> I have a 2001 explorer Sport and I am hearing a humming noise….Sounds like > its coming from the engine…I had the transmission flushed thinking maybe > that would solve the humming…but its still there…any suggestions?

I had that happen on my 96.  Turned out there is a small motor on the air intake that operates a damper for quicker warm ups.  It had failed causing the humming to increase as the engine warmed up. Gets really loud.

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Vacuum leaks can often offer up a reedy sounding buzz or hum. You can try disconnecting the IAC and see if that might be the problem….. there is no "warm up valve" on the intake. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2001 explorer Sport and I am hearing a humming noise….Sounds like > its coming from the engine…I had the transmission flushed thinking maybe > that would solve the humming…but its still there…any suggestions?

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> I have a 2001 explorer Sport and I am hearing a humming noise….Sounds like > its coming from the engine…I had the transmission flushed thinking maybe > that would solve the humming…but its still there…any suggestions? > I had that happen on my 96.  Turned out there is a small motor on the > air intake that operates a damper for quicker warm ups.  It had failed > causing the humming to increase as the engine warmed up. Gets really > loud.

I had the same problem on my ‘98.  Some times it would cause a sputter if I got on the gas too quick from a stop.  I would call it more of a whistling however.

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I have a 2001 explorer Sport and I am hearing a humming noise….Sounds like its coming from the engine…I had the transmission flushed thinking maybe that would solve the humming…but its still there…any suggestions?

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Hi Dave, I had a similar problem with my 93′. I was told to tap on the transfer case shift motor a few times to loosen all the carbon build up over the years. Might be worth a try. Otherwise if it’s still under warrenty, let them figure it out. Good luck.

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It snowed last night so my wife tried out the 4wd for the first time and it didn’t work. Also the 4 hi and 4low lights in the dash don’t come on. I checked the fuses in the dash and under the hood and all were ok. After reinstalling a fuse under the dash, the 4 hi lite came on momentarily but then went out again. I have an appointment next week at the dealer to get it checked out but wonder what the problem might be and if this is a common complaint. The vehicle is a …… 2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L 4×4 Automatic trans 15K miles Thanks, Dave

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I bought a 2001 Explorer XLS with 52,000 miles on it in July. Since I got it it idles at around 400 rpm after it warms up. I’m not having any stalling or dying problems with it even with the AC on but I thought this engine should idle at around 700 rpm. What could be causing it to idle so low?  All maintenance has been kept up on it. (I have the records for that)  I run Exxon 87octane gas in it. The original owner who I bought it from drove mainly highway miles on it. Thanks for any input on this.

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Look at the following for your answer. 18 Sep 2003 ‘01 Explorer Sport stall problem  (5 articles) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I bought a 2001 Explorer XLS with 52,000 miles on it in July. Since I got it > it idles at around 400 rpm after it warms up. I’m not having any stalling or > dying problems with it even with the AC on but I thought this engine should > idle at around 700 rpm. What could be causing it to idle so low?  All > maintenance has been kept up on it. (I have the records for that)  I run > Exxon 87octane gas in it. The original owner who I bought it from drove > mainly highway miles on it. Thanks for any input on this.

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Why are you complaining?  It’s saving you GAS! If it’s not stalling or dying…   it’s NOT a problem! I wish my Explorer would idle that low…  

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a 2001 Explorer XLS with 52,000 miles on it in July. Since I got it > it idles at around 400 rpm after it warms up. I’m not having any stalling or > dying problems with it even with the AC on but I thought this engine should > idle at around 700 rpm. What could be causing it to idle so low?  All > maintenance has been kept up on it. (I have the records for that)  I run > Exxon 87octane gas in it. The original owner who I bought it from drove > mainly highway miles on it. Thanks for any input on this.

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I had the bearings in my rear differential changed by an independent mechanic for about $400.  That solved a similar problem I had.  The noise was there any time the wheels were turning, but only became noticeable at high speeds or when the windows were down and the radio off. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > May I recommend you put it on a lift (or jack both rear wheels off the > ground), put it in gear, > get underneath and listen to the drive train at lower speeds.  It is likely > that the noise is there > all the time, but not loud enough for you to hear inside the vehicle. > I’ve heard that Explorers of the era have had some bearing problems in the > differential.  I nearly > purchased a 2001 Sport Trac with a subtle rear end noise.  I asked a > mechanic to lift it and check > out the noise.  Bad bearings and metal in the diff oil.  I backed out of the > purchase. > Alan Geist > asgeist at ichips dot intel dot com >Is this a common problem? This one has a loud whine at about 70 but no >noise until then. >Thanks.

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Is this a common problem? This one has a loud whine at about 70 but no noise until then.   Thanks.

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May I recommend you put it on a lift (or jack both rear wheels off the ground), put it in gear, get underneath and listen to the drive train at lower speeds.  It is likely that the noise is there all the time, but not loud enough for you to hear inside the vehicle. I’ve heard that Explorers of the era have had some bearing problems in the differential.  I nearly purchased a 2001 Sport Trac with a subtle rear end noise.  I asked a mechanic to lift it and check out the noise.  Bad bearings and metal in the diff oil.  I backed out of the purchase. Alan Geist asgeist at ichips dot intel dot com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is this a common problem? This one has a loud whine at about 70 but no > noise until then. > Thanks.

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My wife and I purchased a 2001 Explorer Sport, 6cyl, 2WD, in Dec of 2000.   So far its been a reliable automobile.  This is my first experience with an Explorer.   At the moment I am wondering about this vehicle’s long term reliability, not because we are having problems, but because I am debating whether or not I should pay it off. With only 10,000 miles being put on it since we bought it (used with 16k miles), its been great.  However, we are moving out of state and my wife’s commute distance will be 60 miles a day. So I am wondering if this vehicle will be worth keeping through, say, 100,000 miles and beyond.  I don’t want to sink a huge amount of money into paying it off if we’re only going to have to replace it in the (near) future. Can anyone tell me if a properly maintained, well cared for 2001 Sport will be reliable long term? Thanks. BT —

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I don’t know if you can say if one model year to another will make any difference.  I have a 1996 Sport 4WD with 120,000 miles on it.  The only things that have broken on it are pretty minor. I did have the transmission seals replaced, but that was under factory warrantee.  I replaced the battery, starter motor, plugs and wires, break job twice.  Had a flaky ABS sensor, but I think that was damaged by the shop when they did the break job.   Most of this is pretty standard maintenance work that you do over time.  I use 5w30 synthetic oil and just keep it clean. I expect to get another 3-4 years out of it with little to no major expenses.  I don’t see why it wouldn’t last.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My wife and I purchased a 2001 Explorer Sport, 6cyl, 2WD, in Dec of 2000. > So far its been a reliable automobile.  This is my first experience with > an Explorer. > At the moment I am wondering about this vehicle’s long term reliability, > not because we are having problems, but because I am debating whether or > not I should pay it off. > With only 10,000 miles being put on it since we bought it (used with 16k > miles), its been great.  However, we are moving out of state and my wife’s > commute distance will be 60 miles a day. > So I am wondering if this vehicle will be worth keeping through, say, > 100,000 miles and beyond.  I don’t want to sink a huge amount of money > into paying it off if we’re only going to have to replace it in the (near) > future. > Can anyone tell me if a properly maintained, well cared for 2001 Sport > will be reliable long term? > Thanks. > BT > —

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I don’t see why either.  I have a 1996 4 Door 4WD XLT with the same mileage, and haven’t had any problems other than a seal on the Intake Air Manifold from the EGR tube.  I do all maintenance myself, and use all the right type of synthetic oil in mine too, where applicable (everywhere, tranny, xfer case, engine, diff, etc…) I plan on getting lots more miles and years too. Keep her maintained and adjusted.  :) r/ -IanCT

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t know if you can say if one model year to another will make any > difference.  I have a 1996 Sport 4WD with 120,000 miles on it.  The only > things that have broken on it are pretty minor. > I did have the transmission seals replaced, but that was under factory > warrantee.  I replaced the battery, starter motor, plugs and wires, break > job twice.  Had a flaky ABS sensor, but I think that was damaged by the shop > when they did the break job.   Most of this is pretty standard maintenance > work that you do over time.  I use 5w30 synthetic oil and just keep it > clean. > I expect to get another 3-4 years out of it with little to no major > expenses.  I don’t see why it wouldn’t last. > My wife and I purchased a 2001 Explorer Sport, 6cyl, 2WD, in Dec of 2000. > So far its been a reliable automobile.  This is my first experience with > an Explorer. > At the moment I am wondering about this vehicle’s long term reliability, > not because we are having problems, but because I am debating whether or > not I should pay it off. > With only 10,000 miles being put on it since we bought it (used with 16k > miles), its been great.  However, we are moving out of state and my wife’s > commute distance will be 60 miles a day. > So I am wondering if this vehicle will be worth keeping through, say, > 100,000 miles and beyond.  I don’t want to sink a huge amount of money > into paying it off if we’re only going to have to replace it in the (near) > future. > Can anyone tell me if a properly maintained, well cared for 2001 Sport > will be reliable long term? > Thanks. > BT > —

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I recently upgraded from a 1996 Sport to a 2001 Sport and have an annoying problem.  There is a terrible cold air draft entering the vehicle on both doors in the vicinity of the speakers.  Has anyone else have the same problem and what is the fix? Thanks, Jim

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Sounds like the weathersshield has been damaged – possibly when aftermarket speakers were installed? You’ll need to pull the door panels and take a look to be sure. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I recently upgraded from a 1996 Sport to a 2001 Sport and have an > annoying problem.  There is a terrible cold air draft entering the > vehicle on both doors in the vicinity of the speakers.  Has anyone > else have the same problem and what is the fix? > Thanks, Jim

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Thanks Jim, they are the factory speakers and the vehicle was a new leftover.  I guess it’s time for a trip to the local dealer — Jim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sounds like the weathersshield has been damaged – possibly when aftermarket > speakers were installed? You’ll need to pull the door panels and take a look > to be sure. > — > Jim Warman

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Recently I attempted to use my auto high 4×4 only to find that neither of the 4X4 settings would engage. If anyone else has experienced this problem could you please respond what the outcome was. Figures when you finally need it in snow — it does not work! Debster

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Recently had that problem with my ‘93, not sure if it’s the same on the ‘01 but it’s worth a shot.  When I would push the 4×4 button, I would hear a click coming from the control box in the rear jack compartment, But nothing would happen.  Turned out to be the electric motor on the transfer case that engages the lock.  Took it off and pulled it apart, found the brushes were dirty and not making contact. Cleaned it up and put it back on and it works great again. Bad design on Fords part.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Recently I attempted to use my auto high 4×4 only to find that neither > of the 4X4 settings would engage. > If anyone else has experienced this problem could you please respond > what the outcome was. > Figures when you finally need it in snow — it does not work! > Debster

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These kinds of things are getting hard to diagnose for those without some of the specialty tools available to dealerships. The only service manuals I can access from home are for 2002/2003 but we can wing it a bit – the 2001 should be pretty close to the ‘02. First step is to check the fuse numbers 17 & 18 n the battery junction box and fuse numbers 12, 15 & 29 in the central junction box. After that it gets complicated… — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Recently I attempted to use my auto high 4×4 only to find that neither > of the 4X4 settings would engage. > If anyone else has experienced this problem could you please respond > what the outcome was. > Figures when you finally need it in snow — it does not work! > Debster

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Oh man, this is one of my favorite modifications that I have made that is a simple procedure.  I got VentVisors II, ordered them from the internet because no locals had the right ones in stock. On a 94 sport, they fit like a glove. _under 40 bucks_. They are just a cheaper Lexan-ripoff, so they are fine as long as you dont burn them with a cigerette.  Reason #1 why I got them: Keep my door power controls (locks, windows and mirrors dryy, no shorts!). #2: smoking with windows cracked in bad weather. (also gows to #1). #3 no body knows when your windows are cracked if you have to drive through a bad area.

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Depends, I have  a 97 and I cant tell any difference at all. Basically, they are just to look good.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 2001 Explorer Sport has ALOT of wind noise around the front > windows.  Are the ventvisors worth the investment and do they actually > cut down on the noise? > Thanks > Dan

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My 2001 Explorer Sport has ALOT of wind noise around the front windows.  Are the ventvisors worth the investment and do they actually cut down on the noise? Thanks Dan

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Yes and yes…. Start with a clean truck, use the supplied alcohol wipes and test fit the visors…. Once the adhesive makes contact, there is seldom any going back…. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 2001 Explorer Sport has ALOT of wind noise around the front > windows.  Are the ventvisors worth the investment and do they actually > cut down on the noise? > Thanks > Dan

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What do you mean by "flares"?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I haven’t waxed my 2001 Explorer XLS since I bought it last Aug. It’s > showing some embedded dirt on the flares on the hood. > Is it best to wax and compound the car or is just waxing enought and > preferable? I was wondering if componding damages the car?

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>I haven’t waxed my 2001 Explorer XLS since I bought it last Aug. It’s >showing some embedded dirt on the flares on the hood. >Is it best to wax and compound the car or is just waxing enought and >preferable? I was wondering if componding damages the car?

My advise is go to Wal-Mart and get Mothers’ Clay Bar and a bottle of Maguiar’s Quik Detail (QD) spray.  They’re about $16 total and get Nu Finish, if you’re on a budget or get Klasse twins (All-In-One Cleaner (AIO) and Sealant Glaze (SG)) (you can get it from http://www.properautocare.com/klasconkit.html) or Zaino (http://www.zainobros.com). First, wash the car with car soap (NEVER EVER USE DISWASHING DETERGENT) clay the whole car.  When you get that clay bar, use a knife or a pair of scissors and cut about 1/3 of the bar because you won’t use the whole thing.  Use that QD spray and spray a relatively small area (2′x2′) then rub the clay over the spray.  You will feel the bar rubbing because it would be rough when going over the dirty area.  Do it until you feel the bar is gliding along without any friction.  If the clay sticks to the paint, spray a little more QD then rub the bar over until it smooths out. Second, since I have the Klasse Concours Kit (which also come with 2 microfiber applicators), you use one applicator for AIO and the other for SG.  First thing you want to is spray some QD on the first microfiber applicator, then only apply a dime size amount of AIO then apply.  Since this is a special kind of wax, that dime size amount is enough to do half of your hood.  You won’t see any residue or anything on the paint so remember where you applied the AIO. Also, a dime size amount of AIO will cover two of your front fenders and two of the door panels.  Do a small area at a time.  Once you’ve done that small area, use the other side of the applicator and wipe off the AIO.  After that, you’ll be very surprised how smooth it is.  Then continue for the rest of the car. Once you’ve done that, it’s time to use the SG.  Use the other microfiber applicator.  This time, do not spray QD on the applicator.  Again, a dime sized amount is enough to do half the hood or two front fenders or two of the door panels.  Instead of doing only a small area then rub off, you apply SG on the whole car.  Once you’ve finished applying, let the SG cure on the paint for at least 20 minutes.  Now that’s the recommanded time but if you want a better result, let it sit overnight in a garage or wait an hour but remember this sealant requires time to cure so don’t wipe it off immediately.  Wait a couple of days or a week, wash your car with a car soap then apply another coat of SG as described above.  To obtain the maximum shine, but about 3 coats of SG. Since this is a synthetic wax, it’ll last a very long time (about 6 months as opposed to 2 months) and it’ll look great!  This job took me about 7 hours to do but it’s very very rewarding once it is done.   Good luck and if you have any problems, email me or go to this website, http://autopia.ws.  The people there will help you.  That’s where I learned all these things. Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer

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>Want to come over and do it for me?!!!!

Hahaha…it’s your car.  You should do it yourself.  It’s more rewarding that way. Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer

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If there is any dirt on the paint when you wax it, you’re just going to scratch the hell out of the paint when it dislodges and you’re polishing it back up. I suggest a gentle hand wash with plenty of water flow to keep your [insert whatever you're using to wash with, personally I use a hand mit] clean – this will keep you from grinding dirt back into the clearcoat and scratching it. JS

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I haven’t waxed my 2001 Explorer XLS since I bought it last Aug. It’s >>showing some embedded dirt on the flares on the hood. >>Is it best to wax and compound the car or is just waxing enought and >>preferable? I was wondering if componding damages the car? >If you want to keep it looking good for as long as possible stay away >from "compound".  All you’ll do is abrade off the clear coat.  Just >use something that says "clear coat safe" on the bottle.  There is no >such thing as embedded dirt unless it was embedded at the factory.  If >it’s got dirt stuck to it, it’s stuck to the surface of the clear >coat. > Its dirt that won’t come off at the car wash. I’d suspect that > the waxing would get it?

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>If there is any dirt on the paint when you wax it, you’re just going to >scratch the hell out of the paint when it dislodges and you’re polishing it >back up. >I suggest a gentle hand wash with plenty of water flow to keep your [insert >whatever you're using to wash with, personally I use a hand mit] clean – >this will keep you from grinding dirt back into the clearcoat and scratching >it. >JS

That’s the reason why I suggested him to get the clay bar and quik detailing spray.  The clay bar will dislodge all the dirt and oxidations off the paint where as the soap will only take some of the loose dirt off. Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer

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Another tip is to wash, glaze, and wax in a straight back-and forth motion only, never in a circular motion.  Move in the same motion as the air flows over the vehicle when in motion. Circular scratches can be seen from all angles.  A straight line scratch can only be seen from 90 degrees away (perpendicular).  Of course, I’m talking about swirl mark scratches, not deep ones… Jack

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->If there is any dirt on the paint when you wax it, you’re just going to >scratch the hell out of the paint when it dislodges and you’re polishing it >back up. >I suggest a gentle hand wash with plenty of water flow to keep your [insert >whatever you're using to wash with, personally I use a hand mit] clean – >this will keep you from grinding dirt back into the clearcoat and scratching >it. >JS > That’s the reason why I suggested him to get the clay bar and quik detailing > spray.  The clay bar will dislodge all the dirt and oxidations off the paint > where as the soap will only take some of the loose dirt off. > Billy > ‘96 Eddie Bauer

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Has any attempted to replace the standard 16 inch wheels on a 2001 explorer with a set of Lightning wheels ? If so did you have to have the speedometer re-calibrated. Thanks, Deejay

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If memory serves, the Lightning uses the F150 lug pattern, and Explorer uses the Ranger pattern.  It won’t be pretty. JS

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Has any attempted to replace the standard 16 inch wheels on a 2001 explorer > with a set of Lightning wheels ? If so did you have to have the speedometer > re-calibrated. > Thanks, > Deejay

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