Question:

Hi all, I have a 2002 Limited.  About 1500 miles, and love it.  The only nit I have to pick on it though is that the drivers seat seems to shift a little back and forth on the adjusting rails.  Specifically, if I come to a complete stop firmly, then accelerate away, I can feel the seat move maybe an inch or so on the track.  In fact, the seat sets on 2 rails for the forward adjustment, it feels like only the left rail is the one moving.  Almost like that side of the seat isn’t locked into place after adjusting the seat position.  I’m the only one that notices it, as my wife doesn’t weigh enough to make it move. Like I said, it doesnt move much, but enough to be an annoyance…. Have any of you heard of this?  I hate to bring the truck in, for them to tell me ‘thats the way it is, live with it!’ Thanks, Dave

Response:

That does NOT sound normal. I’d bring it in.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I have a 2002 Limited.  About 1500 miles, and love it.  The only nit I > have to pick on it though is that the drivers seat seems to shift a > little back and forth on the adjusting rails.  Specifically, if I come > to a complete stop firmly, then accelerate away, I can feel the seat > move maybe an inch or so on the track.  In fact, the seat sets on 2 > rails for the forward adjustment, it feels like only the left rail is > the one moving.  Almost like that side of the seat isn’t locked into > place after adjusting the seat position.  I’m the only one that > notices it, as my wife doesn’t weigh enough to make it move. > Like I said, it doesnt move much, but enough to be an annoyance…. > Have any of you heard of this?  I hate to bring the truck in, for them > to tell me ‘thats the way it is, live with it!’ > Thanks, Dave

Response:

Yep, I have a 2002 EB with the same phenomenon. Matter of fact, I don’t think it moves an inch, Dave; I think its more like a quarter of an inch and just barely noticeable. I’ve tried to make it move at other times, and can’t simulate the move I notice sometimes after a stop. I have to fly out of town for a few days, so if you happen to take yours in, drop me a note and let me know what they say about it. Now that I know others may be having the problem, I feel less like I’m imagining it. Harlan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi all, > I have a 2002 Limited.  About 1500 miles, and love it.  The only nit I > have to pick on it though is that the drivers seat seems to shift a > little back and forth on the adjusting rails.  Specifically, if I come > to a complete stop firmly, then accelerate away, I can feel the seat > move maybe an inch or so on the track.  In fact, the seat sets on 2 > rails for the forward adjustment, it feels like only the left rail is > the one moving.  Almost like that side of the seat isn’t locked into > place after adjusting the seat position.  I’m the only one that > notices it, as my wife doesn’t weigh enough to make it move. > Like I said, it doesnt move much, but enough to be an annoyance…. > Have any of you heard of this?  I hate to bring the truck in, for them > to tell me ‘thats the way it is, live with it!’ > Thanks, Dave

Response:

Dave – same exact problem w/ my 02 Mountaineer!  I notice that if I come to a "fast" stop, the seat moves forward a fraction of an inch, and you can feel the thump at that point.  And I have the electric seats! My wife hasn’t noticed it yet – maybe doesn’t drive as hard as I do, and is certainly lighter. I think this IS a big problem – are others out there having it also?  If so, tell your dealer!  Ford has to be alerted. m

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I have a 2002 Limited.  About 1500 miles, and love it.  The only nit I > have to pick on it though is that the drivers seat seems to shift a > little back and forth on the adjusting rails.  Specifically, if I come > to a complete stop firmly, then accelerate away, I can feel the seat > move maybe an inch or so on the track.  In fact, the seat sets on 2 > rails for the forward adjustment, it feels like only the left rail is > the one moving.  Almost like that side of the seat isn’t locked into > place after adjusting the seat position.  I’m the only one that > notices it, as my wife doesn’t weigh enough to make it move. > Like I said, it doesnt move much, but enough to be an annoyance…. > Have any of you heard of this?  I hate to bring the truck in, for them > to tell me ‘thats the way it is, live with it!’ > Thanks, Dave

Response:

Add me to the list.  2002 XLT.  You can feel a definite shift of an 1/8 or 1/4 inch or so somewhere down there.

Response:

> Add me to the list.  2002 XLT.  You can feel a definite shift of an 1/8 or 1/4 > inch or so somewhere down there.

You all are probably more accurate.  It may seem like an inch, but more realistically, is like a 1/4 inch(sounds like something my wife would say about something else….hahaha). I’ll have to bring it in, and I assume that the passenger side has the same problem, I just don’t ride there very often. Dave

Response:

All, 8 months or so ago, I had appended an issue regarding the slight movement of the drivers seat forward and back.  Well, I finally brought the truck in for other maintenance, and had the dealer look at the seat.  Seems as though the ‘power seat transmission’ (their words) went bad, causing the 1/2" of movement of the seat at stop/start situations.  Was only an annoyance, but no the less a problem.  Just wanted to pass it along.  It was a 2-day fix, and I’ll return with the results when I get it back. Dave

Response:

Thanks for the FYI – I thought I felt something similar on a few occasions. At a stop or on take off from green light sometimes I feel slight movement. I have a 2002 EB and will take it into dealer. Thanks again

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> All, > 8 months or so ago, I had appended an issue regarding the slight > movement of the drivers seat forward and back.  Well, I finally > brought the truck in for other maintenance, and had the dealer look at > the seat.  Seems as though the ‘power seat transmission’ (their words) > went bad, causing the 1/2" of movement of the seat at stop/start > situations.  Was only an annoyance, but no the less a problem.  Just > wanted to pass it along.  It was a 2-day fix, and I’ll return with the > results when I get it back. > Dave

Response:

Question:

When I recently waxed my 2002 Explorer I accidentally got some wax on the plastic trim around the wheel wells and door trims. I’ve tried just about everything I can think of to remove it; Simple Green, 409, tar remover, etc., but it will not come off. I even had the local car wash folks try some of their "magic" cleaner and all it did was cover it up for a few days. Any solutions out there? Dave

Response:

Perhaps ammonia, which cuts wax (the reason not to use ammonia glass cleaners on the windshield and other glass, by the way). Be careful not to get it on anything else though PS: Did you wax in the door wheels and exposed surfaces inside the hatchback and under the hood? I also wax select underneath parts, though a very thin cost of Rust-O-leum black works nice on those if they rust Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

> When I recently waxed my 2002 Explorer I > accidentally got some wax on the plastic trim > around the wheel wells and door trims. I’ve > tried just about everything I can think of to > remove it; Simple Green, 409, tar remover, etc., > but it will not come off. I even had the local > car wash folks try some of their "magic" cleaner > and all it did was cover it up for a few days. > Any solutions out there? > Dave

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

You have two choices, both of which will work: 1) The old Peanut Butter trick – use smooth style peanut butter, wiper it over the waxed area with a terry cloth applicator, and then wash the vehicle. Should work. 3) Better yet: Meguiar’s Gold Class Trim Detailer – specifically says it will remove wax from trim like yours. Also, I dress all the plastic or vinyl trim with it BEFORE I wax, so anywhere I accidentally hit with wax won’t stain. Good Luck.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> When I recently waxed my 2002 Explorer I > accidentally got some wax on the plastic trim > around the wheel wells and door trims. I’ve > tried just about everything I can think of to > remove it; Simple Green, 409, tar remover, etc., > but it will not come off. I even had the local > car wash folks try some of their "magic" cleaner > and all it did was cover it up for a few days. > Any solutions out there? > Dave

Response:

I’ve found Mother’s Back to Black does a nice job when I nick my mirrors with the wax rag.  Too bad it doesn’t seem to work on the leather steering wheel (no idea how I got it there????) JH 95 EB – 169K miles Houghton, MI

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> When I recently waxed my 2002 Explorer I > accidentally got some wax on the plastic trim > around the wheel wells and door trims. I’ve > tried just about everything I can think of to > remove it; Simple Green, 409, tar remover, etc., > but it will not come off. I even had the local > car wash folks try some of their "magic" cleaner > and all it did was cover it up for a few days. > Any solutions out there? > Dave

Response:

Old timers say use peanut butter (I’m starting to be an old timer myself). If you don’t believe old timers then try "forever black" it comes with a wax remover concentrate and then a black dye in what looks like a shoe polish applicator. It works great. HTH Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> When I recently waxed my 2002 Explorer I > accidentally got some wax on the plastic trim > around the wheel wells and door trims. I’ve > tried just about everything I can think of to > remove it; Simple Green, 409, tar remover, etc., > but it will not come off. I even had the local > car wash folks try some of their "magic" cleaner > and all it did was cover it up for a few days. > Any solutions out there? > Dave

Response:

You also can try a stiff nylon-bristle brush. I’ve taken it off with that. Regards, Anthony Giorgianni

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Perhaps ammonia, which cuts wax (the reason not to use ammonia glass > cleaners on the windshield and other glass, by the way). Be careful not to > get it on anything else though > PS: Did you wax in the door wheels and exposed surfaces inside the hatchback > and under the hood? I also wax select underneath parts, though a very thin > cost of Rust-O-leum black works nice on those if they rust > Regards, > Anthony Giorgianni > When I recently waxed my 2002 Explorer I > accidentally got some wax on the plastic trim > around the wheel wells and door trims. I’ve > tried just about everything I can think of to > remove it; Simple Green, 409, tar remover, etc., > but it will not come off. I even had the local > car wash folks try some of their "magic" cleaner > and all it did was cover it up for a few days. > Any solutions out there? > Dave > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

It may look a little bad for now, but leave it alone and it will come off over time with regular washing. The only person who’ll notice is you. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > When I recently waxed my 2002 Explorer I > accidentally got some wax on the plastic trim > around the wheel wells and door trims. I’ve > tried just about everything I can think of to > remove it; Simple Green, 409, tar remover, etc., > but it will not come off. I even had the local > car wash folks try some of their "magic" cleaner > and all it did was cover it up for a few days. > Any solutions out there? > Dave

Response:

Have you tried some WD-40? I mean a lot of. D. J

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> When I recently waxed my 2002 Explorer I > accidentally got some wax on the plastic trim > around the wheel wells and door trims. I’ve > tried just about everything I can think of to > remove it; Simple Green, 409, tar remover, etc., > but it will not come off. I even had the local > car wash folks try some of their "magic" cleaner > and all it did was cover it up for a few days. > Any solutions out there? > Dave

Response:

Question:

Non folding steel version rated for 500# was available from WalMart for about $50.  AL version elsewhere ~$150.  Local truck store offered add on to make steel or AL version fold.  Don’t recall cost.  Sorry no info on make.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2002 Explorer 4X2 with V8 and the trailer towing package.  I am > looking for a hitch mounted cargo carrier that folds up and attaches to > the > two inch receiver.  Steel or aluminum? Brands? Covers? Suggestions? > I’m not familiar with any folding ones, but you can get a non-folding one > from Pep Boys or Autozone for around $60 to $70. > Regards, > James

Response:

Look at the JCWhitney web site.  Got a fold up model from them. Works great.  I cover with a matching black grill cover and stretch cords

: I have a 2002 Explorer 4X2 with V8 and the trailer towing package.  I am : looking for a hitch mounted cargo carrier that folds up and attaches to the : two inch receiver.  Steel or aluminum? Brands? Covers? Suggestions? : :

Response:

I have a 2002 Explorer 4X2 with V8 and the trailer towing package.  I am looking for a hitch mounted cargo carrier that folds up and attaches to the two inch receiver.  Steel or aluminum? Brands? Covers? Suggestions?

Response:

> I have a 2002 Explorer 4X2 with V8 and the trailer towing package.  I am > looking for a hitch mounted cargo carrier that folds up and attaches to the > two inch receiver.  Steel or aluminum? Brands? Covers? Suggestions?

I’m not familiar with any folding ones, but you can get a non-folding one from Pep Boys or Autozone for around $60 to $70. Regards, James

Response:

Question:

Has anyone else experienced this? I was going about 50 mph when I decided to lower the two rear windows. As soon as they got all the way down I heard a very loud oscillating air noise. I also felt the rear was shaking with the same rhythm as the noise. I thought I had a flat. I pulled over and did not see any problems. I also noticed that at around 30 mph the noise and vibration stopped. Once I got on the highway I raised the two rear windows and the noise and vibration stopped. I have found that if I open the sun roof or front windows the noise will go away. Does anyone have a fix for this? Mike from Massachusetts

Response:

Yep…. aerodynamics is aerodynamics…… only cure is to get rid of the air. Mah daddy allus sed "If’n it hurts – doan do it". — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Has anyone else experienced this? >I was going about 50 mph when I decided to lower the two rear windows. As >soon as they got all the way down I heard a very loud oscillating air noise. >I also felt the rear was shaking with the same rhythm as the noise. I >thought I had a flat. I pulled over and did not see any problems. >I also noticed that at around 30 mph the noise and vibration stopped. Once I >got on the highway I raised the two rear windows and the noise and vibration >stopped. >I have found that if I open the sun roof or front windows the noise will go >away. >Does anyone have a fix for this? > Air conditioning is what I use.  I don’t think there is a fix, it’s > just wind buffeting.  There is a remote possibility that a hood air > dam (bug deflector) would change the airflow enough to make a > difference (but the difference could be that it gets even worse).

Response:

It’s called "Harmonic Vibrations".  Actually what is happening is when your windows are open just that much you are making a tonal chamber of just the right pitch.  Change the chamber by varying how much the windows are down or by opening another window and you can eliminate or lessen it.  Try putting one window up a bit. In my 97 GMC suburban we get this from the back windows.  If I crack the passenger front window I get a whistle that goea away if I also crack the driver side – but the driver side alone doesn’t cause it.  go figure… Tim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Has anyone else experienced this? > I was going about 50 mph when I decided to lower the two rear windows. As > soon as they got all the way down I heard a very loud oscillating air noise. > I also felt the rear was shaking with the same rhythm as the noise. I > thought I had a flat. I pulled over and did not see any problems. > I also noticed that at around 30 mph the noise and vibration stopped. Once I > got on the highway I raised the two rear windows and the noise and vibration > stopped. > I have found that if I open the sun roof or front windows the noise will go > away. > Does anyone have a fix for this? > Mike from Massachusetts

Response:

Same principle as blowing across the top of an empty pop bottle! Pop bottle has less air…so the air inside vibrates faster and produces a higher frequency "sound."  Since there is a lot more air inside of your vehicle…you hear…or more accurately "feel" a lower frequency vibration (probably as low as 5-10 hz). 777 *** Some folks say 2 Hz worse than 1 ***

Response:

Thanks for all the explanations. All make sense to me. I was just surprised that the vehicle did that. I have never owned a car that did that before. Mike

Response:

> Thanks for all the explanations. > All make sense to me. I was just surprised that the vehicle did that. > I have never owned a car that did that before. > Mike

My mother had an old 73 Jaguar that did that.  We used to take it out, turn up the stereo and get up to speed on purpose just to get the effect.  To a bunch of 17 year olds it was great.

Response:

Question:

I am thinking about leasing a 2002 Explorer EB. I was curious what the residual value would be at the end of three years (or what the expected depreciation amount is). Can anybody out there share their opinions/experiences? Thanks

Response:

> am thinking about leasing a 2002 Explorer EB. I was curious what the >residual value would be at the end of three years

I thought that is part of the lease deal.

Response:

Best estimate would likely be to look at a comparable ‘99 model and see what has happened to the value.  Retail value is probably in the area of 50% of original list. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> am thinking about leasing a 2002 Explorer EB. I was curious what the >residual value would be at the end of three years >I thought that is part of the lease deal.

Response:

Question:

I just took delivery of a 2002 Limited. I was trying to get the outside temperature reading on the Info Center, but all it showed was the odometer reading and the trip mileage reading. Can someone tell me how to get the temperature reading? Pat

Response:

>I just took delivery of a 2002 Limited. >I was trying to get the outside temperature >reading on the Info Center, but all it showed >was the odometer reading and the trip mileage reading. >Can someone tell me how to get the temperature reading? >Pat

I test drove a 2002 Eddie Bauer a while ago but I’m sure they’re the same.  The outside temperature reading button is located on your air conditioning unit. There should be a button that said "Outside Temp."  Hope you’ll find it.   Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer

Response:

>I just took delivery of a 2002 Limited. >I was trying to get the outside temperature >reading on the Info Center, but all it showed >was the odometer reading and the trip mileage reading. >Can someone tell me how to get the temperature reading? >Pat

Just out of curiosity, doesn’t the owner’s manual cover this? – Bill Funk www.pippinf.com

Response:

Depends on the climate control system. A Eddie Bauer edition will have Dual Automatic Climate Control (DATC). The limited may be a manual system, and if it has an outside temp display, will not be related to the climate control system. >I just took delivery of a 2002 Limited. >I was trying to get the outside temperature >reading on the Info Center, but all it showed >was the odometer reading and the trip mileage reading. >Can someone tell me how to get the temperature reading? >Pat > I test drove a 2002 Eddie Bauer a while ago but I’m sure they’re the same.  The > outside temperature reading button is located on your air conditioning unit. > There should be a button that said "Outside Temp."  Hope you’ll find it. > Billy > ‘96 Eddie Bauer

– Friends don’t let freinds fish for bass. Check out the Pikemasters Mailing List at http://www.flash.net/~mushrat/pikemasters.htm

Response:

> I just took delivery of a 2002 Limited. > I was trying to get the outside temperature > reading on the Info Center, but all it showed > was the odometer reading and the trip mileage reading. > Can someone tell me how to get the temperature reading? > Pat

The outside temp is on the climate control panel, not on the message center.  I have a 2002 limited.  It is labeled EXT TEMP with a button to change between Celsius or Farenheit Dave

Response:

Dave, do you have the manual or dual auto climate system? I suspect you have the DATC, or automatic if your outside temp display is on the climate control panel, (DATC module). > I just took delivery of a 2002 Limited. > I was trying to get the outside temperature > reading on the Info Center, but all it showed > was the odometer reading and the trip mileage reading. > Can someone tell me how to get the temperature reading? > Pat > The outside temp is on the climate control panel, not on the message > center.  I have a 2002 limited.  It is labeled EXT TEMP with a button > to change between Celsius or Farenheit > Dave

– Friends don’t let freinds fish for bass. Check out the Pikemasters Mailing List at http://www.flash.net/~mushrat/pikemasters.htm

Response:

Thanks for all of your input. I have the auto climate system. There is a "ext" button, and the outside temp shows up when the button is pressed. I suspect that those without auto climate system, the outside temp may show up on the Message Center, like the manual says. Pat – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Dave, do you have the manual or dual auto climate system? I suspect you have the DATC, or automatic if > your outside temp display is on the climate control panel, (DATC module). > > I just took delivery of a 2002 Limited. > > I was trying to get the outside temperature > > reading on the Info Center, but all it showed > > was the odometer reading and the trip mileage reading. > > Can someone tell me how to get the temperature reading? > > Pat > The outside temp is on the climate control panel, not on the message > center.  I have a 2002 limited.  It is labeled EXT TEMP with a button > to change between Celsius or Farenheit > Dave

Response:

Question:

Hi folks,   My ‘96 Explorer has survived a winter in salty Cincinnati and another five in the less corrosive area of Flagstaff AZ. Now that it’s over 5 years old and has 97k miles on it, when can I expect to be due for an exhaust system replacement?   I have to admit that I’m amazed at how well cars hold up these days with lengthy periods between so much of the service. I not only have the original muffler system but am still on my original front brake pads. — Craig Williams http://wpyr.netfirms.com

Response:

PS–My Explorer is also stick shift. Another question is "when should I expect my original clutch to need replacing?" — Craig Williams http://wpyr.netfirms.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi folks, >   My ‘96 Explorer has survived a winter in salty Cincinnati and another five > in the less corrosive area of Flagstaff AZ. Now that it’s over 5 years old > and has 97k miles on it, when can I expect to be due for an exhaust system > replacement? >   I have to admit that I’m amazed at how well cars hold up these days with > lengthy periods between so much of the service. I not only have the original > muffler system but am still on my original front brake pads. > — > Craig Williams > http://wpyr.netfirms.com

Response:

Only exhaust part replaced on my 92 was the resonator and tail pipe. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >PS–My Explorer is also stick shift. Another question is "when should I >expect my original clutch to need replacing?"

Response:

> Hi folks, >   My ‘96 Explorer has survived a winter in salty Cincinnati and another five > in the less corrosive area of Flagstaff AZ. Now that it’s over 5 years old > and has 97k miles on it, when can I expect to be due for an exhaust system > replacement? >   I have to admit that I’m amazed at how well cars hold up these days with > lengthy periods between so much of the service. I not only have the original > muffler system but am still on my original front brake pads.

A weld between the muffler and resonator broke on my ‘92 Sport just a couple of months ago with about 130K on it. The weld at the input of the muffler was also showing signs that it was about to go, so I replaced the muffler and pipes from the catalytic converter back. The new muffler is a Magna-Flow (very nice) and I didn’t bother to replace the resonator. My clutch gave up the ghost last year, at about 115K miles. I have replaced my front brake pads 3 times. The rear brake shoes and drums were replaced a few months ago for the first time. Apparently the shoes were harder than the drums, there was still a little material left on them, but the drums were worn to the tolerance limit, despite never having been turned. — Dan Driscoll 1992 Sport 4.0L 4×4

Response:

> Is there much difference in the loudness or tone of the new muffler > you have compared to the original setup?

The Magna-Flow is a performance muffler, so yes, there is a noticeable difference in both tone and loudness. The new sound is lower and louder, a little like the rumbling sound of the old, big block V8’s. FWIW, mine is definitely not as loud as a ‘94 XLT  down the street with basically the same engine. I asked and he told me he had a Flow Master on his. Performance is also improved over the stock muffler, especially when accelerating. It isn’t a sports car, but there is definitely more pick-up there than before. It is most noticeable on freeway on-ramps and when passing. There has also been a slight improvement in gas mileage, but I emphasis slight, maybe 10-20 miles per tank. — Dan Driscoll 1992 Sport 4.0L 4×4

Response:

130K miles on my ‘94. In the Northeast. Factory exhaust. Mike

Response:

180,000 Kilometer’s on my "92" still the original equipment !

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi folks, >   My ‘96 Explorer has survived a winter in salty Cincinnati and another five > in the less corrosive area of Flagstaff AZ. Now that it’s over 5 years old > and has 97k miles on it, when can I expect to be due for an exhaust system > replacement? >   I have to admit that I’m amazed at how well cars hold up these days with > lengthy periods between so much of the service. I not only have the original > muffler system but am still on my original front brake pads. > — > Craig Williams > http://wpyr.netfirms.com

Response:

I just sold an 87 Mustang GT.  Had 130K miles.  Original exhaust, original clutch.  The muffler was just beginning to get a few tiny holes in it.  I can only hope this 2002 Explorer holds up as well.

Response:

131K Miles on my 95 Explorer Factory Exhaust. Seems to me on these explorers from 91-96;   Only thing needing replacement are brakes, shocks, tires, plugs, wires  and of course the tranny.   Everything else seems to last forever (at least from what ive read on this b board) Erik

Response:

>131K Miles on my 95 Explorer >Factory Exhaust. >Seems to me on these explorers from 91-96;   >Only thing needing replacement are brakes, shocks, tires, plugs, wires  and of >course the tranny.   >Everything else seems to last forever

Radiator and AC condensor get added to the list. On our ‘92 Sport, the stock exhaust is still going strong. >(at least from what ive read on this b board) >Erik

- Bill Funk www.pippinf.com

Response:

Question:

I am planning to buy a 2002 explorer limited with the 3rd row seat option. I want to find out if the auxillary ac/heater is necessary. I am afraid that the standard ac may not cool or warm the back adequately. Would anyone have an opinion about the auxillary/ac/heater? Thanks Pat Cheung

Response:

It’s worth getting even without the third seat option.  Just to keep the kids from fussing.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am planning to buy a 2002 explorer limited with the 3rd row seat option. > I want to find out if the auxillary ac/heater is necessary. I am afraid > that the standard ac may not cool or warm the back adequately. Would anyone > have an opinion about the auxillary/ac/heater? > Thanks > Pat Cheung

Response:

>I am planning to buy a 2002 explorer limited with the 3rd row seat option. >I want to find out if the auxillary ac/heater is necessary. I am afraid >that the standard ac may not cool or warm the back adequately. Would anyone >have an opinion about the auxillary/ac/heater?

If you put people in the 3rd row, it’s sadistic enough. If you put them back there w/o the aux system, I would call you Lucifer himself. Remember, that back area has 3 large windows, so it would be like sitting up front with no a/c or heat. Contact: corpsie.com/contact/mail.html

Response:

> I am planning to buy a 2002 explorer limited with the 3rd row seat option. > I want to find out if the auxillary ac/heater is necessary. I am afraid > that the standard ac may not cool or warm the back adequately. Would anyone > have an opinion about the auxillary/ac/heater?

After 7 months and 10k miles with my 3rd row seat, rear AC equipped ‘02 XLT, I can say that the rear AC option is very nice and very effective.  I’ve had 7 people in the vehicle on a number of occasions during the summer and everyone liked the individual overhead vents and additional air conditioning capacity. I think it’s well worth the additional cost. Dave

Response:

Question:

Hey people, Just an update on a previous post of mine.  Took in my 2002 Explorer XLS on the 17th of Dec for the following problems:  - Rough shifting transmission  - U-joints going out from the hard/rough shifting  - rattling/vibration being felt through steering wheel (feels    like front end is falling apart)  - gas struts that hold and raise rear glass hatch, constantly    popping out. Got a call from the service dept today. Dealer had to order complete set of bearings for front end as well as balljoints. Apparantly this was causing the rattling. Transmission has been reprogramed. U-joints have been replaced and they say they have fixed the rear glass strut attachments…we’ll see about that one. Anyway will be another week before I get my Explorer back. Hope this helps any other 2002 Explorer owners as I have heard of quite a few complaints about the vibrating/rattling through the steering wheel/column on these models. Aloha, Scott

Response:

here it is again…somebody removed it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hey people, > Just an update on a previous post of mine.  Took in my 2002 Explorer XLS on > the 17th of Dec for the following problems: >  - Rough shifting transmission >  - U-joints going out from the hard/rough shifting >  - rattling/vibration being felt through steering wheel (feels >    like front end is falling apart) >  - gas struts that hold and raise rear glass hatch, constantly >    popping out. > Got a call from the service dept today. Dealer had to order complete set of > bearings for front end as well as balljoints. Apparantly this was causing > the rattling. > Transmission has been reprogramed. U-joints have been replaced and they say > they have fixed the rear glass strut attachments…we’ll see about that one. > Anyway will be another week before I get my Explorer back. Hope this helps > any other 2002 Explorer owners as I have heard of quite a few complaints > about the vibrating/rattling through the steering wheel/column on these > models. > Aloha, Scott

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Question:

Why do you say the power being on all the time is bad for cell phone batteries the charger is either at such a slow rate that it won’t overcharge or if it is a fast charger then the batteries or the phone or the charger is smart enough to either shut off to slow down to a slow charge -Justin – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 1) Does anyone know where the diagnostic port (plug in) is located on the > 2002 Explorer?  I found a plug under a hole in the console (under the rubber > mat containing the pencil holder) . Is this the diagnostic port or is for > some other optional accessory? > 2) I am looking for a power takeoff for my cell phone that will shut off > when the ignition shuts down.  The two powerpoints located on the console > stay powered even when the igntion is shut off.  This is not good for cell > phone batteries. > Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Response:

Do you mean the one to connect a OBDII reader into?  If so, it should be located towards the bottom of the dash, below the steering wheel, probably behind a snap-out plastic cover.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1) Does anyone know where the diagnostic port (plug in) is located on the > 2002 Explorer?  I found a plug under a hole in the console (under the rubber > mat containing the pencil holder) . Is this the diagnostic port or is for > some other optional accessory? > 2) I am looking for a power takeoff for my cell phone that will shut off > when the ignition shuts down.  The two powerpoints located on the console > stay powered even when the igntion is shut off.  This is not good for cell > phone batteries. > Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Response:

1) Does anyone know where the diagnostic port (plug in) is located on the 2002 Explorer?  I found a plug under a hole in the console (under the rubber mat containing the pencil holder) . Is this the diagnostic port or is for some other optional accessory? 2) I am looking for a power takeoff for my cell phone that will shut off when the ignition shuts down.  The two powerpoints located on the console stay powered even when the igntion is shut off.  This is not good for cell phone batteries. Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

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