Question:

I have a 2000 Explorer 4L V-6 SOHC.  I really do not know much about cars but figure i could handle this one with a little help.  I bought the car from a private party and it sat for 3 months is that helps any. thanks

Response:

Do you hear  pump come on? If you do you might have clogged ports on the hood. You can clean them. If you don’t hear anything, you might have some bad contacts in the switch on the turn lever stalk. Try pushing it in a few times to clear any corrosion it might have. There was a recall for the turn lever/wiper switch being defective. Also check the fuse. One more thing you can do to verify the pump is good is to jump it out with 12v going to it directly.

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Question:

I’m about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months.  I know I need to disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel.  I have some more questions. 1.  Is there an oil additive to help prevent the oil from 100% draining into the oil pan?  The objective is to keep things lubricated. 2.  If I can’t put it up on blocks or jack stands, how much air pressure should I put in the tires?  I like to keep them at 30 – 31 pounds of pressure. Is there anything else I should do?

Response:

If the car is not being totally mothballed (that is to say if it is garaged or covered and you are not leaving town) you are just as far ahead to have it up on blocks and about once a month, start it up and run it to operating temp. After the engine is up to temp, "exercise" everything to distribute lubricants and such. Even better is to just drive it around the block. If you are leaving the area, up on blocks is the better recommendation though three months isn’t what you would call extended storage. Remove the plugs and pour a small amount of oil in each cylinder (maybe 1 or 2 tablespoons) and turn the motor over remembering to hang rags over the holes… reinstall the plugs. Of course, you would have change the motor oil before this step. When you return the motor to service, remove the fuel pump relay and crank the motor until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Your chosen tire pressure should be adequate. Bear in mind where the car is being stored… if there are mice or other vermin, be sure they haven’t taken up residence in the aircleaner or where-ever.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months.  I know I need to > disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel.  I have some more > questions. > 1.  Is there an oil additive to help prevent the oil from 100% draining into > the oil pan?  The objective is to keep things lubricated. > 2.  If I can’t put it up on blocks or jack stands, how much air pressure > should I put in the tires?  I like to keep them at 30 – 31 pounds of pressure. > Is there anything else I should do?

Response:

Battery maintainer?  Better idea – simply disconnect one battery cable. I routinely store my 98 Ford Ranger for 6 months at a time in my gararge in Maine.  Still has the OEM battery.  Among other steps, I disconnect one of the battery cables as part of the routine.  By doing so, I disconnect all the phantom loads, such as the radio preset memory and the engine computer – which are what discharges the battery.  When I return in six months, I simply reconnect that battery, and it starts right up.  I haven’t yet had to boost it. By contrast, a cheap battery maintainer can overcharge the battery – which is not a good thing. Bill Jeffrey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I use a ‘battery maintainer’ to keep the battery peaked.  The battery stays > in the car year-round. > Not sure if you’ll need a ‘battery maintainer’ for 3 months storage, but > you’ll probably need to charge the battery when you go to start the car > after that storage.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >If the car is not being totally mothballed (that is to say if it is garaged >or covered and you are not leaving town) you are just as far ahead to have >it up on blocks and about once a month, start it up and run it to operating >temp. After the engine is up to temp, "exercise" everything to distribute >lubricants and such. Even better is to just drive it around the block. >If you are leaving the area, up on blocks is the better recommendation >though three months isn’t what you would call extended storage. Remove the >plugs and pour a small amount of oil in each cylinder (maybe 1 or 2 >tablespoons) and turn the motor over remembering to hang rags over the >holes… reinstall the plugs. Of course, you would have change the motor oil >before this step. When you return the motor to service, remove the fuel pump >relay and crank the motor until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Your chosen >tire pressure should be adequate. >Bear in mind where the car is being stored… if there are mice or other >vermin, be sure they haven’t taken up residence in the aircleaner or >where-ever. > I’m about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months.  I know I need >to > disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel.  I have some more > questions. > 1.  Is there an oil additive to help prevent the oil from 100% draining >into > the oil pan?  The objective is to keep things lubricated. > 2.  If I can’t put it up on blocks or jack stands, how much air pressure > should I put in the tires?  I like to keep them at 30 – 31 pounds of >pressure. > Is there anything else I should do?

The vehicle could be stored anywhere from 2.5 months to 8 months.  I just don’t know yet how long.  We are definitely leaving town and it will be stored outside. No one will be available to start it.

Response:

> Battery maintainer?  Better idea – simply disconnect one battery cable. > I routinely store my 98 Ford Ranger for 6 months at a time in my gararge > in Maine.  Still has the OEM battery.  Among other steps, I disconnect > one of the battery cables as part of the routine.  By doing so, I > disconnect all the phantom loads, such as the radio preset memory and > the engine computer – which are what discharges the battery.  When I > return in six months, I simply reconnect that battery, and it starts > right up.  I haven’t yet had to boost it. > By contrast, a cheap battery maintainer can overcharge the battery – > which is not a good thing. > Bill Jeffrey

A battery maintainer won’t overcharge a battery. It will only maintain a battery at the state of charge present when hooked up. Hence the name. Since the vehicle will be stored outdoors, unhooking or removing the battery would probably be best. H

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Question:

I have a 2000 Explorer.  I’d like to install a 12 volt power outlet near the far rear, similar to a cigarette lighter outlet.  Is there already a source of 12 volts in that area, not dependent on lights or rear wiper being on?  Any ideas appreciated. — CWLee Former slayer of dragons; practice now limited to sacred cows.  Believing we should hire for quality, not quotas, and promote for performance, not preferences.

Response:

Laptop is at work so I don’t have diagrams handy… if you have trailer package, there should be a "hot in run" at the very least for charging the trailer battery. For a hot at all times, there is probably a relay in the battery junction box that can be removed and a shorting device installed (remember to replace the relay if you pull a trailer with an on board battery).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2000 Explorer.  I’d like to install a 12 volt power > outlet near the far rear, similar to a cigarette lighter > outlet.  Is there already a source of 12 volts in that area, > not dependent on lights or rear wiper being on?  Any ideas > appreciated. > — > CWLee > Former slayer of dragons; practice now limited to sacred > cows.  Believing we should hire for quality, not quotas, and > promote for performance, not preferences.

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Question:

Response:

Check engine light – sets code: lean burn – bank #2 02 sensor — only when <-10 degrees clear code and runs fine. Which sensor needs changed?

Response:

Please post the exact code and any symptoms noted when the concern happens. This is NOT magic and can be a complicated endeavour. Engine size and such might help too… Mechanical failures can and will set the CEL as well. As can cell phones, bad alternators, other electronic devices, radio waves, high voltage interference – ad infinitum. The only thing more complicated than the modern auto is the space shuttle. I doubt that your problem is as simple as changing a sensor.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Check engine light – sets code: > lean burn – bank #2 > 02 sensor > — > only when <-10 degrees > clear code and runs fine. > Which sensor needs changed?

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Question:

A grease needle can be had for a couple of bucks at most part stores.  It fits on to the end of a standard grease gun.  This will allow you to grease your ball joints through the rubber boot.  Worth of shot before shelling out $$ for new parts.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought > something needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease > fittings; replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. > Steers and rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

Response:

Had to replace ball joints in my 99 last year with only 53k on the clock. Looks like I’m not the only one that has run into this.  IIRC, the uppers have to be change with the entire control arm, the lowers do not.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought > something needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease > fittings; replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. > Steers and rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

Response:

For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought something needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease fittings; replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. Steers and rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

Response:

Unfortunately they are correct. for some reason Ford decided to use RSB ball joints and they wear out very fast. I have already changed mine too. Searcher1

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought > something needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease > fittings; replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. > Steers and rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

Response:

Seems like low miles for ball joints (but may differ according to your demographics)….. I probably find more squeaking sway bar bushings than squeaking ball joints. Much cheaper, but not a sure sure, would be to remove the sway bar bushings and clean them in rubbing alcohol…. after they air dry, coat the inner diameter with dielectric grease (the same stuff used on brake caliper slides).  and reinstall. I usually coat the ID of new bushing with this stuff at the time of installation.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought something > needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease fittings; > replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. Steers and > rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

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Question:

Any ideas on why my auto trans won’t downshift to 1st gear when manually placed into 1st gear.  It will limit itself to first gear only when accelerating in 1st gear but it won’t allow engine breaking to decelerate on decents. It seams like it is in neutral when no gas is applied, allow it to coast and even pick speed on a steep decent.  Problem only occurs after the engine has warmed up.  2nd gear functionality works fine including engine breaking. Vehicle is a 4×4 with Auto/Hi/Lo transfer case and a 4.1 LS diff. Thanks,  Jeff

Response:

Straight from the 2000 WSM for the 5R55E transmission…. "If this position is selected at normal road speeds, the transmission will shift into third gear, then into first when the vehicle reaches a speed below approximately 48 km/h (30 mph)." As far as no engine braking… are there any other symptoms or concerns? Has the TCM been scanned for codes (this will require something a bit upscale from a dimestore scan tool)? Is the concern founded in fact or in perception?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any ideas on why my auto trans won’t downshift to 1st gear when manually > placed into 1st gear.  It will limit itself to first gear only when > accelerating in 1st gear but it won’t allow engine breaking to decelerate > on decents. It seams like it is in neutral when no gas is applied, allow > it to coast and even pick speed on a steep decent.  Problem only occurs > after the engine has warmed up.  2nd gear functionality works fine > including engine breaking. Vehicle is a 4×4 with Auto/Hi/Lo transfer case > and a 4.1 LS diff. > Thanks,  Jeff

Response:

Thanks for your response to my question!!  When the trans is manually placed into 1st it never indicates when it does drop into first.  I expect the RPM to rise quickly when it does eventually drop into 1st.  The problem occurs when deceleration or when decending a hill.  The RPM just sits at idle until I give it the gas to start an acceleration. No other symptoms. Again – it works fine when its cold but promptly begins to fail when normal running temperature is reached.

Response:

>Thanks for your response to my question!!  When the trans is manually >placed into 1st it never indicates when it does drop into first.  I expect >the RPM to rise quickly when it does eventually drop into 1st.  The problem >occurs when deceleration or when decending a hill.  The RPM just sits at >idle until I give it the gas to start an acceleration. No other symptoms. >Again – it works fine when its cold but promptly begins to fail when normal >running temperature is reached.

It seems to me that there was a TSB on this or a similar problem a couple years ago.  It was a problem in the valve body and was being fixed under warranty.  There was definitely something posted on it, try a google search in this newsgroup. — Elbridge Gerry, of Massachusetts: "What, sir, is the use of militia?  It is to prevent the establishment of a standing army, the bane of liberty.  . . Whenever Government means to invade the rights and liberties of the people, they always attempt to destroy the militia, in order to raise a standing army upon its ruins."  – Debate, U.S.  House of Representatives, August 17, 1789  

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Question:

I have a 2000 Explorer XLT with 57,000 miles. There is a strong vibration that increases and decreases with speed and resembles a thumping sound under the floorboard. Tires and brakes are okay. Any suggestions appreciated. JW

Response:

I’m no expert, but I’d see if your U joints need replacement. You can do this by twisting your driveshaft and see if there is any play in it. Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 2000 Explorer XLT with 57,000 miles. There is a > strong vibration that increases and decreases with speed > and resembles a thumping sound under the floorboard. > Tires and brakes are okay. > Any suggestions appreciated. > JW

Response:

    Check your universal joint. I just replaced mine last night for a similar, but very slight, vibration.

|I have a 2000 Explorer XLT with 57,000 miles. There is a | strong vibration that increases and decreases with speed | and resembles a thumping sound under the floorboard. | | Tires and brakes are okay. | | Any suggestions appreciated. | | JW

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Question:

I just bought the adapter today, so I hope it isn’t defective. The instructions on the box say something like "if your cassette player has an A/B function, set the controls to play side A". I’m not sure if that is possible. Any idea? Thanks!

Response:

I have the standard radio (with single front-loading CD player) in my 2000 XLT. I’m trying to turn OFF the A/B function on my cassette player, so that the tape does NOT flip over if its at the end. I need to do this because I am using a cassette adapter for my iPod to play through my stereo, and the cassette must be played repeatedly on side A. Does anybody know how to accomplish this? Thanks in advance!

Response:

> I have the standard radio (with single front-loading CD player) in my 2000 > XLT. > I’m trying to turn OFF the A/B function on my cassette player, so that the > tape does NOT flip over if its at the end. > I need to do this because I am using a cassette adapter for my iPod to > play through my stereo, and the cassette must be played repeatedly on side > A. > Does anybody know how to accomplish this?

Yes- does your adapter actually cause the A/B switch to occur? If it does. get a different adapter, as yours is broken, or possibly your cassette player is switching sides prematurely because it needs adjustment, but this is unlikely. The cassette adapters I have seen use an little belt between the pulleys to keep the end-of-tape sensor from kicking in, probably the belt inside the adapter is broken.

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Question:

I just bought a 2000 Explorer that has two Firestone tires which are probably not original. The car has 75k miles and the tires look like they have about 20k miles on them.  I’ve been google searching for a half hour and still cannot find an actual LIST OF THE TIRES RECALLED. If anyone has a DIRECT LINK I would appreciate it. No more wild goose chases. Thanks Joe

Response:

Hmm.. what did you put in the search terms?  Maytag Washer :p just kidding.. I found this on the first pageof Google results http://4wheeldrive.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2… nsumerreports.org%2Fmain%2Fdetail.jsp%3FCONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id%3D21231%26FOLDE R %3C%3Efolder_id%3D21135%26bmUID%3D993086770090 I think all the free tire campaigns have ended though.  But you could still find out if the ones that are on your vehicle were involved..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just bought a 2000 Explorer that has two Firestone tires which are > probably not original. The car has 75k miles and the tires look like > they have about 20k miles on them.  I’ve been google searching for a > half hour and still cannot find an actual LIST OF THE TIRES RECALLED. > If anyone has a DIRECT LINK I would appreciate it. No more wild goose > chases. > Thanks > Joe

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http://www.bridgestoneamericas.com/news/mediacenter/recall_archives/h… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I just bought a 2000 Explorer that has two Firestone tires which are > probably not original. The car has 75k miles and the tires look like > they have about 20k miles on them.  I’ve been google searching for a > half hour and still cannot find an actual LIST OF THE TIRES RECALLED. > If anyone has a DIRECT LINK I would appreciate it. No more wild goose > chases. > Thanks > Joe

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Question:

want to replace battery in 2000 explorer. battery dimensions of new battery (have not yet purchased) are 7 1/2H x 7 1/2W x 12L (inches).  it is size 65 which i believe explorer uses. the battery in the car is the same except the height seems to be a little less that 7 inches.  it is the original battery (Motorcraft) and has a cover on it. my question is will the new battery fit with the height being about 1/2" higher.  i guess the question is will battery cables extend up another 1/2" to connect to new battery. thanks 2000 explorer limited 5.0 v8 47K most power options — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

If you are buying the correct battery for the car, it will fit no problem…. if, however, you are attempting to save a few bucks on one of those "fitz-all" batteries, I can’t begin to guess. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> want to replace battery in 2000 explorer. > battery dimensions of new battery (have not yet purchased) are 7 1/2H x 7 > 1/2W x 12L (inches).  it is size 65 which i believe explorer uses. > the battery in the car is the same except the height seems to be a little > less that 7 inches.  it is the original battery (Motorcraft) and has a cover > on it. > my question is will the new battery fit with the height being about 1/2" > higher.  i guess the question is will battery cables extend up another 1/2" > to connect to new battery. > thanks > 2000 explorer limited > 5.0 v8 > 47K > most power options > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

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