotes. 7.  Turn off the ignition and try the remotes out."

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I jsut purchased a 1998 Explorer. My neighbor also has a 1998 Explorer. It seems that his key fob also activates and deactivates my vehicle. Is there any way to reprogram my vehicles settings so they don’t match his?

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        I’m thinking of getting a low mileage (39k) 1998 Explorer, 2-door with the 160 hp V6. Browsing the web, I’m seeing lots of issues with the control arms, transmissions, and 4-wheel drive, but the internet tends to attract grouses rather than praise. Are these really common issues, and should the 98-99 cars be avoided?         Emanuel — 1983 Porsche 911 1983 Porsche 944

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I’ve had my 98 Sport for 3 years now. I bought it with 64k miles and now it’s got 104k. I’ve never had any problems with it. It’s been a great vehicle. I have the 4.0 V6 DOHC motor. I think it’s rated at around 200HP. (??) Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >    I’m thinking of getting a low mileage (39k) 1998 Explorer, 2-door > with the 160 hp V6. Browsing the web, I’m seeing lots of issues with > the control arms, transmissions, and 4-wheel drive, but the internet > tends to attract grouses rather than praise. Are these really common > issues, and should the 98-99 cars be avoided? >    Emanuel

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I have 99 with the 160hp V6 DOHC engine.  The SOHC has the ~200hp.  Mine has 68k miles; aside from new brakes ($600) because I waited too long, it’s been good.  The engine could use a few hp though.  Not much punch. TL

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve had my 98 Sport for 3 years now. I bought it with 64k miles and now > it’s got 104k. I’ve never had any problems with it. It’s been a great > vehicle. I have the 4.0 V6 DOHC motor. I think it’s rated at around > 200HP. (??) > Tom > I’m thinking of getting a low mileage (39k) 1998 Explorer, 2-door > with the 160 hp V6. Browsing the web, I’m seeing lots of issues with > the control arms, transmissions, and 4-wheel drive, but the internet > tends to attract grouses rather than praise. Are these really common > issues, and should the 98-99 cars be avoided? > Emanuel

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My 1998 V8 developed a tap at 75k. Valve tap or lifter problem – I’m not sure. Is this a common or known issue with the 1998 V8? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thx. Len

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Is it constant (heard all the time) or does it come and go? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My 1998 V8 developed a tap at 75k. Valve tap or lifter problem – I’m >not sure. Is this a common or known issue with the 1998 V8? Any >assistance is greatly appreciated. >Thx. >Len

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Fred, It happens all the time. When I race the engine it gets faster. Len O.

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Hey Gang, I have a 1998 Explorer Ltd with the strangest problem The headlights just failed to come on one day. I turned my headlights on as usual from the dash and no lights yes – the light blubs are ok – only 2 months old as I just replaced them in April the parking lights do come on though I tired putting the high beam lights on – pushing the switch forward – also got nothing I tried pulling the switch (the turn signal bar on the steering column) backward, and I got the high beam lights to work… though I had to hold this in position to see where I was driving… I also tried switching the automatic light senser switch on the mirror, again only got the parking lights. Any help would be a definite bonus! Thanks Scott.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey Gang, >I have a 1998 Explorer Ltd with the strangest problem >The headlights just failed to come on one day. >I turned my headlights on as usual from the dash and no lights >yes – the light blubs are ok – only 2 months old as I just replaced them in >April >the parking lights do come on though >I tired putting the high beam lights on – pushing the switch forward – also >got nothing >I tried pulling the switch (the turn signal bar on the steering column) >backward, and I got the high beam lights to work… though I had to hold >this in position to see where I was driving… >I also tried switching the automatic light senser switch on the mirror, >again only got the parking lights. >Any help would be a definite bonus! >Thanks Scott.

It might be your lamp out module located at the trip computer.  If I remember correctly, ‘98 is the last year where the computer checks for burnt out bulbs. I hope this helps.   Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer

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I know this sounds obvious, but you didn’t mention it… Low beam fuse?  I realize that the highs turned on when you pulled the lever back,  but did not when you pushed it forward to normal operating position.  I believe that when you push it forward, low beams have to be on in order for highs to work (same reason they turn off when you flip the headlight switch off, yet highs still work if you pull back on the lever…seperate circuit) I hope my wording made sense…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey Gang, > I have a 1998 Explorer Ltd with the strangest problem > The headlights just failed to come on one day. > I turned my headlights on as usual from the dash and no lights > yes – the light blubs are ok – only 2 months old as I just replaced them in > April > the parking lights do come on though > I tired putting the high beam lights on – pushing the switch forward – also > got nothing > I tried pulling the switch (the turn signal bar on the steering column) > backward, and I got the high beam lights to work… though I had to hold > this in position to see where I was driving… > I also tried switching the automatic light senser switch on the mirror, > again only got the parking lights. > Any help would be a definite bonus! > Thanks Scott.

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My 1998 Explorer has the electric power control on the side of the seat at the bottom, and many times when I’m fastening my seatbelt, the belt presses the power button and my seat starts going up/down, forward/backward.  At first I didn’t know what was happening…I thought I was on one of those electric pony rides at the amusement park, but then realized it was my seat belt.  Anyone else have this happen?

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No, but the first time I ever pressed the "memory" button on the door panel, I thought I was sitting in a trash compactor as it ran the seat all the way forward.  I couldn’t move! That was just plain scary. Don

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 1998 Explorer has the electric power control on the side of the seat at > the bottom, and many times when I’m fastening my seatbelt, the belt presses > the power button and my seat starts going up/down, forward/backward.  At > first I didn’t know what was happening…I thought I was on one of those > electric pony rides at the amusement park, but then realized it was my seat > belt.  Anyone else have this happen?

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I’ve had that happen a couple of times.  Of course, I’ve had more chances…92 with 144k  … original owner Charlie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 1998 Explorer has the electric power control on the side of the seat at > the bottom, and many times when I’m fastening my seatbelt, the belt presses > the power button and my seat starts going up/down, forward/backward.  At > first I didn’t know what was happening…I thought I was on one of those > electric pony rides at the amusement park, but then realized it was my seat > belt.  Anyone else have this happen?

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Hi, I have a 1998 Explorer (UK Spec) and the heater fan now only works on the maximum setting (at max speed). Settings 1,2 & 3 do nothing. Any ideas what to check before I pull the dash apart? Cheers Chris

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> Hi, > I have a 1998 Explorer (UK Spec) and the heater fan now only works on the > maximum setting (at max speed). Settings 1,2 & 3 do nothing. > Any ideas what to check before I pull the dash apart? > Cheers > Chris

Replace the resistor pack.  On our Altima (yeah, I know oranges and apples), it was located inside the heater core and cost about $35 for the part.   Zam

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It is most likely the resistor network that controls the fan speeds. Regards, Ed White – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > I have a 1998 Explorer (UK Spec) and the heater fan now only works on the > maximum setting (at max speed). Settings 1,2 & 3 do nothing. > Any ideas what to check before I pull the dash apart? > Cheers > Chris

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On the explorer the resistor pack is under the bonnet next to the fan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I have a 1998 Explorer (UK Spec) and the heater fan now only works on > the > maximum setting (at max speed). Settings 1,2 & 3 do nothing. > Any ideas what to check before I pull the dash apart? > Cheers > Chris > Replace the resistor pack.  On our Altima (yeah, I know oranges and > apples), it was located inside the heater core and cost about $35 for the > part. > Zam

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See smoke form dashboard post abit – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi, >I have a 1998 Explorer (UK Spec) and the heater fan now only works on the >maximum setting (at max speed). Settings 1,2 & 3 do nothing. >Any ideas what to check before I pull the dash apart? >Cheers >Chris

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 1998 Explorer. About 6 months ago I started feeling a bump > from the floor under my left foot while turning the steering wheel in > either direction. There is no other sound or squeal that the steering > makes. The bump is through the full range of the steering (not just > when the wheel locks). While driving there is no sounds or steering > wobble. > I took it to the mechanic who could find nothing wrong. Has anyone had > this happen? > Steve

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It can be easy to miss bad inner control arm bushings…. DAMHIKT. Get your mechanic to recheck this and, more importantly, have him road test the vehicle – with you along if possible. Whether you drive or the tech drives seems to vary with the problem…. I have no hard rule about this. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1998 Explorer. About 6 months ago I started feeling a bump > from the floor under my left foot while turning the steering wheel in > either direction. There is no other sound or squeal that the steering > makes. The bump is through the full range of the steering (not just > when the wheel locks). While driving there is no sounds or steering > wobble. > I took it to the mechanic who could find nothing wrong. Has anyone had > this happen? > Steve

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> I have a 1998 Explorer. About 6 months ago I started feeling a bump > from the floor under my left foot while turning the steering wheel in > either direction. There is no other sound or squeal that the steering > makes. The bump is through the full range of the steering (not just > when the wheel locks). While driving there is no sounds or steering > wobble. > I took it to the mechanic who could find nothing wrong. Has anyone had > this happen? > Steve

I had the same problem with my 98, it turned out the floor mat was touching the steering column and would get bumped while I was turning. Let me know if that is the fix for yours. Woody

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I have a 1998 Explorer. About 6 months ago I started feeling a bump from the floor under my left foot while turning the steering wheel in either direction. There is no other sound or squeal that the steering makes. The bump is through the full range of the steering (not just when the wheel locks). While driving there is no sounds or steering wobble. I took it to the mechanic who could find nothing wrong. Has anyone had this happen? Steve

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