Question:

ATF? You did grease them as well, right?  (or don’t Explorer hubs need grease?) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install).

Response:

Try backing up for more than a "few feet". On mine I had to back up for at least a few hundred feet before they’d disengage. Then, whenever I’d get stuck in deep snow, they wouldnt engage. And it was more like a "zzzzzzzzz" sound. like fast racheting…. Took it to the dealer and it needed new hubs and new U-joints. Don’t know if he was pulling my leg or not but he said warn U-joints will accelerate wear on the hubs. But both were replaced and it worked fine for the next 6 years, until I sold the car. dickm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not >have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left >side did not. >I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works >fine. >However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel >drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a >buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise >increases pitch with wheel speed. >I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? >I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). >When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs >are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. >Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to >manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a >tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. >Thanks for your help, >Chris

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not >have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left >side did not. >I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works >fine. >However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel >drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a >buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise >increases pitch with wheel speed. >I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? >I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). >When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs >are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. >Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to >manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a >tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. >Thanks for your help, >Chris

Chris, This exact same thing happened on my ‘93 full-size Bronco.  In addition to the buzzing, I would experience a clunking noise when coming to a stop.  What I found it to be was my 4WD motor was not allowing my 4WD system to completely disengage.  Eventually the 4WD motor stopped working alltogether.  At this point, I crawled under my truck and tapped on the 4WD motor with a small ballpeen hammer. Luckily for me, this brought it back to life and I haven’t had a problem since.   Give the tapping a shot.  Hopefully it will work for you as it did for me.  If it does, remember to use your 4WD from time to time to keep it in good working order. Hope this helps. NES

Response:

Hey everyone, When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left side did not. I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works fine. However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise increases pitch with wheel speed. I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites (completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. Thanks for your help, Chris

Response:

Question:

ATF? You did grease them as well, right?  (or don’t Explorer hubs need grease?) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install).

Response:

Try backing up for more than a "few feet". On mine I had to back up for at least a few hundred feet before they’d disengage. Then, whenever I’d get stuck in deep snow, they wouldnt engage. And it was more like a "zzzzzzzzz" sound. like fast racheting…. Took it to the dealer and it needed new hubs and new U-joints. Don’t know if he was pulling my leg or not but he said warn U-joints will accelerate wear on the hubs. But both were replaced and it worked fine for the next 6 years, until I sold the car. dickm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not >have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left >side did not. >I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works >fine. >However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel >drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a >buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise >increases pitch with wheel speed. >I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? >I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). >When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs >are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. >Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to >manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a >tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. >Thanks for your help, >Chris

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hey everyone, >When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not >have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left >side did not. >I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works >fine. >However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel >drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a >buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise >increases pitch with wheel speed. >I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? >I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites >(completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then >let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). >When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs >are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. >Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to >manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a >tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. >Thanks for your help, >Chris

Chris, This exact same thing happened on my ‘93 full-size Bronco.  In addition to the buzzing, I would experience a clunking noise when coming to a stop.  What I found it to be was my 4WD motor was not allowing my 4WD system to completely disengage.  Eventually the 4WD motor stopped working alltogether.  At this point, I crawled under my truck and tapped on the 4WD motor with a small ballpeen hammer. Luckily for me, this brought it back to life and I haven’t had a problem since.   Give the tapping a shot.  Hopefully it will work for you as it did for me.  If it does, remember to use your 4WD from time to time to keep it in good working order. Hope this helps. NES

Response:

Hey everyone, When I bought my truck, the 4 wheel drive did not work (front wheels did not have power).  My mechanic observed that the right side worked, but the left side did not. I picked up a used hub at the wreckers, installed it, and the 4×4 now works fine. However…when i disengage the 4 wheel drive (i.e. shift back into 2 wheel drive, then reverse for a few feet) and start driving forward, I can hear a buzzing/grinding noise coming from the front drivetrain.  The noise increases pitch with wheel speed. I’m supposing that the hubs are not totally disengaging? I serviced both hubs before reinstalling as I’ve read on several websites (completely cleaned out grease using brake cleaner and laquer thinner, then let hub internals soak in ATF for 10-15 minutes, drain, and install). When I shift into and out of 4 wheel drive (but don’t back up, so the hubs are still locked), there is no buzzing noise. Any ideas on how I can service this?  Please don’t suggest changing to manual hubs….while I know that is the "best idea", I am working with a tight budget at the moment so it will have to wait. Thanks for your help, Chris

Response:

Question:

I have a 2000 Explorer XLT with 57,000 miles. There is a strong vibration that increases and decreases with speed and resembles a thumping sound under the floorboard. Tires and brakes are okay. Any suggestions appreciated. JW

Response:

I’m no expert, but I’d see if your U joints need replacement. You can do this by twisting your driveshaft and see if there is any play in it. Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 2000 Explorer XLT with 57,000 miles. There is a > strong vibration that increases and decreases with speed > and resembles a thumping sound under the floorboard. > Tires and brakes are okay. > Any suggestions appreciated. > JW

Response:

    Check your universal joint. I just replaced mine last night for a similar, but very slight, vibration.

|I have a 2000 Explorer XLT with 57,000 miles. There is a | strong vibration that increases and decreases with speed | and resembles a thumping sound under the floorboard. | | Tires and brakes are okay. | | Any suggestions appreciated. | | JW

Response:

Question:

<<1995 Explorer..my heat gauge does not move up but about <<an eigth of an inch and the heater does not get very <<hot. anyone know what may be causing <<this…thanks..Ronnie>> <<Thermostat.>> Agreed – jammed wide open.

Response:

Definately the thermostat….Make sure you get that gasket out! Searcher1

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > <<1995 Explorer..my heat gauge does not move up but about <<an eigth of an > inch and the heater does not get very <<hot. anyone know what may be > causing <<this…thanks..Ronnie>> > <<Thermostat.>> > Agreed – jammed wide open.

Response:

1995 Explorer..my heat gauge does not move up but about an eigth of an inch and the heater does not get very hot.anyone know what may be causing this…thanks..Ronnie

Response:

> 1995 Explorer..my heat gauge does not move up but about an eigth of an inch > and the heater does not get very hot.anyone know what may be causing > this…thanks..Ronnie

Thermostat.

Response:

Question:

im having a problem with cruise control i had to replace my battery and cruise didnt work until then after replacing battery it worked for about 400 miles then quit again can you tell me what the problem may be also when i put a tape in my deck it messes up my radio stations and my clock any suggestions would be

Response:

sounds like a bad fuse, or bad cable -Matt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >im having a problem with cruise control i had to replace my battery and cruise >didnt work until then after replacing battery it worked for about 400 miles >then quit again can you tell me what the problem may be also when i put a tape >in my deck it messes up my radio stations and my clock any suggestions would be

Response:

Ulysses or Happy Father please!  Glad Dad and I both experience similar problems!  I have solved the problem aesthetically, by unblocking a "hack job lectrick tape" plug in the extra port on the vaccum tree in or around the right valve cover.  My needle stood still until I temporarily re-blocked the small forward-facing port. It idles perfectly.  The large amount of air input makes me cautious about driving the vehicle until solved completely. 91 4Liter v6 4D PW PL PS AC CC 4WD  Thank you forwardly,   Jeff

Response:

My positive cable completely fell apart.  I also replaced the starter motor (had 260,000 miles on it).  You get to the starter motor by crawling underneath.  It has two bolts (one is a stud) and are removed with a 13mm wrench.  One small wire unplugs and the other big wire has a nut (also 13mm) holding it on.  It’s easier to remove the wires first then unscrew the motor. If your undercarriage is muddy I suggest hosing it off real good before removing the starter motor otherwise you’ll get dirt in your eyes. Why did you replace the alternator?  Because the voltage meter was jumping?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> my truck is having electrical problems. > i think i have tracked it down to the positive terminal that runs from the > battry.  this terminal has three leads, 2 are 4 guage one runs to the > solinoid and the other to the starter, the 12 guage wire runs from the > solinoid down to the starter. > one of the wires looks burnt. > the problme is when starting the truck it cranks once then has trouble > starting and once it does the the electrical guage on the dash bounces > around for a minute then returns to the nornal charging range.  i have had > the battery checked and replaced the alternator. > Has anyone else had this problem? > Also how do i get to the starter? > Im about to replace the terminal but if that doesnt do it i would like any > suggestions?

Response:

my truck is having electrical problems. i think i have tracked it down to the positive terminal that runs from the battry.  this terminal has three leads, 2 are 4 guage one runs to the solinoid and the other to the starter, the 12 guage wire runs from the solinoid down to the starter. one of the wires looks burnt. the problme is when starting the truck it cranks once then has trouble starting and once it does the the electrical guage on the dash bounces around for a minute then returns to the nornal charging range.  i have had the battery checked and replaced the alternator. Has anyone else had this problem? Also how do i get to the starter? Im about to replace the terminal but if that doesnt do it i would like any suggestions?

Response:

Question:

im having a problem with cruise control i had to replace my battery and cruise didnt work until then after replacing battery it worked for about 400 miles then quit again can you tell me what the problem may be also when i put a tape in my deck it messes up my radio stations and my clock any suggestions would be

Response:

sounds like a bad fuse, or bad cable -Matt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >im having a problem with cruise control i had to replace my battery and cruise >didnt work until then after replacing battery it worked for about 400 miles >then quit again can you tell me what the problem may be also when i put a tape >in my deck it messes up my radio stations and my clock any suggestions would be

Response:

Ulysses or Happy Father please!  Glad Dad and I both experience similar problems!  I have solved the problem aesthetically, by unblocking a "hack job lectrick tape" plug in the extra port on the vaccum tree in or around the right valve cover.  My needle stood still until I temporarily re-blocked the small forward-facing port. It idles perfectly.  The large amount of air input makes me cautious about driving the vehicle until solved completely. 91 4Liter v6 4D PW PL PS AC CC 4WD  Thank you forwardly,   Jeff

Response:

My positive cable completely fell apart.  I also replaced the starter motor (had 260,000 miles on it).  You get to the starter motor by crawling underneath.  It has two bolts (one is a stud) and are removed with a 13mm wrench.  One small wire unplugs and the other big wire has a nut (also 13mm) holding it on.  It’s easier to remove the wires first then unscrew the motor. If your undercarriage is muddy I suggest hosing it off real good before removing the starter motor otherwise you’ll get dirt in your eyes. Why did you replace the alternator?  Because the voltage meter was jumping?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> my truck is having electrical problems. > i think i have tracked it down to the positive terminal that runs from the > battry.  this terminal has three leads, 2 are 4 guage one runs to the > solinoid and the other to the starter, the 12 guage wire runs from the > solinoid down to the starter. > one of the wires looks burnt. > the problme is when starting the truck it cranks once then has trouble > starting and once it does the the electrical guage on the dash bounces > around for a minute then returns to the nornal charging range.  i have had > the battery checked and replaced the alternator. > Has anyone else had this problem? > Also how do i get to the starter? > Im about to replace the terminal but if that doesnt do it i would like any > suggestions?

Response:

my truck is having electrical problems. i think i have tracked it down to the positive terminal that runs from the battry.  this terminal has three leads, 2 are 4 guage one runs to the solinoid and the other to the starter, the 12 guage wire runs from the solinoid down to the starter. one of the wires looks burnt. the problme is when starting the truck it cranks once then has trouble starting and once it does the the electrical guage on the dash bounces around for a minute then returns to the nornal charging range.  i have had the battery checked and replaced the alternator. Has anyone else had this problem? Also how do i get to the starter? Im about to replace the terminal but if that doesnt do it i would like any suggestions?

Response:

Question:

Bought  a 1994 explorer at an acution. It has a am-fm-single disc cd player. The unit doesn’t seem to have power. Checked fuses, they looked good. Is there a code to enter, if so how do I obtain it. Thanks

Response:

if there’s a code only the dealer has it. you’d have to pull the deckout to get the serial #, in THAT case, just replace it with a new deck for $120 or so..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Bought  a 1994 explorer at an acution. It has a am-fm-single disc cd player. > The unit doesn’t seem to have power. Checked fuses, they looked good. Is > there a code to enter, if so how do I obtain it. Thanks

Response:

Question:

Bought  a 1994 explorer at an acution. It has a am-fm-single disc cd player. The unit doesn’t seem to have power. Checked fuses, they looked good. Is there a code to enter, if so how do I obtain it. Thanks

Response:

if there’s a code only the dealer has it. you’d have to pull the deckout to get the serial #, in THAT case, just replace it with a new deck for $120 or so..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Bought  a 1994 explorer at an acution. It has a am-fm-single disc cd player. > The unit doesn’t seem to have power. Checked fuses, they looked good. Is > there a code to enter, if so how do I obtain it. Thanks

Response:

Question:

I just bought the adapter today, so I hope it isn’t defective. The instructions on the box say something like "if your cassette player has an A/B function, set the controls to play side A". I’m not sure if that is possible. Any idea? Thanks!

Response:

I have the standard radio (with single front-loading CD player) in my 2000 XLT. I’m trying to turn OFF the A/B function on my cassette player, so that the tape does NOT flip over if its at the end. I need to do this because I am using a cassette adapter for my iPod to play through my stereo, and the cassette must be played repeatedly on side A. Does anybody know how to accomplish this? Thanks in advance!

Response:

> I have the standard radio (with single front-loading CD player) in my 2000 > XLT. > I’m trying to turn OFF the A/B function on my cassette player, so that the > tape does NOT flip over if its at the end. > I need to do this because I am using a cassette adapter for my iPod to > play through my stereo, and the cassette must be played repeatedly on side > A. > Does anybody know how to accomplish this?

Yes- does your adapter actually cause the A/B switch to occur? If it does. get a different adapter, as yours is broken, or possibly your cassette player is switching sides prematurely because it needs adjustment, but this is unlikely. The cassette adapters I have seen use an little belt between the pulleys to keep the end-of-tape sensor from kicking in, probably the belt inside the adapter is broken.

Response:

Question:

While this is a viable diagnostic step in older models, we need to be careful about relay swapping in later models. Ford has developed a taste for "piggy-backing" relays….. i.e, one relay will operate a device and, at the same time, turn on another relay. I’ve seen more than one person bitten by this scenario when they swap two relays and the device still wont work… Best case scenario would be to try one from a donor vehicle….. all the relays are cross platform so any friend or relative with a similar year vehicle….. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->  Is your "Fuel Reset" indicator light >illuminated on your instrument panel?  If so, try reseting the switch >located in the jack compartment. > And if that is ok, try swapping out the fuel pump relay under the hood with > another relay to see if that solves the problem.

Response:

>  Is your "Fuel Reset" indicator light >illuminated on your instrument panel?  If so, try reseting the switch >located in the jack compartment.

And if that is ok, try swapping out the fuel pump relay under the hood with another relay to see if that solves the problem.

Response:

> Does anyone know where the fuel pump is on a 1996 Explorer? > I am assuming that this is why my truck refused to start this morning. > The only thing different I noticed when I tried to start my truck this > morning is absence of the hum I hear when I engage the ignition switch.  I > assume this hum is the fuel pump engaging.

Your assumption is reasonable, but only up to the point where you start pulling parts off and replacing them.  Before you get to that point, you need to actually troubleshoot the problem.  The pump itself may be fine, but there may be a failed relay, a broken wire, or some other component in the circuit that powers/controls the pump that is causing it to not run. Before I would dig into the fuel tank to replace the pump, I would measure the voltage going into the pump to make sure 12V is there.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know where the fuel pump is on a 1996 Explorer? >I am assuming that this is why my truck refused to start this morning. >The only thing different I noticed when I tried to start my truck this >morning is absence of the hum I hear when I engage the ignition switch.  I >assume this hum is the fuel pump engaging. > Your assumption is reasonable, but only up to the point where you start > pulling parts off and replacing them.  Before you get to that point, you > need to actually troubleshoot the problem.  The pump itself may be fine, > but there may be a failed relay, a broken wire, or some other component in > the circuit that powers/controls the pump that is causing it to not run. > Before I would dig into the fuel tank to replace the pump, I would > measure the voltage going into the pump to make sure 12V is there.

In addition to Mark’s information… Is it possible someone bumped, jarred, or collided with your vehicle causing the fuel pump safety shut-off switch to activate?  Is your "Fuel Reset" indicator light illuminated on your instrument panel?  If so, try reseting the switch located in the jack compartment. Good luck, Steven

Response:

Does anyone know where the fuel pump is on a 1996 Explorer? I am assuming that this is why my truck refused to start this morning. The only thing different I noticed when I tried to start my truck this morning is absence of the hum I hear when I engage the ignition switch.  I assume this hum is the fuel pump engaging.

Response:

Hello – looking at getting a fuel pump replaced on a 1996 Eddie Bauer V8 Explorer – just curious what amount of labor time is fair on it… how long it takes, etc – what does it cost?

Response:

about 2 hours, the part was around fifty and whatever labor is.

Response: