Question:

> You should be proud. Plez.. Be proud driving American car. I hope you are > very happy man. > Good Lord. Do you understand that I think it’s outrageous paying a > dealer mech a 150 bucks to pop a stupid plastic part back into place

Hold on there Thomas, Phil is a troll, you just gave him a hard-on by reacting.  Now he is a very happy man. > BTW, one other thing about this car: It’s had 4 complete brake jobs in > under 20,000 miles. The dealer has done the last two gratis and as much > as admitted this particular car has some problem they can’t figure out. > Ina ddition, a mechanic confided to me that they don’t even have the > proper equipment to align it after a brake job because of the > "non-standard" tire size on the 300m Special. > Can you say "Lemon Law?" I knew you could.

Sounds to me like your dealer service department is run by a bunch of money-grubbing skinflints.  They probably don’t pay a decent mechanics salary and so the mechanics that work there are the bottom of the barrel. Most likely what is going on is the dealer service department is just using the softest pads they can find – probably not even rated for the vehicle – figuring that they are going to wear out fast that the people will come back often. So far it seems your dealer’s service department does the following: 1) Charges ridiculously high amounts for simple procedures that others would do for nothing or for very little. 2) Admits they are incompetent in being able to figure out a simple brake problem 3) suggest procedures like an alignment that has nothing to do with the problem your taking it in for. 4) Does not purchase appropriate equipment for servicing your vehicle, no doubt in violation of their contract with Chrysler. So, please explain again why your blaming the manufacturer? Ted

Response:

Since when does one need to do a front end alignment after a brake job. As far a having a "non-standard" tire size, can’t be that "non-standard".  TireRack.com lists 31 different 245/45R18 tires for the ‘02 and ‘03 300MSpec.  Sounds more like the dealer just don’t want to pony up for the adapter, most likely because most 300M’s are of the "standard" variety, with 225/55R17 tires. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Ina ddition, a mechanic confided to me that they don’t even have the > proper equipment to align it after a brake job because of the > "non-standard" tire size on the 300m Special.

Response:

I have a 99 plain 300M.  Best car I’ve ever own including my 2001 Avalon which is a rattle box.  Sorry you are having trouble with yours but problems with the 300M are uncommon.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > (snip) > What is your problem? Your body  mech did solve your problem. You should be > happy with it. > So what about  paying him $150 for a 5 minutes job ? You just supported the > American worker. > You should be proud. Plez.. Be proud driving American car. I hope you are > very happy man. > Good Lord. Do you understand that I think it’s outrageous paying a > dealer mech a 150 bucks to pop a stupid plastic part back into place > that I can probably now do myself armed with a couple tips another > person (thank you, Mr Putney) who replied to this thread gave me? If > your attidtude is pay whatever someone asks for a service without > looking for a better deal, I got a bridge I wanna sell you. > BTW, one other thing about this car: It’s had 4 complete brake jobs in > under 20,000 miles. The dealer has done the last two gratis and as much > as admitted this particular car has some problem they can’t figure out. > Ina ddition, a mechanic confided to me that they don’t even have the > proper equipment to align it after a brake job because of the > "non-standard" tire size on the 300m Special. > Can you say "Lemon Law?" I knew you could. > After dealing with all sorts of bullshit with a 2001 Ford Explorer and > now this beast from Chrysler, I’ll never by another American car again. > T.B.

Response:

> 2001 300M Special parked it too close to curbs popped out the > driver’s side of the plastic front end "Air Dam"

That’s the problem with the ground-effects options that Chrysler had to resort to to make the special "special". As it is, the dam on my regular 300M barely clears most curb stones that I encounter.  In fact the underside of it is being slowly scraped away by running over them.  I’ve thought about removing it completey (anyone do this?)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My wife bought a silver 2001 300M Special a while back. She has parked > it too close to curbs a couple times and popped out the driver’s side of > the plastic front end "Air Dam" or whatever it’s called that runs below > the bumper (too) low to the ground and this last time, she popped it out > just by going over a dip in the road at an intersection a little too > fast. The first couple times I simply took it to a Chrysler dealer who > basically used a small tool to pop it back in without replacing any > parts at all but nicely charged us $150 for the 5 minute job. > I’d like to simply do it myself or take it to a mechanic who *might* ask > only 25 bucks for such a simple task. But I’m not having any luck with a > body mech who feels comfortable doing it(!) so I just want to do it myself. > The part itself is fairly flexible but I’m afraid of kinking it or even > cracking or breaking it if I just muscle it back into the little plastic > grommets. Obviously, I need whatever the small tool is to do this. Can > anyone point me in the right direction? > Thanks in advance, > T.B.

The dam is held on by 1/4" plastic pop rivets.  It simply takes a special pop rivet gun.  $150 for doing that?  My dealer put a new license plate holder on my daughter’s Mercury Mystique while we waited on the parking lot beside the car for free using the exact same pop rivets.  $2 worth of parts and a couple of minutes.  You got taken. You can get other types of plastic fasteners that fit the same size holes at Lowes – in the hardware section in the specialty fasteners (tiers of drawers – maybe labeled "Automotive Fasteners" or something similar) that do not require special tools.  They’re just like the auto mfgrs. use on wheel well liners and similar. And yes – some people do take the dams off. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

(snip) > What is your problem? Your body  mech did solve your problem. You should be > happy with it. > So what about  paying him $150 for a 5 minutes job ? You just supported the > American worker. > You should be proud. Plez.. Be proud driving American car. I hope you are > very happy man.

Good Lord. Do you understand that I think it’s outrageous paying a dealer mech a 150 bucks to pop a stupid plastic part back into place that I can probably now do myself armed with a couple tips another person (thank you, Mr Putney) who replied to this thread gave me? If your attidtude is pay whatever someone asks for a service without looking for a better deal, I got a bridge I wanna sell you. BTW, one other thing about this car: It’s had 4 complete brake jobs in under 20,000 miles. The dealer has done the last two gratis and as much as admitted this particular car has some problem they can’t figure out. Ina ddition, a mechanic confided to me that they don’t even have the proper equipment to align it after a brake job because of the "non-standard" tire size on the 300m Special. Can you say "Lemon Law?" I knew you could. After dealing with all sorts of bullshit with a 2001 Ford Explorer and now this beast from Chrysler, I’ll never by another American car again. T.B.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >My wife bought a silver 2001 300M Special a while back. She has parked >it too close to curbs a couple times and popped out the driver’s side of >the plastic front end "Air Dam" or whatever it’s called that runs below >the bumper (too) low to the ground and this last time, she popped it out >just by going over a dip in the road at an intersection a little too >fast. The first couple times I simply took it to a Chrysler dealer who >basically used a small tool to pop it back in without replacing any >parts at all but nicely charged us $150 for the 5 minute job. >I’d like to simply do it myself or take it to a mechanic who *might* ask >only 25 bucks for such a simple task. But I’m not having any luck with a >body mech who feels comfortable doing it(!) so I just want to do it myself. >The part itself is fairly flexible but I’m afraid of kinking it or even >cracking or breaking it if I just muscle it back into the little plastic >grommets. Obviously, I need whatever the small tool is to do this. Can >anyone point me in the right direction? >Thanks in advance, >T.B.

What is your problem? Your body  mech did solve your problem. You should be happy with it. So what about  paying him $150 for a 5 minutes job ? You just supported the American worker. You should be proud. Plez.. Be proud driving American car. I hope you are very happy man.

Response:

My wife bought a silver 2001 300M Special a while back. She has parked it too close to curbs a couple times and popped out the driver’s side of the plastic front end "Air Dam" or whatever it’s called that runs below the bumper (too) low to the ground and this last time, she popped it out just by going over a dip in the road at an intersection a little too fast. The first couple times I simply took it to a Chrysler dealer who basically used a small tool to pop it back in without replacing any parts at all but nicely charged us $150 for the 5 minute job. I’d like to simply do it myself or take it to a mechanic who *might* ask only 25 bucks for such a simple task. But I’m not having any luck with a body mech who feels comfortable doing it(!) so I just want to do it myself. The part itself is fairly flexible but I’m afraid of kinking it or even cracking or breaking it if I just muscle it back into the little plastic grommets. Obviously, I need whatever the small tool is to do this. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance, T.B.

Response:

My wife bought a silver 2001 300M Special a while back. She has parked it too close to curbs a couple times and popped out the driver’s side of the plastic front end "Air Dam" or whatever it’s called that runs below the bumper (too) low to the ground and this last time, she popped it out just by going over a dip in the road at an intersection a little too fast. The first couple times I simply took it to a Chrysler dealer who basically used a small tool to pop it back in without replacing any parts at all but nicely charged us $150 for the 5 minute job. I’d like to simply do it myself or take it to a mechanic who *might* ask only 25 bucks for such a simple task. But I’m not having any luck with a body mech who feels comfortable doing it(!) so I just want to do it myself. The part itself is fairly flexible but I’m afraid of kinking it or even cracking or breaking it if I just muscle it back into the little plastic grommets. Obviously, I need whatever the small tool is to do this. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance, T.B.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >My wife bought a silver 2001 300M Special a while back. She has parked >it too close to curbs a couple times and popped out the driver’s side of >the plastic front end "Air Dam" or whatever it’s called that runs below >the bumper (too) low to the ground and this last time, she popped it out >just by going over a dip in the road at an intersection a little too >fast. The first couple times I simply took it to a Chrysler dealer who >basically used a small tool to pop it back in without replacing any >parts at all but nicely charged us $150 for the 5 minute job. >I’d like to simply do it myself or take it to a mechanic who *might* ask >only 25 bucks for such a simple task. But I’m not having any luck with a >body mech who feels comfortable doing it(!) so I just want to do it myself. >The part itself is fairly flexible but I’m afraid of kinking it or even >cracking or breaking it if I just muscle it back into the little plastic >grommets. Obviously, I need whatever the small tool is to do this. Can >anyone point me in the right direction? >Thanks in advance, >T.B.

What is your problem? Your body  mech did solve your problem. You should be happy with it. So what about  paying him $150 for a 5 minutes job ? You just supported the American worker. You should be proud. Plez.. Be proud driving American car. I hope you are very happy man.

Response:

> 2001 300M Special parked it too close to curbs popped out the > driver’s side of the plastic front end "Air Dam"

That’s the problem with the ground-effects options that Chrysler had to resort to to make the special "special". As it is, the dam on my regular 300M barely clears most curb stones that I encounter.  In fact the underside of it is being slowly scraped away by running over them.  I’ve thought about removing it completey (anyone do this?)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My wife bought a silver 2001 300M Special a while back. She has parked > it too close to curbs a couple times and popped out the driver’s side of > the plastic front end "Air Dam" or whatever it’s called that runs below > the bumper (too) low to the ground and this last time, she popped it out > just by going over a dip in the road at an intersection a little too > fast. The first couple times I simply took it to a Chrysler dealer who > basically used a small tool to pop it back in without replacing any > parts at all but nicely charged us $150 for the 5 minute job. > I’d like to simply do it myself or take it to a mechanic who *might* ask > only 25 bucks for such a simple task. But I’m not having any luck with a > body mech who feels comfortable doing it(!) so I just want to do it myself. > The part itself is fairly flexible but I’m afraid of kinking it or even > cracking or breaking it if I just muscle it back into the little plastic > grommets. Obviously, I need whatever the small tool is to do this. Can > anyone point me in the right direction? > Thanks in advance, > T.B.

The dam is held on by 1/4" plastic pop rivets.  It simply takes a special pop rivet gun.  $150 for doing that?  My dealer put a new license plate holder on my daughter’s Mercury Mystique while we waited on the parking lot beside the car for free using the exact same pop rivets.  $2 worth of parts and a couple of minutes.  You got taken. You can get other types of plastic fasteners that fit the same size holes at Lowes – in the hardware section in the specialty fasteners (tiers of drawers – maybe labeled "Automotive Fasteners" or something similar) that do not require special tools.  They’re just like the auto mfgrs. use on wheel well liners and similar. And yes – some people do take the dams off. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

(snip) > What is your problem? Your body  mech did solve your problem. You should be > happy with it. > So what about  paying him $150 for a 5 minutes job ? You just supported the > American worker. > You should be proud. Plez.. Be proud driving American car. I hope you are > very happy man.

Good Lord. Do you understand that I think it’s outrageous paying a dealer mech a 150 bucks to pop a stupid plastic part back into place that I can probably now do myself armed with a couple tips another person (thank you, Mr Putney) who replied to this thread gave me? If your attidtude is pay whatever someone asks for a service without looking for a better deal, I got a bridge I wanna sell you. BTW, one other thing about this car: It’s had 4 complete brake jobs in under 20,000 miles. The dealer has done the last two gratis and as much as admitted this particular car has some problem they can’t figure out. Ina ddition, a mechanic confided to me that they don’t even have the proper equipment to align it after a brake job because of the "non-standard" tire size on the 300m Special. Can you say "Lemon Law?" I knew you could. After dealing with all sorts of bullshit with a 2001 Ford Explorer and now this beast from Chrysler, I’ll never by another American car again. T.B.

Response:

Since when does one need to do a front end alignment after a brake job. As far a having a "non-standard" tire size, can’t be that "non-standard".  TireRack.com lists 31 different 245/45R18 tires for the ‘02 and ‘03 300MSpec.  Sounds more like the dealer just don’t want to pony up for the adapter, most likely because most 300M’s are of the "standard" variety, with 225/55R17 tires. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Ina ddition, a mechanic confided to me that they don’t even have the > proper equipment to align it after a brake job because of the > "non-standard" tire size on the 300m Special.

Response:

I have a 99 plain 300M.  Best car I’ve ever own including my 2001 Avalon which is a rattle box.  Sorry you are having trouble with yours but problems with the 300M are uncommon.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > (snip) > What is your problem? Your body  mech did solve your problem. You should be > happy with it. > So what about  paying him $150 for a 5 minutes job ? You just supported the > American worker. > You should be proud. Plez.. Be proud driving American car. I hope you are > very happy man. > Good Lord. Do you understand that I think it’s outrageous paying a > dealer mech a 150 bucks to pop a stupid plastic part back into place > that I can probably now do myself armed with a couple tips another > person (thank you, Mr Putney) who replied to this thread gave me? If > your attidtude is pay whatever someone asks for a service without > looking for a better deal, I got a bridge I wanna sell you. > BTW, one other thing about this car: It’s had 4 complete brake jobs in > under 20,000 miles. The dealer has done the last two gratis and as much > as admitted this particular car has some problem they can’t figure out. > Ina ddition, a mechanic confided to me that they don’t even have the > proper equipment to align it after a brake job because of the > "non-standard" tire size on the 300m Special. > Can you say "Lemon Law?" I knew you could. > After dealing with all sorts of bullshit with a 2001 Ford Explorer and > now this beast from Chrysler, I’ll never by another American car again. > T.B.

Response:

> You should be proud. Plez.. Be proud driving American car. I hope you are > very happy man. > Good Lord. Do you understand that I think it’s outrageous paying a > dealer mech a 150 bucks to pop a stupid plastic part back into place

Hold on there Thomas, Phil is a troll, you just gave him a hard-on by reacting.  Now he is a very happy man. > BTW, one other thing about this car: It’s had 4 complete brake jobs in > under 20,000 miles. The dealer has done the last two gratis and as much > as admitted this particular car has some problem they can’t figure out. > Ina ddition, a mechanic confided to me that they don’t even have the > proper equipment to align it after a brake job because of the > "non-standard" tire size on the 300m Special. > Can you say "Lemon Law?" I knew you could.

Sounds to me like your dealer service department is run by a bunch of money-grubbing skinflints.  They probably don’t pay a decent mechanics salary and so the mechanics that work there are the bottom of the barrel. Most likely what is going on is the dealer service department is just using the softest pads they can find – probably not even rated for the vehicle – figuring that they are going to wear out fast that the people will come back often. So far it seems your dealer’s service department does the following: 1) Charges ridiculously high amounts for simple procedures that others would do for nothing or for very little. 2) Admits they are incompetent in being able to figure out a simple brake problem 3) suggest procedures like an alignment that has nothing to do with the problem your taking it in for. 4) Does not purchase appropriate equipment for servicing your vehicle, no doubt in violation of their contract with Chrysler. So, please explain again why your blaming the manufacturer? Ted

Response:

Question:

Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car Times have changed.  Russia and America now enjoy peaceful relations, just like they did before the ‘17 revolution, and the time is ripe for a joint car venture.  Decades ago, the Soviets tried the American market and found it wanting.  Its a new ball game now. Russian engineering gets respect by the public and plenty of it.  Just look at the Proton and Soyuz rockets.  What rockets!  Dependable, safe, and you know there good just by looking at their exhaust plume – a nice clean flame, just like an O’Keefe & Merritt cooker.  No smoke belching like the Space Shuttle.  For patriotic sake, you guys make still tout the Shuttle, but not a single one of your would-be spacemen would take NASA up on a free ticket.  Someday NASA will shake off its "Need Another Seven Astronauts"and "Not Another Shuttle Accident" image (even the Ford Explorer and Bronco II are safer), but for now as we all know, they are completely and totally dependent on the better-than-world-class Russian rocketships and I am sure NASA pays plenty of bucks for the privilege. I am convinced that Russia can help us out with our car problems too.  They know how to design cheap and rugged machines of all kinds.  Under the Soviets, car companies took the back seat of the bus, so had no opportunity to strut their stuff.  But that was then and this is now. I would not hesitate to buy a finely Russian designed, Chrysler-Russian jointly built car, sold through Chrysler dealerships.   Just maybe that Tamaraw FX-like $10,000 diesel utility vehicle can be designed and brought to market in the States through such a consortium. I see no reason why the U.S. Govenment could not sponsor such a worthwhile project, since neither the Russian government nor Chrysler Corp. have the seed money to do it right.  I think it could be done for 1/85th of this year’s Iraqi war budget.  That’s a real bargain to recapture the low end vehicle market from the Asians.  We’re talking about a million units a year and all the jobs that go along with supplying materials, labor, sales and servicing. This is a serious post. I have copywrited it to be sure everything so stated here is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth and irrevocably correct in its entirety, now and in perpeturity.

Response:

> The LADA and the NIVA(small 4×4) were imported into Canada from early 80s > until mid 90s, though the sales fell off alot in the mid 80s. > The Lada was ok, tractor like engine, but body was prone to rust. The NIVA > was tough. There are NIVA clubs still in Toronto area – they share old > parts to keep them on the road. > Wasn’t Lada the car where, if you put it in reverse, the speedometer would > run backwards?

The speedometer ran backwards in the K-car. Once while spinning the wheels while trying to get out of a snow bank I saw it go counter-clockwise to 90km/h. When the person tried drive it went all the way around, past 140, past the odometer, back over to 40 km/h

Response:

> Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car > Times have changed.  Russia and America now enjoy peaceful relations, just > like they did before the ‘17 revolution, and the time is ripe for a joint > car venture.  Decades ago, the Soviets tried the American market and found > it wanting.  Its a new ball game now. > Russian engineering gets respect by the public and plenty of it.  Just look > at the Proton and Soyuz rockets.  What rockets!  Dependable, safe, and you > know there good just by looking at their exhaust plume – a nice clean > flame, just like an O’Keefe & Merritt cooker.  No smoke belching like the > Space Shuttle.

Damn NASA, getting incomplete combustion with hydrogen and oxygen.

Response:

> Damn NASA, getting incomplete combustion with hydrogen and oxygen.

The boosters are solid fuel, not Hydrogen/Oxygen. Ted

Response:

> The LADA and the NIVA(small 4×4) were imported into Canada from early 80s > until mid 90s, though the sales fell off alot in the mid 80s. > The Lada was ok, tractor like engine, but body was prone to rust. The NIVA > was tough. There are NIVA clubs still in Toronto area – they share old > parts to keep them on the road.

Wasn’t Lada the car where, if you put it in reverse, the speedometer would run backwards? — "If, at first, you don’t succeed, try again.  Then, quit; no use being a damned fool about it." – W. C. Fields

Response:

>> The LADA and the NIVA(small 4×4) were imported into Canada from > early 80s until mid 90s, though the sales fell off alot in the mid > 80s. > The Lada was ok, tractor like engine, but body was prone to rust. > The NIVA was tough. There are NIVA clubs still in Toronto area – > they share old parts to keep them on the road. > Wasn’t Lada the car where, if you put it in reverse, the speedometer > would run backwards?

I’m also not sure that the Lada owed anything to Russian engineering or design. iirc They bought the plant, dies, and complete production capability from Fiat to build the Fiat 124 locally. — Rickety

Response:

> Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car

Doofus, the top-selling car in Russia is the Lada, and AvtoVAZ production facilities cannot even keep up with the demand.  VAZ is not interested in export until they have saturation in the Russian domestic maker.  None of this is any big secret. Ted

Response:

> Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car ><<snip>> > This is a serious post. I have copywrited it to be sure everything so > stated here is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth > and irrevocably correct in its entirety, now and in perpeturity.

Serious, you may be, knowledgeable, you are not. In non-legal definitions, "Copyright" effectively means that you "own" the rights to the work as published and that others cannot publish the work (a copy) without acknowledging your rights (often in the form of a royalty payment). For example, works of fact or fiction may be copyright. — Rickety

Response:

> Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car > Doofus, the top-selling car in Russia is the Lada, and > AvtoVAZ production facilities cannot even keep up > with the demand.  VAZ is not interested in export > until they have saturation in the Russian domestic > maker.  None of this is any big secret.

The LADA and the NIVA(small 4×4) were imported into Canada from early 80s until mid 90s, though the sales fell off alot in the mid 80s. The Lada was ok, tractor like engine, but body was prone to rust. The NIVA was tough. There are NIVA clubs still in Toronto area – they share old parts to keep them on the road. James Linn

Response:

>For patriotic sake, you guys make still tout the Shuttle, >but not a single one of your would-be spacemen would take NASA >up on a free ticket.

You lose. Where do I go pick that ticket up?

Response:

> This is a serious post. I have copywrited it to be sure everything so > stated here is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth and > irrevocably correct in its entirety, now and in perpeturity.

Terminal seriousness, or a troll? Get a life, loser.

Response:

| Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car | | Times have changed.  Russia and America now enjoy peaceful relations, just | like they did before the ‘17 revolution, and the time is ripe for a joint | car venture.  Decades ago, the Soviets tried the American market and found | it wanting.  Its a new ball game now. | | Russian engineering gets respect by the public and plenty of it.  Just look | at the Proton and Soyuz rockets.  What rockets!  Dependable, safe, and you | know there good just by looking at their exhaust plume – a nice clean | flame, just like an O’Keefe & Merritt cooker.  No smoke belching like the | Space Shuttle.  For patriotic sake, you guys make still tout the Shuttle, | but not a single one of your would-be spacemen would take NASA up on a free | ticket.  Someday NASA will shake off its "Need Another Seven Astronauts"and | "Not Another Shuttle Accident" image (even the Ford Explorer and Bronco II | are safer), but for now as we all know, they are completely and totally | dependent on the better-than-world-class Russian rocketships and I am sure | NASA pays plenty of bucks for the privilege. | | I am convinced that Russia can help us out with our car problems too. They | know how to design cheap and rugged machines of all kinds.  Under the | Soviets, car companies took the back seat of the bus, so had no opportunity | to strut their stuff.  But that was then and this is now. I would not | hesitate to buy a finely Russian designed, Chrysler-Russian jointly built | car, sold through Chrysler dealerships. | | Just maybe that Tamaraw FX-like $10,000 diesel utility vehicle can be | designed and brought to market in the States through such a consortium. I | see no reason why the U.S. Govenment could not sponsor such a worthwhile | project, since neither the Russian government nor Chrysler Corp. have the | seed money to do it right.  I think it could be done for 1/85th of this | year’s Iraqi war budget.  That’s a real bargain to recapture the low end | vehicle market from the Asians.  We’re talking about a million units a year | and all the jobs that go along with supplying materials, labor, sales and | servicing. | | This is a serious post. I have copywrited it to be sure everything so | stated here is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth and | irrevocably correct in its entirety, now and in perpeturity. | My guess is that a Russian vehicle would require $20,000 worth of work to meet all the federal crash, safety and emissions standards…now your $10,000 vehicle will cost $30,000 and it will still be a Russian POS when all is done.

Response:

Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car Times have changed.  Russia and America now enjoy peaceful relations, just like they did before the ‘17 revolution, and the time is ripe for a joint car venture.  Decades ago, the Soviets tried the American market and found it wanting.  Its a new ball game now. Russian engineering gets respect by the public and plenty of it.  Just look at the Proton and Soyuz rockets.  What rockets!  Dependable, safe, and you know there good just by looking at their exhaust plume – a nice clean flame, just like an O’Keefe & Merritt cooker.  No smoke belching like the Space Shuttle.  For patriotic sake, you guys make still tout the Shuttle, but not a single one of your would-be spacemen would take NASA up on a free ticket.  Someday NASA will shake off its "Need Another Seven Astronauts"and "Not Another Shuttle Accident" image (even the Ford Explorer and Bronco II are safer), but for now as we all know, they are completely and totally dependent on the better-than-world-class Russian rocketships and I am sure NASA pays plenty of bucks for the privilege. I am convinced that Russia can help us out with our car problems too.  They know how to design cheap and rugged machines of all kinds.  Under the Soviets, car companies took the back seat of the bus, so had no opportunity to strut their stuff.  But that was then and this is now. I would not hesitate to buy a finely Russian designed, Chrysler-Russian jointly built car, sold through Chrysler dealerships.   Just maybe that Tamaraw FX-like $10,000 diesel utility vehicle can be designed and brought to market in the States through such a consortium. I see no reason why the U.S. Govenment could not sponsor such a worthwhile project, since neither the Russian government nor Chrysler Corp. have the seed money to do it right.  I think it could be done for 1/85th of this year’s Iraqi war budget.  That’s a real bargain to recapture the low end vehicle market from the Asians.  We’re talking about a million units a year and all the jobs that go along with supplying materials, labor, sales and servicing. This is a serious post. I have copywrited it to be sure everything so stated here is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth and irrevocably correct in its entirety, now and in perpeturity.

Response:

| Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car | | Times have changed.  Russia and America now enjoy peaceful relations, just | like they did before the ‘17 revolution, and the time is ripe for a joint | car venture.  Decades ago, the Soviets tried the American market and found | it wanting.  Its a new ball game now. | | Russian engineering gets respect by the public and plenty of it.  Just look | at the Proton and Soyuz rockets.  What rockets!  Dependable, safe, and you | know there good just by looking at their exhaust plume – a nice clean | flame, just like an O’Keefe & Merritt cooker.  No smoke belching like the | Space Shuttle.  For patriotic sake, you guys make still tout the Shuttle, | but not a single one of your would-be spacemen would take NASA up on a free | ticket.  Someday NASA will shake off its "Need Another Seven Astronauts"and | "Not Another Shuttle Accident" image (even the Ford Explorer and Bronco II | are safer), but for now as we all know, they are completely and totally | dependent on the better-than-world-class Russian rocketships and I am sure | NASA pays plenty of bucks for the privilege. | | I am convinced that Russia can help us out with our car problems too. They | know how to design cheap and rugged machines of all kinds.  Under the | Soviets, car companies took the back seat of the bus, so had no opportunity | to strut their stuff.  But that was then and this is now. I would not | hesitate to buy a finely Russian designed, Chrysler-Russian jointly built | car, sold through Chrysler dealerships. | | Just maybe that Tamaraw FX-like $10,000 diesel utility vehicle can be | designed and brought to market in the States through such a consortium. I | see no reason why the U.S. Govenment could not sponsor such a worthwhile | project, since neither the Russian government nor Chrysler Corp. have the | seed money to do it right.  I think it could be done for 1/85th of this | year’s Iraqi war budget.  That’s a real bargain to recapture the low end | vehicle market from the Asians.  We’re talking about a million units a year | and all the jobs that go along with supplying materials, labor, sales and | servicing. | | This is a serious post. I have copywrited it to be sure everything so | stated here is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth and | irrevocably correct in its entirety, now and in perpeturity. | My guess is that a Russian vehicle would require $20,000 worth of work to meet all the federal crash, safety and emissions standards…now your $10,000 vehicle will cost $30,000 and it will still be a Russian POS when all is done.

Response:

>For patriotic sake, you guys make still tout the Shuttle, >but not a single one of your would-be spacemen would take NASA >up on a free ticket.

You lose. Where do I go pick that ticket up?

Response:

> This is a serious post. I have copywrited it to be sure everything so > stated here is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth and > irrevocably correct in its entirety, now and in perpeturity.

Terminal seriousness, or a troll? Get a life, loser.

Response:

> Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car

Doofus, the top-selling car in Russia is the Lada, and AvtoVAZ production facilities cannot even keep up with the demand.  VAZ is not interested in export until they have saturation in the Russian domestic maker.  None of this is any big secret. Ted

Response:

> Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car ><<snip>> > This is a serious post. I have copywrited it to be sure everything so > stated here is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth > and irrevocably correct in its entirety, now and in perpeturity.

Serious, you may be, knowledgeable, you are not. In non-legal definitions, "Copyright" effectively means that you "own" the rights to the work as published and that others cannot publish the work (a copy) without acknowledging your rights (often in the form of a royalty payment). For example, works of fact or fiction may be copyright. — Rickety

Response:

> Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car > Doofus, the top-selling car in Russia is the Lada, and > AvtoVAZ production facilities cannot even keep up > with the demand.  VAZ is not interested in export > until they have saturation in the Russian domestic > maker.  None of this is any big secret.

The LADA and the NIVA(small 4×4) were imported into Canada from early 80s until mid 90s, though the sales fell off alot in the mid 80s. The Lada was ok, tractor like engine, but body was prone to rust. The NIVA was tough. There are NIVA clubs still in Toronto area – they share old parts to keep them on the road. James Linn

Response:

> The LADA and the NIVA(small 4×4) were imported into Canada from early 80s > until mid 90s, though the sales fell off alot in the mid 80s. > The Lada was ok, tractor like engine, but body was prone to rust. The NIVA > was tough. There are NIVA clubs still in Toronto area – they share old > parts to keep them on the road.

Wasn’t Lada the car where, if you put it in reverse, the speedometer would run backwards? — "If, at first, you don’t succeed, try again.  Then, quit; no use being a damned fool about it." – W. C. Fields

Response:

>> The LADA and the NIVA(small 4×4) were imported into Canada from > early 80s until mid 90s, though the sales fell off alot in the mid > 80s. > The Lada was ok, tractor like engine, but body was prone to rust. > The NIVA was tough. There are NIVA clubs still in Toronto area – > they share old parts to keep them on the road. > Wasn’t Lada the car where, if you put it in reverse, the speedometer > would run backwards?

I’m also not sure that the Lada owed anything to Russian engineering or design. iirc They bought the plant, dies, and complete production capability from Fiat to build the Fiat 124 locally. — Rickety

Response:

> The LADA and the NIVA(small 4×4) were imported into Canada from early 80s > until mid 90s, though the sales fell off alot in the mid 80s. > The Lada was ok, tractor like engine, but body was prone to rust. The NIVA > was tough. There are NIVA clubs still in Toronto area – they share old > parts to keep them on the road. > Wasn’t Lada the car where, if you put it in reverse, the speedometer would > run backwards?

The speedometer ran backwards in the K-car. Once while spinning the wheels while trying to get out of a snow bank I saw it go counter-clockwise to 90km/h. When the person tried drive it went all the way around, past 140, past the odometer, back over to 40 km/h

Response:

> Time is Ripe for Ruskie-Chrysler Car > Times have changed.  Russia and America now enjoy peaceful relations, just > like they did before the ‘17 revolution, and the time is ripe for a joint > car venture.  Decades ago, the Soviets tried the American market and found > it wanting.  Its a new ball game now. > Russian engineering gets respect by the public and plenty of it.  Just look > at the Proton and Soyuz rockets.  What rockets!  Dependable, safe, and you > know there good just by looking at their exhaust plume – a nice clean > flame, just like an O’Keefe & Merritt cooker.  No smoke belching like the > Space Shuttle.

Damn NASA, getting incomplete combustion with hydrogen and oxygen.

Response:

> Damn NASA, getting incomplete combustion with hydrogen and oxygen.

The boosters are solid fuel, not Hydrogen/Oxygen. Ted

Response:

Question:

I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my 325is with the old style Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the pressure rating on the tire case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if (Heh) I drive hard.   Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this Don Decker

Response:

> I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my

325is with the old style > Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the

pressure rating on the tire > case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if (Heh) I drive hard. > Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this > Don Decker

10 PSI should suit you LOL

Response:

> I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my

325is with the old style > Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the

pressure rating on the tire > case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if (Heh) I drive hard. > Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this > Don Decker

35 lbs. is very low for maximum pressure.  The Conti Sport Contact II’s on my 328i allow for 51 psi, with a limit of 40 psi for seating the bead. "Sport" driving normally calls for more, not less pressure for best handling.  Why don’t you start with the pressures recommended on the door plaque & adjust upwards from there for a ride/handling balance which best suits you? Tom

Response:

Try looking at some comments on the tire rack site for others that use the same tire.  Might find some good advice.  35# sounds awful low for Max tire pressure.  Dealers must also think of lawsuits for tire recommendations due to recent events (Ford).  I never trust the dealers anyway, unless it is the TireRack.  Great company. Go to Conti’s web site also. Al

> I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my

325is with the old style > Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the

pressure rating on the tire – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if (Heh) I drive hard. > Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this > Don Decker

Response:

> I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my

325is with the old style > Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the

pressure rating on the tire > case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if (Heh) I drive hard. > Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this > Don Decker

Hard drivers need more pressure not less.  More will help the tire hold it’s shape under the stress of hard driving, less will allow it to deform and wear unevenly.  We are not talking drag racing here of course, but cornering. Local driving schools recommend 40psi for the day on the track for those runnign 33 to 35 pounds normally. -Russ.

Response:

According to the manual, nominal tyre pressure for those size tyres on a 3 series are 2.1 bar(29.5psi) front and 2.4 bar (34psi) rear. This is increased slightly for high speed or heavy loads.

> I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my

325is with the old style > Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the

pressure rating on the tire – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if (Heh) I drive hard. > Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this > Don Decker

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my > 325is with the old style > Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the > pressure rating on the tire > case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if > (Heh) I drive hard. > Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this > Don Decker > Hard drivers need more pressure not less.  More will help the tire hold it’s > shape under the stress of hard driving, less will allow it to deform and > wear unevenly.  We are not talking drag racing here of course, but > cornering. >  agreed, but only to a limit. too little pressure will cause tyres to

derform. but slightly lower pressure will increase traction as more tyre surface will be in contact with the road.too little presure will increase friction further leading to increased rolling resistance and heat build up, therefore if you intend to drive fast for long periods I would IMHO advise adding a little air to prevent this.Adding too much will over inflate the tyre causing less surface contact and less friction/traction and also ruin the ride. Use the manual or plate inside the drivers door to set your tyre pressure. 35 psi sounds very low for a max pressue!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Local driving schools recommend 40psi for the day on the track for those > runnign 33 to 35 pounds normally. > -Russ.

Response:

That is the max pressure at the max weight, you want considerably less than this for daily driving.

> I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my

325is with the old style > Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the

pressure rating on the tire – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if (Heh) I drive hard. > Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this > Don Decker

Response:

>I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my 325is with the old style >Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the pressure rating on the tire >case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if (Heh) I drive hard.   >Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this >Don Decker

 The max pressure listed on a tire’s sidewall is the maximum recommended for seating the tire bead to the rim when mounting the tire to the wheel.  It is not intended to be used as the actual running road pressure.  You’re supposed to use the pressures listed on the sticker affixed to the car’s doorjam or fuel filler door and not what’s listed on the tire.   When going to larger wheels and tires you’re still supposed to stick with the sticker’s settings,  but adding a pound or two is ok if you drive hard on the streets and canyons.   I have larger tires than stock and run them a few pounds higher than stock pressures and the tires don’t roll over at all even when fully attacking my favorite canyon roads and offramps.  Autocross and track duty are a whole nuther story, but for the street stick with stock pressures or slightly higher if you want to stiffen them up a bit. Randy 89 325is weekend autocross/canyon car Super stiff suspension and 225/50-15’s on 7.5" Alloys http://home.earthlink.net/~randylwalters/

Response:

Whimsy, Randy has laid out the story exactly as I see it.  I use that strategy even if the tires are plussed on stock wheels.  On our Saab 9/5 wagon I put 225/50/16 SP5000 all seasons instead of 215/55/16 as stock.  At doorplate pressures we had no problems for 20k miles until just a few weeks ago, when I found the tread was gone at all the front tire edges.  Turns out to be due to cornering (duh!), not rotating, and I think too little pressure.  I’m raising the pressure about 4 psi all around to move the wear pattern toward the center, and to help keep the sidewalls straight.   Don’t plan to moderate my driving style. That will get the cold pressures up to about 36 psi.  The doorplates recommend 32 psi, and the sidewalls are marked 51 psi max.  So this sounds safe to me.  The ride is a little choppy, but still a great car. This pressure increase hasn’t been necessary on my E36 with the same tires. Must be the better suspension and weight distribution. By the way, the Ford Explorer tire problems were due more to under-inflation, not over inflation. Ken

>I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my

325is with the old style >Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the

pressure rating on the tire – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this if (Heh) I drive hard. >Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this >Don Decker >  The max pressure listed on a tire’s sidewall is the maximum > recommended for seating the tire bead to the rim when mounting > the tire to the wheel.  It is not intended to be used as the actual > running road pressure. >  You’re supposed to use the pressures listed on the sticker affixed > to the car’s doorjam or fuel filler door and not what’s listed on the > tire.   When going to larger wheels and tires you’re still supposed > to stick with the sticker’s settings,  but adding a pound or two is > ok if you drive hard on the streets and canyons.   I have larger > tires than stock and run them a few pounds higher than stock > pressures and the tires don’t roll over at all even when fully > attacking my favorite canyon roads and offramps. >  Autocross and track duty are a whole nuther story, but > for the street stick with stock pressures or slightly higher > if you want to stiffen them up a bit. > Randy > 89 325is weekend autocross/canyon car > Super stiff suspension and 225/50-15’s on 7.5" Alloys > http://home.earthlink.net/~randylwalters/

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Whimsy, Randy has laid out the story exactly as I see it.  I use that > strategy even if the tires are plussed on stock wheels.  On our Saab 9/5 > wagon I put 225/50/16 SP5000 all seasons instead of 215/55/16 as stock. At > doorplate pressures we had no problems for 20k miles until just a few weeks > ago, when I found the tread was gone at all the front tire edges.  Turns out > to be due to cornering (duh!), not rotating, and I think too little > pressure.  I’m raising the pressure about 4 psi all around to move the wear > pattern toward the center, and to help keep the sidewalls straight. Don’t > plan to moderate my driving style. > That will get the cold pressures up to about 36 psi.  The doorplates > recommend 32 psi, and the sidewalls are marked 51 psi max.  So this sounds > safe to me.  The ride is a little choppy, but still a great car.

Couldn’t agree more. I’ve kept the (recommended 32 psi) pressures on my wife’s 9/3 convertible at about 34-35. The slight tradeoff in ride firmness is more than made up by the improved handling, and the projected tread life on the OEM Michelin XVS "all seasons" will be about 45,000 – with rotation every 10,000. Tom

Response:

I worked around several pressure settings to 41# front and 44# rear.  Ride is firm and solid now. (the Conti’s are rated at 44#)  I tried 44# in front for a time then reduced it a bit to 41#. 1989 325is. DDecker – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > I just purchased a new set of Conti ExtremeContact 205×55x15’s for my > 325is with the old style > > Zender two-piece 7×15 competition wheels.  The dealer told me that the > pressure rating on the tire > > case (35#) is the maximum rated psi.  That I might like to reduce this >if > (Heh) I drive hard. > > Take it for granted that I drive hard.  What’s your opinion on this > > Don Decker > Hard drivers need more pressure not less.  More will help the tire hold >it’s > shape under the stress of hard driving, less will allow it to deform and > wear unevenly.  We are not talking drag racing here of course, but > cornering. >  agreed, but only to a limit. too little pressure will cause tyres to >derform. but slightly lower pressure will increase traction as more tyre >surface will be in contact with the road.too little presure will increase >friction further leading to increased rolling resistance and heat build up, >therefore if you intend to drive fast for long periods I would IMHO advise >adding a little air to prevent this.Adding too much will over inflate the >tyre causing less surface contact and less friction/traction and also ruin >the ride. >Use the manual or plate inside the drivers door to set your tyre pressure. >35 psi sounds very low for a max pressue!! > Local driving schools recommend 40psi for the day on the track for those > runnign 33 to 35 pounds normally. > -Russ.

Response:

> I worked around several pressure settings to 41# front and 44# rear.  Ride

is firm and solid now. > (the Conti’s are rated at 44#)  I tried 44# in front for a time then

reduced it a bit to 41#. > 1989 325is. > DDecker

If you notice the tread is wearing faster in the center than on the shoulders, you have too much air. I think you have way too much air, by about 11 and 14 pounds front and rear, respectively. I am not familiar with the tires and rime that you have, or hte kind of driving you do, but just by looking at the numbers, I say you have too much air in them. Use some sidewalk chalk and draw a patch on your garage floor, then drive over the patch and observe the tire marks in the chalk.

Response:

Question:

One of my rear tire got a bubble. Mine’s 2002 325i which I bought just 6 months back…I have ard 7500 miles on it. Normally do I have to replace it with the spare I have or Can I go to the dealer and get a free replacement for the tire. I am assuming I have the right to ask for a free replacement since its just 6 months old. Any one ever got into the same situation?

Response:

> One of my rear tire got a bubble. Mine’s 2002 325i which I bought just > 6 months back…I have ard 7500 miles on it. > Normally do I have to replace it with the spare I have or Can I go to > the dealer and get a free replacement for the tire. I am assuming I > have the right to ask for a free replacement since its just 6 months > old.

1st, replace the tire immediately with the spare. Then, go to the dealer for a replacement (at least in the US, tire defects like that are covered.) Floyd

Response:

I read the original post, and I had a flash back to the ’70’s where Firestone had that problem with bubbles on the side walls.  Does anyone else remember that?  For that reason, I have NEVER bought Firestone.  And of course, their tire seperation issue with the Ford Explorer…  I’m surprised they are in business.  I guess people buy ‘em now as I’ll bet their prices are quite competitive.  ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> One of my rear tire got a bubble. Mine’s 2002 325i which I bought just > 6 months back…I have ard 7500 miles on it. > Normally do I have to replace it with the spare I have or Can I go to > the dealer and get a free replacement for the tire. I am assuming I > have the right to ask for a free replacement since its just 6 months > old. >1st, replace the tire immediately with the spare. >Then, go to the dealer for a replacement (at least in the US, tire >defects like that are covered.) >Floyd

Response:

I’ve had the same problem on a late ‘99 5 series.  The tyre had done 53,000 miles, but there was still plenty of tread left.  Tyre was a "Continental" What make was your tyre? Mike

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> One of my rear tire got a bubble. Mine’s 2002 325i which I bought just > 6 months back…I have ard 7500 miles on it. > Normally do I have to replace it with the spare I have or Can I go to > the dealer and get a free replacement for the tire. I am assuming I > have the right to ask for a free replacement since its just 6 months > old. > Any one ever got into the same situation?

Response:

>I’ve had the same problem on a late ‘99 5 series.  The tyre had done 53,000 >miles, but there was still plenty of tread left.  Tyre was a "Continental" >What make was your tyre? >Mike > One of my rear tire got a bubble. Mine’s 2002 325i which I bought just > 6 months back…I have ard 7500 miles on it. > Normally do I have to replace it with the spare I have or Can I go to > the dealer and get a free replacement for the tire. I am assuming I > have the right to ask for a free replacement since its just 6 months > old. > Any one ever got into the same situation?

The tire warranty is handled by the tire manufacturer. You should have gotten tire warranty information when you bought the car.

Response:

Mine was ‘Continental’. I think ‘Continental’ holds the contract for BMW 3,5,7 series. BMW: (99/00) 3-Series, 205/60R15 (98/99/00),205/55R16 (01/02) BMW: (98/99/00/01/02) 5-Series, 205/55R16 (02) BMW: (98/99/00/01/02) 7-Series follow this URL: http://www.conti-online.com Its a continental web site, but couldn’t get the damn warranty info on the tyres. I replaced mine with the Full Spare that I got from them.. I called the BMW service centre for a free replacement, but couldn’t get a proper answer from them..they said they don’t hold a warranty on tyres & that I need to get hold of Continental. Did any of you know how the tyre warranty holds good on a tyre with a bubble?? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve had the same problem on a late ‘99 5 series.  The tyre had done 53,000 > miles, but there was still plenty of tread left.  Tyre was a "Continental" > What make was your tyre? > Mike > One of my rear tire got a bubble. Mine’s 2002 325i which I bought just > 6 months back…I have ard 7500 miles on it. > Normally do I have to replace it with the spare I have or Can I go to > the dealer and get a free replacement for the tire. I am assuming I > have the right to ask for a free replacement since its just 6 months > old. > Any one ever got into the same situation?

Response:

> Mine was ‘Continental’. > I think ‘Continental’ holds the contract for BMW 3,5,7 series.

Several manufacturers have contracts with BMW, Continental included. These manufacturers include Michelin and, unusually perhaps, Firestone.

Response:

Question:

> My wife and I have done three european delivers since 97 Its a great > program…e-mail me and I’ll tell ya what to expect!!

I know hospitals costs are very high in the US, but this is ridiculous. — Ignasi.

Response:

I am considering replacing my 1993 Ford Explorer Sport with a 325xi. I am concerned about the amount of trunk space in the sedan, so I would possibly get the 325xi Sport Wagon. If I were to go this route, I would very seriously look into picking up a 2003 model in Munich during October under BMW’s European Delivery Program. I work for a major airline, so airfare to Europe is not a concern (as long as the planes aren’t full). I went to a local dealership last week (JMK in Springfield, NJ), and one thing that I forgot to ask while there concerns the "Free Scheduled Maintenance" program for the first three years. What is the maintenance program schedule, such as oil changes and the like? Is it on a predetermined mileage interval, for is it when the car’s computer says to change it? It sounds like they may use a synthetic oil, instead of petroleum based, correct? I’ve been brought up on changing the engine oil & filter every 3K-4k miles, usually doing it myself. I realize that synthetic oils will last longer than petroleum based (I haven’t used a synthetic oil in my car yet), but I’m concerned about the long range life of the engine if the intervals are too long. Except for one vehicle (a 1980 VW Rabbit) which I sold at 80k miles, all of my vehicles including my present Explorer have had over 100k miles on them when I sold or traded them in.

Response:

Question:

My 91 ford Explorer did the same thing, turned out to be some simple seal in the tranny, cost 22$ to fix. – 89 Dodge Caravan http://www.geocities.com/almustang96/van.html 169K miles most Hon-dah drives will need NOS to hang with this minivan.

Response:

My neon did the same thing…turned out to be a broken tranny pan gasket. Basically, check the fluid, its prob just low.  After you add, look under the vehicle for any leaks Hope I help

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently > started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems. Twice > within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when > the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine > revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the > transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom. Otherwise, > the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: > 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this > is a less serious problem? > 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? > 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost > effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). > 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan > transmission problems/repairs? > TIA, > Mark

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently >started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems.  Twice >within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when >the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine >revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the >transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom.  Otherwise, >the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: >1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this >is a less serious problem? >2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? >3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost >effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). >4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan >transmission problems/repairs? >TIA, >Mark

www.allpar.com

Response:

Larry, Good point.  Checking what the computer says is always a good thing to try, once the front-yard mechanic has exhausted his tools.  I had mine checked (there goes another $100), and it was reporting "several slip errors" and other non-critical problems.  Of course, mine had MANY more miles… Tony

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Why not have it diagnosed first?! Mine started doing it the other day, got > it to my trusted tech he put a DRB on it, and found the PRNDL switch plug > had come partially off. Plugged it in fully, problem solved. Iasked him how > many trans have been replaced/rebuilt for this kind of problems. His answer > was more than he can count! He said many of these things were replaced > because a shop manager would demand it for a "favored" customer and there > would be no failed parts whatsoever. Also if you haven’t bothered to do a > service on it that might be in order too. > Larry > Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just > recently > started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems. > Twice > within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice > versa when > the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral > (engine > revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the > transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom. > Otherwise, > the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: > 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility > that this > is a less serious problem? > 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current > trans? > 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most > cost > effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). > 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan > transmission problems/repairs? > TIA, > Mark

Response:

Why not have it diagnosed first?! Mine started doing it the other day, got it to my trusted tech he put a DRB on it, and found the PRNDL switch plug had come partially off. Plugged it in fully, problem solved. Iasked him how many trans have been replaced/rebuilt for this kind of problems. His answer was more than he can count! He said many of these things were replaced because a shop manager would demand it for a "favored" customer and there would be no failed parts whatsoever. Also if you haven’t bothered to do a service on it that might be in order too. Larry

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently > started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems. Twice > within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when > the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine > revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the > transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom. Otherwise, > the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: > 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this > is a less serious problem? > 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? > 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost > effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). > 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan > transmission problems/repairs? > TIA, > Mark

Response:

Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems.  Twice within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom.  Otherwise, the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this is a less serious problem? 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan transmission problems/repairs? TIA, Mark

Response:

Hey Mark, Recently had the same problem on my ‘96 Grand Caravan, and went through all the same questions.  Finally decided, based on talking to many different tranny shops and other folks, to go ahead and spend the $1800 on a rebuild (did the R&R myself).  Mine had 145k, exact same behavior.  The consensus was that it might last another 50k, or die before I left the shop.  No easy fixes on one with many miles. Works great now, and got rid of the driveway leaks, so probably worth it.  I did my research the old fashioned way, with the telephone book and talking to friends. Tony

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently > started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems. Twice > within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when > the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine > revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the > transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom. Otherwise, > the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: > 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this > is a less serious problem? > 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? > 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost > effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). > 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan > transmission problems/repairs? > TIA, > Mark

Response:

Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems.  Twice within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom.  Otherwise, the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this is a less serious problem? 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan transmission problems/repairs? TIA, Mark

Response:

Hey Mark, Recently had the same problem on my ‘96 Grand Caravan, and went through all the same questions.  Finally decided, based on talking to many different tranny shops and other folks, to go ahead and spend the $1800 on a rebuild (did the R&R myself).  Mine had 145k, exact same behavior.  The consensus was that it might last another 50k, or die before I left the shop.  No easy fixes on one with many miles. Works great now, and got rid of the driveway leaks, so probably worth it.  I did my research the old fashioned way, with the telephone book and talking to friends. Tony

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently > started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems. Twice > within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when > the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine > revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the > transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom. Otherwise, > the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: > 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this > is a less serious problem? > 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? > 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost > effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). > 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan > transmission problems/repairs? > TIA, > Mark

Response:

Why not have it diagnosed first?! Mine started doing it the other day, got it to my trusted tech he put a DRB on it, and found the PRNDL switch plug had come partially off. Plugged it in fully, problem solved. Iasked him how many trans have been replaced/rebuilt for this kind of problems. His answer was more than he can count! He said many of these things were replaced because a shop manager would demand it for a "favored" customer and there would be no failed parts whatsoever. Also if you haven’t bothered to do a service on it that might be in order too. Larry

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently > started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems. Twice > within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when > the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine > revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the > transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom. Otherwise, > the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: > 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this > is a less serious problem? > 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? > 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost > effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). > 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan > transmission problems/repairs? > TIA, > Mark

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently >started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems.  Twice >within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when >the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine >revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the >transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom.  Otherwise, >the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: >1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this >is a less serious problem? >2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? >3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost >effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). >4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan >transmission problems/repairs? >TIA, >Mark

www.allpar.com

Response:

Larry, Good point.  Checking what the computer says is always a good thing to try, once the front-yard mechanic has exhausted his tools.  I had mine checked (there goes another $100), and it was reporting "several slip errors" and other non-critical problems.  Of course, mine had MANY more miles… Tony

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Why not have it diagnosed first?! Mine started doing it the other day, got > it to my trusted tech he put a DRB on it, and found the PRNDL switch plug > had come partially off. Plugged it in fully, problem solved. Iasked him how > many trans have been replaced/rebuilt for this kind of problems. His answer > was more than he can count! He said many of these things were replaced > because a shop manager would demand it for a "favored" customer and there > would be no failed parts whatsoever. Also if you haven’t bothered to do a > service on it that might be in order too. > Larry > Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just > recently > started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems. > Twice > within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice > versa when > the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral > (engine > revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the > transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom. > Otherwise, > the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: > 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility > that this > is a less serious problem? > 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current > trans? > 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most > cost > effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). > 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan > transmission problems/repairs? > TIA, > Mark

Response:

My 91 ford Explorer did the same thing, turned out to be some simple seal in the tranny, cost 22$ to fix. – 89 Dodge Caravan http://www.geocities.com/almustang96/van.html 169K miles most Hon-dah drives will need NOS to hang with this minivan.

Response:

My neon did the same thing…turned out to be a broken tranny pan gasket. Basically, check the fluid, its prob just low.  After you add, look under the vehicle for any leaks Hope I help

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, our ‘97 Grand Voyager is getting close to 100K miles and has just recently > started to exhibit some of the dreaded Chrysler transmission problems. Twice > within the last month, I have shifted from forward to reverse or vice versa when > the car was cold and had it behave as though it were still in neutral (engine > revs, car stays put).  In each case it took about 10 seconds before the > transmission actually engaged.  I understand this is a known symptom. Otherwise, > the transmission works flawlessly.  Questions: > 1. Does this mean a transmission rebuild soon or is there a possibility that this > is a less serious problem? > 2. Or at this point is there a way to extend the life of the current trans? > 3. If I’m looking at major repair, any suggestions how to get it done most cost > effectively (I’ve seen folks talking about $1700 for a tranny rebuild). > 4. Can anyone point me to web resources for more info on Chrysler minivan > transmission problems/repairs? > TIA, > Mark

Response:

Question:

I have a 1989 S10 Blazer. I just noticed some of the blue paint is peeling on the roof. Underneath it is just smooth metal. How can I fix this to cover it up and prevent further peeling?

Response:

The primer was defective and ‘recalled….quietly’ . I had my truck re-painted end to end for free by chevy dealer. They stripper the primer…but ask them for advise. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1989 S10 Blazer. > I just noticed some of the blue paint is peeling on the roof. Underneath it > is just smooth metal. > How can I fix this to cover it up and prevent further peeling?

Response:

My 1988 C1500 was repainted on the recall but they evidentially didn’t strip the primer because it is pealing again. — Hoot

| The primer was defective and ‘recalled….quietly’ . | I had my truck re-painted end to end for free by chevy dealer. | They stripper the primer…but ask them for advise. | | | | > I have a 1989 S10 Blazer. | > | > I just noticed some of the blue paint is peeling on the roof. Underneath it | > is just smooth metal. | > | > How can I fix this to cover it up and prevent further peeling? |

Response:

I have a 94 Dakota and my paint is peeling off and I cant get any assistance with it… Tony

Response:

same thing with me. i am the second owner. i have been thru the reps, did all of the phone calls but since i am the second owner, they won’t do anything for me. my wife and i just went and bought a new ford explorer. i bought my last dodge. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 94 Dakota and my paint is peeling off and I cant get any assistance >with it… >Tony

Response:

That’s odd that your chrysler dealer won’t help — mine has me on a waiting list for a repaint (at CC expense). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 94 Dakota and my paint is peeling off and I cant get any assistance > with it… > Tony

Response:

I have a 94 Dakota and my paint is peeling off and I cant get any assistance with it… Tony

Response:

same thing with me. i am the second owner. i have been thru the reps, did all of the phone calls but since i am the second owner, they won’t do anything for me. my wife and i just went and bought a new ford explorer. i bought my last dodge. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 94 Dakota and my paint is peeling off and I cant get any assistance >with it… >Tony

Response:

That’s odd that your chrysler dealer won’t help — mine has me on a waiting list for a repaint (at CC expense). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 94 Dakota and my paint is peeling off and I cant get any assistance > with it… > Tony

Response:

Question:

PLEASE can someone in this group recommend a WEED WACKER that will start and run? rosie —

Response:

A goat? Seriously, have you thought of going electric?  Less problems that gas, quieter (your neighbors will thank you) and more environmentaly friendly. Then again, so is the goat! Chris

Response:

The best ones are Shindaiwa followed by Echo, Stihl, and Husqvarna. Don’t let gas go stale in any of them or they won’t "start and run". – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >PLEASE can someone in this group recommend a WEED WACKER that will start and >run? >rosie

Response:

> PLEASE can someone in this group recommend a WEED WACKER that will start and > run?

I had 3 gas trimmers here at home and returned 3 of htem before I found one I liked.  The Craftsman from Sears shook so bad and was so unbalanced my hands were numb after 8 minutes of trimming.  The manager at the Sears store recommended the WeedEater brand over the Craftsman for less vibration.  The regular Weedeater Featherlite with the curved shaft was too short for me to trim in an upright position. The Weed Eater Featherlite SST straight shafter trimmer is what I’ve decided to keep.  It’s quite very powerful, well-balanced, very light, has a dual feed head which (to my surprise) makes a big difference in trimming speed/balance, and is long enough for me to trim without stooping down.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> PLEASE can someone in this group recommend a WEED WACKER that will start and > run? > I had 3 gas trimmers here at home and returned 3 of htem before I > found one I liked.  The Craftsman from Sears shook so bad and was so > unbalanced my hands were numb after 8 minutes of trimming.  The > manager at the Sears store recommended the WeedEater brand over the > Craftsman for less vibration.  The regular Weedeater Featherlite with > the curved shaft was too short for me to trim in an upright position. > The Weed Eater Featherlite SST straight shafter trimmer is what I’ve > decided to keep.  It’s quite very powerful, well-balanced, very light, > has a dual feed head which (to my surprise) makes a big difference in > trimming speed/balance, and is long enough for me to trim without > stooping down.

I recently purchased the Featherlite "Plus"… runs fine, lightweight, but there is just something about the design that makes it awkward to use. To hold it at the proper angle for trimming, my inner forearm is resting on the engine cover. Not hot, but still….. But it trims well, and starts within a pull or two. Mike —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> PLEASE can someone in this group recommend a WEED WACKER that will start and > run? > rosie > —

WHAT’S WITH THE CAPS?  look in tHe archive.  there’s doZens of thrEAds and recomEndations.  HERE: http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search?hl=en&lr=&group=alt.ho… —  HYH =

Question:

Hello, My recently acquired 87 325e emits a kinda burning smell (most probably from the exhaust) when I drive it for a long  time on the highway (more than 100 miles continously, with an average speed of 75mph). Is there any possible reason for it? Is it a very serious thing? I recently replaced the timing belt and the driveshaft center bearing. Thanks in advance.. — Sourav

Response:

I have the same problem on my 95 320i. Always near the rear driver side wheel. Mathy 95-320i

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > My recently acquired 87 325e emits a kinda burning smell (most probably > from the exhaust) when I drive it for a long  time on the highway (more > than 100 miles continously, with an average speed of 75mph). > Is there any possible reason for it? Is it a very serious thing? I > recently replaced the timing belt and the driveshaft center bearing. > Thanks in advance.. > — > Sourav

Response:

>My recently acquired 87 325e emits a kinda burning smell (most probably >from the exhaust) when I drive it for a long  time on the highway (more >than 100 miles continously, with an average speed of 75mph). >Is there any possible reason for it? Is it a very serious thing?

Could be oil that is leaking onto the hot engine and burning. With a long drive you will notice it more. It’s not really a big deal if the leak isn’t a lot. You can see how much it is on the top of the engine. Otherwise you would need to re-seal the engine and that may cost some bucks since I don’t know anyone that I would let do that except for a BMW service center. Juan G.

Response:

> I have the same problem on my 95 320i. Always near the rear driver side > wheel.

Hmmm, same problem, same place, similar conditions. It’s a burning rubber smell, but the tyres are in A1 condition. Very puzzling, since it’s only at the back and on one side. This is on a ‘97 323i SE.

Response:

Would not be some plastic touched the Catalytic converter? They’re known to be hot! Have to figure it out soon!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have the same problem on my 95 320i. Always near the rear driver side > wheel. >Hmmm, same problem, same place, similar conditions. >It’s a burning rubber smell, but the tyres are in A1 condition. >Very puzzling, since it’s only at the back and on one side. >This is on a ‘97 323i SE.

Response:

Could be slight tranny fluid leak onto exhaust pipe by converter.  Check  for rear seal leak. I had similar problem on mine Ralph 85 BMW 325e (best vehicle i’ve ever had) 96 Ford Explorer XLT 89 Ford Tempo (piece of crap) 00 Yamaha Warrier 79 Honda XR125

Response:

possibly oxygen sensor is broken,. i noticed this on my E36.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Would not be some plastic touched the Catalytic converter? They’re known to > be hot! > Have to figure it out soon! >> I have the same problem on my 95 320i. Always near the rear driver side >> wheel. >Hmmm, same problem, same place, similar conditions. >It’s a burning rubber smell, but the tyres are in A1 condition. >Very puzzling, since it’s only at the back and on one side. >This is on a ‘97 323i SE.

Response:

didnt realise your car an 87.you might not have an oxygen sensor.it may be the catalytic converter. but if you pass emissions inspection.i wouldnt worry about it.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > My recently acquired 87 325e emits a kinda burning smell (most probably > from the exhaust) when I drive it for a long  time on the highway (more > than 100 miles continously, with an average speed of 75mph). > Is there any possible reason for it? Is it a very serious thing? I > recently replaced the timing belt and the driveshaft center bearing. > Thanks in advance.. > — > Sourav

Response:

Question:

I had similar problem with 85 e30. It was a bad o-ring on the fuel guage sender unit. There are 2 o-rings in that area. Cheap and worth a try. Good Luck Ralph 85 BMW 325e 96 Ford Explorer XLT 88 Ford Festiva L 85 GMC Jimmy S-15 00 Yamaha Warrier

Response:

Hey everyone.  I own a 1982 320i, originally a California car, now in Oregon.  I have a gas smell problem.  It’s the worst just after I fill the tanks.  The smell seems to generate in the trunk then move into the cab. Every fuel hose that travels from the spout to the tanks, and all the hoses pertaining to the compensation box have been replaced.  I just don’t understand where the smell is coming from.  I don’t think it’s coming from the accumulator under the back seat.  When I put my nose to the seat it doesn’t smell of gas.  There’s no gasoline smell in the front of the car (under the hood).  Any ideas, I’m totally baffeled! TIA Derrick

Response:

               Derrick;                      Has anyone checked the overflow hose,and the possibility a poorly sealing gas cap is allowing overflow or it’s vapors into the car? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hey everyone.  I own a 1982 320i, originally a California car, now > in > Oregon.  I have a gas smell problem.  It’s the worst just after I > fill the > tanks.  The smell seems to generate in the trunk then move into > the cab. > Every fuel hose that travels from the spout to the tanks, and all > the hoses > pertaining to the compensation box have been replaced.  I just > don’t > understand where the smell is coming from.  I don’t think it’s > coming from > the accumulator under the back seat.  When I put my nose to the > seat it > doesn’t smell of gas.  There’s no gasoline smell in the front of > the car > (under the hood).  Any ideas, I’m totally baffeled! > TIA > Derrick

* Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Yeah, that hose has been replaced.  I haven’t tried a new gas cap though, but it doesn’t seem like that would get so much smell in to the car. ~Derrick

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->                Derrick; >                      Has anyone checked the overflow hose,and the > possibility a poorly sealing gas cap is allowing overflow or it’s > vapors into the car?

Response: