Question:

So Rodney… Do you know how to change the light or what??? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If you are related to David Barrett let him do it! > hum…… I wonder if I know who you are???? > How do I change the brake light in a 1998 explorer?

Response:

kids stuff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > So Rodney… > Do you know how to change the light or what??? > If you are related to David Barrett let him do it! > hum…… I wonder if I know who you are???? > > How do I change the brake light in a 1998 explorer?

Response:

Hi Lisa, I assume you mean the one in one of the taillights.  Not the one over the tailgate… It’s easy as could be: open the tailgate, use your large phillips-head screwdriver to take out the screw that holds on the lens, gently remove the lens, and unseat the bulb (a half-twist I think…).  Put in the new bulb, put the lens back on, screw it in, shut the tailgate. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->How do I change the brake light in a 1998 explorer?

Response:

If you are related to David Barrett let him do it! hum…… I wonder if I know who you are???? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > How do I change the brake light in a 1998 explorer?

Response:

Rich, Thanks.  I had figured all that out.  But when I tried to pull the cover off, it felt like it was going to break–like I had to do something other than remove the screws. Lisa. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi Lisa, > I assume you mean the one in one of the taillights.  Not the one over the > tailgate… > It’s easy as could be: open the tailgate, use your large phillips-head > screwdriver to take out the screw that holds on the lens, gently remove the > lens, and unseat the bulb (a half-twist I think…).  Put in the new bulb, put > the lens back on, screw it in, shut the tailgate. >How do I change the brake light in a 1998 explorer?

Response:

How do I change the brake light in a 1998 explorer?

Response:

Question:

I agree, which is why I’ve already ordered some PIAA fogs that can be turned on & off seprately from the headlights and stock fogs. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >There seems to be a fair amount of chastising for someone who wants their fog >lights to work when they want them to work. My reason for making them >independent is quite simple, and I believe quite valid. I arrive late at >night at campgrounds, and to be nice, I turn off my headlights and just use >my fog lights to find a campsite. This way I don’t illuminate the campground >and annoy other people. Nothing worse than sitting around a campfire to be >beamed on by headlights. Anyway, some people do have valid reasons…. >-Glen

Response:

… >It’s quite >effective and you can even approach freeway speed with less than 50 feet >visibility (I’m talking about REMOTE freeways).

… Yeah, right. 65mph with 50 foot visibility. Wait till you find that guy running with no parking lights!! Or the deer. Why do people think this is OK??? Bill Funk      All I ask is the chance to prove that money doesn’t buy happiness.

Response:

It doesn’t matter what your reason is.   It is your vehicle and you should be able to do what you want to it.  If you want to drive with only the fog lights on that should be reason enough.  Isn’t it bad enough we have to deal with enough government mandates that include airbags and day time driving lights.  Let the Engineers get back to designing cars instead of the government.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->There seems to be a fair amount of chastising for someone who wants their fog >lights to work when they want them to work. My reason for making them >independent is quite simple, and I believe quite valid. I arrive late at >night at campgrounds, and to be nice, I turn off my headlights and just use >my fog lights to find a campsite. This way I don’t illuminate the campground >and annoy other people. Nothing worse than sitting around a campfire to be >beamed on by headlights. Anyway, some people do have valid reasons…. >-Glen

Response:

The joys of DRLs … standard with all Ford products (and everyone else’s vehicles) sold in Canada. Stephen >  I arrive late at > night at campgrounds, and to be nice, I turn off my headlights and just use > my fog lights to find a campsite.

–

Response:

I’m surprised that anyone bothered to tell Les how to do this.  It seems that there are a good number of drivers out there who don’t understand that car lights are also there to be seen by others.  Look at the number of drivers who refuse to turn on any lights, (or just parking lights), at dawn, dusk, and during inclement weather.  Apparently their idea is that why turn on lights when they can see the road perfectly well. Regarding Les, why would anyone be so against turning on their parking lights?  They don’t see them while driving.  Unfortunately, many drivers consider themselves cool to just have fog or driving lights on. One last note – why not install colored flourescent lights under the vehicle and just drive at night with them? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Driving with the fog lights on without the low beams is illegal under >most state laws.  It is foolish to drive in fog without at least the >parking lights on, since other cars rely on your lights to see you. >Meanwhile, many aim their foglights up into the eyes of other >motorists, and use them as a**hole weapons by leaving them on all the >time.  I’m sure you’re not one of those people. >Correctly installed foglights are aimed down-  not even level,  since >their purpose is to illuminate things close to the front of the car >when it’s foggy.  Factory fog lights are anemic substitutes for real >fog lights anyway,  thanks to the a**hole factor above. >Do you REALLY want your factory foglights to be on without even the >parking lights?

Response:

There seems to be a fair amount of chastising for someone who wants their fog lights to work when they want them to work. My reason for making them independent is quite simple, and I believe quite valid. I arrive late at night at campgrounds, and to be nice, I turn off my headlights and just use my fog lights to find a campsite. This way I don’t illuminate the campground and annoy other people. Nothing worse than sitting around a campfire to be beamed on by headlights. Anyway, some people do have valid reasons…. -Glen

Response:

If you’ve lived in fog country you know that in dense fog your regular headlights hamper your vision.  Having light directed more down than forward (as in fog lights) increases visibility of the lines painted on roads, and reduces light that is reflected off of the fog and back into your eyes.  If you’ve driven through areas that typically have dense fog, you might have noticed that in some places special markings (cross stipes) are painted on the shoulder line so you’ll know what and where the exits are.  It’s quite effective and you can even approach freeway speed with less than 50 feet visibility (I’m talking about REMOTE freeways).  I’m just telling you the way it is, duh, it’s not very safe to do this in the city. If you stall you better get your ass way over on the shoulder because many people somewhat straddle the white line. And you really need to have your parking lights on so the crazy guy behind you has time to at least slow down before he runs into you!

Response:

>Based on my replies, I take it as no one knows how to do this. >On my new ‘99 XLT with fog lights, how can I turn them on without having >the >parking lights on? Is there some way to bypass that?

It’s quite easy. All it takes is a switch on the dash, a relay, and some wire & a fuse, along with some time on your part. But it’s still not a good idea. Bill Funk      All I ask is the chance to prove that money doesn’t buy happiness.

Response:

>Based on my replies, I take it as no one knows how to do this.

Driving with the fog lights on without the low beams is illegal under most state laws.  It is foolish to drive in fog without at least the parking lights on, since other cars rely on your lights to see you. Meanwhile, many aim their foglights up into the eyes of other motorists, and use them as a**hole weapons by leaving them on all the time.  I’m sure you’re not one of those people. Correctly installed foglights are aimed down-  not even level,  since their purpose is to illuminate things close to the front of the car when it’s foggy.  Factory fog lights are anemic substitutes for real fog lights anyway,  thanks to the a**hole factor above. Do you REALLY want your factory foglights to be on without even the parking lights? Find the BROWN wire that runs to the foglight switch.  Remove that, and connect a wire that’s hot all the time.  That way you can leave them on even with the engine off, and run your still-under-warranty battery down. And don’t forget to turn your low beams on whenever the fog lights are on. dr bob

Response:

On my new ‘99 XLT with fog lights, how can I turn them on without having the parking lights on? Is there some way to bypass that? — J. Les Gainous Want to see it? –> http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous/Explorer.htm Web:   http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous

Response:

>On my new ‘99 XLT with fog lights, how can I turn them on without having the >parking lights on? Is there some way to bypass that?

Why? dr bob

Response:

I can’t even turn on the fog lights without the headlights on my 97 Sport! Fog light switch must be wired into the low beam switch. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >On my new ‘99 XLT with fog lights, how can I turn them on without having the >parking lights on? Is there some way to bypass that? >– >J. Les Gainous >Want to see it? –> http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous/Explorer.htm >Web:   http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous

Response:

Because I would like the fog lights on by themselves. — J. Les Gainous Want to see it? –> http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous/Explorer.htm Web:   http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->On my new ‘99 XLT with fog lights, how can I turn them on without having the >parking lights on? Is there some way to bypass that? >Why? >dr bob

Response:

I guess the consumers wanted the fog lights to work without the headlights, so the obliged in ‘99. Now we all want no parking lights, but just the fog lights! J. Les Gainous Want to see it? –> http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous/Explorer.htm Web:   http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I can’t even turn on the fog lights without the headlights on my 97 Sport! >Fog light switch must be wired into the low beam switch. >On my new ‘99 XLT with fog lights, how can I turn them on without having >the >parking lights on? Is there some way to bypass that? >– >J. Les Gainous >Want to see it? –> http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous/Explorer.htm >Web:   http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous

Response:

Perhaps you really want DRLs?? Stephen 1998 Explorer XL [4wd, fog lights, DRLs, Michelin LTX M/S, etc] > Now we all want no parking lights, but just the fog > lights!

–

Response:

>I guess the consumers wanted the fog lights to work without the headlights, >so the obliged in ‘99. Now we all want no parking lights, but just the fog >lights!

Wouldn’t you want the parking lights to let the people behind you know you’re there? Bill Funk      All I ask is the chance to prove that money doesn’t buy happiness.

Response:

Based on my replies, I take it as no one knows how to do this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >On my new ‘99 XLT with fog lights, how can I turn them on without having the >parking lights on? Is there some way to bypass that? >– >J. Les Gainous >Want to see it? –> http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous/Explorer.htm >Web:   http://home.earthlink.net/~lesgainous

Response:

Question:

Hi, The Pathfinder rear door handles is harder to reach for most kids and you may find that having an Explorer is better because of the space, power, room, and more features that you wouldn’t find in the Pathfinder. 1999 EBs have more optional goodies like the reverse sensing system, side impact airbags, rear load leveling (The ’98’s have both load leveling and adaptive/height adjustable suspension, but it could be unreliable, it sounds like an useful feature if you want to raise the Explorer an inch for better clearance and having better control of the vehicle), color-coded steering wheel, and some neat styling differences from the ’98s. If money is a concern, take a look ot the ’98s. Otherwise, the ’99s would do. Good luck. Shane

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My friend is trying to decide to buy one of these: > 1998 Explorer Eddy Bauer V8 <sp > 1999 The same > 1999 Pathfinder > These are all new, the 98 is a leftover.   Can someone who knows, > comment on which of these > would require the least amount of shop time, and have the highest > reliability? > She may want to tow a small boat (24ft or less), and cart her son and > his friends around to > soccer games, and stuff like that. > Any first hand information is welcome. After reading the newsgroups, I >   > don’t see any patterns in > unhappy owners of either. > ^ remove  /nospam  to > respond directly

i test drove the explorer and the pathfinder. the pathfinder rode more like a car and the explorer was more ‘trucky’. the explorer is heavier and has a much greater payload. if safety is important, all the crash tests i read showed that the driver of the pathfinder was unlikely to survive a rollover, while the explorer was the safest of the sports utilities vehicles. i got the explorer.

Response:

>My friend is trying to decide to buy one of these: >1998 Explorer Eddy Bauer V8 <sp >1999 The same >1999 Pathfinder >These are all new, the 98 is a leftover.   Can someone who knows, comment on >which of these >would require the least amount of shop time, and have the highest >reliability?

Both cars have good reliability records.  I’ve looked at various Pathfinders,  and decided that until this year’s models the luggage space in the rear wasn’t adequate for my use.  The later ones now have the spare underneath and a bit more inside room back there,  but not quite up to the Explorer I’m used to. The Pathfinder has been rated well for casual offroading, maybe better than the Explorer.  Otherwise,  on-highway ride and handling are a bit subjective– go with the one you are most comfortable in. >She may want to tow a small boat (24ft or less), and cart her son and his >friends around to >soccer games, and stuff like that.

A 24′ boat is not a ’small’ boat as far as towables.  Be sure to get the towing package on whatever you buy. I’d also like to point out that the use pattern you describe is much better served by something in the minivan category.  SUV’s are trucks, so they ride, handle, stop, and guzzle gas like trucks.  Minivans have more space, are easire to get in and out of, park easier, hold more of the socker team, and generally act more like big station wagons than small trucks.  And they cost less. Potential SUV buyers would do themselves a favor by renting one for a few days and seeing if it’s what they really want. 4WD or AWD add considerably to both the initial and ongoing ownership costs, so be very careful when you are deciding on that option. Soccer games seldom require 4WD in the parking lots, and boat launching at regular marina ramps definitely does not. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Any first hand information is welcome. After reading the newsgroups, I don’t >see any patterns in >unhappy owners of either. >                                                   ^ remove  /nospam  to >respond directly >                               Thank you..

Response:

My friend is trying to decide to buy one of these: 1998 Explorer Eddy Bauer V8 <sp 1999 The same 1999 Pathfinder These are all new, the 98 is a leftover.   Can someone who knows, comment on which of these would require the least amount of shop time, and have the highest reliability? She may want to tow a small boat (24ft or less), and cart her son and his friends around to soccer games, and stuff like that. Any first hand information is welcome. After reading the newsgroups, I don’t see any patterns in unhappy owners of either.                                                    ^ remove  /nospam  to respond directly                                Thank you..

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My friend is trying to decide to buy one of these: > 1998 Explorer Eddy Bauer V8 <sp > 1999 The same > 1999 Pathfinder > These are all new, the 98 is a leftover.   Can someone who knows, > comment on which of these > would require the least amount of shop time, and have the highest > reliability? > She may want to tow a small boat (24ft or less), and cart her son and > his friends around to > soccer games, and stuff like that. > Any first hand information is welcome. After reading the newsgroups, I

  > don’t see any patterns in > unhappy owners of either. > ^ remove  /nospam  to > respond directly > Thank you..

I had disqualified the Pathfinder from my choices because it didn’t have enough storage space inside. Ben — Ben Kaufman antispam: To Email me, change domain from spam_sync to pobox.  - 12/29/98

Response:

Question:

>Here is the GM part number you need…. >Part Number: 15685148 >Description: Protector >Thing works sweet, only cost $7.53  It is a clear plastic sticker simular

to those on the EB and >Premium Sports fender flairs. I cut mine down as the piece is way to big.

I cut the sticker to the >proper length and width leaving enough to roll up and over the drip edge

under the rear window. It >seems that the wiper actually bounces off of that ledge on it’s way down to

the bump stop. I bent >the wiper arm to give a good contact to the rear window and that was that.

Used a squirt bottle to >wet the window and hit the switch.. wiper now works through-out it’s entire

cycle and comes to rest >nicely on the "protector" sticker.  Won’t it be nice to hit the rear wiper

and actually be able to >see clearly through the rear window?

Cool.  Thanks! – Jon Pearsall, ‘98 Sport SOHC

Response:

Here is the GM part number you need…. Part Number: 15685148 Description: Protector Thing works sweet, only cost $7.53  It is a clear plastic sticker simular to those on the EB and Premium Sports fender flairs. I cut mine down as the piece is way to big.  I cut the sticker to the proper length and width leaving enough to roll up and over the drip edge under the rear window. It seems that the wiper actually bounces off of that ledge on it’s way down to the bump stop. I bent the wiper arm to give a good contact to the rear window and that was that. Used a squirt bottle to wet the window and hit the switch.. wiper now works through-out it’s entire cycle and comes to rest nicely on the "protector" sticker.  Won’t it be nice to hit the rear wiper and actually be able to see clearly through the rear window? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I did the same thing, I can bend the wiper arm and it does a nice job >cleaning the window. >Unfortunately all the filth from the window runs down the back of the >Explorer. Then you have the >wiper blade grind it into the paint….while the wiper blade rests there (I >am sure jiggling and >bouncing while you go down the road.. the rest of the truck does) in that >mixure while pressed >firmly against the finish. This can’t possibly be a good thing. >Yes, I’m noticing this, too, now that the winter weather has kicked in and >the road salt, etc is out there.  Think I’m going to bend the arm back the >way it was and just complain to the dealer about it and try and get a new >wiper arm with a nice new spring. > The other day I was behind a new Blazer and noticed it’s wiper also rests >against the tail >gate. I also noticed a faint outline of some kind of clear sticker that is >under the blade surface >protecting the paint. I am going to call the dealer tomorrow (Chevy) to see >if they sell this clear >sticker, if so I am gonna grab one, enjoy a nice clear window and have the >piece of mind that my >paint isn’t being wore off by my wiper blade. >Let us know what happens! >BTW if you remove the wiper arm, you will see there are actually two metal >stops (before the hing) >that hold the wiper up. If these weren’t there (or shortened) it would >allow the wiper to move >closer to the window. I might just take my Dremmel tool and shorten these >stops if all else fails. >Yeah.  I noticed that;  don’t have any way tools to do something like that. >I also briefly thought about grabbing a pair of needle nose vise-grips and >trying to detach the one end of the spring then giving it another turn or >two to tighten it.  Looks like a fairly strong spring so I decided not to >muck with it. >- Jon Pearsall, ‘98 Sport SOHC >1998 Explorer Sport >>With the rear wiper OFF, hit the button that causes it swipe once and >>quickly run to the back of the truck (you’ll probably have to stand >outside >>the truck and reach inside the window to be able run fast enough).  When >you >>get to the back of the truck, and the arm is sweeping back down but is in >>the middle of the window, grab it and hold tight!  Don’t worry; it doesn’t >>seem to hurt anything; the engineers probably took into account the arm >>getting blocked by something (ice, etc.).  Now that the arm is in >suspended >>in the middle of the window, I’ll bet you’ll easily see that the the edges >>of the blade just don’t touch the glass at all.  Put just a little >pressure >>on the arm, though, with your hand, and you’ll see the blade will then >flex >>with the curvature of the glass and touch the glass everywhere. >>I think the problem is that the tension spring in the arm that holds the >>blade against the glass weakens and then doesn’t put enough pressure on >the >>arm to force the blade to flex enough.  Probably a slight design flaw sine >>the rear glass in the ’98s is more curved than previous models.  I’m >>guessing it got worse for me over the summer ’cause when I washed the >truck, >>I’d swing the arm outwards (like it allows) to clean underneath it.  This >>probably stretched the spring, though, and continued to weaken it slightly >>over time.  I fixed it by just carefully bending the arm inwards.   Was >very >>careful (and that arm is a pretty strong bugger!) and results were good. >>Blade now touches the glass everwhere.  Only problem now, though, is that >>the blade touches the metal body of the truck when the wiper is off and >the >>arm is in its rester.  I suppose that’s gonna cause trouble with the paint >>over time.  I’ll probably just bend the arm back and then complain to my >>dealer about the problem. >>>Ugh, this has driven me nuts over the holiday weekend.  My rear window >>wiper >>>on my 98′ Explorer XLT misses the middle third of the back window.  It >hits >>>the first part and the final part, just not the middle where it is needed >>>most.  To the best of my knowledge, it has always done this.  I have >owned >>>this truck for about 2 months so far and I love everything except for the >>>tire noise (I have the Firestone tires, yuck!) and this rear window >thing? >>>Does anyone have any ideas for adjusting it, or is it back to the >>dealership >>>(yuck!)?

Response:

> I did the same thing, I can bend the wiper arm and it does a nice job

cleaning the window. >Unfortunately all the filth from the window runs down the back of the

Explorer. Then you have the >wiper blade grind it into the paint….while the wiper blade rests there (I

am sure jiggling and >bouncing while you go down the road.. the rest of the truck does) in that

mixure while pressed >firmly against the finish. This can’t possibly be a good thing.

Yes, I’m noticing this, too, now that the winter weather has kicked in and the road salt, etc is out there.  Think I’m going to bend the arm back the way it was and just complain to the dealer about it and try and get a new wiper arm with a nice new spring. > The other day I was behind a new Blazer and noticed it’s wiper also rests against the tail >gate. I also noticed a faint outline of some kind of clear sticker that is

under the blade surface >protecting the paint. I am going to call the dealer tomorrow (Chevy) to see

if they sell this clear >sticker, if so I am gonna grab one, enjoy a nice clear window and have the

piece of mind that my >paint isn’t being wore off by my wiper blade.

Let us know what happens! >BTW if you remove the wiper arm, you will see there are actually two metal

stops (before the hing) >that hold the wiper up. If these weren’t there (or shortened) it would

allow the wiper to move >closer to the window. I might just take my Dremmel tool and shorten these

stops if all else fails. Yeah.  I noticed that;  don’t have any way tools to do something like that. I also briefly thought about grabbing a pair of needle nose vise-grips and trying to detach the one end of the spring then giving it another turn or two to tighten it.  Looks like a fairly strong spring so I decided not to muck with it. – Jon Pearsall, ‘98 Sport SOHC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->1998 Explorer Sport >With the rear wiper OFF, hit the button that causes it swipe once and >quickly run to the back of the truck (you’ll probably have to stand outside >the truck and reach inside the window to be able run fast enough).  When you >get to the back of the truck, and the arm is sweeping back down but is in >the middle of the window, grab it and hold tight!  Don’t worry; it doesn’t >seem to hurt anything; the engineers probably took into account the arm >getting blocked by something (ice, etc.).  Now that the arm is in suspended >in the middle of the window, I’ll bet you’ll easily see that the the edges >of the blade just don’t touch the glass at all.  Put just a little pressure >on the arm, though, with your hand, and you’ll see the blade will then flex >with the curvature of the glass and touch the glass everywhere. >I think the problem is that the tension spring in the arm that holds the >blade against the glass weakens and then doesn’t put enough pressure on the >arm to force the blade to flex enough.  Probably a slight design flaw sine >the rear glass in the ’98s is more curved than previous models.  I’m >guessing it got worse for me over the summer ’cause when I washed the truck, >I’d swing the arm outwards (like it allows) to clean underneath it.  This >probably stretched the spring, though, and continued to weaken it slightly >over time.  I fixed it by just carefully bending the arm inwards.   Was very >careful (and that arm is a pretty strong bugger!) and results were good. >Blade now touches the glass everwhere.  Only problem now, though, is that >the blade touches the metal body of the truck when the wiper is off and the >arm is in its rester.  I suppose that’s gonna cause trouble with the paint >over time.  I’ll probably just bend the arm back and then complain to my >dealer about the problem. >>Ugh, this has driven me nuts over the holiday weekend.  My rear window >wiper >>on my 98′ Explorer XLT misses the middle third of the back window.  It hits >>the first part and the final part, just not the middle where it is needed >>most.  To the best of my knowledge, it has always done this.  I have owned >>this truck for about 2 months so far and I love everything except for the >>tire noise (I have the Firestone tires, yuck!) and this rear window thing? >>Does anyone have any ideas for adjusting it, or is it back to the >dealership >>(yuck!)?

Response:

        I did the same thing, I can bend the wiper arm and it does a nice job cleaning the window. Unfortunately all the filth from the window runs down the back of the Explorer. Then you have the wiper blade grind it into the paint….while the wiper blade rests there (I am sure jiggling and bouncing while you go down the road.. the rest of the truck does) in that mixure while pressed firmly against the finish. This can’t possibly be a good thing.           The other day I was behind a new Blazer and noticed it’s wiper also rests against the tail gate. I also noticed a faint outline of some kind of clear sticker that is under the blade surface protecting the paint. I am going to call the dealer tomorrow (Chevy) to see if they sell this clear sticker, if so I am gonna grab one, enjoy a nice clear window and have the piece of mind that my paint isn’t being wore off by my wiper blade. BTW if you remove the wiper arm, you will see there are actually two metal stops (before the hing) that hold the wiper up. If these weren’t there (or shortened) it would allow the wiper to move closer to the window. I might just take my Dremmel tool and shorten these stops if all else fails. 1998 Explorer Sport – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->With the rear wiper OFF, hit the button that causes it swipe once and >quickly run to the back of the truck (you’ll probably have to stand outside >the truck and reach inside the window to be able run fast enough).  When you >get to the back of the truck, and the arm is sweeping back down but is in >the middle of the window, grab it and hold tight!  Don’t worry; it doesn’t >seem to hurt anything; the engineers probably took into account the arm >getting blocked by something (ice, etc.).  Now that the arm is in suspended >in the middle of the window, I’ll bet you’ll easily see that the the edges >of the blade just don’t touch the glass at all.  Put just a little pressure >on the arm, though, with your hand, and you’ll see the blade will then flex >with the curvature of the glass and touch the glass everywhere. >I think the problem is that the tension spring in the arm that holds the >blade against the glass weakens and then doesn’t put enough pressure on the >arm to force the blade to flex enough.  Probably a slight design flaw sine >the rear glass in the ’98s is more curved than previous models.  I’m >guessing it got worse for me over the summer ’cause when I washed the truck, >I’d swing the arm outwards (like it allows) to clean underneath it.  This >probably stretched the spring, though, and continued to weaken it slightly >over time.  I fixed it by just carefully bending the arm inwards.   Was very >careful (and that arm is a pretty strong bugger!) and results were good. >Blade now touches the glass everwhere.  Only problem now, though, is that >the blade touches the metal body of the truck when the wiper is off and the >arm is in its rester.  I suppose that’s gonna cause trouble with the paint >over time.  I’ll probably just bend the arm back and then complain to my >dealer about the problem. >Ugh, this has driven me nuts over the holiday weekend.  My rear window >wiper >on my 98′ Explorer XLT misses the middle third of the back window.  It hits >the first part and the final part, just not the middle where it is needed >most.  To the best of my knowledge, it has always done this.  I have owned >this truck for about 2 months so far and I love everything except for the >tire noise (I have the Firestone tires, yuck!) and this rear window thing? >Does anyone have any ideas for adjusting it, or is it back to the >dealership >(yuck!)?

Response:

> getting blocked by something (ice, etc.).  Now that the arm is in suspended > in the middle of the window, I’ll bet you’ll easily see that the the edges > of the blade just don’t touch the glass at all.  Put just a little pressure > on the arm, though, with your hand, and you’ll see the blade will then flex > with the curvature of the glass and touch the glass everywhere. > I think the problem is that the tension spring in the arm that holds the > blade against the glass weakens and then doesn’t put enough pressure on the > arm to force the blade to flex enough.  Probably a slight design flaw sine > the rear glass in the ’98s is more curved than previous models.  I’m

A coworker of mine bought a used 96 limited that had some sort of helper spring on the rear wiper. It it didn’t seem to be real factory since it scraped the hell out of the paint on the arm, but other than that it looked like it was made for the job. Possibly you could find something similar at a local auto-parts store that carries accessories like this? –travis

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I had the same problem with my 98 EB. Took it back to the shop, they readjusted the arm and now it’s working fine. Michael – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I’ve replaced my wiper blade and it still doesn’t wipe the whole area it >covers.  ??  Perhaps there is a certain brand that works best?  Thanks…

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I had the same problem with my ‘98.  Started about a month after I bought it and got worse over the supper.  Its not the wiper blade but the arm… With the rear wiper OFF, hit the button that causes it swipe once and quickly run to the back of the truck (you’ll probably have to stand outside the truck and reach inside the window to be able run fast enough).  When you get to the back of the truck, and the arm is sweeping back down but is in the middle of the window, grab it and hold tight!  Don’t worry; it doesn’t seem to hurt anything; the engineers probably took into account the arm getting blocked by something (ice, etc.).  Now that the arm is in suspended in the middle of the window, I’ll bet you’ll easily see that the the edges of the blade just don’t touch the glass at all.  Put just a little pressure on the arm, though, with your hand, and you’ll see the blade will then flex with the curvature of the glass and touch the glass everywhere. I think the problem is that the tension spring in the arm that holds the blade against the glass weakens and then doesn’t put enough pressure on the arm to force the blade to flex enough.  Probably a slight design flaw sine the rear glass in the ’98s is more curved than previous models.  I’m guessing it got worse for me over the summer ’cause when I washed the truck, I’d swing the arm outwards (like it allows) to clean underneath it.  This probably stretched the spring, though, and continued to weaken it slightly over time.  I fixed it by just carefully bending the arm inwards.   Was very careful (and that arm is a pretty strong bugger!) and results were good. Blade now touches the glass everwhere.  Only problem now, though, is that the blade touches the metal body of the truck when the wiper is off and the arm is in its rester.  I suppose that’s gonna cause trouble with the paint over time.  I’ll probably just bend the arm back and then complain to my dealer about the problem. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Ugh, this has driven me nuts over the holiday weekend.  My rear window wiper >on my 98′ Explorer XLT misses the middle third of the back window.  It hits >the first part and the final part, just not the middle where it is needed >most.  To the best of my knowledge, it has always done this.  I have owned >this truck for about 2 months so far and I love everything except for the >tire noise (I have the Firestone tires, yuck!) and this rear window thing? >Does anyone have any ideas for adjusting it, or is it back to the dealership >(yuck!)?

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I’ve replaced my wiper blade and it still doesn’t wipe the whole area it covers.  ??  Perhaps there is a certain brand that works best?  Thanks… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > try replacing the wiper blade (and buying a case of them while you are > at it).  my explorer does that frequently, it eats the wiper blades like > something else!

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try replacing the wiper blade (and buying a case of them while you are at it).  my explorer does that frequently, it eats the wiper blades like something else!

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Ugh, this has driven me nuts over the holiday weekend.  My rear window wiper on my 98′ Explorer XLT misses the middle third of the back window.  It hits the first part and the final part, just not the middle where it is needed most.  To the best of my knowledge, it has always done this.  I have owned this truck for about 2 months so far and I love everything except for the tire noise (I have the Firestone tires, yuck!) and this rear window thing? Does anyone have any ideas for adjusting it, or is it back to the dealership (yuck!)? Also, as a side note, what should I replace the Firestones with?  15" wheels (If I remember correctly) and they will probably last for awhile, but they are noisy as all get out… Thanks for the help… Jason BTW, we had ice here in Dallas last week just before Christmas…  4 wheel drive and anti-lock brakes really DON’T help on solid ICE!!!  :) Thankfully, I found out the easy way pulling out of my apartment complex before I hit the highway!  The thing just slid all over the place.  I finally just parked and ordered a pizza…  :)

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Question:

I’ve seen alot of negative comments about  Firestone AT’s.  I have Goodyear Wranglers on mine and I assumed this were OE (just bought my truck in October).  Does anyone have experience with these as compared to the Firestone’s or Michelin’s. I have nothing to compare, but I can’t say I have any complaints either. — Bob Baxter Navy Blue ‘95 Explorer XLT 4WD

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Firestones on my 96 were CRAP.  I replaced them w/ Dunlop Radial Rover P Metrics at about 17K……I love them! andy

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Had Wranglers on my ‘94 as the second set of tires. They were OK, though a bit noisy, & I changed them after 43000 miles. Mike

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As one who has finally discovered for myself the superb ride and handling of the Michelin LTX M/S tires, albeit only for the past six days, the experience thus far has been great! Wish I’d thought of this earlier. Stephen 1998 Explorer XL (4wd 4-door) > I’ve seen alot of negative comments about  Firestone AT’s.

–

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Question:

Thanks in part to the high marks given to the Michelin LTX M/S tires by other Explorer users, I’ve finally arranged to have them replace those noisy Firestone Wilderness ATs. What’s the suggested front/rear tire pressure for the LTX M/S? I’m using these with a 1998 Explorer XL (4wd 4-door). Stephen —

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> Thanks in part to the high marks given to the Michelin LTX M/S tires by > other Explorer users, I’ve finally arranged to have them replace those > noisy Firestone Wilderness ATs. > What’s the suggested front/rear tire pressure for the LTX M/S? I’m using > these with a 1998 Explorer XL (4wd 4-door). > Stephen > —

Put the Michelin LTX M/S on about 6kmi ago. Initially tried 26psi but they seemed to scrub a bit. Settled on 28psi for the majority of the miles. Just measured the tread depth today as I am going to rotate them tomorrow. Rear tires measured 13/32 across the whole tire while the fronts were 13/32 center, 12/32 edge. So I think I’ll run them up to 29-30psi for this rotation. Bear in mind that I have a ‘97 V8/AWD which is heavier in the front than either of the V6’s. My recommendation would be to try 28-30psi. Ride quality degrades pretty quickly with increased inflation pressure, although the Michelins are still much better than the OEM Firestones. FWIW, Denny

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Question:

Any suggestions for adding after-market (third-party) fog lights to a 1998 Explorer XL without having to muck around with the standard grille? Stephen —

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The oval cutout in the bumper is a great spot for fogs. There are even a couple of holes already drilled there which can be used to mount them. I used some nice, glass-lensed units sold under several brands including KC, that are basically rectangular in shape. I needed only to shim them up about 1/2" and they fit nice and centered in the opening of my ‘97 model, and look like they were made to be there.   =Vic= Bear Gap, PA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Any suggestions for adding after-market (third-party) fog lights to a 1998 > Explorer XL without having to muck around with the standard grille? > Stephen > —

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Have ended up ordering the Ford ones as an option … Stephen > You can also try the Ford ones — they fit in without any mods, > and they look good!

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Question:

I have it in my 97".  Love it.  Really like not having to remember to turn the  lights off.  Also have daytime running lights and that works well too.  As for  the mirror,  autoi dim is a great feature.  Haven’t noticed any problems with  daytime driving, although I agree that it is a bit darker.

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>Anyone have comments on this option.  I test drove a ‘98 with this during >the daytime so I didn’t see it in action.  Even though it was switched >off, it did seem a darker than the regular mirror.

I have this feature on a Grand Cherokee, and would not want to be without it.  It is a transparent feature, and in the daytime (or without lights behind) it seems perfectly normal.  The dimming effect allows much better visibility than the old fashioned manual dimming mirrors. Jim S. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I do realize there is the advantage or disadvantage of having the >headlights switch on automatically but can that be overridden?  I would >ask the dealer but they seem to far too little about the product they >sell. >Thanks, >Jim

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> Why is that any different than flipping a manaul day/night mirror???

Because the electrochromatic mirror does constantly adjust the dimming. It just over compensates when you have a bright light behind you

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Anyone have comments on this option.  I test drove a ‘98 with this during the daytime so I didn’t see it in action.  Even though it was switched off, it did seem a darker than the regular mirror. I do realize there is the advantage or disadvantage of having the headlights switch on automatically but can that be overridden?  I would ask the dealer but they seem to far too little about the product they sell. Thanks, Jim

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> Anyone have comments on this option.  I test drove a ‘98 with this during > the daytime so I didn’t see it in action.  Even though it was switched > off, it did seem a darker than the regular mirror. > I do realize there is the advantage or disadvantage of having the > headlights switch on automatically but can that be overridden?  I would > ask the dealer but they seem to far too little about the product they > sell. > Thanks, > Jim

I have this feature in my 1998 Explorer, and would recommend it.  It is great if you do alot of night driving.  Also had it on the 1995 on I traded in too.  The 1995 mirror had a few more lights and switches on it.

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> Anyone have comments on this option.  I test drove a ‘98 with this during > the daytime so I didn’t see it in action.  Even though it was switched > off, it did seem a darker than the regular mirror. > I do realize there is the advantage or disadvantage of having the > headlights switch on automatically but can that be overridden?  I would > ask the dealer but they seem to far too little about the product they > sell. > Thanks, > Jim

I agree with the other postings, however there is one drawback.  When the mirror actives, it dims everything behing you, not just the headlights of traffic.  This requires that you be more alert so that objects behind you do not become a factor. Joe Scholz

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Question:

>Has anyone found a web page on the internet that has the Shop Manual For the 97 > Explorer?  I was wondering if there was a way I can get it for free off the > web.

I recently got the ALLDATA CD-ROM for my 92 Aerostar.  I have the factory manual for the 87 and much of the data is the same, so I purchased the CD-ROM to supplement/update the info.  While there’s no 100% substitute for the genuine article, the CD-ROM is an attractive alternative containing a decent amount of vehicle specific information as opposed to the Chilton’s or Haynes more general info.  Many drawings from the manual are included on the CD-ROM, though a bit difficult to read at times.  I paid around $29 or so for it and, due to a promotional offer, got the Technical Service Bulletin library at no additional cost.  Not quite free, but awfully close when compared to the factory manuals.  BTW, I initially tried to order the factory manuals, but they were back ordered for at least 45 days.  I got the CD-ROM within 5 days of placing the order.  Info can be found at www.alldata.com. == == == == Jim

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This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > The manual is not available on line.  I got a price quote on a manual > for my 1998 Explorer.  $180 for the printed version and $250 for the > CD > version.  Needless to say I did not buy one.

   WHAT!!! I rather wait for Haynes to publish theirs for $12.95 Winston Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="vcard.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Winston Ojeda Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin:          vcard fn:             Winston Ojeda n:              Ojeda;Winston org:            Data Services adr:            ;;;Milwaukee;Wisconsin;; title:          Quad Graphics x-mozilla-cpt:  ;0 x-mozilla-html: FALSE end:            vcard

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Has anyone found a web page on the internet that has the Shop Manual For the 97  Explorer?  I was wondering if there was a way I can get it for free off the  web. Thanks

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> Has anyone found a web page on the internet that has the Shop Manual For the 97 >  Explorer?  I was wondering if there was a way I can get it for free off the >  web. > Thanks

The manual is not available on line.  I got a price quote on a manual for my 1998 Explorer.  $180 for the printed version and $250 for the CD version.  Needless to say I did not buy one.

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> Has anyone found a web page on the internet that has the Shop Manual For the 97 >  Explorer?  I was wondering if there was a way I can get it for free off the >  web. > Thanks

That would be good if you could, but I doubt it. I paid $160 + $5 postage for mine. It is HUGE – weighs 22 lbs and is in two volumes. I don’t think Helms is going to give it away.

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Question:

Does anyone out there have any ideas as to why the standard double DIN tape player in my 95 Explorer won’t hold the CD adapter tapes that pipe Personal CD player output through the tape head. I’ve tried 2 Maxell and 1 Sony versions and the tape player ‘plays’ for between 10 sec and 2 min then tries to turn the tape then ejects it. I know I should just bite the bullet and buy a decent car stereo but this is pissing me off now. Any ideas/comment appreciated. Thanks   Dutty

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this happens all of the time to almost everybody, so don’t take it personal.  :-) I don’t know for sure, but this is the only thing that I can think of that makes any kind of sense, consistently. Most of the newer tape decks have the auto-reverse feature, which uses some kind of sensor that tells it when to flip the tape over, my guess is either by tension from the cassette tape itself, or lack there of. Since these newer tape decks are way more sensitive to said tension (as not to require so much tension that it snaps the tape), the cassette adapter simply overloads the sensor, and the tape player decides to play the other side of the tape, and thereby piss you off.  ;->   That’s the only thing that i can think of. greg

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>Does anyone out there have any ideas as to why the standard double DIN >tape player in my 95 Explorer won’t hold the CD adapter tapes that pipe >Personal CD player output through the tape head. >I’ve tried 2 Maxell and 1 Sony versions and the tape player ‘plays’ for >between 10 sec and 2 min then tries to turn the tape then ejects it. >I know I should just bite the bullet and buy a decent car stereo but >this is pissing me off now. >Any ideas/comment appreciated. >Thanks   Dutty

Hey Duffy– The tape player is ’smart’…  It looks to see if the tape is over by watching to see if the reels are turning.  Since only one is turning on the adapter,  it  senses the tape is over and tries to reverse it. When that dooesn’t work,  it assum,es the tape has jammed so it ejects.  Smart… very smart! I don’t remember seeing any adapters that have a drive belt between the reels.  Seems like it would be a good idea for anybody with an auto-reverse tape deck. The local Fry’s outlet near here sells an FM stereo transmitter designed for sharing music around the other radios in the house.  This little $15 goodie would be the perfect addition– just plug it in to the CD player, then tune the radio in to the transmitter frequency. Thrill other drivers with your taste in music, etc. dr bob

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i just ordered my first new car; a 1998 Explorer Sport with Auto, Cap. Chairs, a multi disk changer, and CA emissions for $20,100…it seemed like a good price considering dealer invoice, etc.  However, this is my first new car, did i get ripped off?   thanks newbie

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I have the "Premium" system in my 94 XLT.  I have had no problems using a Panasonic CD to tape converter.  Although I had to insert it upside down to get the azimuth correct. Mike

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