Question:

Hello I need the wiring diagram for a 1996 explorer send me to my mail or show me url thanks

Response:

I don’t know of any publicly available circuit diagrams on line but you might try http://www.alldata.com/index.html . There are a lot of pages to the wiring diagrams so I would think that anyone with the space to host them is going to expect some sort of recompense. You can purchase the factory authorized manuals from http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?Style=&mscsid=ATRMBWHGNX5D9L… (try http://tinyurl.com/2qh99 if that got scewed up in your reader) – these would contain the exact same info we use at the dealership. If you have a specific problem, I can try to help you but the matrial I have at my disposal is copyrighted and, as such, I can’t copy or distribute it. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello > I need the wiring diagram for a 1996 explorer > send me to my mail or show me url > thanks

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Question:

I removed my factory amp connected metra harness to route speaker wire to aftermarket radio ran wires from rear amp location to under rear seat….now where is best route to radio? through   floor along door?  

Response:

It would sure help to know the year – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I removed my factory amp connected metra harness to route speaker wire to >aftermarket radio ran wires from rear amp location to under rear >seat….now where is best route to radio? through   floor along door?  

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1998 explorer xlt I removed my factory amp connected metra harness to route speaker wire to – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->aftermarket radio ran wires from rear amp location to under rear >seat….now where is best route to radio? through   floor along door?  

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Question:

I just bought a 2000 Explorer that has two Firestone tires which are probably not original. The car has 75k miles and the tires look like they have about 20k miles on them.  I’ve been google searching for a half hour and still cannot find an actual LIST OF THE TIRES RECALLED. If anyone has a DIRECT LINK I would appreciate it. No more wild goose chases. Thanks Joe

Response:

Hmm.. what did you put in the search terms?  Maytag Washer :p just kidding.. I found this on the first pageof Google results http://4wheeldrive.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2… nsumerreports.org%2Fmain%2Fdetail.jsp%3FCONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id%3D21231%26FOLDE R %3C%3Efolder_id%3D21135%26bmUID%3D993086770090 I think all the free tire campaigns have ended though.  But you could still find out if the ones that are on your vehicle were involved..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just bought a 2000 Explorer that has two Firestone tires which are > probably not original. The car has 75k miles and the tires look like > they have about 20k miles on them.  I’ve been google searching for a > half hour and still cannot find an actual LIST OF THE TIRES RECALLED. > If anyone has a DIRECT LINK I would appreciate it. No more wild goose > chases. > Thanks > Joe

Response:

http://www.bridgestoneamericas.com/news/mediacenter/recall_archives/h… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I just bought a 2000 Explorer that has two Firestone tires which are > probably not original. The car has 75k miles and the tires look like > they have about 20k miles on them.  I’ve been google searching for a > half hour and still cannot find an actual LIST OF THE TIRES RECALLED. > If anyone has a DIRECT LINK I would appreciate it. No more wild goose > chases. > Thanks > Joe

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Question:

I just came back from an Mobil station where they told me that they saw my manifold leaking coolant when they were changing my oil.  When put under pressure, there was a pretty substantial leak of coolant.  I didn’t see it because I had dropped the car off and went out of town. The Explorer was using a lot of oil.  Usually a quart every 500 to 600 miles.  No oil on the ground and no smoking.  Other than that, it was runing great.  At my last oil change, an Exxon mechanic told me to use 5W-30 and there was a small oil leak but it wasn’t big enough to explain the oil usage. So now my manifold gasket is being replaced.  They showed me the wear on the gasket.  But I’m worried this would have never happened if I hadn’t told them to tighten the manifold intake bolts.  I’m sick about spending $450 for this uneeded job. Can someone tell me if this repair sounds legitimate? Thanks for your help.   Fool in Houston!

Response:

Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I have changed several for coolant leaks. Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just came back from an Mobil station

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. > Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason > for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume > that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" > repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor > because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but > did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I > have changed several for coolant leaks. > Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" > until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth > did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. > Jim Warman > I just came back from an Mobil station

Jim, thanks for the information.  I appreciate it.  I have 135,000 miles on the Explorer.  As you can tell, I made several errors dealing with this situation.  However, your comments have made me feel better about having to spend $450. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Response:

No problem David….. mine let go about the 95,000 mile mark but wasn’t accompanied by any loss of coolant. Mine had developed a healthy thirst for oil and had fouled off #5 spark plug. What really works well for me is being able to take it into work and use my hoist and the air compressor <BSEG>. I’ll be in Calgary next week at the Days Inn if anyone wants to give my sh*t or have a brewski…. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. > Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason > for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume > that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" > repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor > because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but > did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I > have changed several for coolant leaks. > Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" > until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth > did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. > Jim Warman > > I just came back from an Mobil station > Jim, thanks for the information.  I appreciate it.  I have 135,000 > miles on the Explorer.  As you can tell, I made several errors dealing > with this situation.  However, your comments have made me feel better > about having to spend $450. > Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Response:

Question:

I just came back from an Mobil station where they told me that they saw my manifold leaking coolant when they were changing my oil.  When put under pressure, there was a pretty substantial leak of coolant.  I didn’t see it because I had dropped the car off and went out of town. The Explorer was using a lot of oil.  Usually a quart every 500 to 600 miles.  No oil on the ground and no smoking.  Other than that, it was runing great.  At my last oil change, an Exxon mechanic told me to use 5W-30 and there was a small oil leak but it wasn’t big enough to explain the oil usage. So now my manifold gasket is being replaced.  They showed me the wear on the gasket.  But I’m worried this would have never happened if I hadn’t told them to tighten the manifold intake bolts.  I’m sick about spending $450 for this uneeded job. Can someone tell me if this repair sounds legitimate? Thanks for your help.   Fool in Houston!

Response:

Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I have changed several for coolant leaks. Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just came back from an Mobil station

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. > Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason > for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume > that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" > repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor > because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but > did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I > have changed several for coolant leaks. > Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" > until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth > did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. > Jim Warman > I just came back from an Mobil station

Jim, thanks for the information.  I appreciate it.  I have 135,000 miles on the Explorer.  As you can tell, I made several errors dealing with this situation.  However, your comments have made me feel better about having to spend $450. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Response:

No problem David….. mine let go about the 95,000 mile mark but wasn’t accompanied by any loss of coolant. Mine had developed a healthy thirst for oil and had fouled off #5 spark plug. What really works well for me is being able to take it into work and use my hoist and the air compressor <BSEG>. I’ll be in Calgary next week at the Days Inn if anyone wants to give my sh*t or have a brewski…. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Mileage might help one to form an accurate opinion…. > Intake gasket leaks are common on these motors and can even be the reason > for high oil consumption. Without seeing the car myself, I can still assume > that this repair is more than likely legit…. What would be an "unneeded" > repair would be to let the problem ride and have to replace the motor > because of it. If it makes you feel any better, mine didn’t leak coolant but > did use oil at an alarming rate before I changed the lower intake gasket. I > have changed several for coolant leaks. > Even if you had gone out of town, you still had the option of saying "No" > until either you saw for yourself (if you don’t trust the shop, why on earth > did you go there?) or had the opportunity for a second opinion. > Jim Warman > > I just came back from an Mobil station > Jim, thanks for the information.  I appreciate it.  I have 135,000 > miles on the Explorer.  As you can tell, I made several errors dealing > with this situation.  However, your comments have made me feel better > about having to spend $450. > Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Response:

Question:

See other posts in reference to 2002 Explorer problems. I curious to know if you have a rear end "whine" and a clunking noises like myself and others. I don’t know about he AC filter, sorry. Thanks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, >  I’m the "new" owner of a 2002 Explorer Eddie Bauer 4×4 with the 4.6 V8. > It’s a great truck and we’re happy with it so far. A few things will need > attention before the warranty expires but I’m keeping my fingers crossed. > I’m a die-hard Honda man and NOT getting a Honda Pilot was a tough decision. > Anyway, I have a question…..is there a pollen filter available for this > model? If not, is there a way I could possibly retrofit one? > Thanks! > — > Best Regards, > Jim

Response:

Hi,  I’m the "new" owner of a 2002 Explorer Eddie Bauer 4×4 with the 4.6 V8. It’s a great truck and we’re happy with it so far. A few things will need attention before the warranty expires but I’m keeping my fingers crossed. I’m a die-hard Honda man and NOT getting a Honda Pilot was a tough decision. Anyway, I have a question…..is there a pollen filter available for this model? If not, is there a way I could possibly retrofit one? Thanks! — Best Regards, Jim

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Question:

1996 Explorer Does anybody have any info/tips on R&R of the cruise control switches located on the steering wheel? Anything to look out for, such as air bag, etc? thanks

Response:

It’s easy to remove the Cruise control switches. 1st disconnect the battery to prevent the airbags from accidently deploying. Next the airbag is bolted to the steering wheel by two 8mm bolt on either side of the wheel. You’ll access the bolt from under the steering wheel. Unbolt both bolts and move the airbag casing out of the way. You’ll notice the Cruise Control switches are SCREWED into the steering wheel by two screws. Unscrew the switches, disconnect the electrical connections and pronto.. U R finish. Replace the switch and as they say, installing is the opposite of removing.. TIME.. 5 mins TOPS!!! GOODLUCK… PS.. get a switch from the Junkyard….Sorry.. SALVAGE Yard!!!  :-)

Response:

Question:

We have a 2002 Explorer with the same deal.  The dealer said it was a bad seatbelt tension spring.  That spring, however, has been on order for 4 and a half months!  Good luck!

Response:

Since the SRS light is flashing, the SRS system is disabled and *should* not deploy (unfortunately this doesn’t cover any possibility of ‘unintentional deployment) – I’m  not sure what the code means since I only have documentation and tools for 5 digit alpha-numeric codes. Something of this nature is better left to someone with appropriate training and equipment. HTH. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1999 Explorer air bag light on 3 flashes a stop then to 7 light > ups then solid on from that time on, after restarting the car. I looked > around and did not find that much regarding this error light. Will it not > go off it something occurs? Anybody that can respond will be greatly > appreciate and it will return it to them, in time. Thanks again. Mark E.

Response:

I have a 1999 Explorer air bag light on 3 flashes a stop then to 7 light ups then solid on from that time on, after restarting the car. I looked around and did not find that much regarding this error light. Will it not go off it something occurs? Anybody that can respond will be greatly appreciate and it will return it to them, in time. Thanks again. Mark E.

Response:

Question:

>Glad you got the info.  I was about to TYPE the section.  What did we ever >do before pdf’s? >Dave

I’m still trying to figure out how civilization survived for over 5,000 years without plastic garbage bags. 8^)

Response:

Glad you got the info.  I was about to TYPE the section.  What did we ever do before pdf’s? Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks Krusty.  I also took Art’s advice and registered at > www.Ford.com so I have access to the manual in .PDF format. > I appreciate the help! > Glenn

Response:

You can register your car on the Ford Website (Owner connection) and then you can download a manual in PDF format. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Yeah – it is in the owner’s manual.  Do you have one? >Dave > Unfortunately, no.  I have purchased one on eBay and am awaiting its > arrival. > Glenn

Response:

Thanks Krusty.  I also took Art’s advice and registered at www.Ford.com so I have access to the manual in .PDF format. I appreciate the help! Glenn

Response:

Try this.  I have the whole manual in digital format (PDF) but it is to big to send here.  If you want get me a good email and I can email it to you its about 4 meg or so in size.  Hope this helped.   Using the Keyless Entry System (If equipped) If your vehicle has the keyless entry system, you can lock or unlock the vehicle doors without using a key. The buttons for the system are near the outside door handle on the driver’s side. See also Remote Entry System which follows this description. Keyless entry buttons When you bought your vehicle, you were given a computer code that operates the system for your vehicle. For your convenience, we have duplicated this code in two places. The code is: on your owner’s wallet card found in the glove compartment and taped to the computer module (This is located in the rear compartment area where your rear window washer tank is located.  you will have to look way inside usually a 5 digit code in on the module) When you use this entry system, the illuminated entry system turns on the interior lights for 25 seconds and the buttons on the keypad light up for 5 seconds. Do not push the buttons with a key, ballpoint pen, pencil or any other hard object. These objects could damage the buttons. Programming your own entry code You can program a personal code to unlock your vehicle with the keypad. This code does not replace the permanent code that the dealership gave you. Use your personal code in the same manner as you would your original code. To program your own code: 1. Select five digits for your personal code. 2. Enter the permanent code that the dealership gave you. 3. Within five seconds, press 1/2. 4. Within five seconds of pressing 1/2, enter your personal code, pressing each digit within five seconds of the previous digit. The keyless entry system registers this second code. To open your vehicle, you can now use either code. The module remembers only one personal code at a time. Entering a second personal code will erase the first, replacing it with the new second one. To erase your personal code: 1. Enter the original permanent code. 2. Press 1/2 within five seconds of Step 1. 3. Wait six seconds. The keyless entry system automatically erases your personal code. The system will now only respond to the permanent code. Do not set a code that presents the numbers in sequential order, such as 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/0. Studies show that people who idly press the buttons usually press a sequential pattern. Also, do not select a code that uses the same button five times. Thieves can easily figure out these types of codes. 158 Unlocking  the doors with the keyless entry system You must unlock the driver’s door before you unlock any of the other doors. If you let more than five seconds pass between pressing numbers, the system shuts down, and you have to enter the code again. The system has shut down if the keypad light is out. If the keyless entry system does not work properly, use the key or transmitter(s) to lock and unlock the doors. 1. To unlock the driver’s door, enter the factory code or your personal code. All codes have five numbers. After you press the fifth number, the driver’s door unlocks. 2. To unlock the passenger’s door(s), press the 3/4 button within five seconds of unlocking the driver’s door or re-enter the code to open the driver’s door, then press 3/4. Locking the doors with the keyless entry system Along with unlocking your doors, you can use the keyless entry system to lock the doors. You can also use the Autolock feature to automatically lock the doors after you get in the vehicle. To lock all of the doors, press 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time. It is not necessary to first enter the keypad code. This will arm your factory installed anti-theft system, if so equipped. Arming,  disarming and resetting your anti-theft system (If equipped) from the keyless entry pad If your vehicle is equipped with the optional factory installed anti-theft system, the keyless entry system will arm it when you use the 7/8 and 9/0 keys to lock the doors, and will disarm or reset a triggered anti-theft alarm when you enter in the five digit code to unlock the driver’s door. NOTE: Doors and the liftgate must be fully closed for the anti-theft system to arm. Refer to the Anti-Theft System section in this chapter for more details. — JAMES AGUILAR >Yeah – it is in the owner’s manual.  Do you have one? >Dave

Unfortunately, no.  I have purchased one on eBay and am awaiting its arrival. Glenn

Response:

Yeah – it is in the owner’s manual.  Do you have one? Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->You can change the code  to a number of your choosing once you find the >factory code. > I’d like to change the code to a personal number, and I assume there > are additional codes that operate different functions.  Does anyone > have a source for these codes? > I learned by accident that pressing the last two numbers on the pad at > the same time will lock the vehicle.  Fortunately I had the windows > down. > Glenn

Response:

>Yeah – it is in the owner’s manual.  Do you have one? >Dave

Unfortunately, no.  I have purchased one on eBay and am awaiting its arrival. Glenn

Response:

>You can change the code  to a number of your choosing once you find the >factory code.

I’d like to change the code to a personal number, and I assume there are additional codes that operate different functions.  Does anyone have a source for these codes? I learned by accident that pressing the last two numbers on the pad at the same time will lock the vehicle.  Fortunately I had the windows down. Glenn

Response:

You can change the code  to a number of your choosing once you find the factory code.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1998 explorer I bought used. The manual says the number sequence to > the keypad is on the computer…now if I knew where the computer was. Any > ideas?

Response:

I have a 1998 explorer I bought used. The manual says the number sequence to the keypad is on the computer…now if I knew where the computer was. Any ideas?

Response:

The control for the remote locks is located on the driver’s side, over the rear wheel well and can be see from the access panel for the jack. At least on my ‘97…… Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1998 explorer I bought used. The manual says the number sequence to > the keypad is on the computer…now if I knew where the computer was. Any > ideas?

Response:

Open the panel in the back where the jack is housed.  Right up on top of the wheel well you’ll see a box with a sticker on it.  You may have to use a flashlight and pull the panel away from the box to see it (at least I did on mine). The 5 digit number printed on that sticker is your door lock code. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 1998 explorer I bought used. The manual says the number sequence to > the keypad is on the computer…now if I knew where the computer was. Any > ideas?

Response:

Question:

> I jsut purchased a 1998 Explorer. My neighbor also has a 1998 Explorer. It > seems that his key fob also activates and deactivates my vehicle. Is there > any way to reprogram my vehicles settings so they don’t match his?

Hi, the following information is quoted from an earlier post by Billy, BChung4457.  We  both have 1997 Explorers, but to my knowledge 1998 is no different. Good luck, Joe "1.  Gather all your remotes because the RKE unit will assign a brand new code to all the remotes.   2.  Be sure all the doors and liftgate/glass are closed. 3.  Insert your key in the ignition and turn the key from "Off" to "On" position 5 times ending at the "On" position without starting the engine. 4.  Once you’ve done there, the door locks should lock then unlock as a confirmation telling you that you’re in the programming mode. 5.  Click any button on the remote.  Once you’ve done that, the door locks will lock then unlock telling you that the remote has been programed 6.  If you have more remotes repeat step 5.  You can program up to 4 remotes. 7.  Turn off the ignition and try the remotes out."

Response:

I jsut purchased a 1998 Explorer. My neighbor also has a 1998 Explorer. It seems that his key fob also activates and deactivates my vehicle. Is there any way to reprogram my vehicles settings so they don’t match his?

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