Question:

2000 Explorer XLT 5.0. Bought used with 28,000 miles in August, 2003.  Now has 31,000 and left rear rotor started grinding and is very scored.  What is your average mileage to replace rear pads? I have a feeling that I’m in for a fight with the warranty company. Thanks for all replies.

Response:

I got 85,000 miles on my ‘99, then replaced front and rear.  They were still not completely worn out. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >2000 Explorer XLT 5.0. >Bought used with 28,000 miles in August, 2003.  Now has 31,000 and >left rear rotor started grinding and is very scored.  What is your >average mileage to replace rear pads? >I have a feeling that I’m in for a fight with the warranty company. >Thanks for all replies.

Response:

Mileage varies with breaks, especially with the poor caliper pin/slide design on the Explorer.  Personally, I would recommend that the caliper pins/slides be cleaned and lubricated every year or so, depending on the climate in your area.  31,000 miles on the rear is not that bad considering this.  My ‘98 fronts needed replacing at around 25,000 and the rears at around 35,000 here in Wisconsin.  Unfortunately, breaks are not covered under warranty ( Steven – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 2000 Explorer XLT 5.0. > Bought used with 28,000 miles in August, 2003.  Now has 31,000 and > left rear rotor started grinding and is very scored.  What is your > average mileage to replace rear pads? > I have a feeling that I’m in for a fight with the warranty company. > Thanks for all replies.

Response:

It could be from your parking brake drum that is built in the rotor. If you don’t use it for a long period of time then use it, it sometimes doesn’t release all the way. Mine did this and chewed up the left rear drum part of the rotor. I didn’t know there was a problem until the ABS sensor went out on that wheel. My Ford ESP covered it. There is also a TSB about the parking brake release issue. >Now has 31,000 and left rear rotor started grinding and is very

scored.

Response:

I just did the rear brakes on my 98 XLT at 106k. Clarke

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2000 Explorer XLT 5.0. > Bought used with 28,000 miles in August, 2003.  Now has 31,000 and > left rear rotor started grinding and is very scored.  What is your > average mileage to replace rear pads? > I have a feeling that I’m in for a fight with the warranty company. > Thanks for all replies.

Response:

It is important to recognize that not everyones driving experience or conditions is in alignment with anyone elses….. Nothing on the face of this planet will be better than periodic visual inspection. That there are so many of us with time to spend in front of the monitor should be an indication that time is, indeed, cheap…. unles the clock is ‘running’….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just did the rear brakes on my 98 XLT at 106k. > Clarke > 2000 Explorer XLT 5.0. > Bought used with 28,000 miles in August, 2003.  Now has 31,000 and > left rear rotor started grinding and is very scored.  What is your > average mileage to replace rear pads? > I have a feeling that I’m in for a fight with the warranty company. > Thanks for all replies.

Response:

I have a 98 4.0 XLT with 60K. Just had it serviced and the guy at the service station said that the rear brakes are at about 50%. I bought it used with 40K but I’m pretty sure the brakes were never replaced. Both front and rear. The front ones are at 30% thread left.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just did the rear brakes on my 98 XLT at 106k. > Clarke > 2000 Explorer XLT 5.0. > Bought used with 28,000 miles in August, 2003.  Now has 31,000 and > left rear rotor started grinding and is very scored.  What is your > average mileage to replace rear pads? > I have a feeling that I’m in for a fight with the warranty company. > Thanks for all replies.

Response:

They determined that the LR Caliper was sticking and replaced it, the LR Rotor and both L & R pads and turned the RR Rotor.. I argued for them to replace both rotors, but they didn’t feel it was necessary. Thanks to all who posted to the original message. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 98 4.0 XLT with 60K. Just had it serviced and the guy at the >service station said that the rear brakes are at about 50%. I bought it used >with 40K but I’m pretty sure the brakes were never replaced. Both front and >rear. The front ones are at 30% thread left. > I just did the rear brakes on my 98 XLT at 106k. > Clarke > > 2000 Explorer XLT 5.0. > > Bought used with 28,000 miles in August, 2003.  Now has 31,000 and > > left rear rotor started grinding and is very scored.  What is your > > average mileage to replace rear pads? > > I have a feeling that I’m in for a fight with the warranty company. > > Thanks for all replies.

Response:

Question:

The stock radio/CD player on my 2000 Explorer XLT functions fine.  Except the display suddenly went blank.  All lights in the instrument cluster are operating, and all other lights on the radio are working.  The display (clock, volume, frequency) on the radio simply went blank.  It comes on sometimes, but only for maybe ten seconds.  It doesn’t flicker on and off. It just fades off.  Is this an electronic component problem that a replacement part will resolve, or is it an IC problem that means forget it? -Eric

Response:

http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The stock radio/CD player on my 2000 Explorer XLT functions fine.  Except > the display suddenly went blank.  All lights in the instrument cluster are > operating, and all other lights on the radio are working.  The display > (clock, volume, frequency) on the radio simply went blank.  It comes on > sometimes, but only for maybe ten seconds.  It doesn’t flicker on and off. > It just fades off.  Is this an electronic component problem that a > replacement part will resolve, or is it an IC problem that means forget > it? -Eric

Response:

I have the same problem on my 1998 XLT. Occasionaly the display works and at other times it is blank. Unfortunately I haven’t got an answer to the problem as yet.

Response:

That was the same problem I was having.  I read various postings about the problem and ended up going to www.shareamemory.com/radio.  He does charge $19.99, but it was well worth the time I saved in trying to troubleshoot the problem and he offers a swap program which doesn’t require you to go without your radio…most enjoyable.

I have the same problem on my 1998 XLT. Occasionaly the display works and at other times it is blank. Unfortunately I haven’t got an answer to the problem as yet.

Response:

Question:

Hi 2000 Explorer 4.0. At startup engine acts like computer lost program then idles high then normal. some times like whenever its not at the shop it idles at about 200 rpm or so then stalls eventually returns to normal.No check engine light ever. Thanks Greg

Response:

thought that this had been corrected in production but possibly not. Does the problem only occur when the motor is cold or can it happen also on a hot restart? Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi 2000 Explorer 4.0. At startup engine acts like computer lost program > then idles high then normal. some times like whenever its not at the shop > it idles at about 200 rpm or so then stalls eventually returns to > normal.No check engine light ever. Thanks Greg

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >thought that this had been corrected in production but possibly not. Does >the problem only occur when the motor is cold or can it happen also on a hot >restart? >Jim Warman > Hi 2000 Explorer 4.0. At startup engine acts like computer lost program > then idles high then normal. some times like whenever its not at the shop > it idles at about 200 rpm or so then stalls eventually returns to > normal.No check engine light ever. Thanks Greg

When its cold

Response:

I’d have it scanned for any pertinent CMDTCs to start with. Two common possibilities  are the IAC and the lower intak manifold seals…. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > When its cold

Response:

Question:

Hello All,   When I turned my left turn signal on today, in my 98 Explorer with 50K miles, the green arrow did not blink, (was on steady)  and smoke started coming out of the area the emergency flasher button is located. I turned the signal off and stopped the vehicle.  I checked all the lights and they still work and the signal has gone back to normal.  No more smoke!   Any idea what happened?  Should I pay to have it checked since it is working ok now? George Evans Newport News, VA

Response:

George.. that smoke has left your steering column is an indication that something was in better shape than it is now. Without knowing what has been affected, it’s just a crap shoot – the next time the smoke comes, you just might wind up looking for something new to drive…… or worse. At the very least, waiting for the fire department to come would rate as a real inconvenience in my daily schedule. Good suggestion would be to get it checked ASAP…. best suggestion would be to disconnect the battery and have it checked before driving. In the last month or so, I had a customer from my previous employ call me about his daughters 2000 Chev K1500…. every time it rained and she drove through a puddle, the starter would engage and self destruct. Six starters later, they decide to investigate…. I think I found the orignal spot where the wires chaffed through. I finally pry the story out of him…… there was an intermittent minor electrical problem and they felt is was of minor consequence. By pushing the envelope, they now have spent over $1000 on rebuilt starters and are looking at a $1500 wiring harness (rough guess, another 6 hours or so to install the harness). Good luck, whatever your decision… — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello All, >   When I turned my left turn signal on today, in my 98 Explorer with 50K > miles, the green arrow did not blink, (was on steady)  and smoke started > coming out of the area the emergency flasher button is located. I turned the > signal off and stopped the vehicle.  I checked all the lights and they still > work and the signal has gone back to normal.  No more smoke! >   Any idea what happened?  Should I pay to have it checked since it is > working ok now? > George Evans > Newport News, VA

Response:

My 2000 Explorer did that about 2 months ago. While stepping on the brake and putting the left blinker on it would ’stick’ and smoke would come out around the 4-way flasher button, even when I turned the blinker off. The only way I could stop it was to take my foot off of the brake. I took it to the dealership for some other work and got them to check it out. They took the multi-function switch apart and said that they could smell the burnt smell, but nothing looked burned. They replaced the switch anyway. I think it was $20 or $30 (CDN). >Hello All, >  When I turned my left turn signal on today, in my 98 Explorer with 50K >miles, the green arrow did not blink, (was on steady)  and smoke started >coming out of the area the emergency flasher button is located. I turned the >signal off and stopped the vehicle.  I checked all the lights and they still >work and the signal has gone back to normal.  No more smoke! >  Any idea what happened?  Should I pay to have it checked since it is >working ok now? >George Evans >Newport News, VA

– Change netscape.net to ns.sympatico.ca to reply.

Response:

>Hello All, >  When I turned my left turn signal on today, in my 98 Explorer with 50K >miles, the green arrow did not blink, (was on steady)  and smoke started >coming out of the area the emergency flasher button is located. I turned the >signal off and stopped the vehicle.  I checked all the lights and they still >work and the signal has gone back to normal.  No more smoke! >  Any idea what happened?  Should I pay to have it checked since it is >working ok now? >George Evans >Newport News, VA

I’m tempted to say that, since some smoke escaped, the electrical system is now running at reduced pressure, and won’t light the lights to full brightness anymore, but I’m afraid that might be taken as an attack… However, the smoke is definitely a sign that something went wrong. You obviously have a wiring problem. These things *never* heal themselves, and have a nasty habit of recurring at the wrong time. Wiring problems, especially those that don’t happen all the time, or even at predictable times, can be costly/time consuming to find. But not fixing them can be even more costly (think stranded, at night, without any means of communication). Pewrsonally, I’d have it looked at, and fixed.

Response:

This is just the reason why I have a fire extinguisher bolted within easy reach on every vehicle I have owned for the last 20 years. I had a rear wheel bearing catch fire on a Corvette years ago and the fire extinguisher put out the grease fire before the fiberglass caught fire. I was three miles from a phone so the car would have been a total loss. The really funny thing was I bought the Extinguisher two day earlier.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->But not fixing them can be even more costly (think stranded, at night, >without any means of communication). >Pewrsonally, I’d have it looked at, and fixed. > A friend of mine had this happen on his 2000.  The ford dealer looked at it and > could find nothing!  So now he just has to wait for something to burn up.

Response:

>But not fixing them can be even more costly (think stranded, at night, >without any means of communication). >Pewrsonally, I’d have it looked at, and fixed.

A friend of mine had this happen on his 2000.  The ford dealer looked at it and could find nothing!  So now he just has to wait for something to burn up.

Response:

Question:

Needs to be in neutral, not park…… the module looks for three conditions to engage or disengage 4X4LOW…. neutral, brake applied and "0"mph. In park, there ‘may’ be force applied to the thrust faces of the shift drims and sliders and/or, the vehicle might ‘run away’ as it passes through neutral in the transfer case…. ergo, there will be no attempt at this particular shift by the module. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It is in the manual.  In out ‘96 we need to put it in park, put your foot on > the brake, and turn the switch to 2 wheel. > —

Response:

I am driving my husband’s 2000 Explorer today.  I pulled out of a parking spot and it went into 4WD low and I can’t seem to figure out how to get it out.  I realized the knob was on 4WD low and should have been on Auto–I think my daughter may have been playing with it. Someone suggested to turn it back to auto and that I need to back up 50 feet or more to get it out of 4WD.  I have already dropped it at the garage because I got nervous and I know you are not supposed to drive it around in gear like that.  Any other suggestions?

Response:

It is in the manual.  In out ‘96 we need to put it in park, put your foot on the brake, and turn the switch to 2 wheel. — -Jim

Question:

Seems to me that you should install new once you’ve gone to all the aggravation to remove them.  I always use anti-sieze just for insurance.  I also use dielectric grease on the boots. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->2000 Explorer Limited now has about 42000 miles.  The spark plugs should >last 100000, according to maintenance schedule. >I have seen sites that recommend removing plugs, then reinstalling,  well >before 100000 miles to prevent a difficult removal when the mileage gets to >100000. >Is this really necessary?  Is it advisable to use anti-seize when installing >the spark plugs? >2000 Limited 4X2, 42000 miles >5.0 V8 >most power options >Thanks

Response:

2000 Explorer Limited now has about 42000 miles.  The spark plugs should last 100000, according to maintenance schedule. I have seen sites that recommend removing plugs, then reinstalling,  well before 100000 miles to prevent a difficult removal when the mileage gets to 100000. Is this really necessary?  Is it advisable to use anti-seize when installing the spark plugs? 2000 Limited 4X2, 42000 miles 5.0 V8 most power options Thanks

Response:

You should remove and re-gap, then re-install.  (IF they’re in good condition) I just replaced mine at 60k (plug miles, not vehicle miles), A/C Delco plugs.  They were in good condition, no evidence of damage, burning oil, running too rich/lean, the gap was about double spec, but I replace them anyway since I have them out.   Replaced ‘em with Bosch Platinum, just to see how they perform… You really don’t need anti sieze if you put them in snugly with your ratchet and not over tighten. r/ -IanCT

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2000 Explorer Limited now has about 42000 miles.  The spark plugs should > last 100000, according to maintenance schedule. > I have seen sites that recommend removing plugs, then reinstalling,  well > before 100000 miles to prevent a difficult removal when the mileage gets to > 100000. > Is this really necessary?  Is it advisable to use anti-seize when installing > the spark plugs? > 2000 Limited 4X2, 42000 miles > 5.0 V8 > most power options > Thanks

Response:

>Hello again, >I have a 2001 Accord 4cyl, the owners manual recommends changing spark plugs >after 105k miles.  This seems like a long time to me.  Wondering what others >are doing? >I know I am not going to wait that long seeing I do everything else sooner >then recommended, just wondering what others have done. >thx, >matt

As I have stated before, we have a 1998 Isuzu Trooper (mix of more highway than town driving) and when I pulled the NGK platinum plugs at 85,000 miles, they looked to be in excellent condition.  The recommended interval was 100,000 miles from the factory.  As soon as I borrow my friend’s digital camera, I will take a snap of them and post it. So, with a recommended 105,000 mile interval, that means you have platinum plugs.  You can change them earlier if you desire; it won’t hurt a thing, but I am not sure you are going to gain anything by doing it. – — Curtis Newton http://surf.to/cnewton <delete remove-me. to respond to email> ICQ: 4899169

Response:

> Hello again, > I have a 2001 Accord 4cyl, the owners manual recommends changing spark plugs > after 105k miles.  This seems like a long time to me.  Wondering what others > are doing? > I know I am not going to wait that long seeing I do everything else sooner > then recommended, just wondering what others have done. > thx, > matt

Personally, i’d change them at about 60k miles. They probably don’t need it, but I’d be afraid they would be corroded to the head if I waited any longer. — To Email me, change snot to hot

Response:

Your car must have platinum tipped plugs, which last much longer than conventional plugs. What’s the point changing them sooner than the recommended interval? On my 99 Accord the recommended replacement interval is 30K, and that is when I change them. There is a small improvement in smoothness with the new plugs, but that is all. The engine starts just as effortlessly, and there’s no change in gas mileage.  So save your money (platinum plugs are expensive.)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello again, > I have a 2001 Accord 4cyl, the owners manual recommends changing spark plugs > after 105k miles.  This seems like a long time to me.  Wondering what others > are doing? > I know I am not going to wait that long seeing I do everything else sooner > then recommended, just wondering what others have done. > thx, > matt

Response:

Hello again, I have a 2001 Accord 4cyl, the owners manual recommends changing spark plugs after 105k miles.  This seems like a long time to me.  Wondering what others are doing? I know I am not going to wait that long seeing I do everything else sooner then recommended, just wondering what others have done. thx, matt

Response:

>Hello again, >I have a 2001 Accord 4cyl, the owners manual recommends changing spark plugs >after 105k miles.  This seems like a long time to me.  Wondering what others >are doing? >I know I am not going to wait that long seeing I do everything else sooner >then recommended, just wondering what others have done. >thx, >matt

As I have stated before, we have a 1998 Isuzu Trooper (mix of more highway than town driving) and when I pulled the NGK platinum plugs at 85,000 miles, they looked to be in excellent condition.  The recommended interval was 100,000 miles from the factory.  As soon as I borrow my friend’s digital camera, I will take a snap of them and post it. So, with a recommended 105,000 mile interval, that means you have platinum plugs.  You can change them earlier if you desire; it won’t hurt a thing, but I am not sure you are going to gain anything by doing it. – — Curtis Newton http://surf.to/cnewton <delete remove-me. to respond to email> ICQ: 4899169

Response:

> Hello again, > I have a 2001 Accord 4cyl, the owners manual recommends changing spark plugs > after 105k miles.  This seems like a long time to me.  Wondering what others > are doing? > I know I am not going to wait that long seeing I do everything else sooner > then recommended, just wondering what others have done. > thx, > matt

Personally, i’d change them at about 60k miles. They probably don’t need it, but I’d be afraid they would be corroded to the head if I waited any longer. — To Email me, change snot to hot

Response:

Your car must have platinum tipped plugs, which last much longer than conventional plugs. What’s the point changing them sooner than the recommended interval? On my 99 Accord the recommended replacement interval is 30K, and that is when I change them. There is a small improvement in smoothness with the new plugs, but that is all. The engine starts just as effortlessly, and there’s no change in gas mileage.  So save your money (platinum plugs are expensive.)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello again, > I have a 2001 Accord 4cyl, the owners manual recommends changing spark plugs > after 105k miles.  This seems like a long time to me.  Wondering what others > are doing? > I know I am not going to wait that long seeing I do everything else sooner > then recommended, just wondering what others have done. > thx, > matt

Response:

Hello again, I have a 2001 Accord 4cyl, the owners manual recommends changing spark plugs after 105k miles.  This seems like a long time to me.  Wondering what others are doing? I know I am not going to wait that long seeing I do everything else sooner then recommended, just wondering what others have done. thx, matt

Response:

Question:

what is the size of a 2000 XLT V8 gas tank?

Response:

20 gal – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->what is the size of a 2000 XLT V8 gas tank?

Response:

Question:

I also had this problem, and the dealer replaced the leaky water pump and thermostat.  Fixed.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have just noticed that when I go to turn on my A/C the compressor > does not come on. Has anyone ran into this with their Explroers? > (2000, Explorer Sport). > Thanks!

Response:

My 2000 Sport had the AC compressor replaced last season.  under warranty. If I remember correctly the seals went out. Good Luck. Scott

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have just noticed that when I go to turn on my A/C the compressor > does not come on. Has anyone ran into this with their Explroers? > (2000, Explorer Sport). > Thanks!

Response:

Several possible reasons.. Most likely low freon level.  You can test by turning in the a/c, and jumper over the low pressure cut off switch.  If it doesn’t work, then maybe a fuse or switch issue.  If the compressor runs, you’ve got a leak.. check the output of the condenser as that line is usually oily where the "O"-rings fail first. my $.02 rk

> I have just noticed that when I go to turn on my A/C the compressor > does not come on. Has anyone ran into this with their Explroers? > (2000, Explorer Sport). > Thanks!

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

I have just noticed that when I go to turn on my A/C the compressor does not come on. Has anyone ran into this with their Explroers? (2000, Explorer Sport). Thanks!

Response:

Question:

You may want to look at: www.shareamemory.com/radio If your radio is has the display going out but everything else is working, this may help you out. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The CD in my 2000 Explorer Sport is working only intermittently so I’m > thinking of replacing it with an aftermarket unit.  If I do that, will I > continue to have support for the rear seat audio controls?  Any brand or > model recommendations for direct replacement? The OEM radio is the base > AM/FM single CD.  Would another alternative be to add a changer and just not > use the in-dash loader?  Thanks for any advice or recommendations. > Regards, > Steve Read

Response:

Your rear seat controls will not work if you install an aftermarket radio. I would suggest looking on ebay for an identical used radio, assuming your radio is not under warranty. Jeff

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The CD in my 2000 Explorer Sport is working only intermittently so I’m > thinking of replacing it with an aftermarket unit.  If I do that, will I > continue to have support for the rear seat audio controls?  Any brand or > model recommendations for direct replacement? The OEM radio is the base > AM/FM single CD.  Would another alternative be to add a changer and just not > use the in-dash loader?  Thanks for any advice or recommendations. > Regards, > Steve Read

Response:

The CD in my 2000 Explorer Sport is working only intermittently so I’m thinking of replacing it with an aftermarket unit.  If I do that, will I continue to have support for the rear seat audio controls?  Any brand or model recommendations for direct replacement? The OEM radio is the base AM/FM single CD.  Would another alternative be to add a changer and just not use the in-dash loader?  Thanks for any advice or recommendations. Regards, Steve Read

Response:

I’m not sure what you have for a CD player but are you get the "CD HOT" message? Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The CD in my 2000 Explorer Sport is working only intermittently so I’m > thinking of replacing it with an aftermarket unit.  If I do that, will I > continue to have support for the rear seat audio controls?  Any brand or > model recommendations for direct replacement? The OEM radio is the base > AM/FM single CD.  Would another alternative be to add a changer and just not > use the in-dash loader?  Thanks for any advice or recommendations. > Regards, > Steve Read

Response:

Question:

the airbag light on my 2000 Limited continued to blink when I first started the engine.  When I turned the engine off and restarted, the light functioned properly (came on, then went off). dealer says this is probably not a problem.  owners manual says if this light ever blinks, even intermittently, it should be checked out. the car does have side air bags, and about 36500 miles.  It was purchased new and never in any kind of accident. has anyone experienced this problem?

Response:

I assumed it blink it a particular pattern? The airbag system has its own DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) for example a DTC 32 is: "blink-blink-blink (two second pause) blink-blink" there is a five second pause then it repeats – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->the airbag light on my 2000 Limited continued to blink when I first started >the engine.  When I turned the engine off and restarted, the light >functioned properly (came on, then went off). >dealer says this is probably not a problem.  owners manual says if this >light ever blinks, even intermittently, it should be checked out. >the car does have side air bags, and about 36500 miles.  It was purchased >new and never in any kind of accident. >has anyone experienced this problem?

Response:

I wish I had paid more attention to the pattern, but at the time was in a hurry. My recollection was a steady blink-blink-blink…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I assumed it blink it a particular pattern? The airbag system has its > own DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) for example a DTC 32 is: > "blink-blink-blink (two second pause) blink-blink" > there is a five second pause then it repeats >the airbag light on my 2000 Limited continued to blink when I first started >the engine.  When I turned the engine off and restarted, the light >functioned properly (came on, then went off). >dealer says this is probably not a problem.  owners manual says if this >light ever blinks, even intermittently, it should be checked out. >the car does have side air bags, and about 36500 miles.  It was purchased >new and never in any kind of accident. >has anyone experienced this problem?

Response:

There is a connector below the seat on the driver side…I moved that about a bit (disconnected and reconnected….it has a special locking tab that requires lifting with a screwdriver blade) and that get rid of the blinking light on my 2000 Explorer with side impact air bags.  See the Faults section of: www.shareamemory.com/radio Regards – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > the airbag light on my 2000 Limited continued to blink when I first started > the engine.  When I turned the engine off and restarted, the light > functioned properly (came on, then went off). > dealer says this is probably not a problem.  owners manual says if this > light ever blinks, even intermittently, it should be checked out. > the car does have side air bags, and about 36500 miles.  It was purchased > new and never in any kind of accident. > has anyone experienced this problem?

Response: