Question:

> >can I buy a >harness that will connect to the changer and provide a 1/8" stereo >connector that I can connect to? > http://peripheralelectronics.com/2002/aux_in.asp > http://autosoundgear.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&grp=57

Thanks, I got one through PIE electronics: http://www.pie.net/frdn_aux_inst.htm Walter

Response:

>I got one through PIE electronics: >http://www.pie.net/frdn_aux_inst.htm >Walter

Which stereo do you have the 6-disc or the cd-cassette?

Response:

Hi, I am a new Explorer owner, and am trying to hook up the audio output from a portable DVD player to my factory radio.  I would like to use the CD changer input, but don’t know the pinout. Does anyone know the CD changer pinout, or even better, can I buy a harness that will connect to the changer and provide a 1/8" stereo connector that I can connect to? Thanks in advance, Walter —

Response:

>can I buy a >harness that will connect to the changer and provide a 1/8" stereo >connector that I can connect to?

http://peripheralelectronics.com/2002/aux_in.asp http://autosoundgear.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&grp=57

Response:

Question:

This is my first time posting, and I’m hoping for some help? I have a 97 Explorer Sport with apparently serious emmisions issues… It failed it’s emmissons tests, I was told because of the check engine light. I’ve had it about 3 years, it’s got 85,000 miles on it but runs great for the most part. The mechanic today told me that the codes (P0442, P0300 (tune up?), P0174) were serious, that I was looking at at least $1K to try to fix em. If those repairs didn’t solve the issue it would cost much more. He also says that the annoying rattle the engine’s been making is serious, and the only way to fix is to replace engine. Basically he told me that if it were his truck he wouldn’t bother. I love my truck, it runs fine, and I can’t give up on it! I have an appointment Fri to get a second opinion, but was wondering if anyone has had any similar codes or experiences? Thanks in advance! Sarah

Response:

Difficult to tell at this distance…. especially without knowing a little more about the truck, it’s condition and some doctor/patient kind of stuff. Annoying rattles should be addressed as soon as they appear…. they wont go away and they usually get worse financially. If this is the SOHC 4.0L, check to see if the cam tensioner updates have been done (send me your VIN off list and I can run OASIS as a starting point). Your car will likely be past the warranty extension – be aware that this job will go faster, be cheaper and have less headaches if the shop has the special tools. P0442…. is a small leak in the evaporative emissions control system. A faulty gas cap is the likeliest suspect – if that doesn’t fix it, your shop will need a smoke machine to diagnose the problem in a timely and economical manner. P0300…. indicates a random misfire – a tune up may cure this. P0174 indicates that the left cylinder bank is running lean….. vacuum leak, ignition troubles… there are several things that can cause this code. Be aware that P0300 might be a result of P0174 OR P0174 might be a result of P0300. Conditions to cause either one of these codes can be very similar. I would certainly caution against going back to the original mechanic – he sounds like a bit of a cretin. Choose your mechanic wisely, much like you would choose a doctor. Poor mechanics may bid a job lower but wind up costong more in the end. Good techs will be as honest as they can about what they are doing and what they need to charge. HTH

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This is my first time posting, and I’m hoping for some help? I have a 97 > Explorer Sport with apparently serious emmisions issues… It failed it’s > emmissons tests, I was told because of the check engine light. I’ve had it > about 3 years, it’s got 85,000 miles on it but runs great for the most > part. > The mechanic today told me that the codes (P0442, P0300 (tune up?), P0174) > were serious, that I was looking at at least $1K to try to fix em. If those > repairs didn’t solve the issue it would cost much more. He also says that > the annoying rattle the engine’s been making is serious, and the only way > to fix is to replace engine. Basically he told me that if it were his > truck he wouldn’t bother. > I love my truck, it runs fine, and I can’t give up on it! I have an > appointment Fri to get a second opinion, but was wondering if anyone has > had any similar codes or experiences? > Thanks in advance! > Sarah

Response:

Hi Jim, Thanks so much for your post, I’d tried to send you my VIN but the email came back undeliverable. Anyway – you were absolutely dead-on right. I took it for a second opinion and it was the camshaft chain tensioner. They also replaced the lower intake manifold gasket, and the gas cap. All fixed for less than half of what the 1st mechanic had quoted. I’m going to drive it for a while before I take it back to be retested, make sure that engine light stays off, but you were so right I just wanted to let you know. Thanks again! Sarah PS – I don’t suppose you know anything about the 4×4 lights blinking? The 4wd works fine, I’ve had two different mechanics tell me it’s no big deal as long as it works, but why the blinking??

Response:

Question:

I’m trying to help my brother put new plugs and wires in his 1992 Explorer XLT, and for the life of me I cant find the manual or any info on the net on how much to gap the new spark plugs. If anyone can help me with this it will be much appreciated

Response:

On my 1993 truck, there is a white placard next to the hood latch (open the hood).  It lists the plug type and gap and also shows the routing for the serpentine belt.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to help my brother put new plugs and wires in his 1992 Explorer > XLT, and for the life of me I cant find the manual or any info on the net > on how much to gap the new spark plugs. If anyone can help me with this it > will be much appreciated

Response:

> > I’m trying to help my brother put new plugs and wires in his 1992 Explorer > XLT, and for the life of me I cant find the manual or any info on the net > on how much to gap the new spark plugs. If anyone can help me with this it > will be much appreciated > On my 1993 truck, there is a white placard next to the hood latch (open the > hood).  It lists the plug type and gap and also shows the routing for the > serpentine belt.

I can’t remember the last time I bought a plug that wasn’t pre-gapped correctly.  The days when you were expected to set the gap differently from the gap the plug was designed for are gone for the most part. If all the plugs are gapped the same, you can be pretty sure they are already at the correct gap. YMMV.

Response:

Well…. dont I feel like a complete idiot. Thank you very much. its right there when I opened the hood. Im going to go hang my head in shame and take of those plugs. Thanks again

Response:

Don’t feel too bad.  I’ve had two Explorers for years and last week I spend half an hour trying to find the spark plug info in my Hayne’s manual.  Then I opened the hood. This is what happens when you use platinum plugs and it may be years before they get changed.

Response:

I think it’s .050"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to help my brother put new plugs and wires in his 1992 Explorer > XLT, and for the life of me I cant find the manual or any info on the net > on how much to gap the new spark plugs. If anyone can help me with this it > will be much appreciated

Response:

the gap is .060 And no, they do not come pre-gapped

Response:

Question:

Does anyone know if there is an easy way to change the left low-beam bulb on a 2002 Explorer? The access from behind is blocked by the battery. Thanks in advance

Response:

> Does anyone know if there is an easy way to change the left low-beam bulb on > a 2002 Explorer? The access from behind is blocked by the battery. > Thanks in advance

Take out the battery?

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There’s two black "tabs" to grab on the top rear of the assembly with your hand-I use pliers- and pull both straight up and the whole hl assembly will release and fall out. I believe it shows this in the owners manual. wth

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know if there is an easy way to change the left low-beam bulb > on a 2002 Explorer? The access from behind is blocked by the battery. > Thanks in advance

Response:

>> Does anyone know if there is an easy way to change the left low-beam bulb >on > a 2002 Explorer?

There are two clips that hold the unit in place. They are at the top of the headlight assembly. You just pull up on them and it releases the assembly. Your owner’s manual will show  you how. It’s very easy. Takes about 10 seconds. DO NOT touch the glass part of the bulb you are installing. oils from your skin can make the bulb burn out prematurely. Clean the bulb with alcohol if you accidently touch the glass part. Mark McCoy<br> McCoy’s Market Bumpus Mills, Tennessee<br> http://www.mccoysmarket.com

Response:

    You beat me to it, doggonit.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know if there is an easy way to change the left low-beam bulb > on a 2002 Explorer? The access from behind is blocked by the battery. > Thanks in advance > Take out the battery?

Response:

Question:

Hello everyone, Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of the rims! I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be nice. Thanks for the advice. Chris

Response:

31×10.50s will fit nicely. SMC

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes > would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. > I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of > the rims! > I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be > nice. > Thanks for the advice. > Chris

Response:

I believe the rims for the limited in were only 15" x 6.5".

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes > would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. > I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of > the rims! > I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be > nice. > Thanks for the advice. > Chris

Response:

Question:

Hello everyone, Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of the rims! I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be nice. Thanks for the advice. Chris

Response:

31×10.50s will fit nicely. SMC

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes > would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. > I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of > the rims! > I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be > nice. > Thanks for the advice. > Chris

Response:

I believe the rims for the limited in were only 15" x 6.5".

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Just wondering if someone can provide recommendations on what tire sizes > would fit on the stock 1994 Explorer (limited) rims. > I would actually appreciate it if someone can tell me the correct width of > the rims! > I’m not looking to put super-swampers on…but something wider would be > nice. > Thanks for the advice. > Chris

Response:

Question:

4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

Just a thought – will it start if you push on the gas pedal?  If so, the idle air control valve is the problem. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, >when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it >won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard >that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional >opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the >truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of >definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

This problem was talked here previously. The solution is to change the fuel pump relay. When it get hot it won’t start. You can take a look in previous post in the forum about this issue. Hope this will work for you. Regards Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature. Then, > when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it > won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard > that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional > opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the > truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of > definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

> 4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, > when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it > won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard > that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional > opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the > truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of > definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Tough call without some diagnosis. With the radio off, turn the key "on" & listen for the fuel pump hum. It should run 2-3 seconds & shut off. You may want to try swapping the fuel pump & heater motor relays in the under hood relay box. Worst case is you have no heater fan…. Pull a plug wire & check for spark while someone turns the key to "start". No spark means you need to check further. One possible problem is a bad crankshaft position sensor that comes open when it heat soaks from a shut-down engine. Again, without diagnostics it a shot in the dark.

Response:

Thanks for the responses.  It was the relay switch!!!!! When I tapped the switch, the fuel pump would kick on.  Now that it’s replaced it works fine.  Thanks a lot!

Response:

Question:

4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

Just a thought – will it start if you push on the gas pedal?  If so, the idle air control valve is the problem. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, >when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it >won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard >that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional >opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the >truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of >definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

This problem was talked here previously. The solution is to change the fuel pump relay. When it get hot it won’t start. You can take a look in previous post in the forum about this issue. Hope this will work for you. Regards Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature. Then, > when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it > won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard > that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional > opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the > truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of > definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Response:

> 4.0 V6   This happens after I drive it and get it up to temperature.  Then, > when I shut the engine off and try to start it about 5 min. later, it > won’t.  I’ve replaced the Egnition Coil, Plugs and Plug Wires.  I’ve heard > that maybe the fuel pump needs to be replaced but it wasn’t a professional > opinion. I don’t want to spend the money and time trying to repair the > truck again on something that may not be the problem. I need some kind of > definite answer oon what is wrong.  Help PLEASE!!

Tough call without some diagnosis. With the radio off, turn the key "on" & listen for the fuel pump hum. It should run 2-3 seconds & shut off. You may want to try swapping the fuel pump & heater motor relays in the under hood relay box. Worst case is you have no heater fan…. Pull a plug wire & check for spark while someone turns the key to "start". No spark means you need to check further. One possible problem is a bad crankshaft position sensor that comes open when it heat soaks from a shut-down engine. Again, without diagnostics it a shot in the dark.

Response:

Thanks for the responses.  It was the relay switch!!!!! When I tapped the switch, the fuel pump would kick on.  Now that it’s replaced it works fine.  Thanks a lot!

Response:

Question:

Hi, I have a 1996 Explorer AWD V-8, and the outside temp gauge is starting to give erratic readings this summer.  Sometimes it reads ICE and -40

Question:

I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with 120K miles, and the front wheel bearings seem to be a recurring problem.  Is this normal? … for an Explorer?? Whenever the dealer gets the vehicle, either the bearings need to be repacked or replaced.  At 100K miles, the front bearings were replaced, and now the vehicle is really noisy when over 40 mph… I do mostly highway driving and its gets annoying.  I suspected worn tires, but the passenger feels that the noise is only on the driver side.  Any comment?  All suggestions sincerely appreciated.

Response:

Have you checked your front gearbox fluid level or the Transmission level.  I had a whine from my transmission when the fluid was low for some unknown problem – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with 120K miles, and the front wheel bearings >seem to be a recurring problem.  Is this normal? … for an Explorer?? >Whenever the dealer gets the vehicle, either the bearings need to be >repacked or replaced.  At 100K miles, the front bearings were replaced, and >now the vehicle is really noisy when over 40 mph… I do mostly highway >driving and its gets annoying.  I suspected worn tires, but the passenger >feels that the noise is only on the driver side.  Any comment?  All >suggestions sincerely appreciated.

Response: