Question:

Would you expand on that a bit?  Why do you think this is the problem? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Try replacing the fuel pump relay.

Response:

My ‘96 would do this also, I had to drive with two feet at stop lights to keep it from stalling.  I changed my Idle Air Control Valve and that solved my problem.  You could try cleaning the valve before replacing.  It is the silver can with a two wire connector located on the throttle body.

Response:

Try replacing the fuel pump relay. Sean

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It looks like there was alot of conversation on this topic on this > group a couple of years ago but I have been unable to find whether a > solution was found…My problem is that after driving for awhile and > warming the engine up and stopping for 10 to 15 minutes at a store, > when I restart the engine and put it into Drive, the engine will > stall. It doesn’t happen everytime but it seems like it has some > relationship to warm days (above 80 degrees). Once the engine gets > going and I am able to accelerate for more than 5 seconds, it runs > fine with no hesitation. The problem is that it has stalled a number > of times after pulling into or crossing traffic. Any suggestions > appreciated.

Response:

It looks like there was alot of conversation on this topic on this group a couple of years ago but I have been unable to find whether a solution was found…My problem is that after driving for awhile and warming the engine up and stopping for 10 to 15 minutes at a store, when I restart the engine and put it into Drive, the engine will stall. It doesn’t happen everytime but it seems like it has some relationship to warm days (above 80 degrees). Once the engine gets going and I am able to accelerate for more than 5 seconds, it runs fine with no hesitation. The problem is that it has stalled a number of times after pulling into or crossing traffic. Any suggestions appreciated.

Response:

Question:

Anyone know where I may obtain a 1998 Explorer Factory Brouchure ?? Any help appreciated !! Thanks, -ERIC

Response:

Keep trying on eBay.  I purchased one for a Cougar a few years ago.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone know where I may obtain a 1998 Explorer Factory Brouchure ?? > Any help appreciated !! > Thanks, > -ERIC

Response:

Eric, I think I have one for the 98 or possibly the 97.  I’ll send it to ya for the postage. Let me know, Ted – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Keep trying on eBay.  I purchased one for a Cougar a few years ago. > Anyone know where I may obtain a 1998 Explorer Factory Brouchure ?? > Any help appreciated !! > Thanks, > -ERIC

Response:

Question:

I just bought a 1998 Explorer that I know has automatic lights because they come on at night.  I was reading in the manual that there are 3 settings: Come on during the day and night, come on at night, or work work manually. I was wondering if anyone knew how to change the setting of them.  The manual didn’t say how to do that, it only told you how to set the amount of time they stay on after you shut the car off.

Response:

The part about coming on day and night is probably referring to the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL). Unless your Explorer came from Canada or the previous owner modified it you don’t have it. You have the automatic lights which will only come on when it starts to get dark. You can control how long they stay on after you turn the key off. The other option is manual mode which you control with your regular light switch to the left of your steering wheel. Robert

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just bought a 1998 Explorer that I know has automatic lights because they > come on at night.  I was reading in the manual that there are 3 settings: > Come on during the day and night, come on at night, or work work manually. > I was wondering if anyone knew how to change the setting of them.  The > manual didn’t say how to do that, it only told you how to set the amount of > time they stay on after you shut the car off.

Response:

You can also adjust the amount of ambient light for the on and off trip points.  See your manual or a dealer.  It’s a little confusing, and I don’t remember the details. If you haven’t already done so, after you make your adjustments is a fine time to flip your mirror upside-down, and into maximum upward position to eliminate that big "blind-spot" to the right-front of the vehicle that is caused by the mirror blocking your vision!  Spin it counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise for you K’nucks and Brits!) and watch the wires on the back to make sure you don’t overstress them.  Then flex both ball-joints as needed to move it up and get the right tilt.  Save someone’s life. Rapid Ron ps, If you have the speed-sensitive auto door locks, they can be disabled also.  They are a real pain, generally. — (Remove "SpamFree_" from reply address to send replies)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The part about coming on day and night is probably referring to the Daytime > Running Lamps (DRL). Unless your Explorer came from Canada or the previous > owner modified it you don’t have it. You have the automatic lights which > will only come on when it starts to get dark. You can control how long they > stay on after you turn the key off. The other option is manual mode which > you control with your regular light switch to the left of your steering > wheel. > Robert > I just bought a 1998 Explorer that I know has automatic lights because > they > come on at night.  I was reading in the manual that there are 3 settings: > Come on during the day and night, come on at night, or work work manually. > I was wondering if anyone knew how to change the setting of them.  The > manual didn’t say how to do that, it only told you how to set the amount > of > time they stay on after you shut the car off.

Response:

Question:

Where has Ford hidden this? It has to be on the intake manifold somewhere, but I cannot find it.  A picture/diagram would be nice since I’m not all that mechanically inclined.  Thanks in advance!!!

Response:

> Where has Ford hidden this? It has to be on the intake manifold > somewhere, but I cannot find it.

At the very back of the lower intake manifold, right next to the firewall.  Follow the rubber tube which goes under the upper manifold lip, on the driver side.  You’ll probably have to climb on top of the engine and use an inspection mirror if you want to see it.  Having small hands helps – not much room there…

Response:

Question:

"Opal" > However, the pack of 25 test strips I had to buy (yeah, I remembered to > take extra insulin and pills, but not test strips *sigh*) was $20.79, > where they’d cost about $27 up here. > When you factor in the exchange rate running around 50% right now, it > just isn’t economical for us to go down there, but you ‘mericans can > get some great deals if you came up here! <vbg> > Kelly > T2, insulin 3x & Avandia 4mg 2x daily.

It depends on insurance coverage really.  3 boxes of 100 test strips cost me $7.00 at the pharmacy.  I have to get 30 days supply and pay for each script separately.  However, if I have my endo write 1 prescription for everything I need, insulin, alcohol swabs, lancets, test strips and anything else my insurance company will provide direct through the mail I pay $20.00 for a 3 month supply.  If I re-order the items separately I pay separate co-pays, so I try to keep everything on a pretty tight schedule.  Thankfully, my endo usually gives a few extra of everything I need so I always have a little extra to prevent my having to re-order items separately. Sadly, good insurance coverage is not as common as no insurance coverage in the USA.  WE have some of the best health care workers in the world, but our system sucks big time. Derek

Response:

I agree, and so do more and more insurance companies, but it’s a slow process getting them all on board.  My personal cost for the pump and first three months supplies was $0.00 because Minimed wrote off the 10% I was supposed to pay out of pocket. Derek

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I noticed some "negotiated savings" on the statements I received > from the two insurance companies I have coverage with.  The bottom > line may vary. But $5-6000 seems to be the right ball-park. > A small price to pay if you reap superior control benefits for years > from it. > minimed is $5000.00 USA.  insurance varies from 100% coverage to partial > coverage, except where pre-existing condition clauses are in affect. > Derek > — > | Gary Eheman  -  eheman at-sign attglobal.net             | > |                 Change "invalid" to "net"  to reply      |

Response:

> The interesting thing is, it’s also $5000 in Canada, which is $3400 in US > dollars.  Most medical things are cheaper here for some reason…

Actually, having just come back from Virginia, I noticed that, in general, prices on most things are quite similar.  Wendy’s 99 cent menu has the same stuff on it, although my usual Wendy’s lunch cost $4.67 down there, where it is (I think) about $6.30 up here.  The teddy bear I was going to buy for Lynne was $18.99 US, and they run about the same up here. (Needless to say, I didn’t buy it. <g>) However, the pack of 25 test strips I had to buy (yeah, I remembered to take extra insulin and pills, but not test strips *sigh*) was $20.79, where they’d cost about $27 up here. When you factor in the exchange rate running around 50% right now, it just isn’t economical for us to go down there, but you ‘mericans can get some great deals if you came up here! <vbg> Kelly T2, insulin 3x & Avandia 4mg 2x daily. ICQ#85063563 Buddha is worshiped chiefly in Buddha Pest. Before you buy.

Response:

I noticed some "negotiated savings" on the statements I received from the two insurance companies I have coverage with.  The bottom line may vary. But $5-6000 seems to be the right ball-park. A small price to pay if you reap superior control benefits for years from it. > minimed is $5000.00 USA.  insurance varies from 100% coverage to partial > coverage, except where pre-existing condition clauses are in affect. > Derek

– | Gary Eheman  -  eheman at-sign attglobal.net             | |                 Change "invalid" to "net"  to reply      |

Response:

> Can anyone provide info information as the price of Insulin Pumpers? Thank > You

minimed is $5000.00 USA.  insurance varies from 100% coverage to partial coverage, except where pre-existing condition clauses are in affect. Derek

Response:

> > Can anyone provide info information as the price of Insulin Pumpers? Thank > minimed is $5000.00 USA.  insurance varies from 100% coverage to partial > coverage, except where pre-existing condition clauses are in affect.

The interesting thing is, it’s also $5000 in Canada, which is $3400 in US dollars.  Most medical things are cheaper here for some reason… Dave Stampe, Ph.D. (EE & Cog Sci) Type 1, 25+ yr, pump+humalog, food allergies Compl: 2xPRP laser, kidney, tendonitis Last Hb1Ac: 5.2  (6.0 typical) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Can anyone provide info information as the price of Insulin Pumpers? Thank You

Response:

>Can anyone provide info information as the price of Insulin Pumpers? Thank >You

I don’t have a hard and fast quote to give, but I was told that my Minimed pump was around $5000 (USA).  (insurance paid for mine). I imagine that all the pumps are similarly priced. — dx as Type 1 in Mar 00, H & L MDI "I’d rather be loved by only me,     than create a facade and be loved by no one." — wombn "Never give up", Winston Churchill www.mindspring.com/~wombn

Response:

  Please don’t post on usenet using a browser, or if you do, learn/read/use help to find out how to post in ascii txt instead of html. TIA

Response:

<<I hear a (for lack of a better explanation) = strange noise from the passenger side rear when it idles>> Exhaust? (pipes worn or damaged)??  Just guessing.

Response:

  I think it might be your electric fuel pump.Mine whines alot.         — Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email — always at Talkway.

Response:

  I think it might be your electric fuel pump.Mine whines alot.         > <<I hear a (for lack of a better explanation) = > strange noise from the passenger side rear when it idles>> > Exhaust? (pipes worn or damaged)??  Just guessing.

– Posted via Talkway – http://www.talkway.com Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email — always at Talkway.

Response:

Was hoping that someone out here would have an answer for me… I have a 1998 Explorer Sport, with about 9700 miles on it.. everything works great … EXCEPT.. I hear a (for lack of a better explanation) strange noise from the passenger side rear when it idles.   You have to drive it for about 10 minutes then let it idle in order to get the noise.  God help me I can’t describe it.. almost like.. two pieces of sandpaper rubbing together.  Other then this noise the idle is fine.  I have taken it to the dealership and they can’t find anything.. of course Murphy’s law it doesn’t make the noise when they drive it.  Anyone have any ideas?  It doesn’t happen often.. but often enough that I am finding it annoying. I do a ton of highway driving with stop go  stop go.  Can this be the problem?  also, had kids in the car that fooled with the 4wheel drive knob..  can that be the culprit?  I live in Boston so potholes are a way of life.  Other then those things can’t think of anything that could have caused it. I am planning a big trip over the summer and want to make sure that everything is up to snuff. Thanks is advance for your help. If you could be so kind as to replay to my email that would be great. Thanks

Response:

Question:

www.helm.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking for a good shop manual for my 98 Explorer as I am tired > of paying for some of these pricey service jobs.  I have found the > Haynes for around $20, but can I pick up a manual that deals > specifically for my year that has more detail? > thanks > Jeff Peterson > Up in the mountains of Colorado > http://www.norske.org/travel/colorado/index.htm

Response:

I am looking for a good shop manual for my 98 Explorer as I am tired of paying for some of these pricey service jobs.  I have found the Haynes for around $20, but can I pick up a manual that deals specifically for my year that has more detail? thanks Jeff Peterson Up in the mountains of Colorado http://www.norske.org/travel/colorado/index.htm

Response:

How do you like the quality of these manuals?  I  found the following: 1998 EXPLORER/MOUNTAINEER SERVICE MANUAL Notice : Contains attached items! Item No: FCS1219998 Price:  $180.00 Language: English Media Type: Paper INSTRUCTIONS AND PROCEDURES FOR ROUTINE REPAIR ADJUSTMENT MAINTENANCE WORK DIAGNOSIS/TESTING AND REMOVAL/INSTALLATION OF PARTS FOR VARIOUS VEHICLE SYSTEMS. Models and Years Covered EXPLORER  1998 MOUNTAINEER  1998 The following item(s) are included with the purchase of the above item. (1) FCS12199981 (2) FCS12199982 > www.helm.com

Before you buy.

Response:

If you find the right source you can get it on CD-ROM(the Ford version that is) for a decent price. We have them in our shop but I dont know if they would be available to the public. * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

I would like the CD ROM version but was told they were not offered to the public.  Does anyone know a source? TIA chas

> If you find the right source you can get it on CD-ROM(the > Ford version that is) for a decent price. We have them in > our shop but I dont know if they would be available to the > public. > * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find

related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

> I would like the CD ROM version but was told they were not offered to the > public.  Does anyone know a source? > TIA > chas

Helm will sell you the CD ROM Version for $250 (Item Number FCS1277398). Check it out at www.helminc.com or specifically – http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Style=&Sku=FCS1277398&itemty… (it is a long link and might not work, be sure you get it all). Regards, Ed White

Response:

I bought the CD version for the 2000-2001 model trucks on EBAY.  If you aren’t in a hurry that might be an option. It cost me less than the paper version from Helm.  After using the CD I miss the paper version in some ways. Good Luck – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I would like the CD ROM version but was told they were not offered to the > public.  Does anyone know a source? > TIA > chas > If you find the right source you can get it on CD-ROM(the > Ford version that is) for a decent price. We have them in > our shop but I dont know if they would be available to the > public. > * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find > related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is > Beautiful

Response:

Question:

Does anyone know where I can get a Wiring Diagram for the radio in my 1998 Explorer XLT.  I have the dual media radio (CD and Cassette).  Specifically, I am looking for the wire that activates the audio mute so I can have my cell phone auto mute the radio on a call.  The radio has a phone mute button, so I imagine it can also be externally activated by grounding or powering a wire.  Any help would be appreciated. the -nospam) Thanks Anthony

Response:

I have a schematic for my 99XLT.  The radio information is limited, but they do show the pinout for connector C228, a 20 pin connector to the radio.  Pin 9 goes to the vehicle speed sensor.  I believe that’s used to adjust volume.  Maybe you can do something with that.  Don’t see anything marked "mute". Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Does anyone know where I can get a Wiring Diagram for the radio > in my 1998 Explorer XLT.  I have the dual media radio (CD and > Cassette).  Specifically, I am looking for the wire that > activates the audio mute so I can have my cell phone auto mute > the radio on a call.  The radio has a phone mute button, so I > imagine it can also be externally activated by grounding or > powering a wire.  Any help would be appreciated. > the -nospam) > Thanks > Anthony

Response:

Question:

 I have a 4 door base model with the 15×7 rims.  What is the tallest and or widest tire anyone hear has succesfully used?  I have heard of people moving up in size and the vehicle shakes and shimmies too much for them.  Any suggestions? Thanks-  Matt

Response:

Yeah i spent quite a while researching on this topic…. I finally came down to one size 30×9.5×15. I have a set and they’re doin fine….. only downside is steering feels a little stiffer… well that would happen in any truck/car anywaz. Go for the BFGoodrich All-Terrains, Pirelli Scorpion AT or Michelin AT LTX…. Michelin is the best of them all…. * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

Will these fit on a 15X7 rim?  I am noting an aftermarket 15X7 Pomona rim. Nothing expensive but I sure think it looks MUCH better than thos stock rims.  Thanks for any info! -Matt

> Yeah i spent quite a while researching on this topic…. > I finally came down to one size 30×9.5×15. I have a set and > they’re doin fine….. only downside is steering feels a > little stiffer… well that would happen in any truck/car > anywaz. Go for the BFGoodrich All-Terrains, Pirelli > Scorpion AT or Michelin AT LTX…. Michelin is the best of > them all…. > * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find

related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

Yup… they’re made for any stock 15×7 tires.. if your really worried about it go to a local tire store and ask them to measure the rim for you… they won ‘t charge u…. * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

Thanks Manik!  <G>

> Yup… they’re made for any stock 15×7 tires.. > if your really worried about it go to a local tire store > and ask them to measure the rim for you… they won ‘t > charge u…. > * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find

related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

Question:

Hey guys,     While everyone is still reeeling from the amount of MPG related posts in this newsgroup (no, I don’t understand it either…they’re TRUCKS).  Anyway, I thought I’d throw my hat, or gastank as it were, into the ring.  What’s the best way to achieve maximum mileage on the highway.  I’m gonna assume that you should sit on the lowest revs possible in high gear, this is logical yeah?     I can sit at about 90km/h at about 1800rpm; does this achieve better mileage than sitting on 100km/h at 2000rpm?     Actually, I suppose it doesn’t matter, ‘cos I’m gonna speed anyway.  I just thought it to be quite interesting.     By the way, I make no apology for using metric.  You buggers should have followed the rest of the world…away…AWAY from imperial I say…evil foul creature.  16 somethings don’t make 1 anything, except in imperial measurements.     Oh well. I will ponder these quandarries whilst waiting for my bowels to move. Deeeeep in thought. Well, deep in something. Probably stinky. BK

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey guys, >     While everyone is still reeeling from the amount of MPG related posts in > this newsgroup (no, I don’t understand it either…they’re TRUCKS). Anyway, > I thought I’d throw my hat, or gastank as it were, into the ring. What’s > the best way to achieve maximum mileage on the highway.  I’m gonna assume > that you should sit on the lowest revs possible in high gear, this is > logical yeah? >     I can sit at about 90km/h at about 1800rpm; does this achieve better > mileage than sitting on 100km/h at 2000rpm? >     Actually, I suppose it doesn’t matter, ‘cos I’m gonna speed anyway.  I > just thought it to be quite interesting. >     By the way, I make no apology for using metric.  You buggers should have > followed the rest of the world…away…AWAY from imperial I say…evil foul > creature.  16 somethings don’t make 1 anything, except in imperial > measurements. >     Oh well. > I will ponder these quandarries whilst waiting for my bowels to move. > Deeeeep in thought. > Well, deep in something. > Probably stinky. > BK

I got the best mileage I ever got out of my Explorer at 75MPH. When I moved back to the Western U.S. the speedlimits went up. I usually got around 18.5-19 MPG at 68MPH. With the speed limits set at 75 here, I get 20.5 MPG. You will have to do the conversions yourself from our imperial measurements. It doesn’t always hold true that you want the lowest RPM with the lowest gear ratio. You want your engine to work at its most efficient level. The only way to determine what it is, is to try it yourself. Robert Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

My experience (based on the fact that I’m on my third leased Explorer) shows that cruising along at 80-90km/h and 2000 rpm or less translates into a commendable highway MPG. Gas might be cheap in the USA, but it’s not in Canada thanks to our wonderful taxation system. Stephen 1998 Explorer XL [4wd, 4-door, Michelin LTX M/S, etc] > I can sit at about 90km/h at about 1800rpm; does this achieve better > mileage than sitting on 100km/h at 2000rpm?

–

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My experience (based on the fact that I’m on my third leased Explorer) >shows that cruising along at 80-90km/h and 2000 rpm or less translates >into a commendable highway MPG. >Gas might be cheap in the USA, but it’s not in Canada thanks to our >wonderful taxation system. >Stephen >1998 Explorer XL [4wd, 4-door, Michelin LTX M/S, etc] > I can sit at about 90km/h at about 1800rpm; does this achieve better > mileage than sitting on 100km/h at 2000rpm?

There are so many variables here that one can only make general observations. Here are some of the variables involved: Engine type;body style; transmission type; final gear ratio; tire size; tread style; tire pressure. I had an F-250HD SC w/460 & 4.10:1 that got better mileage at 75 than at 55 mph. Bill Funk    "When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading."         – Henny Youngman

Response:

Stephen, where abouts in canada do you live? I’m in Edm, AB. And yes the taxation on gas is horrible! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >My experience (based on the fact that I’m on my third leased Explorer) >shows that cruising along at 80-90km/h and 2000 rpm or less translates >into a commendable highway MPG. >Gas might be cheap in the USA, but it’s not in Canada thanks to our >wonderful taxation system. >Stephen >1998 Explorer XL [4wd, 4-door, Michelin LTX M/S, etc] > I can sit at about 90km/h at about 1800rpm; does this achieve better > mileage than sitting on 100km/h at 2000rpm? >–

Response:

Question:

Hi all, The rear wiper on my 1998 explorer has just stopped working, I have checked the fuse and I believe the relay although that wasn’t where the manual said it should be, and they seem OK… if I switch on the wiper I can hear the relay clicking. Any ideas anyone? How difficult is it to get the trim panel off on the rear door to get at the wiper motor itself? Also, I have noticed recently a loudish tapping/rattling sound which is comming from somewhere underneath. It is most noticeable when driving past a brick wall or something with the window down. It seems to be more related to road speed than engine speed although this is difficult to tell for sure. Again if anyone has any ideas I would be grateful. Thanks, Dave. — To reply directly remove the hyphens!

Response:

Same rear wiper problem on my ‘98 Sport.  It would make a clicking sound but would not move.  The dealer ended up replacing the motor because it was not grounded right and the motor shortened out.  Took them less than an hour to replace. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi all, >The rear wiper on my 1998 explorer has just stopped working, I have checked >the fuse and I believe the relay although that wasn’t where the manual said >it should be, and they seem OK… if I switch on the wiper I can hear the >relay clicking. Any ideas anyone? How difficult is it to get the trim panel >off on the rear door to get at the wiper motor itself? >Thanks, >Dave. >– >To reply directly remove the hyphens!

Response:

Mines bad too-common problem on Explorers. — Rgds, Jeff W. <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>< > <><> – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi all, >The rear wiper on my 1998 explorer has just stopped working, I have checked >the fuse and I believe the relay although that wasn’t where the manual said >it should be, and they seem OK

Response: