Question:

I’m about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months.  I know I need to disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel.  I have some more questions. 1.  Is there an oil additive to help prevent the oil from 100% draining into the oil pan?  The objective is to keep things lubricated. 2.  If I can’t put it up on blocks or jack stands, how much air pressure should I put in the tires?  I like to keep them at 30 – 31 pounds of pressure. Is there anything else I should do?

Response:

If the car is not being totally mothballed (that is to say if it is garaged or covered and you are not leaving town) you are just as far ahead to have it up on blocks and about once a month, start it up and run it to operating temp. After the engine is up to temp, "exercise" everything to distribute lubricants and such. Even better is to just drive it around the block. If you are leaving the area, up on blocks is the better recommendation though three months isn’t what you would call extended storage. Remove the plugs and pour a small amount of oil in each cylinder (maybe 1 or 2 tablespoons) and turn the motor over remembering to hang rags over the holes… reinstall the plugs. Of course, you would have change the motor oil before this step. When you return the motor to service, remove the fuel pump relay and crank the motor until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Your chosen tire pressure should be adequate. Bear in mind where the car is being stored… if there are mice or other vermin, be sure they haven’t taken up residence in the aircleaner or where-ever.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months.  I know I need to > disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel.  I have some more > questions. > 1.  Is there an oil additive to help prevent the oil from 100% draining into > the oil pan?  The objective is to keep things lubricated. > 2.  If I can’t put it up on blocks or jack stands, how much air pressure > should I put in the tires?  I like to keep them at 30 – 31 pounds of pressure. > Is there anything else I should do?

Response:

Battery maintainer?  Better idea – simply disconnect one battery cable. I routinely store my 98 Ford Ranger for 6 months at a time in my gararge in Maine.  Still has the OEM battery.  Among other steps, I disconnect one of the battery cables as part of the routine.  By doing so, I disconnect all the phantom loads, such as the radio preset memory and the engine computer – which are what discharges the battery.  When I return in six months, I simply reconnect that battery, and it starts right up.  I haven’t yet had to boost it. By contrast, a cheap battery maintainer can overcharge the battery – which is not a good thing. Bill Jeffrey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I use a ‘battery maintainer’ to keep the battery peaked.  The battery stays > in the car year-round. > Not sure if you’ll need a ‘battery maintainer’ for 3 months storage, but > you’ll probably need to charge the battery when you go to start the car > after that storage.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >If the car is not being totally mothballed (that is to say if it is garaged >or covered and you are not leaving town) you are just as far ahead to have >it up on blocks and about once a month, start it up and run it to operating >temp. After the engine is up to temp, "exercise" everything to distribute >lubricants and such. Even better is to just drive it around the block. >If you are leaving the area, up on blocks is the better recommendation >though three months isn’t what you would call extended storage. Remove the >plugs and pour a small amount of oil in each cylinder (maybe 1 or 2 >tablespoons) and turn the motor over remembering to hang rags over the >holes… reinstall the plugs. Of course, you would have change the motor oil >before this step. When you return the motor to service, remove the fuel pump >relay and crank the motor until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Your chosen >tire pressure should be adequate. >Bear in mind where the car is being stored… if there are mice or other >vermin, be sure they haven’t taken up residence in the aircleaner or >where-ever. > I’m about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months.  I know I need >to > disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel.  I have some more > questions. > 1.  Is there an oil additive to help prevent the oil from 100% draining >into > the oil pan?  The objective is to keep things lubricated. > 2.  If I can’t put it up on blocks or jack stands, how much air pressure > should I put in the tires?  I like to keep them at 30 – 31 pounds of >pressure. > Is there anything else I should do?

The vehicle could be stored anywhere from 2.5 months to 8 months.  I just don’t know yet how long.  We are definitely leaving town and it will be stored outside. No one will be available to start it.

Response:

> Battery maintainer?  Better idea – simply disconnect one battery cable. > I routinely store my 98 Ford Ranger for 6 months at a time in my gararge > in Maine.  Still has the OEM battery.  Among other steps, I disconnect > one of the battery cables as part of the routine.  By doing so, I > disconnect all the phantom loads, such as the radio preset memory and > the engine computer – which are what discharges the battery.  When I > return in six months, I simply reconnect that battery, and it starts > right up.  I haven’t yet had to boost it. > By contrast, a cheap battery maintainer can overcharge the battery – > which is not a good thing. > Bill Jeffrey

A battery maintainer won’t overcharge a battery. It will only maintain a battery at the state of charge present when hooked up. Hence the name. Since the vehicle will be stored outdoors, unhooking or removing the battery would probably be best. H

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