I have a 2000 Explorer 4L V-6 SOHC.  I really do not know much about cars but figure i could handle this one with a little help.  I bought the car from a private party and it sat for 3 months is that helps any. thanks

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Do you hear  pump come on? If you do you might have clogged ports on the hood. You can clean them. If you don’t hear anything, you might have some bad contacts in the switch on the turn lever stalk. Try pushing it in a few times to clear any corrosion it might have. There was a recall for the turn lever/wiper switch being defective. Also check the fuse. One more thing you can do to verify the pump is good is to jump it out with 12v going to it directly.

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I’m about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months.  I know I need to disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel.  I have some more questions. 1.  Is there an oil additive to help prevent the oil from 100% draining into the oil pan?  The objective is to keep things lubricated. 2.  If I can’t put it up on blocks or jack stands, how much air pressure should I put in the tires?  I like to keep them at 30 – 31 pounds of pressure. Is there anything else I should do?

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If the car is not being totally mothballed (that is to say if it is garaged or covered and you are not leaving town) you are just as far ahead to have it up on blocks and about once a month, start it up and run it to operating temp. After the engine is up to temp, "exercise" everything to distribute lubricants and such. Even better is to just drive it around the block. If you are leaving the area, up on blocks is the better recommendation though three months isn’t what you would call extended storage. Remove the plugs and pour a small amount of oil in each cylinder (maybe 1 or 2 tablespoons) and turn the motor over remembering to hang rags over the holes… reinstall the plugs. Of course, you would have change the motor oil before this step. When you return the motor to service, remove the fuel pump relay and crank the motor until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Your chosen tire pressure should be adequate. Bear in mind where the car is being stored… if there are mice or other vermin, be sure they haven’t taken up residence in the aircleaner or where-ever.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months.  I know I need to > disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel.  I have some more > questions. > 1.  Is there an oil additive to help prevent the oil from 100% draining into > the oil pan?  The objective is to keep things lubricated. > 2.  If I can’t put it up on blocks or jack stands, how much air pressure > should I put in the tires?  I like to keep them at 30 – 31 pounds of pressure. > Is there anything else I should do?

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Battery maintainer?  Better idea – simply disconnect one battery cable. I routinely store my 98 Ford Ranger for 6 months at a time in my gararge in Maine.  Still has the OEM battery.  Among other steps, I disconnect one of the battery cables as part of the routine.  By doing so, I disconnect all the phantom loads, such as the radio preset memory and the engine computer – which are what discharges the battery.  When I return in six months, I simply reconnect that battery, and it starts right up.  I haven’t yet had to boost it. By contrast, a cheap battery maintainer can overcharge the battery – which is not a good thing. Bill Jeffrey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I use a ‘battery maintainer’ to keep the battery peaked.  The battery stays > in the car year-round. > Not sure if you’ll need a ‘battery maintainer’ for 3 months storage, but > you’ll probably need to charge the battery when you go to start the car > after that storage.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >If the car is not being totally mothballed (that is to say if it is garaged >or covered and you are not leaving town) you are just as far ahead to have >it up on blocks and about once a month, start it up and run it to operating >temp. After the engine is up to temp, "exercise" everything to distribute >lubricants and such. Even better is to just drive it around the block. >If you are leaving the area, up on blocks is the better recommendation >though three months isn’t what you would call extended storage. Remove the >plugs and pour a small amount of oil in each cylinder (maybe 1 or 2 >tablespoons) and turn the motor over remembering to hang rags over the >holes… reinstall the plugs. Of course, you would have change the motor oil >before this step. When you return the motor to service, remove the fuel pump >relay and crank the motor until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Your chosen >tire pressure should be adequate. >Bear in mind where the car is being stored… if there are mice or other >vermin, be sure they haven’t taken up residence in the aircleaner or >where-ever. > I’m about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months.  I know I need >to > disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel.  I have some more > questions. > 1.  Is there an oil additive to help prevent the oil from 100% draining >into > the oil pan?  The objective is to keep things lubricated. > 2.  If I can’t put it up on blocks or jack stands, how much air pressure > should I put in the tires?  I like to keep them at 30 – 31 pounds of >pressure. > Is there anything else I should do?

The vehicle could be stored anywhere from 2.5 months to 8 months.  I just don’t know yet how long.  We are definitely leaving town and it will be stored outside. No one will be available to start it.

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> Battery maintainer?  Better idea – simply disconnect one battery cable. > I routinely store my 98 Ford Ranger for 6 months at a time in my gararge > in Maine.  Still has the OEM battery.  Among other steps, I disconnect > one of the battery cables as part of the routine.  By doing so, I > disconnect all the phantom loads, such as the radio preset memory and > the engine computer – which are what discharges the battery.  When I > return in six months, I simply reconnect that battery, and it starts > right up.  I haven’t yet had to boost it. > By contrast, a cheap battery maintainer can overcharge the battery – > which is not a good thing. > Bill Jeffrey

A battery maintainer won’t overcharge a battery. It will only maintain a battery at the state of charge present when hooked up. Hence the name. Since the vehicle will be stored outdoors, unhooking or removing the battery would probably be best. H

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I have a 2000 Explorer.  I’d like to install a 12 volt power outlet near the far rear, similar to a cigarette lighter outlet.  Is there already a source of 12 volts in that area, not dependent on lights or rear wiper being on?  Any ideas appreciated. — CWLee Former slayer of dragons; practice now limited to sacred cows.  Believing we should hire for quality, not quotas, and promote for performance, not preferences.

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Laptop is at work so I don’t have diagrams handy… if you have trailer package, there should be a "hot in run" at the very least for charging the trailer battery. For a hot at all times, there is probably a relay in the battery junction box that can be removed and a shorting device installed (remember to replace the relay if you pull a trailer with an on board battery).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2000 Explorer.  I’d like to install a 12 volt power > outlet near the far rear, similar to a cigarette lighter > outlet.  Is there already a source of 12 volts in that area, > not dependent on lights or rear wiper being on?  Any ideas > appreciated. > — > CWLee > Former slayer of dragons; practice now limited to sacred > cows.  Believing we should hire for quality, not quotas, and > promote for performance, not preferences.

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I’ve got the 6 disc with RDS on my 2002 EB.  Anyone else notice the RDS is basically worthless?  It will give you the song name and artist if the station provides it.  But when the next song comes on it doesn’t update the information until you referesh the display by changing the volume or hitting some other button.  I have been in Dodges and GM’s that know how to update.  What is the story with Ford RDS?? "Stay away from the star destroyer, but don’t look like your staying away from it." "AARRFF!" "I don’t know, fly casual" Jason Wiseman WWW home page: http://www.eecs.uic.edu/~jwisem/welcome.html

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> I’ve got the 6 disc with RDS on my 2002 EB.  Anyone else notice the RDS is > basically worthless?  It will give you the song name and artist if the station > provides it.  But when the next song comes on it doesn’t update the information > until you referesh the display by changing the volume or hitting some other > button.  I have been in Dodges and GM’s that know how to update.  What is the > story with Ford RDS??

I have the radio with RDS and a single Disc player. The RDS works just fine, not many stations here in Southern Calif using it, but it works well on the ones that have it, also in Las Vegas, Nv.

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Yup, I noticed it the other day when my son was here.  Annoying, isn’t it?  Fortunately I don’t have much use for the RDS anyway … Bill Jeffrey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve got the 6 disc with RDS on my 2002 EB.  Anyone else notice the RDS is > basically worthless?  It will give you the song name and artist if the station > provides it.  But when the next song comes on it doesn’t update the information > until you referesh the display by changing the volume or hitting some other > button.  I have been in Dodges and GM’s that know how to update.  What is the > story with Ford RDS??

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Check engine light – sets code: lean burn – bank #2 02 sensor — only when <-10 degrees clear code and runs fine. Which sensor needs changed?

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Please post the exact code and any symptoms noted when the concern happens. This is NOT magic and can be a complicated endeavour. Engine size and such might help too… Mechanical failures can and will set the CEL as well. As can cell phones, bad alternators, other electronic devices, radio waves, high voltage interference – ad infinitum. The only thing more complicated than the modern auto is the space shuttle. I doubt that your problem is as simple as changing a sensor.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Check engine light – sets code: > lean burn – bank #2 > 02 sensor > — > only when <-10 degrees > clear code and runs fine. > Which sensor needs changed?

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A grease needle can be had for a couple of bucks at most part stores.  It fits on to the end of a standard grease gun.  This will allow you to grease your ball joints through the rubber boot.  Worth of shot before shelling out $$ for new parts.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought > something needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease > fittings; replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. > Steers and rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

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Had to replace ball joints in my 99 last year with only 53k on the clock. Looks like I’m not the only one that has run into this.  IIRC, the uppers have to be change with the entire control arm, the lowers do not.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought > something needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease > fittings; replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. > Steers and rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

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For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought something needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease fittings; replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. Steers and rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

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Unfortunately they are correct. for some reason Ford decided to use RSB ball joints and they wear out very fast. I have already changed mine too. Searcher1

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought > something needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease > fittings; replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. > Steers and rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

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Seems like low miles for ball joints (but may differ according to your demographics)….. I probably find more squeaking sway bar bushings than squeaking ball joints. Much cheaper, but not a sure sure, would be to remove the sway bar bushings and clean them in rubbing alcohol…. after they air dry, coat the inner diameter with dielectric grease (the same stuff used on brake caliper slides).  and reinstall. I usually coat the ID of new bushing with this stuff at the time of installation.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For last month had loud sqeeking sound from right front.  Thought something > needed greasing so took it in to dealer.  They say no grease fittings; > replace upper and lower control arms(??) . Veh has 58000 miles. Steers and > rides good.  Is this reasonable?  Thanks

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Thanks, The next day when I cranked it up,  the light was off and has been off ever since. We had a lot of snow and ice here. Could that have caused the problem? Mark McCoy www.mccoysmarket.com

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Which sensor is the ABS sensor?? Sounds like you had a problem with a wheel speed sensor….. These systems aren’t as simple as you thimk they are. If they were, I’d be out of a job…. Not you in particular, but it amuses me to look at an electronics ‘experts’ VCR and see that it is always "12 o’clock – 12 o’clock – 12 o’cloc…"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> possibly your ABS sensor, I had a problem with mine where the wire broke in > the wheel well. > Searcher1 > Tonight my ABS light came on. It’s a 2002 Explorer 2wd with about 52,000 > miles > on it. Any ideas what may be the problem? The brakes seem to be working > normal.

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possibly your ABS sensor, I had a problem with mine where the wire broke in the wheel well. Searcher1

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tonight my ABS light came on. It’s a 2002 Explorer 2wd with about 52,000 > miles > on it. Any ideas what may be the problem? The brakes seem to be working > normal.

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Before you panic, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Next try washing out the area of the front wheel hubs with a high pressure washer. Then check the rear sensor (in the rear axle). Diconnect it and check for continuity. Regards, Ed White

> Tonight my ABS light came on. It’s a 2002 Explorer 2wd with about 52,000 miles > on it. Any ideas what may be the problem? The brakes seem to be working

normal.

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Tonight my ABS light came on. It’s a 2002 Explorer 2wd with about 52,000 miles on it. Any ideas what may be the problem? The brakes seem to be working normal.

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Any ideas on why my auto trans won’t downshift to 1st gear when manually placed into 1st gear.  It will limit itself to first gear only when accelerating in 1st gear but it won’t allow engine breaking to decelerate on decents. It seams like it is in neutral when no gas is applied, allow it to coast and even pick speed on a steep decent.  Problem only occurs after the engine has warmed up.  2nd gear functionality works fine including engine breaking. Vehicle is a 4×4 with Auto/Hi/Lo transfer case and a 4.1 LS diff. Thanks,  Jeff

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Straight from the 2000 WSM for the 5R55E transmission…. "If this position is selected at normal road speeds, the transmission will shift into third gear, then into first when the vehicle reaches a speed below approximately 48 km/h (30 mph)." As far as no engine braking… are there any other symptoms or concerns? Has the TCM been scanned for codes (this will require something a bit upscale from a dimestore scan tool)? Is the concern founded in fact or in perception?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any ideas on why my auto trans won’t downshift to 1st gear when manually > placed into 1st gear.  It will limit itself to first gear only when > accelerating in 1st gear but it won’t allow engine breaking to decelerate > on decents. It seams like it is in neutral when no gas is applied, allow > it to coast and even pick speed on a steep decent.  Problem only occurs > after the engine has warmed up.  2nd gear functionality works fine > including engine breaking. Vehicle is a 4×4 with Auto/Hi/Lo transfer case > and a 4.1 LS diff. > Thanks,  Jeff

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Thanks for your response to my question!!  When the trans is manually placed into 1st it never indicates when it does drop into first.  I expect the RPM to rise quickly when it does eventually drop into 1st.  The problem occurs when deceleration or when decending a hill.  The RPM just sits at idle until I give it the gas to start an acceleration. No other symptoms. Again – it works fine when its cold but promptly begins to fail when normal running temperature is reached.

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>Thanks for your response to my question!!  When the trans is manually >placed into 1st it never indicates when it does drop into first.  I expect >the RPM to rise quickly when it does eventually drop into 1st.  The problem >occurs when deceleration or when decending a hill.  The RPM just sits at >idle until I give it the gas to start an acceleration. No other symptoms. >Again – it works fine when its cold but promptly begins to fail when normal >running temperature is reached.

It seems to me that there was a TSB on this or a similar problem a couple years ago.  It was a problem in the valve body and was being fixed under warranty.  There was definitely something posted on it, try a google search in this newsgroup. — Elbridge Gerry, of Massachusetts: "What, sir, is the use of militia?  It is to prevent the establishment of a standing army, the bane of liberty.  . . Whenever Government means to invade the rights and liberties of the people, they always attempt to destroy the militia, in order to raise a standing army upon its ruins."  – Debate, U.S.  House of Representatives, August 17, 1789  

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Hmmm… I just replaced my blower motor today and it had a mouse nest within the squirrel cage fan.  I wonder how the heck in got in there?  A few days ago I opened the hood and there was a big rat sitting in his/her nest on top of my battery.  I’d been driving the truck every day.

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>the vents, especially the defrost vents in the dsah. > I can only suppose that a mouse got into the sytem somehow,

This happened to my 2002 when I was parked up at summer camp. I ended up with a nest inside my HVAC squirrel cage and one in the air cleaner box.  LUckily no dead mice.  Mine also started shooting little bits of dried out leaves and grass out the defroster vents.  The guy at quicklane was pretty amazed when he went to check the air filter.

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Good lord! That might be my problem! My wife saw baby field mice in our garage on night.

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That’s not a mouse — that’s one of the hamsters that was making your Exploder go…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My 2002 Explorer was strored for a few months in a garage that had a > mouse problem. > When I started driving it again I got a bad smell out of the > ventilation system. After about 6 months it subsided biut recentlt I > get a bit of dry debris including what seems to be whiskers coming from > the vents, especially the defrost vents in the dsah. > I can only suppose that a mouse got into the sytem somehow, died and is > now mummified. Where is the air intake for the vent system located? Is > there some sort of filter or screen that would have prevented the > culprit from getting too far into the system? > Any suggestions? > Thanks, Rob

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My 2002 Explorer was strored for a few months in a garage that had a mouse problem. When I started driving it again I got a bad smell out of the ventilation system. After about 6 months it subsided biut recentlt I get a bit of dry debris including what seems to be whiskers coming from the vents, especially the defrost vents in the dsah. I can only suppose that a mouse got into the sytem somehow, died and is now mummified. Where is the air intake for the vent system located? Is there some sort of filter or screen that would have prevented the culprit from getting too far into the system? Any suggestions? Thanks, Rob

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Hamsters?  I thought they ran on squirrels.  I was sure one of the squirrels died and that was what was rattling inside my engine. Maybe it’s the V8 that has squirrels…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> That’s not a mouse — that’s one of the hamsters that was making your Exploder > go…. > My 2002 Explorer was strored for a few months in a garage that had a > mouse problem. > When I started driving it again I got a bad smell out of the > ventilation system. After about 6 months it subsided biut recentlt I > get a bit of dry debris including what seems to be whiskers coming from > the vents, especially the defrost vents in the dsah. > I can only suppose that a mouse got into the sytem somehow, died and is > now mummified. Where is the air intake for the vent system located? Is > there some sort of filter or screen that would have prevented the > culprit from getting too far into the system? > Any suggestions? > Thanks, Rob

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 2002 Explorer was strored for a few months in a garage that had a > mouse problem. > When I started driving it again I got a bad smell out of the > ventilation system. After about 6 months it subsided biut recentlt I > get a bit of dry debris including what seems to be whiskers coming from > the vents, especially the defrost vents in the dsah. > I can only suppose that a mouse got into the sytem somehow, died and is > now mummified. Where is the air intake for the vent system located? Is > there some sort of filter or screen that would have prevented the > culprit from getting too far into the system? > Any suggestions? > Thanks, Rob

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Greetings!! Have one of the new design ‘02 Explorers.  Just passing 37k on our V-6 Limited that have been basically trouble free miles (except, of course, for the new rear end and hopefully someday a new hatch on the back). Was wondering what kinds of issues are cropping up for those of you who have put far more miles on the new design (that is, post-02) Explorers? In particular, I’m wondering about when to plan for replacements for things such as shocks, brakes, and so on.  To be honest, except for an impending set of tires, the other maintenance-type items seem to be acting just like they have since new.  (Mostly easy in town driving, etc., for us.) Thanks in advance. Ken

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I am at 30,000 on my ‘03 Mountaineer and thought the same thing as you…that this SEEMS to be a bullet-proof vehicle (versus my 1999 Explorer which felt like it spent more time at the dealer than on the road). And, also like you, the only REAL problem I am having is the rear window hatch, now waiting for the new redesigned parts.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Greetings!! > Have one of the new design ‘02 Explorers.  Just passing 37k on our V-6 > Limited that have been basically trouble free miles (except, of course, > for the new rear end and hopefully someday a new hatch on the back). Was > wondering what kinds of issues are cropping up for those of you who have > put far more miles on the new design (that is, post-02) Explorers? > In particular, I’m wondering about when to plan for replacements for > things such as shocks, brakes, and so on.  To be honest, except for an > impending set of tires, the other maintenance-type items seem to be acting > just like they have since new.  (Mostly easy in town driving, etc., for > us.) > Thanks in advance. > Ken

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Tires at 37K?  I just replaced the OEM Michelins on my ‘02 V-8 XLT, as the vehicle passed 80K.  I could have gotten anotgher 10K legal miles out of them – i.e., the tread had enough depth – but we were leaving on a cross-country trip towing a trailer, and wanted to be sure there were no on-the-road problems. I had the brakes done at about 60K.  The OEM battery is dying – a bit soon, I would have thought.  Rear end was replaced at 35K and needed it again at 40K (haven’t done it).  I’m not thrilled with the transmission when towing, though it is fine without a trailer.  Other than that, it’s been a pretty good vehicle. What tires were on your Explorer when you bought it? Bill Jeffrey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Greetings!! > Have one of the new design ‘02 Explorers.  Just passing 37k on our V-6 > Limited that have been basically trouble free miles (except, of course, > for the new rear end and hopefully someday a new hatch on the back). Was > wondering what kinds of issues are cropping up for those of you who have > put far more miles on the new design (that is, post-02) Explorers? > In particular, I’m wondering about when to plan for replacements for > things such as shocks, brakes, and so on.  To be honest, except for an > impending set of tires, the other maintenance-type items seem to be > acting just like they have since new.  (Mostly easy in town driving, > etc., for us.) > Thanks in advance. > Ken

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80K on tires? That would NEVER EVER happen here in Pittsburgh. I got 25K out of the OEM Goodrich tires which the dealer said is about average. Had to do all 4 brakes at 25K too…again, is about average in up and down Pittsburgh driving.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tires at 37K?  I just replaced the OEM Michelins on my ‘02 V-8 XLT, as the > vehicle passed 80K.  I could have gotten anotgher 10K legal miles out of > them – i.e., the tread had enough depth – but we were leaving on a > cross-country trip towing a trailer, and wanted to be sure there were no > on-the-road problems. > I had the brakes done at about 60K.  The OEM battery is dying – a bit > soon, I would have thought.  Rear end was replaced at 35K and needed it > again at 40K (haven’t done it).  I’m not thrilled with the transmission > when towing, though it is fine without a trailer.  Other than that, it’s > been a pretty good vehicle. > What tires were on your Explorer when you bought it? > Bill Jeffrey > Greetings!! > Have one of the new design ‘02 Explorers.  Just passing 37k on our V-6 > Limited that have been basically trouble free miles (except, of course, > for the new rear end and hopefully someday a new hatch on the back). Was > wondering what kinds of issues are cropping up for those of you who have > put far more miles on the new design (that is, post-02) Explorers? > In particular, I’m wondering about when to plan for replacements for > things such as shocks, brakes, and so on.  To be honest, except for an > impending set of tires, the other maintenance-type items seem to be > acting just like they have since new.  (Mostly easy in town driving, > etc., for us.) > Thanks in advance. > Ken

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Bill I have the Goodyear Wranglers. They are actually OK (tread wise), but we do a lot of driving in the winter in the mountains plus deal with a lot of rain and I’d rather be safe than sorry.  There’s probably 10-15k more miles before they are illegal. I’m not complaining. Thanks for your input, especially since you tow and probably put a bit more strain on things than we do. Cheers!! Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Tires at 37K?  I just replaced the OEM Michelins on my ‘02 V-8 XLT, as > the vehicle passed 80K.  I could have gotten anotgher 10K legal miles > out of them – i.e., the tread had enough depth – but we were leaving on > a cross-country trip towing a trailer, and wanted to be sure there were > no on-the-road problems. > I had the brakes done at about 60K.  The OEM battery is dying – a bit > soon, I would have thought.  Rear end was replaced at 35K and needed it > again at 40K (haven’t done it).  I’m not thrilled with the transmission > when towing, though it is fine without a trailer.  Other than that, it’s > been a pretty good vehicle. > What tires were on your Explorer when you bought it? > Bill Jeffrey > Greetings!! > Have one of the new design ‘02 Explorers.  Just passing 37k on our V-6 > Limited that have been basically trouble free miles (except, of > course, for the new rear end and hopefully someday a new hatch on the > back). Was wondering what kinds of issues are cropping up for those of > you who have put far more miles on the new design (that is, post-02) > Explorers? > In particular, I’m wondering about when to plan for replacements for > things such as shocks, brakes, and so on.  To be honest, except for an > impending set of tires, the other maintenance-type items seem to be > acting just like they have since new.  (Mostly easy in town driving, > etc., for us.) > Thanks in advance. > Ken

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