Question:

  Thanks!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your son has the VIN X. > The VIN letters are as follows: > X = 4.0L, EFI, OHV, six cylinder (Pushrod V6) > E = 4.0L, EFI, SOHC, six cylinder > P = 5.0L, EFI, eight cylinder > K = 4.0L, EFI, SOHC, six cylinder, flex fuel

Response:

Hello-  I need to pick up a thermostat for my son’s 2000 Explorer, and it seems that I need to know whether it’s a "VIN E" or VIN X".  (I don’t have his VIN handy)   It’s a 4.0 V6, and I’d guess that one is the "standard" engine, and the other is the SOHC?  His is the regular pushrod V6; can anyone tell me whether it’s VIN X or E? Thanks! Steve.

Response:

Your son has the VIN X. The VIN letters are as follows:         X = 4.0L, EFI, OHV, six cylinder (Pushrod V6)         E = 4.0L, EFI, SOHC, six cylinder         P = 5.0L, EFI, eight cylinder         K = 4.0L, EFI, SOHC, six cylinder, flex fuel -Sadfly – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hello- > I need to pick up a thermostat for my son’s 2000 Explorer, and it seems >that I need to know whether it’s a "VIN E" or VIN X".  (I don’t have his VIN >handy) >  It’s a 4.0 V6, and I’d guess that one is the "standard" engine, and the >other is the SOHC? > His is the regular pushrod V6; can anyone tell me whether it’s VIN X or E? >Thanks! >Steve.

Response:

Question:

I opted for a stainless steel Manik brush guard (almost everyone else buys the less expensive black) and a clear Lund bug deflector.  Really adds a lot to the look of the Silver vehicle.  I added contrasting Okole neoprene seat covers (front and back).  I’ve recently added a Thule canoe rack system, and this has been a big negative to the yuppie look I was going for.  So it might be going on and off as needed.  Otherwise, a nice new lighting system would look nice too. The interior lighting of the ;02 XLT is really pathetic, so I have to investigate a 12 volt lighting system; perhaps for boats, I don’t know. Rick Bryan New York, NY – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> add to give it a little more flavor?  I’m thinking about a bug guard for the > hood, but I want one that follows the contours of the hood — not something > I can find at Pep Boys. >Just a note… I got a Bug Reflector-II from Pep Boys for my ‘02 XLS… and it >follows the contours of the hood perfectly, since it was designed for the ‘02 >Explorer and ‘02 Mountaineer.  Check to see if they have those for your 2000 >Explorer and it should do the same. > Also, are those rain guards for the windows worth > looking into?  I might pick up a set of those if they actually added some > function too. >Yea they are quite handy…  however now I want to remove them (maybe just to >buy another brand).  The ones I bought used "strong and durable" 3M adhesive… >they should add "temporarily" to the end of that statement.  It is already >separating from two of my doors on the smooth plastic trim by the doorjamb; but >yet they won’t part from the actual paint on the door.  It irritates me, and I >kinda wish I never bothered with them to begin with. > Another thing I want to change — the center console.  I think that bag > thing is ridiculous.  I’d love to get the console like the new Taurus’ have > in them, the ones that open up into cup holders and what I see as a french > fry holder . >I really wish I could see a picture of this…. my ‘02 XLS I bought brand new >last year is my first new vehicle and MY first vehicle, period.  The center >console on it is pretty nice in my opinion (although just having bucket seats is >an improvement, a nice one, over my last vehicle I was driving which had a >single bench seat).  But, I am sure there are specialty auto stores that sell >custom fit replacement center consoles.  I’m in Oklahoma, and there’s an auto >store (that’s not a chain store, as it’s named after the owner), called Padhams >Truck Accessories, and they sell these new, nice center consoles.  This store >also sales car alarms, your "deer blockers" , truck bed liners, hitch / >towing accessories, floor mats, etc.  Just look around for this type of store >and give them a check.

Response:

I just bought an ‘00 XLS, and while I actually like the styling better than the XLT it is still kinda plain looking in the front.  What things should I add to give it a little more flavor?  I’m thinking about a bug guard for the hood, but I want one that follows the contours of the hood — not something I can find at Pep Boys.  I also looked at a couple steel grill guards, they look good but it is hard to justify $500 for just that (and maybe protection from the 10,000 deer around here that love to play in the road).  Anyone got any other suggestions?  Also, are those rain guards for the windows worth looking into?  I might pick up a set of those if they actually added some function too. Another thing I want to change — the center console.  I think that bag thing is ridiculous.  I’d love to get the console like the new Taurus’ have in them, the ones that open up into cup holders and what I see as a french fry holder . Thanks for any info! Butt (not my real name, but certainly my given one)

Response:

> add to give it a little more flavor?  I’m thinking about a bug guard for the > hood, but I want one that follows the contours of the hood — not something > I can find at Pep Boys.

Just a note… I got a Bug Reflector-II from Pep Boys for my ‘02 XLS… and it follows the contours of the hood perfectly, since it was designed for the ‘02 Explorer and ‘02 Mountaineer.  Check to see if they have those for your 2000 Explorer and it should do the same. > Also, are those rain guards for the windows worth > looking into?  I might pick up a set of those if they actually added some > function too.

Yea they are quite handy…  however now I want to remove them (maybe just to buy another brand).  The ones I bought used "strong and durable" 3M adhesive… they should add "temporarily" to the end of that statement.  It is already separating from two of my doors on the smooth plastic trim by the doorjamb; but yet they won’t part from the actual paint on the door.  It irritates me, and I kinda wish I never bothered with them to begin with. > Another thing I want to change — the center console.  I think that bag > thing is ridiculous.  I’d love to get the console like the new Taurus’ have > in them, the ones that open up into cup holders and what I see as a french > fry holder .

I really wish I could see a picture of this…. my ‘02 XLS I bought brand new last year is my first new vehicle and MY first vehicle, period.  The center console on it is pretty nice in my opinion (although just having bucket seats is an improvement, a nice one, over my last vehicle I was driving which had a single bench seat).  But, I am sure there are specialty auto stores that sell custom fit replacement center consoles.  I’m in Oklahoma, and there’s an auto store (that’s not a chain store, as it’s named after the owner), called Padhams Truck Accessories, and they sell these new, nice center consoles.  This store also sales car alarms, your "deer blockers" , truck bed liners, hitch / towing accessories, floor mats, etc.  Just look around for this type of store and give them a check.

Response:

Question:

I bought a used explorer and with no code written for door panel.The manual says it is on the computer module. Any ideas about location????TIA

Response:

on my ‘99,it’s under the hood mounted in the fire wall,near the passenger side. you can see the harness going to it. not sure about the ‘02 though ? — William S. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I bought a used explorer and with no code written for door panel.The > manual says it is on the computer module. Any ideas about > location????TIA

Response:

for the 2000 EXPlorer its on the back drivers side. Kind of where the jack is but deeper in.. Its kind of hard to get to though so when i needed to get mine i pulled the plastic back & just barly read it. Hope this helps – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I bought a used explorer and with no code written for door panel.The > manual says it is on the computer module. Any ideas about > location????TIA

Response:

Question:

I just purchased a 2000 Explorer XLS from a local dealer in Oklahoma – it had only 9500 miles on it! Can you believe that? So now I’m in the circle and loving it.. Please look forward to all my questions! Where can I order that "bag" that goes in the center console? NW

Response:

Welcome to the owners club Check out http://www.explorer4×4.com/ and check the message board Well done Howard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just purchased a 2000 Explorer XLS from a local dealer in Oklahoma – it > had only 9500 miles on it! Can you believe that? So now I’m in the circle > and loving it.. > Please look forward to all my questions! > Where can I order that "bag" that goes in the center console? > NW

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Question:

I had a simular problem.   If memory serves me correct, you have to modifiy the adapter to get it to work right.  The deck senses that the tape spools are spitting tape into itself (wrongly as there is no tape inside an adaptor).  You have to put some tape, or something to slow down one of the spools, then it works fine. hope this helps. Matt

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2000? Explorer with a tape deck and I’m trying to find an adapter > to connect my CD/MP3 player.  The adapter I have works fine in my car, but > in the truck it just keeps flipping sides and then finally gets spat back > out. > I have heard that older adapters work better, but that doesn’t really help > me.  Does anyone know of a market adapter brand/model that works?  I am > getting tired of listening to Abba Gold and Gordon Lightfoot over and over > and over and… =-) > Thanks in advance! > Dave

Response:

>I have a 2000? Explorer with a tape deck and I’m trying to find an adapter >to connect my CD/MP3 player.  The adapter I have works fine in my car, but >in the truck it just keeps flipping sides and then finally gets spat back >out. >I have heard that older adapters work better, but that doesn’t really help >me.  Does anyone know of a market adapter brand/model that works?  I am >getting tired of listening to Abba Gold and Gordon Lightfoot over and over >and over and… =-) >Thanks in advance! >Dave

Before we put a new head and changer in our ‘92 Sport, I went to Radio Shack and bought their adapter. It worked for several years. You don’t say what brand adapter you have now.

Response:

I had the same problem with my 97 Explorer.  I decided to just get a new one from Radio Shack and it works great!  I’ve got a 5 year old Panasonic portable CD player. hope this helps!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2000? Explorer with a tape deck and I’m trying to find an adapter > to connect my CD/MP3 player.  The adapter I have works fine in my car, but > in the truck it just keeps flipping sides and then finally gets spat back > out. > I have heard that older adapters work better, but that doesn’t really help > me.  Does anyone know of a market adapter brand/model that works?  I am > getting tired of listening to Abba Gold and Gordon Lightfoot over and over > and over and… =-) > Thanks in advance! > Dave

Response:

I have a 2000? Explorer with a tape deck and I’m trying to find an adapter to connect my CD/MP3 player.  The adapter I have works fine in my car, but in the truck it just keeps flipping sides and then finally gets spat back out. I have heard that older adapters work better, but that doesn’t really help me.  Does anyone know of a market adapter brand/model that works?  I am getting tired of listening to Abba Gold and Gordon Lightfoot over and over and over and… =-) Thanks in advance! Dave

Response:

Question:

Thanks for everyone who replied. I think I will follow Scott’s suggestion of finding a multi-leaf setup from a 4-door Explorer and install it along with some better shocks. Regards, AB.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, >                       My basic 2000 Explorer Sport (5spd, 2wd, 4.0OHV – > noisy on startup ) has single leaf springs on the rear axle with 3 or so > spacers; have looked at the Sport models for other years and they all appear > to have a multi-leaf setup. I am currently running BFG AT T/A 15" 30×9.5 > tires on the truck, inflated at 35+ psi. I find that the truck gets quite > squirrely going over railroad tracks, esp in wet weather. Do you folks think > that retrofitting a multi-leaf setup from a different year plus installing > better shocks (Bilstein?) would help improve the stability of the vehicle in > these conditions? Thanks in advance for any opinions on the matter. > Regards, > AB. > —

Response:

Our ‘96 Sport had single leaf springs. I put a set of stock multi-leafs off of a ‘91 4-door that I lifted and they work nice. They lifted the back a hair and ride much better. SMC

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, >                       My basic 2000 Explorer Sport (5spd, 2wd, 4.0OHV – > noisy on startup ) has single leaf springs on the rear axle with 3 or so > spacers; have looked at the Sport models for other years and they all appear > to have a multi-leaf setup. I am currently running BFG AT T/A 15" 30×9.5 > tires on the truck, inflated at 35+ psi. I find that the truck gets quite > squirrely going over railroad tracks, esp in wet weather. Do you folks think > that retrofitting a multi-leaf setup from a different year plus installing > better shocks (Bilstein?) would help improve the stability of the vehicle in > these conditions? Thanks in advance for any opinions on the matter. > Regards, > AB. > —

Response:

Hello everyone,                       My basic 2000 Explorer Sport (5spd, 2wd, 4.0OHV – noisy on startup ) has single leaf springs on the rear axle with 3 or so spacers; have looked at the Sport models for other years and they all appear to have a multi-leaf setup. I am currently running BFG AT T/A 15" 30×9.5 tires on the truck, inflated at 35+ psi. I find that the truck gets quite squirrely going over railroad tracks, esp in wet weather. Do you folks think that retrofitting a multi-leaf setup from a different year plus installing better shocks (Bilstein?) would help improve the stability of the vehicle in these conditions? Thanks in advance for any opinions on the matter. Regards, AB. —

Response:

Question:

I have a 2000 explorer xls, and I am going to purchase a new muffler. I want a muffler that sounds goods, has good performance, and doesn’t dent the wallet. What is a good muffler for a reasonable amount? Thanks for any info. Joe — "This looks like a job for SUPERMAN!"                    ~Clark Kent~

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 2000 explorer xls, and I am going to purchase a new muffler. I want > a muffler that sounds goods, has good performance, and doesn’t dent the > wallet. What is a good muffler for a reasonable amount? Thanks for any info. > Joe > — > "This looks like a job for SUPERMAN!" >                    ~Clark Kent~

This leads to another question – do you need the mufler or just the resonator?  (I had to replace what I thought was the muffler lately on my Explorer  - previous vehicle – and found out it was the resonator which had failed.) And what is the resonator, exactly?  When did they get added, and what do they do, anyway?  (I hadn’t looked at exaust systems for about 20 years before then, so this resonator thing snuck up on me.) ? HR.

Response:

Resonators have been around for a zillion years….. usually found on "higher end" vehicles, they are used to "shape" the exhaust sound to make it more "pleasant". As for muffler price, if you buy a cheap muffler, you can expect a cheap muffler – EFI vehicles produce more water vapour than carburetted vehicles and this shows up in life of exhaust components. In general, I have found that exhaust "patch-ups" (trying to save money where it is un-wise) require repairs much sooner than factory or factory style replacements – even as high as a 4-1 ratio in my area, negating the effect of any apparent saving. YMMV….. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2000 explorer xls, and I am going to purchase a new muffler. I want > a muffler that sounds goods, has good performance, and doesn’t dent the > wallet. What is a good muffler for a reasonable amount? Thanks for any info. > Joe > — > "This looks like a job for SUPERMAN!" >                    ~Clark Kent~ > This leads to another question – do you need the mufler or just the > resonator?  (I had to replace what I thought was the muffler lately on > my Explorer  - previous vehicle – and found out it was the resonator > which had failed.) > And what is the resonator, exactly?  When did they get added, and what > do they do, anyway?  (I hadn’t looked at exaust systems for about 20 > years before then, so this resonator thing snuck up on me.) > ? > HR.

Response:

> I have a 2000 explorer xls, and I am going to purchase a new muffler. I want > a muffler that sounds goods, has good performance, and doesn’t dent the > wallet. What is a good muffler for a reasonable amount? Thanks for any info. > Joe

What is your definition of "sounds good"?  I don’t know if they are available for your vehicle but a Walker Dynamax (not the stainless steel model) muffler is very free flowing but sounds virtually the same as stock and has a lifetime replacement guarantee. I installed one on an older pickup along with the  matching mandrel bent exhaust pipes and the operating temp dropped 20F immediately both when towing a trailer and when running empty. — Don Dickson

Response:

I think he ment "sounds good" as a deep-throated sound to make it sound a little more beefier. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2000 explorer xls, and I am going to purchase a new muffler. I want > a muffler that sounds goods, has good performance, and doesn’t dent the > wallet. What is a good muffler for a reasonable amount? Thanks for any info. > Joe > What is your definition of "sounds good"?  I don’t know if they are > available for your vehicle but a Walker Dynamax (not the stainless > steel model) muffler is very free flowing but sounds virtually the > same as stock and has a lifetime replacement guarantee. I installed > one on an older pickup along with the  matching mandrel bent exhaust > pipes and the operating temp dropped 20F immediately both when towing > a trailer and when running empty. > — > Don Dickson

Response:

Check out the Dynamax Super Turbos, I’m pretty sure they make them for the 4liter. I’ve seen them on aRangers and they sound pretty good. I had them on my mustang and they had more power (even at low RPMs) than the flowmasters I took off. The sound is great, deep and throaty but not too loud. I paid like $35 buck apiece.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2000 explorer xls, and I am going to purchase a new muffler. I want > a muffler that sounds goods, has good performance, and doesn’t dent the > wallet. What is a good muffler for a reasonable amount? Thanks for any info. > Joe > — > "This looks like a job for SUPERMAN!" >                    ~Clark Kent~

Response:

Please go to your local muffler shop (independent one) and ask about Magnaflow. Also look at www.magnaflow.com  They have quality construction with 16 ga aluminized steel – many others use just 18 ga.  Many styles, sizes, and shapes available. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 2000 explorer xls, and I am going to purchase a new muffler. I want > a muffler that sounds goods, has good performance, and doesn’t dent the > wallet. What is a good muffler for a reasonable amount? Thanks for any info. > Joe > — > "This looks like a job for SUPERMAN!" >                    ~Clark Kent~

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Question:

Thanks everybody for your input, I will try it out this weekend! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There is a reason they color code some of the liquids…. > > My father accidently put the rad fliud in my windshield washer holder, now > > my windshield is very > > oily when it rains, you can see the iol spots. I’ve washed the wipers and > > the windshield but it got worse, any way i can remove the oil stains on the > > windshield? > Use a rag saturated in White vinegar. Be very careful not to get any on > the paint. > Wipe off with a towel, and follow up with windex or a top quality glass > cleaner. > HTH > — > "Freedom Is a Light for Which Many Have Died in Darkness" >  - Tomb of the unknown – American Revolution

Response:

> There is a reason they color code some of the liquids…. > My father accidently put the rad fliud in my windshield washer holder, now > my windshield is very > oily when it rains, you can see the iol spots. I’ve washed the wipers and > the windshield but it got worse, any way i can remove the oil stains on the > windshield?

Use a rag saturated in White vinegar. Be very careful not to get any on the paint. Wipe off with a towel, and follow up with windex or a top quality glass cleaner. HTH — "Freedom Is a Light for Which Many Have Died in Darkness"  - Tomb of the unknown – American Revolution

Response:

Yes….. so we know when to say "OOPS!". Pee is yellow and c*m is white so we know if we’re coming or going…..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There is a reason they color code some of the liquids…. > My father accidently put the rad fliud in my windshield washer holder, now > my windshield is very > oily when it rains, you can see the iol spots. I’ve washed the wipers and > the windshield but it got worse, any way i can remove the oil stains on the > windshield?

Response:

There is a reason they color code some of the liquids…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My father accidently put the rad fliud in my windshield washer holder, now > my windshield is very > oily when it rains, you can see the iol spots. I’ve washed the wipers and > the windshield but it got worse, any way i can remove the oil stains on the > windshield?

Response:

777:  What is the best way to remove the oily film of coolant from a vehicle’s windshield? PRESTONE:  Thanks very much for your inquiry. Antifreeze is water soluble so we would recommend that you use a warm soapy water to help remove. Additionally, a multi-purpose glass cleaner may also be of further assistance. We hope this has been helpful. Prestone 777:  There you have it!  From the folks that should know. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1.) Try Dawn or JOY dishwashing liquid….you could also dilute some in a > gallon jug and run it through the reservoir to help remove any residual in > the tank and lines.

Response:

you need a serious degreaser like WD-40. Most people think of it as a lubricant but it is actually a petroleum distillate.

Response:

A few suggestions in increasing levels of aggressiveness….. 1.) Try Dawn or JOY dishwashing liquid….you could also dilute some in a gallon jug and run it through the reservoir to help remove any residual in the tank and lines. 2.) or Rain-X …mostly alcohol, self-cleaning, plus works really well in the rain 3.) or Scrub it down good with white vinegar Now for the more aggresive stuff….wear gloves and be careful not to get any on your paint! 4.) The active ingredient in a lot of the window cleaner is ammonia. CAREFULLY!!!!  lightly dampen a rag with ammonia to clean the window.  Avoid getting on the paint and window moldings. 5.)  There is one more EXTREMELY aggressive suggestion…but I do NOT recommend it for ethylene-glycol…the dishwashing liquid should take care if it.  For industrial pollutants or diesel smoke stains on glass, you can use Sno-Bowl or "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner.  This is basically hydrochloric acid so I don’t think I need to go into depth on the negative effets of acid on paint and metal. A friend of mine used to live next to a truck yard and his very dark tinted windows used to get a terrible looking purple/blue film from the diesel smoke.  No matter what he tried, nothing worked except the toilet bowl cleaner. Obviously, you’ll want to rinse everything off really well with copious amounts of water when your finished. 777

Response:

I’ve been told that the carbonation in a soda drink would cut the oily grease.  You might try that. — Jason "If you’re gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough!"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My father accidently put the rad fliud in my windshield washer holder, now > my windshield is very > oily when it rains, you can see the iol spots. I’ve washed the wipers and > the windshield but it got worse, any way i can remove the oil stains on the > windshield?

Response:

Coca Cola contains the most phosphoric acid among the top soft drink brands. Along the lines of 0.11% phosphoric acid,  that is if I done the spectrophotometrey correctly in chem lab. Wesley Murphy 91 EB 4×4

> I’ve been told that the carbonation in a soda drink would cut the oily > grease.  You might try that. > — > Jason > "If you’re gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough!"

— Message scanned and found to be virus-free before delivery. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

My father accidently put the rad fliud in my windshield washer holder, now my windshield is very oily when it rains, you can see the iol spots. I’ve washed the wipers and the windshield but it got worse, any way i can remove the oil stains on the windshield?

Response:

Glycol sticks like crap on a wool blanket….. if it were mine, I’d use a glass cleaner containing ammonia and replace the wiper blades at the same time. To do either one of these separately would "re-infect" the other. Ooops, BEFORE I did this, I’d remove the washer reservoir and rinse it….. rinse it lots…. and then rinse it some more….. Then, I’d reinstall the reservoir and pump a bunch of washer fluid through the lines and nozzles. After all that, I’d have Dad take me and Mum out for a nice supper at a moderately upscale restaraunt as restitution…… say a nice prime rib, a really decent wine with Irish coffee for dessert. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My father accidently put the rad fliud in my windshield washer holder, now > my windshield is very > oily when it rains, you can see the iol spots. I’ve washed the wipers and > the windshield but it got worse, any way i can remove the oil stains on the > windshield?

Response:

Question:

I use Pennzoil 5-30 in both my 2000 Explorer and 97 Escort.  The Explorer has 36,000 miles on it, and the oil is always black.  The Escort has 120,000 miles on it, and the oil is always nearly clear.  This puzzles me.  Can anyone explain why the newer engine would discolor the oil so much, and the much old engine leave it looking like it just came out of the can? Many thanks. — CWLee Former slayer of dragons; practice now limited to sacred cows.  Believing we should hire for quality, not quotas, and promote for performance, not preferences.

Response:

dark oil does not have to mean that it is dirty.for piece of mind, send a small sample to an oil analyzer,they will tell you everything you will need to know.they will want to know what filter is used,how many miles on the oil,how many miles on the filter,what kind of oil. I have sent them some oil in the past,the oil analyzers inc.# is(715)395-0222 in superior Wisconsin — William S.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I use Pennzoil 5-30 in both my 2000 Explorer and 97 Escort.  The Explorer > has 36,000 miles on it, and the oil is always black.  The Escort has 120,000 > miles on it, and the oil is always nearly clear.  This puzzles me.  Can > anyone explain why the newer engine would discolor the oil so much, and the > much old engine leave it looking like it just came out of the can? > Many thanks. > — > CWLee > Former slayer of dragons; practice now limited to sacred cows.  Believing we > should hire for quality, not quotas, and promote for performance, not > preferences.

Response:

Without a detailed oil analysis it can be very difficult to determine the cause. The discolouration could be from particles suspended in the oil or from constituents of the add pack breaking down or a combination. Even two "identical" motors can wind up with very different "personalities" (for want of a better term) regarding wear, oil dispersion, blow by. Other factors affecting oil discolouration could include type of operation, frequency of operation, weather, operator habits and styles (many years ago I drove my ‘85 F150 like a gentleman – my ‘88 5.0 Mustang was a whole ‘nother story). I think that there’s way too many variables to nail down the cause for one as being the cause for all instances of dark motor oil. I was told many years ago by my first "mentor" that the colour of the motor oil had little bearing on whether it was clean or not… — Jim Warman Slave Lake, Alberta, Canada

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I use Pennzoil 5-30 in both my 2000 Explorer and 97 Escort.  The Explorer > has 36,000 miles on it, and the oil is always black.  The Escort has 120,000 > miles on it, and the oil is always nearly clear.  This puzzles me.  Can > anyone explain why the newer engine would discolor the oil so much, and the > much old engine leave it looking like it just came out of the can? > Many thanks. > — > CWLee > Former slayer of dragons; practice now limited to sacred cows.  Believing we > should hire for quality, not quotas, and promote for performance, not > preferences.

Response:

Thanks, and while not questioning your information at all, I don’t understand your term "add pack".  Could you explain to me what that is? Thanks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> … The discolouration could be from particles suspended in the oil or > from constituents of the add pack breaking down or a combination.

Response:

> Thanks, and while not questioning your information at all, I don’t > understand your term "add pack".  Could you explain to me what that is? > Thanks. > … The discolouration could be from particles suspended in the oil or > from constituents of the add pack breaking down or a combination.

additive Package

Response:

The litre (or quart) of oil you pull off the shelf is much, much more than just "oil". The oil itself doesn’t wear out but there are many other things that can affect it. The add pack contains chemical additives that prevent or at least control the bad things that can happen to the oil. Anti-foamants, anti-oxidants, anti-acids, pour point viscosity improvers, – the list goes on. It’s the add pack that determines if the oil is SG, SH, CC or whatever. The add pack also established whether the oil is 10W30 or 5W40 (does anyone know what the "W" stands for???). There is much more to oil than we laymen can ever hope to understand but I think it safe to assume that they are not all equal….. — Jim Warman Slave Lake, Alberta, Canada

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks, and while not questioning your information at all, I don’t > understand your term "add pack".  Could you explain to me what that is? > Thanks. > … The discolouration could be from particles suspended in the oil or > from constituents of the add pack breaking down or a combination.

Response:

> The litre (or quart) of oil you pull off the shelf is much, much more than > just "oil". The oil itself doesn’t wear out but there are many other things > that can affect it. The add pack contains chemical additives that prevent or > at least control the bad things that can happen to the oil. Anti-foamants, > anti-oxidants, anti-acids, pour point viscosity improvers, – the list goes > on. It’s the add pack that determines if the oil is SG, SH, CC or whatever. > The add pack also established whether the oil is 10W30 or 5W40 (does anyone > know what the "W" stands for???).

From – http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html "The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use." http://www.ihigh.com/0,1773,2_10_0_35795,00.html From http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/motoroils.shtm – "The "W" or "Winter" designation indicates that the oil meets viscosity requirements for low temperatures (below 30

Question:

Another dealer FOUND IT AND FIXED IT! Due to some sort of defect, water got into the horn. Fixed…end problem!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My brother has a 2000 Explorer Limited with 30,000 miles on it at 2 years of > age. He reports that for the past year, he has been blowing the fuse that > controls the horn and cruise control. He says he can’t find any other > electrical  "outage" although I would suspect that more than the horn and > cruise would be on one circuit. > He has had it to one dealer three times for this but, so far, no luck. It > still happens. Tomorrow I have an appointment to take it to MY dealer. I > just thought I’d post this and perhaps someone else is familiar with this > problem.

Response:

Actually, Bill, I try to be upfront about this kind of stuff – now with the proliferation of electronics on modern vehicles, the cost of diagnosis often outstrips the cost of the repair many times over. Probably the biggest single asset in isolating electrical faults is the ability to perform and understand voltage drop tests – but it can still be frustrating – especially when the customer has a budget of $XX and you’re flirting with the end of it with only a "couple" more things to check. Your right about the majority of techs coming up a little short on the electrical abilities – it’s a tough subject to get a handle on when you get into the realm of intermittents, bad grounds and feedback in circuits – at the same time as your dealing with what the stereo/remote starter bozo left behind…. Just another fact of life we all have to deal with. — Jim Warman Slave Lake, Alberta, Canada

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Electrics can be a real headache for the tech to fix. > First, not many have any electrical experience beyond setting up a > stereo (sounds harsh, but it’s true). > Second, even *with* such experience, a knowledge and ‘feel’ for > troubleshooting is essential. > Third, the electrics can be one of the most time-consuming (and > expensive) things to fix on a car. At over $70/hr for many shops (and > probably higher in dealers), troubleshooting adds up in a hurry. And > the frustation level gets really high when the problem turns out to be > a piddling small problem like a chafed wire that took 3 hours to find: > $10 to fix, with over $200 in just finding the problem added onto the > bill. > And, of course, the techs just *love* hearing about this, as well. > — > Bill Funk > http://www.users.qwest.net/~bfunk33/

Response:

>A quick peak in the owners manual would list out everything on that circuit >and at least give you a place to start. There has been the rare occasion >where a tech has had to break out each individual branch of a circuit and >fuse them independently to narrow down a problem – a spendy diagnostic, but >sometimes necessary. >Good luck….

Electrics can be a real headache for the tech to fix. First, not many have any electrical experience beyond setting up a stereo (sounds harsh, but it’s true). Second, even *with* such experience, a knowledge and ‘feel’ for troubleshooting is essential. Third, the electrics can be one of the most time-consuming (and expensive) things to fix on a car. At over $70/hr for many shops (and probably higher in dealers), troubleshooting adds up in a hurry. And the frustation level gets really high when the problem turns out to be a piddling small problem like a chafed wire that took 3 hours to find: $10 to fix, with over $200 in just finding the problem added onto the bill. And, of course, the techs just *love* hearing about this, as well. — Bill Funk http://www.users.qwest.net/~bfunk33/

Response:

A quick peak in the owners manual would list out everything on that circuit and at least give you a place to start. There has been the rare occasion where a tech has had to break out each individual branch of a circuit and fuse them independently to narrow down a problem – a spendy diagnostic, but sometimes necessary. Good luck…. — Jim Warman Slave Lake, Alberta, Canada

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My brother has a 2000 Explorer Limited with 30,000 miles on it at 2 years of > age. He reports that for the past year, he has been blowing the fuse that > controls the horn and cruise control. He says he can’t find any other > electrical  "outage" although I would suspect that more than the horn and > cruise would be on one circuit. > He has had it to one dealer three times for this but, so far, no luck. It > still happens. Tomorrow I have an appointment to take it to MY dealer. I > just thought I’d post this and perhaps someone else is familiar with this > problem.

Response:

> A quick peak in the owners manual would list out everything on that circuit > and at least give you a place to start. There has been the rare occasion > where a tech has had to break out each individual branch of a circuit and > fuse them independently to narrow down a problem – a spendy diagnostic, but > sometimes necessary.

Just a story so you know what kind of detective work you’re in for. This was in a Chrysler Mini Van. Late in summer the fuse for the various signal and brake lights started blowing a LOT. Couldn’t trace it down. Then it seemed to go away. I figured water somewhere that had evaporated. Suddenly in the late spring it started again. Then I noticed it happened each time shortly after turning on the AC. Turned out that a short in the AC controls was doing it via some sort of ground feed back. When I fixed the AC switch the lights stayed on. The moral. Don’t buy an old Chrysler (84) mini van and pay attention as to what has just happened when it goes out.

Response:

If the second dealer is at a loss, try this little trick. Replace the subject fuse with a 12 volt lamp. Use a test light or rig up your own with a brake light lamp or something  similar. Now with the key on, wiggle, jiggle, poke, twist and turn anything remotely connected with that circuit. Turn the steering wheel, adjust the steering wheel, etc.etc. Do NOT blow the horn. If you get that bulb to come on or blink, you will be on the track of the short. You cannot create an electrical problem doing this as the bulb will always be a satisfactory load on the system. Charlie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My brother has a 2000 Explorer Limited with 30,000 miles on it at 2 years of > age. He reports that for the past year, he has been blowing the fuse that > controls the horn and cruise control. He says he can’t find any other > electrical  "outage" although I would suspect that more than the horn and > cruise would be on one circuit. > He has had it to one dealer three times for this but, so far, no luck. It > still happens. Tomorrow I have an appointment to take it to MY dealer. I > just thought I’d post this and perhaps someone else is familiar with this > problem.

Response:

Try disconnecting the horn under the hood and see if the fuse still blows. If it does not, you have a defective horn. If the fuse still blows, it is someplace else.

Response:

My brother has a 2000 Explorer Limited with 30,000 miles on it at 2 years of age. He reports that for the past year, he has been blowing the fuse that controls the horn and cruise control. He says he can’t find any other electrical  "outage" although I would suspect that more than the horn and cruise would be on one circuit. He has had it to one dealer three times for this but, so far, no luck. It still happens. Tomorrow I have an appointment to take it to MY dealer. I just thought I’d post this and perhaps someone else is familiar with this problem.

Response: