Question:

What do you mean by "flares"?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I haven’t waxed my 2001 Explorer XLS since I bought it last Aug. It’s > showing some embedded dirt on the flares on the hood. > Is it best to wax and compound the car or is just waxing enought and > preferable? I was wondering if componding damages the car?

Response:

>I haven’t waxed my 2001 Explorer XLS since I bought it last Aug. It’s >showing some embedded dirt on the flares on the hood. >Is it best to wax and compound the car or is just waxing enought and >preferable? I was wondering if componding damages the car?

My advise is go to Wal-Mart and get Mothers’ Clay Bar and a bottle of Maguiar’s Quik Detail (QD) spray.  They’re about $16 total and get Nu Finish, if you’re on a budget or get Klasse twins (All-In-One Cleaner (AIO) and Sealant Glaze (SG)) (you can get it from http://www.properautocare.com/klasconkit.html) or Zaino (http://www.zainobros.com). First, wash the car with car soap (NEVER EVER USE DISWASHING DETERGENT) clay the whole car.  When you get that clay bar, use a knife or a pair of scissors and cut about 1/3 of the bar because you won’t use the whole thing.  Use that QD spray and spray a relatively small area (2′x2′) then rub the clay over the spray.  You will feel the bar rubbing because it would be rough when going over the dirty area.  Do it until you feel the bar is gliding along without any friction.  If the clay sticks to the paint, spray a little more QD then rub the bar over until it smooths out. Second, since I have the Klasse Concours Kit (which also come with 2 microfiber applicators), you use one applicator for AIO and the other for SG.  First thing you want to is spray some QD on the first microfiber applicator, then only apply a dime size amount of AIO then apply.  Since this is a special kind of wax, that dime size amount is enough to do half of your hood.  You won’t see any residue or anything on the paint so remember where you applied the AIO. Also, a dime size amount of AIO will cover two of your front fenders and two of the door panels.  Do a small area at a time.  Once you’ve done that small area, use the other side of the applicator and wipe off the AIO.  After that, you’ll be very surprised how smooth it is.  Then continue for the rest of the car. Once you’ve done that, it’s time to use the SG.  Use the other microfiber applicator.  This time, do not spray QD on the applicator.  Again, a dime sized amount is enough to do half the hood or two front fenders or two of the door panels.  Instead of doing only a small area then rub off, you apply SG on the whole car.  Once you’ve finished applying, let the SG cure on the paint for at least 20 minutes.  Now that’s the recommanded time but if you want a better result, let it sit overnight in a garage or wait an hour but remember this sealant requires time to cure so don’t wipe it off immediately.  Wait a couple of days or a week, wash your car with a car soap then apply another coat of SG as described above.  To obtain the maximum shine, but about 3 coats of SG. Since this is a synthetic wax, it’ll last a very long time (about 6 months as opposed to 2 months) and it’ll look great!  This job took me about 7 hours to do but it’s very very rewarding once it is done.   Good luck and if you have any problems, email me or go to this website, http://autopia.ws.  The people there will help you.  That’s where I learned all these things. Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer

Response:

>Want to come over and do it for me?!!!!

Hahaha…it’s your car.  You should do it yourself.  It’s more rewarding that way. Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer

Response:

If there is any dirt on the paint when you wax it, you’re just going to scratch the hell out of the paint when it dislodges and you’re polishing it back up. I suggest a gentle hand wash with plenty of water flow to keep your [insert whatever you're using to wash with, personally I use a hand mit] clean – this will keep you from grinding dirt back into the clearcoat and scratching it. JS

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I haven’t waxed my 2001 Explorer XLS since I bought it last Aug. It’s >>showing some embedded dirt on the flares on the hood. >>Is it best to wax and compound the car or is just waxing enought and >>preferable? I was wondering if componding damages the car? >If you want to keep it looking good for as long as possible stay away >from "compound".  All you’ll do is abrade off the clear coat.  Just >use something that says "clear coat safe" on the bottle.  There is no >such thing as embedded dirt unless it was embedded at the factory.  If >it’s got dirt stuck to it, it’s stuck to the surface of the clear >coat. > Its dirt that won’t come off at the car wash. I’d suspect that > the waxing would get it?

Response:

>If there is any dirt on the paint when you wax it, you’re just going to >scratch the hell out of the paint when it dislodges and you’re polishing it >back up. >I suggest a gentle hand wash with plenty of water flow to keep your [insert >whatever you're using to wash with, personally I use a hand mit] clean – >this will keep you from grinding dirt back into the clearcoat and scratching >it. >JS

That’s the reason why I suggested him to get the clay bar and quik detailing spray.  The clay bar will dislodge all the dirt and oxidations off the paint where as the soap will only take some of the loose dirt off. Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer

Response:

Another tip is to wash, glaze, and wax in a straight back-and forth motion only, never in a circular motion.  Move in the same motion as the air flows over the vehicle when in motion. Circular scratches can be seen from all angles.  A straight line scratch can only be seen from 90 degrees away (perpendicular).  Of course, I’m talking about swirl mark scratches, not deep ones… Jack

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->If there is any dirt on the paint when you wax it, you’re just going to >scratch the hell out of the paint when it dislodges and you’re polishing it >back up. >I suggest a gentle hand wash with plenty of water flow to keep your [insert >whatever you're using to wash with, personally I use a hand mit] clean – >this will keep you from grinding dirt back into the clearcoat and scratching >it. >JS > That’s the reason why I suggested him to get the clay bar and quik detailing > spray.  The clay bar will dislodge all the dirt and oxidations off the paint > where as the soap will only take some of the loose dirt off. > Billy > ‘96 Eddie Bauer

Response: